Jaager

I have not seen any that are double. 
 
The cants are generally single and mostly near straight, so one piece of timber will cover the length. No butt joints. Each heels to the deadwood at a different angle and all of the edges sit against the neighbor on either side.  A folding paper fan sort of effect when viewed from above. The goal is to have the face square with the main waterline.  This saves wood and the bevel is at the heel.  My money is on there being a liberal use of chocks in the space between each frame. 
 
I do not employ them. I stay with whole bends up to the FP.  In most of the zone where cants are, I use solid wood where the spaces would be.  There is significant bevel and a lot of loss of wood. At model scales, this does not matter.  With the chocks in the real ship, the side view was probably close to my solid wall zone - except that the bevel makes each frame appear to be much wider than a cant frame.
 
 

The situation is that there are two schools of thought on this subject here.
 
School Tradition: 
Use the proper species of wood to begin with.  That is wood with pores that are too small to present a visual problem.
Primer is an inexpensive material with a function to reduce the number of coats of paint or clear coat by one.
Half concentration shellac is a primer that is compatible with any type of clear coat or paint.
Full strength shellac is an excellent clear coat - as long as it is not exposed to water - like a sweating cocktail glass.
Shellac with a bit of linseed  or tung oil is French polish.
Shellac has two primary flavors: garnet and near water clear.  It comes either premixed (Zinsser) or as dry flakes. Alcohol is the solvent (usually ethanol).
The wood can be colored using a aniline penetrating dye - if grain still visible is desired.  Alcohol base is less deep, but does not raise the grain.  Water base is deep, but requires pretreatment with water followed by abrasion to fix the raised grain.
Stain is a sort of paint meant for poor quality wood.
Paint -
raw pigment can be mixed with a binder ( for example: polymerized linseed or tung oil) for a really traditional material.
Commercial  - finely ground pigment is important - usually marketed as model paint.  More important than brand is that the finish be either flat, or matt - but never gloss or high gloss.
 
School Tradition also holds that CA is to be avoided.  PVA for wood to wood and two part epoxy for metal to wood. 
 
School Tradition is also a minor segment - usually inhabiting the scratch build wing.

The situation is that there are two schools of thought on this subject here.
 
School Tradition: 
Use the proper species of wood to begin with.  That is wood with pores that are too small to present a visual problem.
Primer is an inexpensive material with a function to reduce the number of coats of paint or clear coat by one.
Half concentration shellac is a primer that is compatible with any type of clear coat or paint.
Full strength shellac is an excellent clear coat - as long as it is not exposed to water - like a sweating cocktail glass.
Shellac with a bit of linseed  or tung oil is French polish.
Shellac has two primary flavors: garnet and near water clear.  It comes either premixed (Zinsser) or as dry flakes. Alcohol is the solvent (usually ethanol).
The wood can be colored using a aniline penetrating dye - if grain still visible is desired.  Alcohol base is less deep, but does not raise the grain.  Water base is deep, but requires pretreatment with water followed by abrasion to fix the raised grain.
Stain is a sort of paint meant for poor quality wood.
Paint -
raw pigment can be mixed with a binder ( for example: polymerized linseed or tung oil) for a really traditional material.
Commercial  - finely ground pigment is important - usually marketed as model paint.  More important than brand is that the finish be either flat, or matt - but never gloss or high gloss.
 
School Tradition also holds that CA is to be avoided.  PVA for wood to wood and two part epoxy for metal to wood. 
 
School Tradition is also a minor segment - usually inhabiting the scratch build wing.

The situation is that there are two schools of thought on this subject here.
 
