Jaager

Offset a piece of black craft paper inside the windows.

Offset a piece of black craft paper inside the windows.

Offset a piece of black craft paper inside the windows.

OK  I will start the debate with the following proposition:
 
I have no data to back this up, but for most any assembled kit, the quality of the build is almost a non factor, provided that it meets an acceptable standard.  The sale price would probably be about the same as the retail price of the original kit.  For a $1700 Victory, I doubt that the compensation would even reach that amount.  Those with money to burn will want something original.  Victory, Sovereign of the Seas, or Constitution are anything but original, unique, or rare.  Those likely to value these particular ships are also those most likely to purchase a kit and build it themselves.
Being realistic,  you will never be paid what is needed to cover the number of hours - even at present minimum wage. 
 
A few years ago, I came across a guy selling half model plagues at a crafts fair.   If you develop a quick and dirty technique that is ruthlessly  efficient,  that may be a way to make a profit.  I suspect that all of the present noise is obscuring a substantial and increasing velocity economic change.  One that will have much in common with pre-WWII.  Is the return of a room in a boarding house as one of the few affordable sources of shelter that far away?  The point is that the time when many had money to burn on an expensive decoration may be fading fast.
 
 

OK  I will start the debate with the following proposition:
 
I have no data to back this up, but for most any assembled kit, the quality of the build is almost a non factor, provided that it meets an acceptable standard.  The sale price would probably be about the same as the retail price of the original kit.  For a $1700 Victory, I doubt that the compensation would even reach that amount.  Those with money to burn will want something original.  Victory, Sovereign of the Seas, or Constitution are anything but original, unique, or rare.  Those likely to value these particular ships are also those most likely to purchase a kit and build it themselves.
Being realistic,  you will never be paid what is needed to cover the number of hours - even at present minimum wage. 
 
A few years ago, I came across a guy selling half model plagues at a crafts fair.   If you develop a quick and dirty technique that is ruthlessly  efficient,  that may be a way to make a profit.  I suspect that all of the present noise is obscuring a substantial and increasing velocity economic change.  One that will have much in common with pre-WWII.  Is the return of a room in a boarding house as one of the few affordable sources of shelter that far away?  The point is that the time when many had money to burn on an expensive decoration may be fading fast.
 
 

1) Are you flushing out dips between the moulds? 
2) Are you filling gaps between the planks of the first layer?
If it is the first, a yellow PVA glued piece of wood veneer that is then sanded to a smooth run would be a sure way to go.
If it is the second, why bother?  It will all be hidden by the outer planking layer.  I can't imagine that it is going to float, so what is the problem with there being gaps?
 
For the real planking, a mistake or two is fixed using wood flour from the actual planking species mixed with PVA.  In this case, white PVA cures clear and not the amber of yellow, so if maybe being a tad darker is a problem, use white PVA.

OK  I will start the debate with the following proposition:
 
I have no data to back this up, but for most any assembled kit, the quality of the build is almost a non factor, provided that it meets an acceptable standard.  The sale price would probably be about the same as the retail price of the original kit.  For a $1700 Victory, I doubt that the compensation would even reach that amount.  Those with money to burn will want something original.  Victory, Sovereign of the Seas, or Constitution are anything but original, unique, or rare.  Those likely to value these particular ships are also those most likely to purchase a kit and build it themselves.
Being realistic,  you will never be paid what is needed to cover the number of hours - even at present minimum wage. 
 
A few years ago, I came across a guy selling half model plagues at a crafts fair.   If you develop a quick and dirty technique that is ruthlessly  efficient,  that may be a way to make a profit.  I suspect that all of the present noise is obscuring a substantial and increasing velocity economic change.  One that will have much in common with pre-WWII.  Is the return of a room in a boarding house as one of the few affordable sources of shelter that far away?  The point is that the time when many had money to burn on an expensive decoration may be fading fast.
 
