Jaager

Thanks! That certainly makes it perfectly clear.   I was in chemistry class in 1967, too. Unfortunately, I failed to apply myself the the study of that subject any more than was necessary to achieve a "gentleman's C."  I had a bad habit of only studying the subjects in which I had a current interest during my college years and every so often in my later life I've been reminded of the costs of that. I had no appreciation for trigonometry until I had to teach myself celestial navigation, for example!

As a game of speculation - not the result of experimental testing:
1- acrylic paint will leave a smooth surface with few or no pores or irregularities.  In the situation of wood-acrylic-PVA-wood, The strength of the bond of the acrylic with wood is one limiting factor.  The bond of the PVA with acrylic will probably have very little of a physical component.  I see the chains as a flat layer across the face of the paint.  The bond will be a weak electrostatic one instead of the usual mechanical one.  The large size of the chains probably makes for a wavy, knotty, interface on a microscopic level.  The electrostatic bond is likely significantly weaker than that formed by the type of glue that uses electrostatic attraction for a bonding mechanism.  The fix is to seriously abrade or scrape the acrylic at the bond interface.
2- paper   -   is porous.  This situation of wood-PVA-paper-PVA-wood,  The weakest point is paper-paper.  Depending on the type of paper used, the PVA may penetrate enough that there is a PVA-PVA bond inside the paper.  I would not risk my life on the strength of that bond, but if may be close (or at least closer) to a normal PVA bond. 
 
The hint:  I see this as two techniques for simulating caulking in a laid deck. 
Gloves off!
The bond between planks on a model deck does not need to be strong.  The needed strength is at the deck to beam ( and if your OCD is off the scale - the carlings, ledges, edges of hanging knees and face of lodging knees).  My perspective is scratch and POF,  so for me plywood is for tool bases and housing.
Using paint to simulate the caulking - a really bad idea.
Most models - to my eye - place way too much emphasis on the caulking seams.  Even exactly replicating the scale width is probably too much because of scale effect.
The modern "repairs"  done on the decks of saved vessels such as USS Constitution and HMS Trincomalee  look like cartoons of what was done 200 years ago.  Perhaps if the deck was originally laid in the tropics in the Summer and it was sailed to the North polar region in Winter and allows to dry and shrink, the seams might be that wide.  As it is, I suspect it is a combination of lesser carpentry skills and giving the customer what he expects to see.
Paper is a time tested method suggested in at least one of the original core texts for our hobby.  Depending on scale, the paper might be over doing it.  Using black paper is the wrong color for pre-1860.
Consider adding Black Walnut dye crystals to some PVA instead.  It is closer to Pine tar in color.  The bulk can be used to dye rigging - intense for standing and dilute for running rigging.

Bob,
To poke at this a bit.  !967 was a long time ago, but seeing if I can remember=
By denatured,  it would be ethanol.  Two carbons and an -OH.  Carbon holds its H's more tightly than oxygen, so the H bonded to the carbons can be ignored.  There is possible partial ionization of the H from the oxygen - which has an effect of polarity - and affinity for the polyvinyl acetate matrix. and its ability the fit between the chains.
 
Propanol  is three carbons in a chain with an -OH  on an end one.  I am guessing that whatever the effect of a two carbon chain on H polarity would be greater from a 3 carbon chain.
 
2-propanol (isopropyl alcohol) is also 3 carbons, but the -OH is on the middle carbon.  The outside two carbons might - flap like wings - and have the opposite effect on the H polarity because the the electron clouds are working against each other rather than being a reinforcing chain.   The shape is more like a ball?  It must be able to get inside the space between the chains and straighten them out, or weaken the attraction between the chains.  
 
 

If the deck is Basswood, a stain rather than a dye would be suitable.  But,  placing aside the inappropriate original red species on a working vessel -  (perhaps it is supposed to be a showboat luxury yacht. for which it would be OK)  -  as a model -  the red should be a hint in its intensity  -  that is -  dilute the stain - a lot - before applying it.  Make it sort of red, rather than bop your nose red.
 
 

Yes.   For the reasons stated in my editorial, I think shellac the better choice - but half strength for the first coat.   But, since I bend towards a belt and suspenders when it is important.  I would first paint the surface with water and sand again after it dries and then use the shellac.  Use a plastic pot scrubber pad on the dried shellac and tack rag before the paint.

