Jaager
-
Posts
3,084 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Jaager got a reaction from bruce d in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Wacom in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from bruce d in Thickness Sander questions
The top support is way over engineered. Cutting a hole for the Vac intake will involve a lot of work. The back vertical face will want a piece of material - cardboard will do - that comes down for a distance of about to the middle of the drum - to make an enclosure for the drum thrown wood flour. The volume of dust generated by a drum sander needs to be seen to be believed. Because of my thickness sander as well as my drum sander table, I had a supply of N-95 masks when this current disaster washed over us.
A shop vac (serious volume) and an inline cyclone trap ( a serious sanding session will fill a 16 gal vac container in less time than would be expected as well as filling a vac filter in an all too short time).
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Thickness Sander questions
The top support is way over engineered. Cutting a hole for the Vac intake will involve a lot of work. The back vertical face will want a piece of material - cardboard will do - that comes down for a distance of about to the middle of the drum - to make an enclosure for the drum thrown wood flour. The volume of dust generated by a drum sander needs to be seen to be believed. Because of my thickness sander as well as my drum sander table, I had a supply of N-95 masks when this current disaster washed over us.
A shop vac (serious volume) and an inline cyclone trap ( a serious sanding session will fill a 16 gal vac container in less time than would be expected as well as filling a vac filter in an all too short time).
-
Jaager got a reaction from Ron Burns in Thickness Sander questions
The top support is way over engineered. Cutting a hole for the Vac intake will involve a lot of work. The back vertical face will want a piece of material - cardboard will do - that comes down for a distance of about to the middle of the drum - to make an enclosure for the drum thrown wood flour. The volume of dust generated by a drum sander needs to be seen to be believed. Because of my thickness sander as well as my drum sander table, I had a supply of N-95 masks when this current disaster washed over us.
A shop vac (serious volume) and an inline cyclone trap ( a serious sanding session will fill a 16 gal vac container in less time than would be expected as well as filling a vac filter in an all too short time).
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Thickness Sander questions
The top support is way over engineered. Cutting a hole for the Vac intake will involve a lot of work. The back vertical face will want a piece of material - cardboard will do - that comes down for a distance of about to the middle of the drum - to make an enclosure for the drum thrown wood flour. The volume of dust generated by a drum sander needs to be seen to be believed. Because of my thickness sander as well as my drum sander table, I had a supply of N-95 masks when this current disaster washed over us.
A shop vac (serious volume) and an inline cyclone trap ( a serious sanding session will fill a 16 gal vac container in less time than would be expected as well as filling a vac filter in an all too short time).
-
Jaager got a reaction from HakeZou in Is there an ideal relative humidity for working with wood?
I have no definitive answers, just some thoughts:
Your finished product will "live" in what ever is the relative humidity of your interior environment.
A humidifier can be added to your HVAC system. This will involve incurring added expense, attention, and maintenance. It also involves constant isolation of your interior environment. But you pays your money and takes your chances with this sort of choice.
I suggest that it is better to assemble in the same conditions as those of the finished object.
I would be more concerned about the transported finished models and how they fare when they equilibrate with lower humidity.
My suggestion is to step back to a wider focus and work with species of wood that are less brittle and more appropriate to begin with. This does involve having to become, at the bare minimum, a magnitude more involved in what your shop will need. Appropriate species are not easily obtained.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Ron Burns in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Thickness Sander questions
1700 rpm is about the max for any of this sort of sanding machine. I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall. Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander. I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration.
-
Jaager got a reaction from J11 in foolish newbee
A first rate ship of the line was a significant undertaking for any government of the time. A model of one involves similar effort on the part of an individual.
Should you begin to feel overwhelmed or discouraged give some thought to leaving the project on the ways and switching to a much smaller vessel - not smaller in the actual model size - rather a smaller vessel at a larger scale. When the basics become a familiar skill, the first rate will seem to present a more shallow slope.
-
Jaager got a reaction from trippwj in Reference book on 18th Century sailing vessels
Given the source of your posted link, it would serve you to read some of the posts here concerning pirated model kits and the sites that promote this practice - as short sighted and self defeating as pirating is.
Understand that such a stand requires a want of moral and ethical integrity. That lack of ethics is a broad based one and not limited to just pirating. Be careful of anything that involves trust and always CYA there.
I took your original inquiry for a single reference to be a literal and sincere request and came as close to matching it I could. As you are now beginning a sweeping arc on this subject, some time spent chasing the numerous posts here about the volumes available on this subject. The reality of it is that it takes a library to cover the subject. There was a blooming of available references in the 70's-90's. Most of those volumes are out of print or rapidly approaching that status. The years have taught me to view new books as skeet. Your window of opportunity to acquire them is often fleeting.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Mark P in Reference book on 18th Century sailing vessels
Given the source of your posted link, it would serve you to read some of the posts here concerning pirated model kits and the sites that promote this practice - as short sighted and self defeating as pirating is.
Understand that such a stand requires a want of moral and ethical integrity. That lack of ethics is a broad based one and not limited to just pirating. Be careful of anything that involves trust and always CYA there.
I took your original inquiry for a single reference to be a literal and sincere request and came as close to matching it I could. As you are now beginning a sweeping arc on this subject, some time spent chasing the numerous posts here about the volumes available on this subject. The reality of it is that it takes a library to cover the subject. There was a blooming of available references in the 70's-90's. Most of those volumes are out of print or rapidly approaching that status. The years have taught me to view new books as skeet. Your window of opportunity to acquire them is often fleeting.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Reference book on 18th Century sailing vessels
Given the source of your posted link, it would serve you to read some of the posts here concerning pirated model kits and the sites that promote this practice - as short sighted and self defeating as pirating is.
