Azzoun
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I obtained the Tamiya Acrylic Flat IJN Gray paint pot equivalent to the T-69 which is…XF-77. Why couldn’t it be the same number?? I rattle can primed the subassemblies with Tamiya white primer for fine detail which does a nice job. I thought the lacquer rattle can laid paint too thick, too fast so I became determined to use a newish tool for me, the airbrush. I picked up the flag ship, Harder and Steinbeck, because part of the fun of this hobby is spending money on it. That was my victim some fateful Friday two some years ago. It is a fine tool that I have no business owning because it’s for an expert that I aspire to be. I diluted the Tamiya paint with 91% alcohol using the bottle top-off technique and it sprayed very nicely, dried quickly, and provided a very nice fine matte finish. I then attempted a zenithal technique to highlight the horizontal upward facing surfaces and got a bit carried away. The deck ended up lighter than I was hoping for but believe some weathering will tone it down. Plus, it’ll be well covered with planes at some point, a lot of the deck stays in shadow, probably want it a bit lighter? Happy Accident?
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Then I focused on adding some details to the gun turrets including ladders, arial tower, and railings. The arial tower was scratch made from available brass. Using a stencil, I determined a proper shape of the base pattern, marked them in piece of wood and then drilled holes in each angle to hold the legs. Then soldered the legs together at the top, soldered the cross member and trimmed that to the proper length. Using heat sinking clamps, I then soldered the inner support trusses. I’ll admit that it’s a bit overscale in terms of leg thickness. Then I mounted all the subassemblies to holders for airbrushing.
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Hello! Been pushing steady on this Mogami the past 9 months, starting to feel like a need a break. When I start feeling impatient, it’s better to put it down for a bit, so I’ve been messing with a side paper model of the Koln. I intend to create a build log for that soon. Since our last discussion, I focused on finishing all photo etching details on the aft deck to be painted the spray can lacquer IJN Gray I’ve been using on the rest of the hull (Tamiya T-69). I started by determining the placement of the plane carrying carts by modeling out the configuration. It was neat to see all the planes on the model, it was a feature that initially attracted me to this subject. Then I taped off the aft deck and hull portions to be painted, shot that section.
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Ever use sand sealer? Apply, sand then one more, and fine sand should get you there.. Joshua
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By the way, all those references came from a book you should get if you're going to continue rigging ships. Excellent reference. here's the cover
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So. The portion you're starting with there is rigging the shrouds to the dead eyes. Generally would be dark dark brown or black to show that they were tarred. You're best bet is to attach the shrouds at the top of the mast first, then using a spacer that holds the top deadeye at a certain distance, wrap and secure the shroud to the deadeye. Then rig the deadeyes together like you're doing but use some thread/rope about 1/3 of the thickness of the rope you're using there.. here are some pics that may help Joshua
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Hi Will, welcome to MSW. If you're into maritime history, you should consider checking out the Philadelphia Ship Model Society, our next meeting is this Sunday at Laurel Acres park where the membership will be running RC models in the lake. www.PhiladelphiaShipModelSociety.com All the best, Joshua
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You don't need to, and it's probably a better idea to not glue the mast in and use the stay rigging to keep the mast in place. Coming along nicely! Joshua
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I know where there are some Helldivers and Hellcats are for sale.... Let me connect with the seller. How much you offering? PM me. Thanks! Joshua
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Anyone out there working on a card model?
Azzoun replied to gagliano1770's topic in Card and Paper Models
I recently acquired a number of paper model kits that I'm interested to take a shot at however everything is in German. Can anyone suggest where I can get English instructions? Or just info in general on the kit? Thanks!
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Jerome, could you advise on where you're located? Our club receives numerous requests that we cannot fullfill. Joshua
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It's your model, but I've seen most people use flat black because in small scale, to high of gloss looks out of scale. If it's brass, many of use a diluted blacken solution that will chemically turn the outside of the metal black which can then be polished. These steps should be performed prior to assembling to other parts of the model. What do you think? You enjoying building model ships? Making better progress than I would have expected! Joshua
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Congrats! Looks amazing... If mine comes out looking that good, it'll be amazing to see in the water!
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Next NRG Conference
Azzoun replied to YankeeClipper's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Battleship NJ?, Philadelphia? -
Holy Crow, you’re a natural. That looks really nice. Keep it up! Awesome paint work, nice crisp water line.
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Didn't spend a lot of time in the plans but both models looked impressive - Thanks to Nick for hoisting them down. Joshua
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Ted, Thanks for keeping us posted. I also own this Nichimo kit and had considered selling it except my kit is mint. My initial intent was to build it as a static model but now have acquired the more accurate Trumpeter version. Now, I've decided I want to make the Nichimo RC as it was meant to be. And so, acquired the hardware but I'll be following your log to the finish line, looking forward to seeing the end product.! Joshua
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If you're talking about the series holes that you drop pins into, it's call a pin rail where belaying pins go. You're really doing that kit some solid justice, I think you're going to land a pretty impressive model for your first when you're done! Joshua
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Doing some fine work- looks great!
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Your build log is primarily for you to share your work and seek assistance. If there's time between updates, that's more the normal than the exception. Take your time and enjoy the process, there's no hurry. Contribute to your build log in a way that serves you, your audience will chime in as they can, if they see it. If you want more interactions with members on this site, visit their build logs or discussion threads and chime in. You should check out the New London, Connecticut Northeast Ship Modelers' Conference on Youtube. Joshua
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No worries on posting, sometimes I only post once a year! Not a job Looks like good progress!
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Just a note, before you plank, you'll need to fair the bulkheads to the shape of the hull. Meaning, take a sanding block and knock the square corners down so they're at an angle the is inline with the shape of the hull so the planks lay flat upon them.
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Hey Lego! Looks like you're learning a lot on this build and that's the point! Despite anything you may be unsatisfied with, when the build is done, it'll be hardly noticeable, especially to those who don't build models. Keel looks nice and straight now! So, couple fileable items for next time is along with making sure the keel is straight before you start, before you glue in the bulkheads (cross members to the false keel), you'll want to make sure they fit square to the keel. Is your false deck now glued to the tops of the keel and bulkheads now? The back section should align with edges of bulkheads like in the front. You'll definitely want to straighten that out. If you used the white pva wood glue, rubbing alcohol will dissolve the glue and unbind it if you need to re-do. To answer your question, the deck planking should be smooth and flush with the other planks, so you'll need to keep sanding to achieve that. Joshua
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https://www.bluejacketinc.com/ build ships for commission, maybe reach out to them? Joshua
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