Jaager

Sprue Brothers  has been a source:
 
https://spruebrothers.com/tools-supplies/tools-cutting/?page=1&mode=6

Sprue Brothers  has been a source:
 
https://spruebrothers.com/tools-supplies/tools-cutting/?page=1&mode=6

Sprue Brothers  has been a source:
 
https://spruebrothers.com/tools-supplies/tools-cutting/?page=1&mode=6

Zero data, but if a pin rail on a solid mount would solve the problem and I was determined to be economical and efficient, I would give a thought to placing a pin rail at the front of the deck house.

It has been t least a decade since I messed with it, but a 3D graphics render of a wood texture.   A flat rectangle would have a perfect map - no distortion from wrapping around a tube or sphere.  There should be excellent free textures or take your own photo of wood.   Print out the render - glue it to veneer or card stock - touch up with paint.   This as an alternative if you do not think that you can do your own de novo  wood texture just using artists oil pigments.
 

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

Toes?   In the context of worn out hemp, not a clue.
Is tow a noun for a line with that function?
 
 
Click the field of focus back a magnitude and:   would keratin fibers be a binder for tar?   Equine, bovine, or swine hooves are water proof?

The Ibex Luthier planes are carving planes.  The blades are convex.  Specifically for a bevel, would not a flat plane level the desired surface?
Now,  for a hull, one of these looks like it has excellent potential. 

I have the thought that with practice a high quality miniature block plane would produce a smooth and accurate bevel:

The Ibex Luthier planes are carving planes.  The blades are convex.  Specifically for a bevel, would not a flat plane level the desired surface?
Now,  for a hull, one of these looks like it has excellent potential. 

The Ibex Luthier planes are carving planes.  The blades are convex.  Specifically for a bevel, would not a flat plane level the desired surface?
Now,  for a hull, one of these looks like it has excellent potential. 

I have the thought that with practice a high quality miniature block plane would produce a smooth and accurate bevel:

I have the thought that with practice a high quality miniature block plane would produce a smooth and accurate bevel:

FM
They do not have logs as far as I know, but rather really fine books.  Examples of where to buy them are below, but you can find more with a quick search.
 
Ships in Miniature by Lloyd McCaffery, Ship Models in Miniature by Donald McNarry, Building a Miniature Navy Board Model by Philip Reed .  Used copies can be found on the net.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIPS-MINIATURE-Classic-Manual-Modelmakers/dp/0851774857
 
https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/ship-models-in-miniature_donald-mcnarry/809946/item/11675885/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pmax_high_vol_frontlist_under_%2410&utm_adgroup=&utm_term=&utm_content=&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w05wB-HnnCRai6e9CtxTveUJykqoZNyCqe5-ln8wsDXSZI03IEQOltxoC0xIQAvD_BwE#idiq=11675885&edition=3619299
 
https://www.abebooks.com/9781848320178/Building-Miniature-Navy-Board-Ship-1848320175/plp

When viewed from a wider focus,  this can be understood as being a message and a warning.  Parts that degrade in the box are really telling you that they are inappropriate to use - period.
Use them as templates.  Replicate them using materials that will last over time.

Experience with plastic is probably more of a negative than a help for a wooden kit.  The painting is a help, but for wooden sail vessels, painting a minor part.  The main negative is your expectation about what the instructions provide.  For a wooden hull,  especially the parts that you need specialized skills to master, most of it is common to most any vessel - especially with POB.  It is boring and redundant to redo the same for every kit.
 
The trap for a wooden kit is trying to start by building a vessel that is large enough to have a famous name.  The complexity can overwhelm.
The skill to build a boat is one that every larger vessel will have you doing.  They all have boats. 
You may not need to do step two or step three in the Shipwright series.  You will know when you finish the first one.
I can't help you with POB.  I was so repulsed by the first generation Italian kits that I walled them off.  Even with the now third generation POB kits - even the ones with enough molds and laser prepped stock, I can't get past how ugly and distant from a real hull the support skeleton is.

