Jaager

The fat from the beef is tallow.
Allergic to beef,  I discovered that some Mickey D add it to
the vegetable oil to flavor FF.  Never would have had a reason
to know about it otherwise.  I seem to recall from a school trip
to Colonial Williamsburg it was used for candles, but did not bother to 
know what it was.
 
Since you are likely to be inside your home and not
a dirt floor shed, you may wish to forego the animal fat and
try Mineral Oil from your pharmacy.  The spinning may spray
and a rancid streak on the wall behind your bench or ceiling
above may not be easily seen but still provide an unpleasant odor.
Sears used to sell quarts of light machine oil, can't find it now, so
I use MO instead.
 

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset.  Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like. 

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

Bruce,
It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock.  It does not get much better than Holly.  Fortune turned her smile onto you there.
 
I don't know what your building material is over there,  but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir.  It is not expensive as far as wood goes.  If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds.  Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight.  It can be a several lamination. 
If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular.  Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry.
Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds.
Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull.  One layer of planking is enough.  The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

MPJA  sells a power supply for $17  3-12 volt selection range.  Allows for a range of RPM.

I guess I must be missing something about double planking a series of POB moulds.
The outer layer is done in a way that covers whatever is under it?
Unless the hull is intended to actually float ( and POB is a poor choice for this) why bother with a filler for the first layer? It will not be seen anyway if longitudinal gaps between planks is what is being "fixed".  If the run has hollows, a wooden scab is probably a better fix.
 
Bruce,
Have you milled your Holly logs yet?  If you did not immediately get the logs into a kiln,  unless Blue Mold is restricted to this side of the Pond, it is likely to have invaded your lumber.  If so, the bad news is that the wood will not be white,  rather grey or light blue.  The good news, the integrity of the wood is not compromised.  It is just as hard, bends just as well - really an excellent species for our needs.  It accepts aniline dyes well.  The fungus does not affect that - except for the final shade..  I am thinking that infected Holly may yield a more realistic deck than a marquetry white stock.
 

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

I guess I must be missing something about double planking a series of POB moulds.
The outer layer is done in a way that covers whatever is under it?
Unless the hull is intended to actually float ( and POB is a poor choice for this) why bother with a filler for the first layer? It will not be seen anyway if longitudinal gaps between planks is what is being "fixed".  If the run has hollows, a wooden scab is probably a better fix.
 
Bruce,
Have you milled your Holly logs yet?  If you did not immediately get the logs into a kiln,  unless Blue Mold is restricted to this side of the Pond, it is likely to have invaded your lumber.  If so, the bad news is that the wood will not be white,  rather grey or light blue.  The good news, the integrity of the wood is not compromised.  It is just as hard, bends just as well - really an excellent species for our needs.  It accepts aniline dyes well.  The fungus does not affect that - except for the final shade..  I am thinking that infected Holly may yield a more realistic deck than a marquetry white stock.
 

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

I have one  I really really don't like it.     (Actually two - I inherited one from my father.)
My Jarmac is sort of pitiful too.
Neither is in the same galaxy as a Byrnes table saw.
Way under powered, your photo of the motor really brings that home.
Feels - cheesy, lots of play   - It needs fixing to a sturdy base.
The open back can be covered with a plate of cardboard or hardboard with a hole and connector for a shop vac hose
A spacer at each bottom corner between the bottom of the unit and a base may provide better air circulation.
The fence is long enough that a clamp might be fixed to the back to better lock the position - once you adjust it parallel to the blade. Gonna want to affirm that it is parallel with each movement.
The OEM gauge is not all that great.  There are 3rd party miter gauges - just not many that are cost effective. 
 
You can make a sliding table - definitely worth the effort.
With something like this:
STEELWORKS BOLTMASTER 11285 Flat Aluminium Bar, 1/8 x 1/2 x 36"
A tempered hardboard base
a top edge and bottom edge  piece of wood 1/2" by 1.5"  full width - to keep the slit base as a single unit.  A belt and suspenders level of attachment -   ( glue and screws/dowels ) = hardboard can debond from itself.
a piece of Pine perpendicular to the above outside the bottom support - to cover the blade as it comes thru. -to keep from crosscutting your fingers or hand.
 
