rtropp

Do the aligning piece need to be unscrewed and move to the next position to continue framing for the entire hull?
Thanks,
Richard

Do the aligning piece need to be unscrewed and move to the next position to continue framing for the entire hull?
Thanks,
Richard

Do the aligning piece need to be unscrewed and move to the next position to continue framing for the entire hull?
Thanks,
Richard

Another photos 
 

 

 

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

Hi Gerhard,
 
I do it again!

 

 

Hi Carl,

thank you for your interest and kind words.
All other thanks for the LIKES.

Here some news:

 

Hello: I received the Plans for the Cutter Cheerful. I decided to cut the bulkheads myself rather than getting the kit

continuing
 
 

hello all again;...As an old Dog, I am figuring how to send Pictures from my 'Smart Phone'...smarter than me...another picture. at this point about 25 hours so far.

I think... (operative word here is: think) that I got it.  Not as perfect I would like but I've pushed my limits to the extreme.  All three windows are in on the starboard side.  I might (yeah.. sure... he says to himself... I know I will) re-visit these and see if I can make them better after doing the starboard side.  All in all for a first effort at scratching  quarter galleries with minimal plans... I'll give myself a B+.
 
A bit of cleanup in the shop, and I'll turn this around to the other side.  The next side ought to be a bit faster as I won't be re-cutting windows and reworking everything.  That part has been done. <crosses fingers>
 
I'm feeling like if I can do these galleries... I'm ready for anything.  Even carving.
 

 

Hull has been split into three parts by cutting through the keel and rising wood where the biggest gaps were.
Isopropyl is now being applied to remove the entire old keel from the sections, it's length had changed by 1/8", also some frame thicknesses were checked and only the midships area shows shrinking across the grain, so I'm hoping to save the fore and aft sections.
 
Ben

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 163 – Bower Anchors 3
 
In the last part the fabrication of what will be the port bower anchor was completed.  That anchor has still to be blackened and mounted.  Work on the starboard anchor went on concurrently and is described in this part.  In the first picture the shaft and arms of that second anchor have been soldered and it has been set up to solder some short lengths of telescoping square tube that will be used to shape the boss for the wood stock.
 

 
The configuration is different from the first iron bar stock anchor.  In the next picture shaping of the fully soldered anchor has just begun.
 

 
On the first anchor the shackle bolt was soldered in place on the finished anchor.  On this anchor the wooden stock must be installed before the shackle so the shackle bolt was threaded into the shackle to avoid soldering with the wood stock in place.  The threaded rod and shackle are shown below.
 

 
The still unshaped anchor is also shown in this picture.  The shackle threads were made with a jeweler’s tap and die. 
 
The next step was to make the wooden stock.  In the next picture one of the two halves is being mortised to fit over the square anchor shaft.
 

 
Before final shaping of the wooden stock, the iron bands were made.  This may appear backward in sequence but I think it is easier to do the final fitting of the bands by light sanding/filing of the wood stock, rather than to precisely size the bands. 
 
To accurately shape the bands a wood form was made to match the anchor stock shape.  This was marked for band location and copper strips were bent around the form at each location.  In the next picture a razor blade is being tapped with a hammer at an angle to cut the overlapped band to precisely size it and form the joint for soldering.
 

 
The next picture shows the band joint (and the cut damage to the wood form).  It was then removed from the wood, soldered, replaced on the wood form and cleaned up with files and abrasive sticks.
 

 
Using the wood form for fitting, clean-up and polishing avoids damage to the actual stock and also keeps it clean of metal dust.  In the next picture the six bands have been fitted.
 

 
Fitting of the bands required light filing sanding of the wooden stock to the point where each band would fit tightly at its final location.  In the above picture the polished bands have been pressed into place, and are ready for blackening.  In the last picture all of the iron parts have been blackened and the anchor is ready for assembly.
 

 
All of the metal parts were pickled in heated white vinegar, polished, soaked in TIVA cleaning solution, and rinsed before treatment.  The copper bands on the stock were brushed liberally with liver of sulfur solution.  When black, the assembly was rinsed in clean water.  The brass anchor and shackle parts were dipped in diluted Birch-Casey brass black, brushed until black, rinsed, buffed with Q-tips, and allowed to dry.
 
The tight fit of the bands on the stock and the stock on the shaft may be sufficient without glue.  I may use a tiny drop of CA on the underside of each band and on the anchor shaft just to be safe.  The anchor shackle will be attached to a soldered chain shackle so will be installed later when those parts are made.
 
Ed

I have completed rigging the guns. I purposefully made the various coils inconsistent and a bit sloppy. Much of the crew of the Eagle had very limited ship experience. Since the guns are run out, the lanyards should not be neatly bound up, or in flemish coils. So this is what I ended up with. These would also have been unhooked before firing (I think) but having them laying on the deck really would have looked terrible. I will still play with the shape of the breeching lines, but this is close.
 