Experience with plastic is probably more of a negative than a help for a wooden kit.  The painting is a help, but for wooden sail vessels, painting a minor part.  The main negative is your expectation about what the instructions provide.  For a wooden hull,  especially the parts that you need specialized skills to master, most of it is common to most any vessel - especially with POB.  It is boring and redundant to redo the same for every kit.
 
The trap for a wooden kit is trying to start by building a vessel that is large enough to have a famous name.  The complexity can overwhelm.
The skill to build a boat is one that every larger vessel will have you doing.  They all have boats. 
You may not need to do step two or step three in the Shipwright series.  You will know when you finish the first one.
I can't help you with POB.  I was so repulsed by the first generation Italian kits that I walled them off.  Even with the now third generation POB kits - even the ones with enough molds and laser prepped stock, I can't get past how ugly and distant from a real hull the support skeleton is.

You should probably give yourself a fair chance with your first venture into wooden kits.  Right now, your best bet is to take a close look at Model Shipways  Shipwright beginner series.  There is an option to get some basic tools with the first one - if you do not already have the ones in the bundle.
 
If you have unlimited funds and  wish to accumulate tools just to have tools, go on a buying spree - most will probably just gather dust.  Otherwise,  when you get to a point where a tool looks like it could increase speed or efficiency  just get that - opt for quality in your choice.  If you also start your #2 plastic kit,  you can work on it while waiting for UPS.
 
About a Dremel -  The all in one models rotate too fast for shaping - it wants to skip to where you don't want it -and have no power if you slow it down enough not to burn wood.
30,000 RPM is just too fast for #61-80 drill bits.  

An additional step,  and if done after every few cuts,  can really delay a need to revisit the water stones is to strop on a medium like scrap leather charged with gold, green, or rouge compound.

An additional step,  and if done after every few cuts,  can really delay a need to revisit the water stones is to strop on a medium like scrap leather charged with gold, green, or rouge compound.

An additional step,  and if done after every few cuts,  can really delay a need to revisit the water stones is to strop on a medium like scrap leather charged with gold, green, or rouge compound.

An additional step,  and if done after every few cuts,  can really delay a need to revisit the water stones is to strop on a medium like scrap leather charged with gold, green, or rouge compound.

You should probably give yourself a fair chance with your first venture into wooden kits.  Right now, your best bet is to take a close look at Model Shipways  Shipwright beginner series.  There is an option to get some basic tools with the first one - if you do not already have the ones in the bundle.
 
If you have unlimited funds and  wish to accumulate tools just to have tools, go on a buying spree - most will probably just gather dust.  Otherwise,  when you get to a point where a tool looks like it could increase speed or efficiency  just get that - opt for quality in your choice.  If you also start your #2 plastic kit,  you can work on it while waiting for UPS.
 
About a Dremel -  The all in one models rotate too fast for shaping - it wants to skip to where you don't want it -and have no power if you slow it down enough not to burn wood.
30,000 RPM is just too fast for #61-80 drill bits.  

You should probably give yourself a fair chance with your first venture into wooden kits.  Right now, your best bet is to take a close look at Model Shipways  Shipwright beginner series.  There is an option to get some basic tools with the first one - if you do not already have the ones in the bundle.
 
If you have unlimited funds and  wish to accumulate tools just to have tools, go on a buying spree - most will probably just gather dust.  Otherwise,  when you get to a point where a tool looks like it could increase speed or efficiency  just get that - opt for quality in your choice.  If you also start your #2 plastic kit,  you can work on it while waiting for UPS.
 
About a Dremel -  The all in one models rotate too fast for shaping - it wants to skip to where you don't want it -and have no power if you slow it down enough not to burn wood.
30,000 RPM is just too fast for #61-80 drill bits.  

When viewed from a wider focus,  this can be understood as being a message and a warning.  Parts that degrade in the box are really telling you that they are inappropriate to use - period.
Use them as templates.  Replicate them using materials that will last over time.