School Tradition: 
Use the proper species of wood to begin with.  That is wood with pores that are too small to present a visual problem.
Primer is an inexpensive material with a function to reduce the number of coats of paint or clear coat by one.
Half concentration shellac is a primer that is compatible with any type of clear coat or paint.
Full strength shellac is an excellent clear coat - as long as it is not exposed to water - like a sweating cocktail glass.
Shellac with a bit of linseed  or tung oil is French polish.
Shellac has two primary flavors: garnet and near water clear.  It comes either premixed (Zinsser) or as dry flakes. Alcohol is the solvent (usually ethanol).
The wood can be colored using a aniline penetrating dye - if grain still visible is desired.  Alcohol base is less deep, but does not raise the grain.  Water base is deep, but requires pretreatment with water followed by abrasion to fix the raised grain.
Stain is a sort of paint meant for poor quality wood.
Paint -
raw pigment can be mixed with a binder ( for example: polymerized linseed or tung oil) for a really traditional material.
Commercial  - finely ground pigment is important - usually marketed as model paint.  More important than brand is that the finish be either flat, or matt - but never gloss or high gloss.
 
School Tradition also holds that CA is to be avoided.  PVA for wood to wood and two part epoxy for metal to wood. 
 
School Tradition is also a minor segment - usually inhabiting the scratch build wing.

The situation is that there are two schools of thought on this subject here.
 
School Tradition: 
Use the proper species of wood to begin with.  That is wood with pores that are too small to present a visual problem.
Primer is an inexpensive material with a function to reduce the number of coats of paint or clear coat by one.
Half concentration shellac is a primer that is compatible with any type of clear coat or paint.
Full strength shellac is an excellent clear coat - as long as it is not exposed to water - like a sweating cocktail glass.
Shellac with a bit of linseed  or tung oil is French polish.
Shellac has two primary flavors: garnet and near water clear.  It comes either premixed (Zinsser) or as dry flakes. Alcohol is the solvent (usually ethanol).
The wood can be colored using a aniline penetrating dye - if grain still visible is desired.  Alcohol base is less deep, but does not raise the grain.  Water base is deep, but requires pretreatment with water followed by abrasion to fix the raised grain.
Stain is a sort of paint meant for poor quality wood.
Paint -
raw pigment can be mixed with a binder ( for example: polymerized linseed or tung oil) for a really traditional material.
Commercial  - finely ground pigment is important - usually marketed as model paint.  More important than brand is that the finish be either flat, or matt - but never gloss or high gloss.
 
School Tradition also holds that CA is to be avoided.  PVA for wood to wood and two part epoxy for metal to wood. 
 
School Tradition is also a minor segment - usually inhabiting the scratch build wing.

Bruce, Alan,
 
Your subject of interest best belongs in the Painting Forum.  It could seriously divert this build log. 
Copy/paste #296-299 to that forum and even though it is a subject that has many threads that intersect, it may have legs for a while. 
I can add a bit of clarification as can several others, but not here.  An important aspect of it is that it is more opinion than Science.  It is also a love me? love my opinion! sort of subject - a whole lot of emotional investment on the part of some.
 
Mark,
I have become a bit of a medical apostate.  I am willing to accept the consequences if I am wrong and there is only one investor, so keep this is mind.   About the >BP and the meds to affect it.  I would balance just how > the Bp gets and what the probable harm could be vs the side effects of the meds.  I have been away from the field for over 10 years and have not kept up at all.  But way back then, there were several paths with many different bundles of med induced problems, so if the course you are on is causing problems, try a different one.  If your doc is a love me, love my choice sort of Ego, rethink your choice of MD.   How bad would ignoring it be? How bad would just tapping it with HCTZ be?  Or just Atenolol?  or the two?  I started in the mid 60's  in hospital, and the basket of meds that were "vital"  to take chronically to reverse long term poorly chosen life style damage is very different from the basket when I bailed.    

Kev,
 
I leave any clamping on for ~12 hrs  ( I have been using Titebond II  since 1972 and have seen no reason to change. But I chose the water resistant version because we live on a water planet. )  Rather than rush the planking and possibly stress the bond, why not run two parallel projects?  And skip to on coming sub assemblies on the Jolly boat?
Bill,
I use a square of Cut-Rite for the same purpose.  I use a miniature sponge on a toothpick as an applicator and after the first leftover dries, I have an amber base for the next puddle.  Several weeks and the base gets pert thick.
By the way, a gold star for the near free plank bender that is about the perfect tool for doing the bending. It should not get as excessively hot as the soldering iron adaptions that are the more common alternatives.