Now it is on to the masting. I just received my new rotary table for the Milling machine. I should be able to mill the masts in a horizontal position. However these are still in the box, so I will need to play with them a bit.

thanks for the rope coil tip
 
Richard

4th picture  a tool to turn ropes coils with a coil ejector

So back to my Pegasus build, some major issues stemming from my move have badly affected the hull, I have had obvious and pretty severe distortions in the keel and framing in the midships area, large gaps between frames and twisting have occurred.
The hull is stable now due to my adding humidity control of the workshop but the damage has been done.
Now what to do about it??
 
1. Start all over again.
2. A la Mark and his Licorne, save what I can and rebuild what I cannot.
 
I'm leaning towards no2, remove as many frames as can be saved, and make a new keel for them to be fixed to.
 
I will update when I have decided which way I'm going to go.
 
Ben

I use the DB250 and have found a way to support long pieces that works for me.
I remove all the components on the tail stock.  The dowel slips through the head stock and then through the tail stock. I move the tail stock as close to the head stock as necessary to provide rigid support for the dowel.
At first i used a piece of foam around the dowel in the tail stock to keep it from vibrating.  That worked ok but the foam would eventually work its way out requiring me to stop work to re set it.  Next I tried a piece of dowel that would fit securely in the tail piece. I drilled a hole through the center of the jig/dowel just a bit larger than the work piece (mast).  I fit the jig dowel into the tail stock and fixed it with the locking screw provided.  This worked well.  I could slide the tail stock to the optimum distance to provide a rigid work piece (no sag or vibrating).  At first I worried that their might be burning from the friction of wood spinning against wood but that never happened.  If it did I would remake the jig from a smooth plastic. this jig is part of my lathe tool box and has been reused multiple times.
 
Also, the piece of dowel that sticks out of the feed end of the head stock can whip around if not supported.  A piece of foam there kept it steady. I show all of this in my Syren build where I was working on belaying pins.
 
Richard.

I use the DB250 and have found a way to support long pieces that works for me.
I remove all the components on the tail stock.  The dowel slips through the head stock and then through the tail stock. I move the tail stock as close to the head stock as necessary to provide rigid support for the dowel.
At first i used a piece of foam around the dowel in the tail stock to keep it from vibrating.  That worked ok but the foam would eventually work its way out requiring me to stop work to re set it.  Next I tried a piece of dowel that would fit securely in the tail piece. I drilled a hole through the center of the jig/dowel just a bit larger than the work piece (mast).  I fit the jig dowel into the tail stock and fixed it with the locking screw provided.  This worked well.  I could slide the tail stock to the optimum distance to provide a rigid work piece (no sag or vibrating).  At first I worried that their might be burning from the friction of wood spinning against wood but that never happened.  If it did I would remake the jig from a smooth plastic. this jig is part of my lathe tool box and has been reused multiple times.
 
Also, the piece of dowel that sticks out of the feed end of the head stock can whip around if not supported.  A piece of foam there kept it steady. I show all of this in my Syren build where I was working on belaying pins.
 
Richard.

I use the DB250 and have found a way to support long pieces that works for me.
I remove all the components on the tail stock.  The dowel slips through the head stock and then through the tail stock. I move the tail stock as close to the head stock as necessary to provide rigid support for the dowel.
At first i used a piece of foam around the dowel in the tail stock to keep it from vibrating.  That worked ok but the foam would eventually work its way out requiring me to stop work to re set it.  Next I tried a piece of dowel that would fit securely in the tail piece. I drilled a hole through the center of the jig/dowel just a bit larger than the work piece (mast).  I fit the jig dowel into the tail stock and fixed it with the locking screw provided.  This worked well.  I could slide the tail stock to the optimum distance to provide a rigid work piece (no sag or vibrating).  At first I worried that their might be burning from the friction of wood spinning against wood but that never happened.  If it did I would remake the jig from a smooth plastic. this jig is part of my lathe tool box and has been reused multiple times.
 
Also, the piece of dowel that sticks out of the feed end of the head stock can whip around if not supported.  A piece of foam there kept it steady. I show all of this in my Syren build where I was working on belaying pins.
 
Richard.

