Jaager

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

Which component is this intended to be used for?
It is too thin for frame timbers  - except for miniature scales.  In which case - not safe even if flattened.
Deck planks - not safe.
By not safe - what I mean is that the wood is showing where it wants to go.  Even if you flatten it, it will "want" to go back to this shape.
Hull planking - already a good start for conforming to frame contours  - it may prove to be  a challenge to rip if it can't be pushed flat as is.
 
If you still wish to flatten, rather than a water soak, try steam.  A steam iron or hand steam generator clearer and a lot of weight.

Which component is this intended to be used for?
It is too thin for frame timbers  - except for miniature scales.  In which case - not safe even if flattened.
Deck planks - not safe.
By not safe - what I mean is that the wood is showing where it wants to go.  Even if you flatten it, it will "want" to go back to this shape.
Hull planking - already a good start for conforming to frame contours  - it may prove to be  a challenge to rip if it can't be pushed flat as is.
 
If you still wish to flatten, rather than a water soak, try steam.  A steam iron or hand steam generator clearer and a lot of weight.

Kevin,
No matter how much jest is involved,  unless you have access to a mansion sized building, either realization is a bit overwhelming.
The Cutty Sark would be easier, but larger.  At 1:48 a masted model is for all intents 6 feet long and about that tall.  The Saint-Philippe is about 6 inches shorter.  I have lofted Philippe at 1:120 and played with the framing.  The hull is about the size of a brig: USS Porpoise at 1:60.  Having second thoughts about doing a miniature, I looked at redoing the timbers at 1:60 using Navy Board style framing.  I hit breaks real fast when it demonstrated that the mid ship floor timber is too large to be had from a 2 inch wide piece of stock.  And the mid ship floor is the straightest, least carnivorous floor.   A POF at 1:36 ----  a Baby Huey that needs lots and lots of lumber to frame.  Framing at 1:48 would put a serious hurt on a 50 bf lumber stock.
If you were just married when you started these two, you would possibly be paying for your kid's college when you finished.
 
The Saint-Philippe is a late 17th century first rate with magnificent excess in its decoration.  It could easily stand as a magnificent magnum opus for any modeler.

There are some available directly from Chinese vendors at Aliexpress.  The shipping can be reasonable if you are willing to wait for the mule train to walk across the the bottom of the Pacific.
Years ago, I bought one from MM and fixed it to the base of my EuroTool DRL 300 drill press.  Needed a couple of holes drilled in the base.  Does what it is supposed to do.

Kurt,
This is suggesting a course that I do not take - too compulsive - too much a pack rat =
Wait until you get to the point in a build where a specific cut is needed and get that size.
 
Unless one of our more widely ranging members points to a superior vendor,  I default to Wood Carvers Supply.

Kurt,
This is suggesting a course that I do not take - too compulsive - too much a pack rat =
Wait until you get to the point in a build where a specific cut is needed and get that size.
 
Unless one of our more widely ranging members points to a superior vendor,  I default to Wood Carvers Supply.

The 1992 article is on a CD for sale on the NRG store page.

Kurt,
This is suggesting a course that I do not take - too compulsive - too much a pack rat =
Wait until you get to the point in a build where a specific cut is needed and get that size.
 
Unless one of our more widely ranging members points to a superior vendor,  I default to Wood Carvers Supply.

The 1992 article is on a CD for sale on the NRG store page.

This has drifted a bit.   For where this is now,  I add the following:
at minimum a 1/3 HP TEFC motor  with a final sanding drum rotation of 1700 rpm
If more than a few passes are contemplated per session,  as much air circulation around the motor as can be had.

A complete guess here:
POB,  kit,  subject that is probably one of the three most overdone  :  Victory,  SOS,  Constitution
 
Probably the same as the original kit.
 
I costed out the price of a finished model, if I based it on the $60/hr I was getting from my day job a decade ago  - a billionaire would not pay that much.  On a return per time expended, this is a charitable exercise at best.

This has drifted a bit.   For where this is now,  I add the following:
at minimum a 1/3 HP TEFC motor  with a final sanding drum rotation of 1700 rpm
If more than a few passes are contemplated per session,  as much air circulation around the motor as can be had.