The French seem to have been somewhat obsessed with mirroring the floor timber orientation at the midline.  They also seem to have used all bends (paired frames).  In North America, my observation was that an orientation was chosen and it was maintained from AP to FP.  After The Revolution there was not often the midship nonsense.  If there was, a close together double line of stations seems to be on the plans.  The English did not always use all bends.  In fact, it is my observation that it was a bit rare.  They most often used two bends per station and filling frames inbetween  or a bend per station and the rest filling frames.  If there was an odd number of filling frames, the alternating of floor timbers with F1 overruled any fore and aft orientation.  There was an evolving change from 1719 thru the Napoleonic period - when the number of ships was increasing and the supply of timber was decreasing.

Bruce, Alan,
 
Your subject of interest best belongs in the Painting Forum.  It could seriously divert this build log. 
Copy/paste #296-299 to that forum and even though it is a subject that has many threads that intersect, it may have legs for a while. 
I can add a bit of clarification as can several others, but not here.  An important aspect of it is that it is more opinion than Science.  It is also a love me? love my opinion! sort of subject - a whole lot of emotional investment on the part of some.
 
Mark,
I have become a bit of a medical apostate.  I am willing to accept the consequences if I am wrong and there is only one investor, so keep this is mind.   About the >BP and the meds to affect it.  I would balance just how > the Bp gets and what the probable harm could be vs the side effects of the meds.  I have been away from the field for over 10 years and have not kept up at all.  But way back then, there were several paths with many different bundles of med induced problems, so if the course you are on is causing problems, try a different one.  If your doc is a love me, love my choice sort of Ego, rethink your choice of MD.   How bad would ignoring it be? How bad would just tapping it with HCTZ be?  Or just Atenolol?  or the two?  I started in the mid 60's  in hospital, and the basket of meds that were "vital"  to take chronically to reverse long term poorly chosen life style damage is very different from the basket when I bailed.    

Bruce, Alan,
 
Your subject of interest best belongs in the Painting Forum.  It could seriously divert this build log. 
Copy/paste #296-299 to that forum and even though it is a subject that has many threads that intersect, it may have legs for a while. 
I can add a bit of clarification as can several others, but not here.  An important aspect of it is that it is more opinion than Science.  It is also a love me? love my opinion! sort of subject - a whole lot of emotional investment on the part of some.
 
Mark,
I have become a bit of a medical apostate.  I am willing to accept the consequences if I am wrong and there is only one investor, so keep this is mind.   About the >BP and the meds to affect it.  I would balance just how > the Bp gets and what the probable harm could be vs the side effects of the meds.  I have been away from the field for over 10 years and have not kept up at all.  But way back then, there were several paths with many different bundles of med induced problems, so if the course you are on is causing problems, try a different one.  If your doc is a love me, love my choice sort of Ego, rethink your choice of MD.   How bad would ignoring it be? How bad would just tapping it with HCTZ be?  Or just Atenolol?  or the two?  I started in the mid 60's  in hospital, and the basket of meds that were "vital"  to take chronically to reverse long term poorly chosen life style damage is very different from the basket when I bailed.    

The bulwark framing on the cutter is spare when compared to large vessels.  In most cases, there was planking inside as well as out. 
The tops and half tops are hidden and filler material can be used.  The English seem to be alone in going out of their way to position the framing to be the actual sides of the ports.  North America and France appear to have more material and just cut away what is in the way of the ports and add more in between.  There were rules for the spacing of the ports as well as size and height.  I think Davis gives a 1750 English rule - based on shot diameter.
 
One aspect that a lot of kit builders seem to ignore is -  well, look at the cutter plan -  the sills and lintels are parallel to the deck sheer - the opening only has right angles in the midship port or two.  The rest are parallelograms.