Wood fibers swelling upon the first exposure to water is a factor when using penetrating aqueous (water based) aniline dye also.
The fix is to treat the wood to a prior exposure to water alone, let the surface dry, then sand or scrape the swollen fibers smooth.
It works even better when the water treatment is a ~10% solution of PVA (1 part glue, 9 parts water).  This locks the wood fibers.
1000 grit may be over kill - depending on your scale - and era.  If 1:96 or larger and pre - 1860 - 220 grit - 320 grit may be fine enough.
Grit finer than 320 is aimed at use on metals and plastic - and perhaps to buff a final clear coat.
 
Since your wood is a species of Walnut and there is a problem with open pores, a sanding sealer may be appropriate.  The problem with
Sand & Seal type products here in North America is that they are aimed at use on full size furniture made with open pore species like
Oak, Ash, Hickory, Walnut.  It is thick and it fills the often large pores.  This produces a smooth surface for clear finishes that follow it. 
It adds a noticeable layer to the surface.  This is not a desired factor at model scales.  The solution is to use closed pore, tight grained species of wood.
These do not need to be sealed.  Primers such as 50% cut shellac do an excellent job without adding a significant thickness on the surface
 

The core material is the same.  The yellow PVA has additives that increase resistance to water. The additives have an amber tint.
The pattern for the range of PVA products includes:
bookbinders PVA - white - dries clear - pH 7 - neutral
Elmer's Glue All - white -                        pH 5
Weldbond - white -  water resistant - pH 4.5-5
Titebond - lt. yellow - not water resistant - pH 4
Titebond II - yellow -  water resistant  - pH 3
Titebond III - lt, brown - waterproof -  pH 2.5   - not for continuous immersion -  Resorcinol or newer tech
 
From a practical point on the scale,  for our purposes - except for bookbinders PVA (for rigging and paper) - the wood will probably fail before the bonds formed using any of them do.  Any differences are a tempest in a teapot.

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

If the deck is Basswood, a stain rather than a dye would be suitable.  But,  placing aside the inappropriate original red species on a working vessel -  (perhaps it is supposed to be a showboat luxury yacht. for which it would be OK)  -  as a model -  the red should be a hint in its intensity  -  that is -  dilute the stain - a lot - before applying it.  Make it sort of red, rather than bop your nose red.
 
 

The core material is the same.  The yellow PVA has additives that increase resistance to water. The additives have an amber tint.
The pattern for the range of PVA products includes:
bookbinders PVA - white - dries clear - pH 7 - neutral
Elmer's Glue All - white -                        pH 5
Weldbond - white -  water resistant - pH 4.5-5
Titebond - lt. yellow - not water resistant - pH 4
Titebond II - yellow -  water resistant  - pH 3
Titebond III - lt, brown - waterproof -  pH 2.5   - not for continuous immersion -  Resorcinol or newer tech
 
From a practical point on the scale,  for our purposes - except for bookbinders PVA (for rigging and paper) - the wood will probably fail before the bonds formed using any of them do.  Any differences are a tempest in a teapot.

My link:
https://www.aamm.fr/index.php/boutique/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65&language=en&sort=20a&page=6
 
It used to go to the monographs , but now, the main page,  so    Boutique   and then   Monographies   it has an English translation option.

Just big enough to slip a hand through. Some rings were round, others triangular. Not a 'dumb question' at all!

Bob,
To poke at this a bit.  !967 was a long time ago, but seeing if I can remember=
By denatured,  it would be ethanol.  Two carbons and an -OH.  Carbon holds its H's more tightly than oxygen, so the H bonded to the carbons can be ignored.  There is possible partial ionization of the H from the oxygen - which has an effect of polarity - and affinity for the polyvinyl acetate matrix. and its ability the fit between the chains.
 
Propanol  is three carbons in a chain with an -OH  on an end one.  I am guessing that whatever the effect of a two carbon chain on H polarity would be greater from a 3 carbon chain.
 
2-propanol (isopropyl alcohol) is also 3 carbons, but the -OH is on the middle carbon.  The outside two carbons might - flap like wings - and have the opposite effect on the H polarity because the the electron clouds are working against each other rather than being a reinforcing chain.   The shape is more like a ball?  It must be able to get inside the space between the chains and straighten them out, or weaken the attraction between the chains.  
 