 

OK  I will start the debate with the following proposition:
 
I have no data to back this up, but for most any assembled kit, the quality of the build is almost a non factor, provided that it meets an acceptable standard.  The sale price would probably be about the same as the retail price of the original kit.  For a $1700 Victory, I doubt that the compensation would even reach that amount.  Those with money to burn will want something original.  Victory, Sovereign of the Seas, or Constitution are anything but original, unique, or rare.  Those likely to value these particular ships are also those most likely to purchase a kit and build it themselves.
Being realistic,  you will never be paid what is needed to cover the number of hours - even at present minimum wage. 
 
A few years ago, I came across a guy selling half model plagues at a crafts fair.   If you develop a quick and dirty technique that is ruthlessly  efficient,  that may be a way to make a profit.  I suspect that all of the present noise is obscuring a substantial and increasing velocity economic change.  One that will have much in common with pre-WWII.  Is the return of a room in a boarding house as one of the few affordable sources of shelter that far away?  The point is that the time when many had money to burn on an expensive decoration may be fading fast.
 
 

OK  I will start the debate with the following proposition:
 
I have no data to back this up, but for most any assembled kit, the quality of the build is almost a non factor, provided that it meets an acceptable standard.  The sale price would probably be about the same as the retail price of the original kit.  For a $1700 Victory, I doubt that the compensation would even reach that amount.  Those with money to burn will want something original.  Victory, Sovereign of the Seas, or Constitution are anything but original, unique, or rare.  Those likely to value these particular ships are also those most likely to purchase a kit and build it themselves.
Being realistic,  you will never be paid what is needed to cover the number of hours - even at present minimum wage. 
 
A few years ago, I came across a guy selling half model plagues at a crafts fair.   If you develop a quick and dirty technique that is ruthlessly  efficient,  that may be a way to make a profit.  I suspect that all of the present noise is obscuring a substantial and increasing velocity economic change.  One that will have much in common with pre-WWII.  Is the return of a room in a boarding house as one of the few affordable sources of shelter that far away?  The point is that the time when many had money to burn on an expensive decoration may be fading fast.
 
 

I may have this reversed.  I keep getting confused about where the floors are positioned in a bend.
(Keeping in mind that "never" and "always" and similar absolute terms do not reflect every situation.)
 
The French seem to have the floor on the aft side of the pair forward of the deadflat and on the forward side of the pair aft of the deadflat.  Strange things were done at the deadflat Station to do this.  If anything needed doubling, it was the Floors.   All of the French framing that I have seen indicates that all of the framing was bends.  They also seemed to avoid cant frames. (very wise)
 
I think in North America the floor was always on the aft side of the paired frames. Also favored was all bends and avoiding cant frames.  The strangeness  at the midship Station was avoided.  It was to pick a pattern and live with it.  My present thinking about Canada built ships is that although the English ruled, the shipwrights were France in method, as were those in the US.
 
The English seemed to be all over the place.  Some times all bends and many others there were single filling frames.  Some times the number of filling frames was an odd number.  The alternating Floor to F1 interval was maintained.  This means that whether a Floor was on the aft side or fore side of any specific bend is not predictable.  It does not matter if the bends are in the forward 40% or in the aft 60%.  Cants fore and aft were the rule. 
 
 

Heavy duty bending equipment suggests serious bending is contemplated.
 
I apologize for the inappropriate anthropomorphic terminology, it just is easier.
 
Wood wants to bend thru the thin dimension.
But for sharp bends pay attention to the grain,  if it is not parallel it may delaminate.
Wood does not want to bend thru the thick dimension.  It will try to spring back forever. It will tend to twist.
 
This means that for parts like rails, it is a better choice to follow prototype practice.  The method is to spill the shape from a much wider plank and assemble it in pieces.  Most kits do not supply the necessary wide stock, so a third party supplier is needed.