The bulwark framing on the cutter is spare when compared to large vessels.  In most cases, there was planking inside as well as out. 
The tops and half tops are hidden and filler material can be used.  The English seem to be alone in going out of their way to position the framing to be the actual sides of the ports.  North America and France appear to have more material and just cut away what is in the way of the ports and add more in between.  There were rules for the spacing of the ports as well as size and height.  I think Davis gives a 1750 English rule - based on shot diameter.
 
One aspect that a lot of kit builders seem to ignore is -  well, look at the cutter plan -  the sills and lintels are parallel to the deck sheer - the opening only has right angles in the midship port or two.  The rest are parallelograms.

Your blade is up too high..  I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
 
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
 
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed  dimensions  to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.

The bulwark framing on the cutter is spare when compared to large vessels.  In most cases, there was planking inside as well as out. 
The tops and half tops are hidden and filler material can be used.  The English seem to be alone in going out of their way to position the framing to be the actual sides of the ports.  North America and France appear to have more material and just cut away what is in the way of the ports and add more in between.  There were rules for the spacing of the ports as well as size and height.  I think Davis gives a 1750 English rule - based on shot diameter.
 
One aspect that a lot of kit builders seem to ignore is -  well, look at the cutter plan -  the sills and lintels are parallel to the deck sheer - the opening only has right angles in the midship port or two.  The rest are parallelograms.

Bruce, Alan,
 
Your subject of interest best belongs in the Painting Forum.  It could seriously divert this build log. 
Copy/paste #296-299 to that forum and even though it is a subject that has many threads that intersect, it may have legs for a while. 
I can add a bit of clarification as can several others, but not here.  An important aspect of it is that it is more opinion than Science.  It is also a love me? love my opinion! sort of subject - a whole lot of emotional investment on the part of some.
 
Mark,
I have become a bit of a medical apostate.  I am willing to accept the consequences if I am wrong and there is only one investor, so keep this is mind.   About the >BP and the meds to affect it.  I would balance just how > the Bp gets and what the probable harm could be vs the side effects of the meds.  I have been away from the field for over 10 years and have not kept up at all.  But way back then, there were several paths with many different bundles of med induced problems, so if the course you are on is causing problems, try a different one.  If your doc is a love me, love my choice sort of Ego, rethink your choice of MD.   How bad would ignoring it be? How bad would just tapping it with HCTZ be?  Or just Atenolol?  or the two?  I started in the mid 60's  in hospital, and the basket of meds that were "vital"  to take chronically to reverse long term poorly chosen life style damage is very different from the basket when I bailed.    

Kev,
 
I leave any clamping on for ~12 hrs  ( I have been using Titebond II  since 1972 and have seen no reason to change. But I chose the water resistant version because we live on a water planet. )  Rather than rush the planking and possibly stress the bond, why not run two parallel projects?  And skip to on coming sub assemblies on the Jolly boat?
Bill,
I use a square of Cut-Rite for the same purpose.  I use a miniature sponge on a toothpick as an applicator and after the first leftover dries, I have an amber base for the next puddle.  Several weeks and the base gets pert thick.
By the way, a gold star for the near free plank bender that is about the perfect tool for doing the bending. It should not get as excessively hot as the soldering iron adaptions that are the more common alternatives.

Because your tape is near wood color, I missed what you are doing.
My initial thoughts:
0}  If the tape was not uniform thickness everywhere the stock sits, the movement - up/down or wobble/rocking = bad cuts. 
But I see that the tape extends the length/width (front to back) of the table.
1}  It would be a pain to change the tape with each new thickness to meet the fence.
Then I see that the saw fence has enough slop for it to ride on top of the tape - which makes the tolerances of the machine less than impressive.
2}  If there is any friction or resistance to stock feed, it would irritate me.  If the tape has a slick surface, that should not be a problem.
 
3}  For those of us who use a Renaissance wax protective coat, stick may be a problem
 
Otherwise, what you have is an"exsert" instead of an insert that just raises the table top.  Having a junky fence makes that not a problem.
 
For a lot of things like this, corollaries to the yacht law ( I you have to ask the price, you cannot afford it.) come to mind.  In this case, if you feel the need to ask if it is a good idea, it probably is not a good idea to begin with.)