Black Cherry is useful for most everything.  The color would be a bit eccentric for spars and deck planking.  But frames timbers, beams, hull planking, bits,  a lot of antebellum merchantmen seemed to have clear finish Spanish Mahogany for hatch coming and similar trim and when oxidized - time - Black Cherry is an excellent miniature replication.   If you have Sweet Cherry,  the color is a lot less red, but the grain is about the same.
 
Now milling from logs is a different thing.  To reduce checking and splits during the drying process,  it is imperative that the cut ends and branch cuts be sealed.  The last thing I used for this is left over latex enamel paint and used paper towels to glob on a thick coat.  Anything liquid, which when dry blocks water.
3 inch logs on a 9" band saw - too thick - both for clearance and motor power.  Find a local wood workers club and team up with someone with a larger band saw.  Buy your own blade to fit his saw.  Get a bimetal blade - initial cost is higher - all steel blades dull quickly and break when pushed when dull.
 
You need two perpendicular cuts.  A log wants to roll.  A 1/2" thick board - edge against the fence - riding on the table - Use right angle framing braces and long #10 or so screws to fix the log to this 1/2" carrier.  After the first cut, the cut face goes on the board - After the second cut, the carrier is no longer needed.  
I do 1:60 scale POF - 2 inch thick billets are working well foe me now.  At least 2 years drying time for this.

For the Unimat SL,  which has a relatively short bed for masts,  a denken experiment that uses the steady rest holding a ball bearing race  - the OD just fitting the steady rest opening and ID in various sizes - close to the spar diameter - cardboard to fix and brace the wood. The end over end to shape the other end.

It is my experience that there is not much on a ship model that requires a lathe.  Most of that (spars) can be accomplished using an electric drill in a shop made clamp.  The one part that would be difficult to fake - turning up 100 cannon - a lathe and pattern duplicator helps here.
The one function that requires a lathe is turning metal to fabricate your own tools.  A machinists lathe is essentially a tool to make tools.
 
A mill is a bit more useful, but it too is a machine to make tools.  It can act as an expensive drill press and allow you to bull thru wood with milling cut - not wise, probably messy.  You can also avoid the expense and get a jewelers generic drill press and a Chinese XY table all for less than $200.  The bearings are not designed for lateral stress, but with wood, sharp cutters and light cuts...
 
Right now, we have the great good luck in the presence of Jim Byrnes.  The tool functions that you would find practically useful in a multi tool, he provides as single purpose machines that are about a hundred times better. 
 
It you are still determined - visit Little Machine Shop  for bench top mills and lathes

I have a Unimat SL  -  It is now relegated to just the lathe function.  I burned out a motor using it as a table saw.  Everything but the lathe is better done by a single purpose machine.  This even though it is a precise and well made unit.
Unimat I is neither precise nor well made.  It is a toy.  Buy it and feel the sentiment behind the message yelled at generations of army recruits:  you'll be sorrrreeee.

Black Cherry is useful for most everything.  The color would be a bit eccentric for spars and deck planking.  But frames timbers, beams, hull planking, bits,  a lot of antebellum merchantmen seemed to have clear finish Spanish Mahogany for hatch coming and similar trim and when oxidized - time - Black Cherry is an excellent miniature replication.   If you have Sweet Cherry,  the color is a lot less red, but the grain is about the same.
 
Now milling from logs is a different thing.  To reduce checking and splits during the drying process,  it is imperative that the cut ends and branch cuts be sealed.  The last thing I used for this is left over latex enamel paint and used paper towels to glob on a thick coat.  Anything liquid, which when dry blocks water.
3 inch logs on a 9" band saw - too thick - both for clearance and motor power.  Find a local wood workers club and team up with someone with a larger band saw.  Buy your own blade to fit his saw.  Get a bimetal blade - initial cost is higher - all steel blades dull quickly and break when pushed when dull.
 
You need two perpendicular cuts.  A log wants to roll.  A 1/2" thick board - edge against the fence - riding on the table - Use right angle framing braces and long #10 or so screws to fix the log to this 1/2" carrier.  After the first cut, the cut face goes on the board - After the second cut, the carrier is no longer needed.  
I do 1:60 scale POF - 2 inch thick billets are working well foe me now.  At least 2 years drying time for this.

For the Unimat SL,  which has a relatively short bed for masts,  a denken experiment that uses the steady rest holding a ball bearing race  - the OD just fitting the steady rest opening and ID in various sizes - close to the spar diameter - cardboard to fix and brace the wood. The end over end to shape the other end.