Needle files are a bit small for what you need.  You could take a look at luthier tool suppliers - they have medium range files with a range of bite.  StewMac  is not economy but you can get a lay of the land as far as some possibilities for what is available.  A lesion  that I can't seem to learn - when filing - apply downward force directly above the surface being cut.  Applying it between the hold point and the cut point tends to make a small file into two pieces - even the expensive Swiss ones.
 
That Basswood is going to fight you all the way.  The fibers are going to want to roll.  You might consider starting over with Yellow Poplar.  It is easy to cut. but holds a sharp edge.  It is also about the least expensive hardwood and  10/4 and even 12/4 lumber is available.

If you are going to do much of this  it would serve you well to get a copy of Yedlinsky -- it is easier to read  as well as covering the 18th century for the RN. 
 
For a sloop 18 gun   11"  minimum "below the cutting down in Midships"  "and forward and aft to increase with the rising"
the siding is also 11"    Floor at head 7.5"  
fine print in Steele    -
 
Victory is a first rate  - a whole nuther animal as far as scantlings   Longridge is about Victory. 
The physical characteristics of wood as a material for the construction of hulls has an upper limit beyond which a hull cannot sustain the stresses.
A first rate is at the cutting edge of that limit.  A sloop is not. 
What with the ridiculously heavy weapons being carried perilously close to being above the metacenter and the length making Z axis integrity difficult - thick  was needed - as well as extras - like riders.  A sloop would not be a scaled down first rate.
 

Rather than bolt tools directly to my bench top,  I added a woodworkers vise under the front of the bench - a cheap HF vise that wants to rack when tightened, because the tolerances are from poverty.  But I do not do full size wood projects and it is not needed for that.
I use a 2x12 to make a tool base.  I use lag bolts to secure the tool and to mount a second piece of 2x12 to the front of the base and make it long enough to engage the vise.   
I can store the tools under the bench and have the whole bench open when I need it.   I can interchange a grinder,  machinist's vise,  9" band saw.  
There are open wrenches specific to the saw.  I fixed a spring clamp that is for dowels used for clothing hangers to the top of the base.  It holds the wrenches, but easily turns them loose.   Holes in the top hold tool specific Allen wrenches.
 
It looks like a 2x12 may be difficult to source, but the width is good to have.

My first drum sanding table used a 1/6 HP motor.  It did not supply enough power.  I suspect that a motor generates excess heat when asked to do more work than it was engineered to supply.

To second Wefalck,
A budget, corded 1/2" drill would make a turned stock driver.  Fix it in a jig on a board.  Many come with an ability to set the RPM.
As a common tool, there may be some available second hand.
I intend to try a ball bearing race as a tail stock holder.  They come with a range of ID.  Shim if necessary.
 
My Unimat SL has a short bed as far as mast lengths go.  I figure that by using a race in the tail stock holder, there is no limit in how much length can extend beyond the race. The effective  bed length can be doubled by being able to flip the stock end to end.
 
 

My first drum sanding table used a 1/6 HP motor.  It did not supply enough power.  I suspect that a motor generates excess heat when asked to do more work than it was engineered to supply.

To second Wefalck,
A budget, corded 1/2" drill would make a turned stock driver.  Fix it in a jig on a board.  Many come with an ability to set the RPM.
As a common tool, there may be some available second hand.
I intend to try a ball bearing race as a tail stock holder.  They come with a range of ID.  Shim if necessary.
 
My Unimat SL has a short bed as far as mast lengths go.  I figure that by using a race in the tail stock holder, there is no limit in how much length can extend beyond the race. The effective  bed length can be doubled by being able to flip the stock end to end.
 
 

To second Wefalck,
A budget, corded 1/2" drill would make a turned stock driver.  Fix it in a jig on a board.  Many come with an ability to set the RPM.
As a common tool, there may be some available second hand.
I intend to try a ball bearing race as a tail stock holder.  They come with a range of ID.  Shim if necessary.
 