 

Yes.   For the reasons stated in my editorial, I think shellac the better choice - but half strength for the first coat.   But, since I bend towards a belt and suspenders when it is important.  I would first paint the surface with water and sand again after it dries and then use the shellac.  Use a plastic pot scrubber pad on the dried shellac and tack rag before the paint.

Wood fibers swelling upon the first exposure to water is a factor when using penetrating aqueous (water based) aniline dye also.
The fix is to treat the wood to a prior exposure to water alone, let the surface dry, then sand or scrape the swollen fibers smooth.
It works even better when the water treatment is a ~10% solution of PVA (1 part glue, 9 parts water).  This locks the wood fibers.
1000 grit may be over kill - depending on your scale - and era.  If 1:96 or larger and pre - 1860 - 220 grit - 320 grit may be fine enough.
Grit finer than 320 is aimed at use on metals and plastic - and perhaps to buff a final clear coat.
 
Since your wood is a species of Walnut and there is a problem with open pores, a sanding sealer may be appropriate.  The problem with
Sand & Seal type products here in North America is that they are aimed at use on full size furniture made with open pore species like
Oak, Ash, Hickory, Walnut.  It is thick and it fills the often large pores.  This produces a smooth surface for clear finishes that follow it. 
It adds a noticeable layer to the surface.  This is not a desired factor at model scales.  The solution is to use closed pore, tight grained species of wood.
These do not need to be sealed.  Primers such as 50% cut shellac do an excellent job without adding a significant thickness on the surface
 

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

Aliphatic -  I will take to mean yellow PVA -  PVA with additives to add resistance to temporary exposure to water. e.g. Titebond II
 
The bond is formed thru a chemical reaction.  When in the water solvent and in a bottle with minimal air - it stays short chains. 
Spread it in a thin layer on a porous surface and expose to to oxygen = the short chains bond to each other and form much longer chains.
These chains invade the porous surface and twist around each other.  They do not chemically react with cellulose or lignin ( as far as I know ).
The hold is a physical one.  The chains completely fill the holes and grooves in the wood.
I have not read of Tris type components, so I do not know if 3 arm components are a part of this.  I suspect that it is single, long chains that are formed.
The result is a plastic that holds together and holds to the wood surface with more strength than lignin holds wood fiber together.
Pry the bond apart and the wood tears from itself before the plastic chains will pull apart from the wood.  A thick piece of just the polymerized PVA is clear, amber, flexible, and can be torn apart.
 
This encompasses some factors as far as use with wood:
A) A rougher bare wood surface yields a stronger bond.  ~ 100/150 grit is probably optimal - although I am wed to 220 grit, that is about as fine as should be sanded.
B ) The closer the two bonding surfaces, the stronger is the bond between them.  Increased clamping force produces a stronger bond. 
At a microscopic level, the irregularity of the wood surface makes it impossible to force out enough PVA to weaken the bond. 
It is definitely possible, indeed, is a limiting factor, to apply enough force to crush, to damage the outer face of the wood being clamped.
 
I do not recall ever seeing the actual chemical reaction that forms polyvinyl acetate written out.  Polymer chemistry was not much of a part of my Organic Chemistry class.
 
addition:  thinking about the reaction - there is acetic acid in the mixture.  Although it is an organic acid, thus has a lower maximum possible hydrogen ion concentration (higher pH max) the effect of drying from the thin layer must increase the acidity.  Perhaps it is the combination of oxygen and a more acid environment that accelerates the linking reaction.

I go for option #4.    But rotate the pattern ~45 degrees.   Get angled cross grain in both arms.

I go for option #4.    But rotate the pattern ~45 degrees.   Get angled cross grain in both arms.

If you are determined to use curved grain, you could follow Davis and collect downed branches from useful species of trees after a wind storm = natural in scale curved stock.
A sure source of the proper species would be a nearby fruit orchard.  If they brush pile instead of immediately chipping, there will be already seasoned stock.  Just mind the critters inhabiting the brush.
If they let you get green trimmings from a tree, there is the drying /seasoning step.
The urban ornamental Pear trees here have excellent wood for our uses, but the branching is too acute for knees. 
Lumber with large knots - the wood around the branch is often the desired arc. 
 
For one ship, a fretsaw and hand plane will get you there -

Excuse what may be my mania speaking,  but would a Kickstarter type project, to translate into current English and combine all of the known builder's contracts - up to Steele - or at least up to 1719 - into a single document - PDF would do - be a possible (practical) thing?