For the Unimat SL,  which has a relatively short bed for masts,  a denken experiment that uses the steady rest holding a ball bearing race  - the OD just fitting the steady rest opening and ID in various sizes - close to the spar diameter - cardboard to fix and brace the wood. The end over end to shape the other end.

Black Cherry is useful for most everything.  The color would be a bit eccentric for spars and deck planking.  But frames timbers, beams, hull planking, bits,  a lot of antebellum merchantmen seemed to have clear finish Spanish Mahogany for hatch coming and similar trim and when oxidized - time - Black Cherry is an excellent miniature replication.   If you have Sweet Cherry,  the color is a lot less red, but the grain is about the same.
 
Now milling from logs is a different thing.  To reduce checking and splits during the drying process,  it is imperative that the cut ends and branch cuts be sealed.  The last thing I used for this is left over latex enamel paint and used paper towels to glob on a thick coat.  Anything liquid, which when dry blocks water.
3 inch logs on a 9" band saw - too thick - both for clearance and motor power.  Find a local wood workers club and team up with someone with a larger band saw.  Buy your own blade to fit his saw.  Get a bimetal blade - initial cost is higher - all steel blades dull quickly and break when pushed when dull.
 
You need two perpendicular cuts.  A log wants to roll.  A 1/2" thick board - edge against the fence - riding on the table - Use right angle framing braces and long #10 or so screws to fix the log to this 1/2" carrier.  After the first cut, the cut face goes on the board - After the second cut, the carrier is no longer needed.  
I do 1:60 scale POF - 2 inch thick billets are working well foe me now.  At least 2 years drying time for this.

Black Cherry is useful for most everything.  The color would be a bit eccentric for spars and deck planking.  But frames timbers, beams, hull planking, bits,  a lot of antebellum merchantmen seemed to have clear finish Spanish Mahogany for hatch coming and similar trim and when oxidized - time - Black Cherry is an excellent miniature replication.   If you have Sweet Cherry,  the color is a lot less red, but the grain is about the same.
 
Now milling from logs is a different thing.  To reduce checking and splits during the drying process,  it is imperative that the cut ends and branch cuts be sealed.  The last thing I used for this is left over latex enamel paint and used paper towels to glob on a thick coat.  Anything liquid, which when dry blocks water.
3 inch logs on a 9" band saw - too thick - both for clearance and motor power.  Find a local wood workers club and team up with someone with a larger band saw.  Buy your own blade to fit his saw.  Get a bimetal blade - initial cost is higher - all steel blades dull quickly and break when pushed when dull.
 
You need two perpendicular cuts.  A log wants to roll.  A 1/2" thick board - edge against the fence - riding on the table - Use right angle framing braces and long #10 or so screws to fix the log to this 1/2" carrier.  After the first cut, the cut face goes on the board - After the second cut, the carrier is no longer needed.  
I do 1:60 scale POF - 2 inch thick billets are working well foe me now.  At least 2 years drying time for this.

For the Unimat SL,  which has a relatively short bed for masts,  a denken experiment that uses the steady rest holding a ball bearing race  - the OD just fitting the steady rest opening and ID in various sizes - close to the spar diameter - cardboard to fix and brace the wood. The end over end to shape the other end.

It is my experience that there is not much on a ship model that requires a lathe.  Most of that (spars) can be accomplished using an electric drill in a shop made clamp.  The one part that would be difficult to fake - turning up 100 cannon - a lathe and pattern duplicator helps here.
The one function that requires a lathe is turning metal to fabricate your own tools.  A machinists lathe is essentially a tool to make tools.
 
A mill is a bit more useful, but it too is a machine to make tools.  It can act as an expensive drill press and allow you to bull thru wood with milling cut - not wise, probably messy.  You can also avoid the expense and get a jewelers generic drill press and a Chinese XY table all for less than $200.  The bearings are not designed for lateral stress, but with wood, sharp cutters and light cuts...
 
Right now, we have the great good luck in the presence of Jim Byrnes.  The tool functions that you would find practically useful in a multi tool, he provides as single purpose machines that are about a hundred times better. 
 
It you are still determined - visit Little Machine Shop  for bench top mills and lathes