I use the DB250 and have found a way to support long pieces that works for me.
I remove all the components on the tail stock.  The dowel slips through the head stock and then through the tail stock. I move the tail stock as close to the head stock as necessary to provide rigid support for the dowel.
At first i used a piece of foam around the dowel in the tail stock to keep it from vibrating.  That worked ok but the foam would eventually work its way out requiring me to stop work to re set it.  Next I tried a piece of dowel that would fit securely in the tail piece. I drilled a hole through the center of the jig/dowel just a bit larger than the work piece (mast).  I fit the jig dowel into the tail stock and fixed it with the locking screw provided.  This worked well.  I could slide the tail stock to the optimum distance to provide a rigid work piece (no sag or vibrating).  At first I worried that their might be burning from the friction of wood spinning against wood but that never happened.  If it did I would remake the jig from a smooth plastic. this jig is part of my lathe tool box and has been reused multiple times.
 
Also, the piece of dowel that sticks out of the feed end of the head stock can whip around if not supported.  A piece of foam there kept it steady. I show all of this in my Syren build where I was working on belaying pins.
 
Richard.

I am sorry I have taken awhile to update the log but I have been busy with the ship. In preparation for rigging the cannon/carronades I needed to accomplish a bit of homework. First, I needed to draw up the hooks for the rigging. This was etched into .015 brass sheet. This would be the equivalent of a ¾" thick hook. I also really wanted to spend dedicated time to work with the Byrnes Ropewalk to I have spent some dedicated time working on the Byrnes Ropewalk to test materials (silk, cotton, and linen), and to derive formulas for achieving the various rope scales I would need in the rigging.
 
I will post more details on this later but have decided most of the rigging will be cotton. Once this was accomplished it was a matter of starting the assembly of the cannons to the ship. The long guns were pinned through the rear trucks and the carronades were pinned through the sled and quoin. The breeching lines were all seized to the breeching rings previously installed on the ship. Next I started rigging the blocks sets to the cannons starting at the stern long gun and working forward.
 
The huge lesson learned in this is silk line and photo etched hooks do not mix well. The sharp edges of the brass damaged the strop sufficiently to cause them to break as I tried to rig them to the ship. I have switched the silk out with cotton which stands much stronger against the brass edges.
 
As the cannon are rigged, the loose end of the lanyards are cut and glued to the deck. Later coils will be glued over the ends. Since the cannon are fully run out, the coils will not be Flemish coils or tied up in neatly but similarly to those shown on the photo below. These are temporary coils (not final).
 

 
Here is a photo showing the first long gun and carronade rigged. The lines have been terminated where the coils will later be glued.
 
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Anyway, that is where she is currently, I will update again once the cannon are all rigged.

I use the DB250 and have found a way to support long pieces that works for me.
I remove all the components on the tail stock.  The dowel slips through the head stock and then through the tail stock. I move the tail stock as close to the head stock as necessary to provide rigid support for the dowel.
At first i used a piece of foam around the dowel in the tail stock to keep it from vibrating.  That worked ok but the foam would eventually work its way out requiring me to stop work to re set it.  Next I tried a piece of dowel that would fit securely in the tail piece. I drilled a hole through the center of the jig/dowel just a bit larger than the work piece (mast).  I fit the jig dowel into the tail stock and fixed it with the locking screw provided.  This worked well.  I could slide the tail stock to the optimum distance to provide a rigid work piece (no sag or vibrating).  At first I worried that their might be burning from the friction of wood spinning against wood but that never happened.  If it did I would remake the jig from a smooth plastic. this jig is part of my lathe tool box and has been reused multiple times.
 
Also, the piece of dowel that sticks out of the feed end of the head stock can whip around if not supported.  A piece of foam there kept it steady. I show all of this in my Syren build where I was working on belaying pins.
 
Richard.

I can't believe it has been over a month since I posted to the buildlog.  Unfortunately, I have not had much time to work on Atalanta.
 
The chesstree and the fenders are relatively simple structures, being essentially a straight piece of wood with a taper towards the water.  Make this taper first on an overly thick piece of wood and then sand the inside of the piece to match the curvature of the hull.  There is a groove scored on the outboard side.  Since the width of the piece decreases inferiorly, each groove must be cut in separately rather than together with a scraper.  I used a single tooth scraper to make the groove and then turned the piece around to cut the other side.  The chesstree had a sheave built into it.  I simulated the sheave by drilling holes at the top and bottom of the sheave opening and then used a chisel to carve the sheave.
 

 
The next step (no pun intended) was to make the six steps.  These were made up by scraping a molding for the mid-portion and then laminating three strips of wood, two on top and one on the bottom to the molding.  The sides of the steps were shaped with needle files and an 11 blade.  
 

 

 

 

 
The steps fixed to the wale were painted black.  The frieze was carried over the outer surface of the top step.  I left the top of the step solid blue.
 

 

 

 
The main and mizzen channels were added next.  These are pinned and epoxied to the hull since, in my past experience, they are easily knocked off.  The ironwork for the channels is next.
 

Hello,
thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in. 
Here I show the to cut out of the raw locks
and another images of the interior works of the gig.