Because your tape is near wood color, I missed what you are doing.
My initial thoughts:
0}  If the tape was not uniform thickness everywhere the stock sits, the movement - up/down or wobble/rocking = bad cuts. 
But I see that the tape extends the length/width (front to back) of the table.
1}  It would be a pain to change the tape with each new thickness to meet the fence.
Then I see that the saw fence has enough slop for it to ride on top of the tape - which makes the tolerances of the machine less than impressive.
2}  If there is any friction or resistance to stock feed, it would irritate me.  If the tape has a slick surface, that should not be a problem.
 
3}  For those of us who use a Renaissance wax protective coat, stick may be a problem
 
Otherwise, what you have is an"exsert" instead of an insert that just raises the table top.  Having a junky fence makes that not a problem.
 
For a lot of things like this, corollaries to the yacht law ( I you have to ask the price, you cannot afford it.) come to mind.  In this case, if you feel the need to ask if it is a good idea, it probably is not a good idea to begin with.)

Your blade is up too high..  I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
 
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
 
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed  dimensions  to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.

Because your tape is near wood color, I missed what you are doing.
My initial thoughts:
0}  If the tape was not uniform thickness everywhere the stock sits, the movement - up/down or wobble/rocking = bad cuts. 
But I see that the tape extends the length/width (front to back) of the table.
1}  It would be a pain to change the tape with each new thickness to meet the fence.
Then I see that the saw fence has enough slop for it to ride on top of the tape - which makes the tolerances of the machine less than impressive.
2}  If there is any friction or resistance to stock feed, it would irritate me.  If the tape has a slick surface, that should not be a problem.
 
3}  For those of us who use a Renaissance wax protective coat, stick may be a problem
 
Otherwise, what you have is an"exsert" instead of an insert that just raises the table top.  Having a junky fence makes that not a problem.
 
For a lot of things like this, corollaries to the yacht law ( I you have to ask the price, you cannot afford it.) come to mind.  In this case, if you feel the need to ask if it is a good idea, it probably is not a good idea to begin with.)

Your blade is up too high..  I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
 
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
 
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed  dimensions  to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.

Because your tape is near wood color, I missed what you are doing.
My initial thoughts:
0}  If the tape was not uniform thickness everywhere the stock sits, the movement - up/down or wobble/rocking = bad cuts. 
But I see that the tape extends the length/width (front to back) of the table.
1}  It would be a pain to change the tape with each new thickness to meet the fence.
Then I see that the saw fence has enough slop for it to ride on top of the tape - which makes the tolerances of the machine less than impressive.
2}  If there is any friction or resistance to stock feed, it would irritate me.  If the tape has a slick surface, that should not be a problem.
 
3}  For those of us who use a Renaissance wax protective coat, stick may be a problem
 
Otherwise, what you have is an"exsert" instead of an insert that just raises the table top.  Having a junky fence makes that not a problem.
 
For a lot of things like this, corollaries to the yacht law ( I you have to ask the price, you cannot afford it.) come to mind.  In this case, if you feel the need to ask if it is a good idea, it probably is not a good idea to begin with.)

To add to this topic  I am posting - with Guild permission as copy of the data provided to NRJ subscribers in 1979.
It is from USN Standards 1900
 
 
oars.pdf

Your blade is up too high..  I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
 
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
 
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed  dimensions  to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.

Bill,
All of HIC's published plans are available from The Smithsonian at 1:48 usually.  Using the S.I. plans as a starting point is significantly better than messing with a scan from the book.  The cost is $10/sheet and $5/12 for shipping, plus the wait time.  Given the cost and hassle in replication - it may be economical to order 2-3 copies of it from S.I.
Blue Jacket has a solid hull kit of a USRC  - guessing that it is the 51 ton vessel =
Standard: ITEM # K1106A |Kit: $145 | LOA: 19" Scale: 1/4"=1'
The 31 ton would be a bit smaller and the 80 ton a bit larger. Not as much as imagined if thinking in linear - since tons is a cubed function.  The LOA includes the spars?