Understand that such a stand requires a want of moral and ethical integrity. That lack of ethics is a broad based one and not limited to just pirating. Be careful of anything that involves trust and always CYA there.
I took your original inquiry for a single reference to be a literal and sincere request and came as close to matching it I could. As you are now beginning a sweeping arc on this subject, some time spent chasing the numerous posts here about the volumes available on this subject. The reality of it is that it takes a library to cover the subject. There was a blooming of available references in the 70's-90's. Most of those volumes are out of print or rapidly approaching that status. The years have taught me to view new books as skeet. Your window of opportunity to acquire them is often fleeting.
-
Jaager got a reaction from RichardG in Reference book on 18th Century sailing vessels
Given the source of your posted link, it would serve you to read some of the posts here concerning pirated model kits and the sites that promote this practice - as short sighted and self defeating as pirating is.
Understand that such a stand requires a want of moral and ethical integrity. That lack of ethics is a broad based one and not limited to just pirating. Be careful of anything that involves trust and always CYA there.
I took your original inquiry for a single reference to be a literal and sincere request and came as close to matching it I could. As you are now beginning a sweeping arc on this subject, some time spent chasing the numerous posts here about the volumes available on this subject. The reality of it is that it takes a library to cover the subject. There was a blooming of available references in the 70's-90's. Most of those volumes are out of print or rapidly approaching that status. The years have taught me to view new books as skeet. Your window of opportunity to acquire them is often fleeting.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Is there an ideal relative humidity for working with wood?
I have no definitive answers, just some thoughts:
Your finished product will "live" in what ever is the relative humidity of your interior environment.
A humidifier can be added to your HVAC system. This will involve incurring added expense, attention, and maintenance. It also involves constant isolation of your interior environment. But you pays your money and takes your chances with this sort of choice.
I suggest that it is better to assemble in the same conditions as those of the finished object.
I would be more concerned about the transported finished models and how they fare when they equilibrate with lower humidity.
My suggestion is to step back to a wider focus and work with species of wood that are less brittle and more appropriate to begin with. This does involve having to become, at the bare minimum, a magnitude more involved in what your shop will need. Appropriate species are not easily obtained.
-
Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in What to seal filler with before final planking - <Moved by moderator to proper forum area
I am a total outsider - just observing as far as POB for method, but is not the second (surface) layer of planking not in in essence a filler for the first layer?
What practical purpose does filling the cracks in the first layer with putty serve?
If the moulds are so widely placed that the first layer requires hollows to be filled so as to get a smooth sweet running surface for the outside planking,
significant hollows = scab a thin layer of wood veneer using PVA.
minor dips = an easily sanded, porous material with a PVA strength binding agent.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in What to seal filler with before final planking - <Moved by moderator to proper forum area
I am a total outsider - just observing as far as POB for method, but is not the second (surface) layer of planking not in in essence a filler for the first layer?
What practical purpose does filling the cracks in the first layer with putty serve?
If the moulds are so widely placed that the first layer requires hollows to be filled so as to get a smooth sweet running surface for the outside planking,
significant hollows = scab a thin layer of wood veneer using PVA.
minor dips = an easily sanded, porous material with a PVA strength binding agent.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Reference book on 18th Century sailing vessels
The ships of 1701 were only superficially related to those of 1800. Although, unlike what happened over the next 100 years, the basic technology as far as building materials and propulsive technology was pretty much the same, there was a significant evolution over that 100 year span. If you have to cut it to an unrealistic bare bones, I suggest the following will cover the the subject in a broad manner:
SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
by Allan Yedlinsky
THE 74 GUN SHIP Practical Treatise of Naval Art 1780
by Jean Boudriot - all 4 volumes.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in What to seal filler with before final planking - <Moved by moderator to proper forum area
I am a total outsider - just observing as far as POB for method, but is not the second (surface) layer of planking not in in essence a filler for the first layer?
What practical purpose does filling the cracks in the first layer with putty serve?
If the moulds are so widely placed that the first layer requires hollows to be filled so as to get a smooth sweet running surface for the outside planking,
significant hollows = scab a thin layer of wood veneer using PVA.
minor dips = an easily sanded, porous material with a PVA strength binding agent.
-
Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Reference book on 18th Century sailing vessels
The ships of 1701 were only superficially related to those of 1800. Although, unlike what happened over the next 100 years, the basic technology as far as building materials and propulsive technology was pretty much the same, there was a significant evolution over that 100 year span. If you have to cut it to an unrealistic bare bones, I suggest the following will cover the the subject in a broad manner:
SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
by Allan Yedlinsky
THE 74 GUN SHIP Practical Treatise of Naval Art 1780
by Jean Boudriot - all 4 volumes.
-
Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Is there an ideal relative humidity for working with wood?
I have no definitive answers, just some thoughts:
Your finished product will "live" in what ever is the relative humidity of your interior environment.
A humidifier can be added to your HVAC system. This will involve incurring added expense, attention, and maintenance. It also involves constant isolation of your interior environment. But you pays your money and takes your chances with this sort of choice.
I suggest that it is better to assemble in the same conditions as those of the finished object.
I would be more concerned about the transported finished models and how they fare when they equilibrate with lower humidity.
My suggestion is to step back to a wider focus and work with species of wood that are less brittle and more appropriate to begin with. This does involve having to become, at the bare minimum, a magnitude more involved in what your shop will need. Appropriate species are not easily obtained.
Our Emblem ®