I am not sure that the tilting blade feature is not a solution in search of a need.  Having to re tune the blade back to 90 degrees every time does make it more trouble than it is worth.
I advise against being too hopeful in how thick of a billet this saw can rip or crosscut.

Which component is this intended to be used for?
It is too thin for frame timbers  - except for miniature scales.  In which case - not safe even if flattened.
Deck planks - not safe.
By not safe - what I mean is that the wood is showing where it wants to go.  Even if you flatten it, it will "want" to go back to this shape.
Hull planking - already a good start for conforming to frame contours  - it may prove to be  a challenge to rip if it can't be pushed flat as is.
 
If you still wish to flatten, rather than a water soak, try steam.  A steam iron or hand steam generator clearer and a lot of weight.

Which component is this intended to be used for?
It is too thin for frame timbers  - except for miniature scales.  In which case - not safe even if flattened.
Deck planks - not safe.
By not safe - what I mean is that the wood is showing where it wants to go.  Even if you flatten it, it will "want" to go back to this shape.
Hull planking - already a good start for conforming to frame contours  - it may prove to be  a challenge to rip if it can't be pushed flat as is.
 
If you still wish to flatten, rather than a water soak, try steam.  A steam iron or hand steam generator clearer and a lot of weight.

Kevin,
No matter how much jest is involved,  unless you have access to a mansion sized building, either realization is a bit overwhelming.
The Cutty Sark would be easier, but larger.  At 1:48 a masted model is for all intents 6 feet long and about that tall.  The Saint-Philippe is about 6 inches shorter.  I have lofted Philippe at 1:120 and played with the framing.  The hull is about the size of a brig: USS Porpoise at 1:60.  Having second thoughts about doing a miniature, I looked at redoing the timbers at 1:60 using Navy Board style framing.  I hit breaks real fast when it demonstrated that the mid ship floor timber is too large to be had from a 2 inch wide piece of stock.  And the mid ship floor is the straightest, least carnivorous floor.   A POF at 1:36 ----  a Baby Huey that needs lots and lots of lumber to frame.  Framing at 1:48 would put a serious hurt on a 50 bf lumber stock.
If you were just married when you started these two, you would possibly be paying for your kid's college when you finished.
 
The Saint-Philippe is a late 17th century first rate with magnificent excess in its decoration.  It could easily stand as a magnificent magnum opus for any modeler.

There are some available directly from Chinese vendors at Aliexpress.  The shipping can be reasonable if you are willing to wait for the mule train to walk across the the bottom of the Pacific.
Years ago, I bought one from MM and fixed it to the base of my EuroTool DRL 300 drill press.  Needed a couple of holes drilled in the base.  Does what it is supposed to do.

Kurt,
This is suggesting a course that I do not take - too compulsive - too much a pack rat =
Wait until you get to the point in a build where a specific cut is needed and get that size.
 
Unless one of our more widely ranging members points to a superior vendor,  I default to Wood Carvers Supply.

Kurt,
This is suggesting a course that I do not take - too compulsive - too much a pack rat =
Wait until you get to the point in a build where a specific cut is needed and get that size.
 
Unless one of our more widely ranging members points to a superior vendor,  I default to Wood Carvers Supply.

The 1992 article is on a CD for sale on the NRG store page.

Kurt,
This is suggesting a course that I do not take - too compulsive - too much a pack rat =
Wait until you get to the point in a build where a specific cut is needed and get that size.
 
Unless one of our more widely ranging members points to a superior vendor,  I default to Wood Carvers Supply.

The 1992 article is on a CD for sale on the NRG store page.

This has drifted a bit.   For where this is now,  I add the following:
at minimum a 1/3 HP TEFC motor  with a final sanding drum rotation of 1700 rpm
If more than a few passes are contemplated per session,  as much air circulation around the motor as can be had.