My Unimat SL has a short bed as far as mast lengths go.  I figure that by using a race in the tail stock holder, there is no limit in how much length can extend beyond the race. The effective  bed length can be doubled by being able to flip the stock end to end.
 
 

If it is your ambition to manufacture and sell ship model kits, buying a laser cutter might be something to consider.  For a one-off proposition, a laser cutter seems to me to be an extravagance - a really huge extravagance.  The computer portion is an immense time sink.
 
I am going to guess about your experience and skill level.  For what you wish to do,  You might consider treating yourself to a high quality but low tech and old school tool.
A fret saw -
 
  Knew is expensive,  but the joy of using a well made precision tool is .... especially when a laser is the alternative.
 
Also a proper support surface -  the picture is for the general shape  - this is an easy enough DIY using a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" AA or Birch plywood.
 

 
If you do much of this, you will come to know if you need an electric scroll saw or a 1/8" blade on a benchtop bandsaw.

This just put me in mind of an alternative.
If you have more money than time:
 
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Palm-Size Belt Sander  - will eat wood fairly fast.  mine wants to throw the belt immediately - I hold a square of wood on the side of the housing that overlaps the belt which keeps the belt at home.
 
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Heavy-Duty Right Angle Disk Sander / Drill
with
3-Jaw Keyless Chuck, 1/64 Inch - 1/8 Inch Capacity
There are a number of available disk attachments 1" / 2" / 3" diameter with 1/8" shanks
 
These are DC machines and require a proprietary transformer power source.  The manufacturer seems to be a German company Kaleas.
MM appears to be the US agent..
Now, if they would also make a 45 degree Angle Disk Sander, - for contour sanding inside a hull.

Needle files are a bit small for what you need.  You could take a look at luthier tool suppliers - they have medium range files with a range of bite.  StewMac  is not economy but you can get a lay of the land as far as some possibilities for what is available.  A lesion  that I can't seem to learn - when filing - apply downward force directly above the surface being cut.  Applying it between the hold point and the cut point tends to make a small file into two pieces - even the expensive Swiss ones.
 
That Basswood is going to fight you all the way.  The fibers are going to want to roll.  You might consider starting over with Yellow Poplar.  It is easy to cut. but holds a sharp edge.  It is also about the least expensive hardwood and  10/4 and even 12/4 lumber is available.

I am not going to look at the units involved, but I guess that it is force per square inch or something similar.  For most of a ship model joinery the surface area involved is pretty small.  So that reduces the bond exceeding force when the equation is applied to the individual situation.

This just put me in mind of an alternative.
If you have more money than time:
 
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Palm-Size Belt Sander  - will eat wood fairly fast.  mine wants to throw the belt immediately - I hold a square of wood on the side of the housing that overlaps the belt which keeps the belt at home.
 
Micro-Make™ / MicroLux® Heavy-Duty Right Angle Disk Sander / Drill
with
3-Jaw Keyless Chuck, 1/64 Inch - 1/8 Inch Capacity
There are a number of available disk attachments 1" / 2" / 3" diameter with 1/8" shanks
 
These are DC machines and require a proprietary transformer power source.  The manufacturer seems to be a German company Kaleas.
MM appears to be the US agent..
Now, if they would also make a 45 degree Angle Disk Sander, - for contour sanding inside a hull.

Needle files are a bit small for what you need.  You could take a look at luthier tool suppliers - they have medium range files with a range of bite.  StewMac  is not economy but you can get a lay of the land as far as some possibilities for what is available.  A lesion  that I can't seem to learn - when filing - apply downward force directly above the surface being cut.  Applying it between the hold point and the cut point tends to make a small file into two pieces - even the expensive Swiss ones.
 
That Basswood is going to fight you all the way.  The fibers are going to want to roll.  You might consider starting over with Yellow Poplar.  It is easy to cut. but holds a sharp edge.  It is also about the least expensive hardwood and  10/4 and even 12/4 lumber is available.