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Azzoun

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Everything posted by Azzoun

  1. I love these types of topics! I actually have that Bismarck kit you're working on, the Russian version. Takes up a lot of space! I want to get started on it just to free up my area! Otherwise, I'm working on 1/50 Hachette Black Pearl that started on because I got a little burned out on the Prince De Neufchatel - Pretty focused on getting this done with a scratch built rigging based on the Royal Caroline. Most of the remaining elements are built, in the process of assembling and running the running rigging, then shrouds, anchors, and some remaining details. Presenting with Topsails, Driver and Jib set. Courses, Bowsprit and Topgallants furled. 1/64 Model Shipways Prince De Neufchatel - Hull is done, many of the hull related details are done, need to be assembled. Obtained the plans from the Smithsonian to confirm rigging and spars - will present with bare spars. 1/350 Tamiya Mogami - Lots of photo etch to work through, hull and portions of the super structure are started. 1/350 Revell German Submarine TYPE VII C - assembled, waiting for paint and weathering - want to put in a diorama with resin and contact mines. I'm diligently avoiding starting anything else until I finish the first 2 items on this list. Joshua
  2. I'm hoping someone can assist, I've looked in several books and similar models of the Royal Caroline and I'm a bit lost now. The below resources is the Anatomy of a Ship for the Royal Caroline. Per the review of the deck, none of the lines indicated on the fighting tops belay at the deck level. How would these lines belay at these locations on the fighting top? For context, the some descriptions of the lines shown belayed at the fighting tops are topgallant cluelines (X36's), topgallant parrels (X33's), course leechlines (X18's), topgallant halyards (X31's), and Topgallant Lifts (X32's). Any diagrams or thoughts you may have would be very helpful in understanding how these lines terminate here. Thanks in advance! Joshua
  3. Looks great, what would you say was your best resource in learning how to mask and weather a ship for painting? I really want to get into weathered hulls. Most of my building has been wood ship models. Thanks In advance Joshua
  4. I've really been happy with purchases with BNAModelWorld.com. MK1 Design - 1/200 IJN Battleship Mikasa Value Pack Detail Set with Wooden Deck (bnamodelworld.com) Joshua
  5. Nehemiah, Welcome to MSW. Might I offer that you consider visiting and potentially joining the Philadelphia Ship Model Society. Currently we are meeting virtually via zoom. We'd enjoy the opportunity to connect with you, offer assistance if you have any questions, and having you show off your accomplishments. We're also hosting a ModelCon at the Battleship NJ on 8/7 and we are welcoming models complete or in process. Details are at philadelphiashipmodelsociety.com. Best of luck on your builds! Joshua
  6. 1 - Revell Constitution that passed away from my ex-wife waving a towel at the smoke detector. 1/2 way through the model, I discovered wood model kits and loved the idea of working with material similar to the real thing. Forced my way to finishing the constitution, been building wood ever since. However, I do have a few steel hull kits, working on the 1/350 Mogami.
  7. Rob, I have an intact Corel SM23 Victory Kit that would build into a 40" Model, decent size. I also live in the Philadelphia area. I'd sell to you for $250, about half of what its worth, it'd save me on the EBAY and shipping fees. Joshua
  8. Vince, I just found this log because I recently acquired a stash of kits that contained this kit, def. a diamond among the rough and it's intact! She's an impressive build! Keep up the good work! I've got too many started to kick in it with you as much as I'd love to! I was just checking out the figurehead, such amazing detail! Joshua
  9. Yeah, i have some advice. Don't forget to have fun and don't be afraid to screw it up - all models get screwed up in one way or the other. Just accept and enjoy!
  10. Made good progress on the Mogami over the weekend. I'm almost confident enough to make another attempt at the AA guns. I've discovered that wax pencils for doing rhinestone work is amazing at picking up small details to glue on. The flight deck has been affixed with some persuasion, the PE had interfered with the kit designed assembly so some modifications which are livable. The PE details completely replace this lower bridge which was interesting to build but had some pleasing results. There were PE options for the aft AA gun stations on both sides of the flight deck but.... well, they didn't work out. Here's a couple overall status photos of parts that have been prepped and dry fitted to show progress.
  11. I just hit it with a grill lighter for a half of a minute, worked great, metal is much easier to bend after that and it takes away its memory!
  12. Almost a year since I last touched this model, been busy on another project. Had fun building these hatches tonight. Remembered to anneal the metal this time, what a difference!
  13. If you send me your email to Modelship@yahoo.com, the New Jersey Club's meeting is tomorrow night at 7p. Stop in as a visitor. I'll be on.
  14. Hey Michael, I'm a member at both clubs, both great organizations. We are currently meeting via zoom meetings. We have a big ModelCon coming up in August at the Battleship. Maybe you can join us! Joshua
  15. this was my first wood model and was a very pleasant memory, and builds into a very nice model. I still have it!
  16. I would say I've seen this kit go for as much as $800 on Ebay. However I always go into it really low to see how urgent the seller is looking to part with it. I think a reasonable offer would be around..... $400 if it's in good complete condition.
  17. Hello All, Some progress on the Mogami - Painted the hull, applied the foredeck plating since it was now painted and had a wicked mishap with the glue dissolving a small spot! I managed to cover the surrounding errors for a passable light sand and quick paint touch up. Not perfect but it'll do. I was much more careful with the 2nd brown deck level application. I've got a couple small seams that I'm going to try and go back and fix/touch up. Installed the torpedo launchers - the spare torpedoes were also a glue-able part but I didn't bother painting, you'll never see them once the deck goes on. Only the completionism in me made me glue them in. This is my first real incursion with photo etch and learning lots of lessons. My first try at folding one of these triple AA guns was a disaster. It requires the folding and assembly of 5 separate pieces! Thankfully the detail kit give two extra to consume. Worst case is I use the plastic molded guns, or I get a set from Infiniti. The application of PE detail to the turrets went much better and enjoyed the result. Thanks for stopping in.
  18. Hello, Things are starting to get a bit fiddly with these companionway hatches and flight deck supports. I started using my daughter’s desk chair so that I don’t have to lean over to get in close to the work. This is my first go with PE at this level but definitely is worth the effort. Trying to figure out where some of the PE goes is a bit of a puzzle sometimes as FlyHawk doesn’t explicitly place every part. Requires time to go over the directions, diagrams and parts a couple of times to assess what gets replaced by the PE. The decks require a fair amount of stripping to prepare them for the PE detail replacements. Getting ready to be able to put the hull through the first round of painting with IJN Grey and Anti-fouling Red. I’m going to paint the bow plate separately because most of it will be brown for the linoleum. Puttied the seam in the middle of the hull, did some puttying at the lip of the deck plating to eliminate. I’ve been having a hard time stepping away from this one! I’m going on a camping trip soon, I’m trying to work out what I can bring with me to work on! Joshua
  19. One fun element to plastic ship modeling is you can have a hull together is pretty much one sitting, that's motivating. I really enjoyed how this model has gone together with metal fittings and screws. Worst part of it being this little lip at the bow. It's a little unnerving scraping off all this detail for the brass etch replacements, less sad for the overscale diamond plate on the aft deck. I drilled out the portholes. I'm going to start working on the propeller assembly and filling in the seams of the hull to paint. Any ideas on cleaning up the plastic "fuzzies" in the portholes?
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