Stockholm tar

Hi All,
 
The planking is still progressing slowly, I have started to plank around the curve of the hull and have let the planks run fairly close to their natural line this has resulted in them terminating on the plank above and not the stem, but they seem to be laying nicely on the hull and not buckling.  
 
I have laid five planks on the starboard side to see how they would look and if it was no good I only had one side to remove. I think they look OK so I have started with the same pattern on the port side.
 
Sorry about all the clamps but I only laid these planks about 20 minutes ago. I will post some better pics on the weekend.
 

 

 

 
 I have also been thinking about what to do with the gunports the kit supplies a preformed brass gunporrt linning that, to me, looks a bit tacky. They look more like an open window frame than a gunport linning.
 

 

 

 
So I was thinking of discarding them and lining the ports with timber, I have some strips of 3mm x0.5mm sapillea left over from the 'Swift' which can be trimmed to size but as the thickness of the hull is only 2.5mm I was wondering if it would look alright  becuase they would also have to be stepped into the port so that when the lids close they would be flush with the hull  The port lids are 1mm ply which are supposed to be lined with I'm not sure what because the plans or instrucions don't say, I am guessing the outside would be the same 1mm x 6mm walnut I'm using for the second layer of planks, if so I will have some sanding to do .
 
Any thoughts would be appreciated
 
Any way I have a while to think about how I'm going to do them while I continue with the planking     
 

Thanks, Kester. As you know, you were the inspiration for the jeer bits, so I have to thank you for that as well! Yes, I might well reduce the number of swivel guns as you have done. I've had a good look at yours and agree it gives more space for the gunners. I'll always be happy to opt out of the arms race.
 
Tony

Anthony,
 
I would think all the decks are caulked, and I believe I have seen a photo of the lower deck being so treated. If you also look at photos of the Victory's decks, I think you will see they are. Naturally the weather decks are the most important in keeping water out, but if you think about it all of the decks would get wet at some stage, from washing down periodically, pump water, etc. So yes, I would do it.
 
An interesting piece of information from the curator Andrew Baines recently, is that the Victory is to be again caulked using the traditional methods, during her refit. After having used a synthetic mastic substance for several years, he said that the modern material just didn't flex with the temperature, as traditional hemp would do - and was a source of leaks! Surprise, surprise, it just goes to show that the tried and tested (over several hundred years) techniques are often the best.
 
She's looking very good so far, I shall be following with interest.

Anthony,
 
I would think all the decks are caulked, and I believe I have seen a photo of the lower deck being so treated. If you also look at photos of the Victory's decks, I think you will see they are. Naturally the weather decks are the most important in keeping water out, but if you think about it all of the decks would get wet at some stage, from washing down periodically, pump water, etc. So yes, I would do it.
 
An interesting piece of information from the curator Andrew Baines recently, is that the Victory is to be again caulked using the traditional methods, during her refit. After having used a synthetic mastic substance for several years, he said that the modern material just didn't flex with the temperature, as traditional hemp would do - and was a source of leaks! Surprise, surprise, it just goes to show that the tried and tested (over several hundred years) techniques are often the best.
 
She's looking very good so far, I shall be following with interest.

Hi Kester and Mobbsie,
 
Thankyou both for your kind words  
 
Kester, you are right the only part of mast step that will be visible is the back end of it with a torch  

I thought you might like to see a few more pictures of the (slow) progress on my Sherbourne. The pictures were actually taken about a month ago, and my wife and I are now at our cottage, so work won't resume on her until the autumn.
 
I've now finished the shrouds apart from the ratlines, which I'm leaving off for access until later, and have in place some of the running rigging, including the burtons, top rope, boom topping lift, and throat and peak halliards for the mainsail. The latter is bent to the gaff and brailed into the mast:
 

 

Daniel,
 
I also like your 'kebab' stick idea, to get the pricker and then the drill into tight spaces. I'll have to try that.
 
I'm also enjoying the 'drama' of your Victory build.
 
Incidentally, in his 'HMS Victory, Owner's Workshop Manual', Goodwin says that all 24 and 32 pdr guns were rigged with breeching and preventer ropes, due to their heavy recoil. Also that with a standard charge and rope restraints this could be up to 11'.

Sjors,
 
Don't think that'll help much, as we already have your number – and if we have...
 
In any case, you'll obviously be occupying that vacant space at the back.
 
Anja,
 
I'm not surprised that you haven't been posting in your build log lately, what with one thing and another... . Great though what you have done.

Hi All,
 
After the deck planking was completed the next job was to fit the mast partner , this one differs from the other decks as it is larger and lines up under 2 of the frames above . It will have a stantion in each corner I will also make a shot garland down it's length on either side
 

 

 
I also fitted the hand rails to the Orlop deck companionways and rigged them
 

 

 

 

Mike,
 
Only to glad to help, and if you can make use of any of it you're welcome.
 
As I mentioned, I will probably furl my square sails off the model, much like you did. Come to think of it, I will no doubt be avidly reading your log again when the time comes for tips!
 
Jay,
 
Thank you. I had a very pleasant day, nice and quiet, just how I like it – apart from those people wishing me a Happy Birthday all the time! (Only kidding )

Mike,
 
Only to glad to help, and if you can make use of any of it you're welcome.
 
As I mentioned, I will probably furl my square sails off the model, much like you did. Come to think of it, I will no doubt be avidly reading your log again when the time comes for tips!
 
Jay,
 
Thank you. I had a very pleasant day, nice and quiet, just how I like it – apart from those people wishing me a Happy Birthday all the time! (Only kidding )

Mike,
 
Only to glad to help, and if you can make use of any of it you're welcome.
 
As I mentioned, I will probably furl my square sails off the model, much like you did. Come to think of it, I will no doubt be avidly reading your log again when the time comes for tips!
 
Jay,
 
Thank you. I had a very pleasant day, nice and quiet, just how I like it – apart from those people wishing me a Happy Birthday all the time! (Only kidding )

Mike,
 
Only to glad to help, and if you can make use of any of it you're welcome.
 
As I mentioned, I will probably furl my square sails off the model, much like you did. Come to think of it, I will no doubt be avidly reading your log again when the time comes for tips!
 
Jay,
 
Thank you. I had a very pleasant day, nice and quiet, just how I like it – apart from those people wishing me a Happy Birthday all the time! (Only kidding )

Taken quite some effort but finally have completed one set of shrouds with ratlines plus futtock throuds with the catharpins. Tying the knots was nice but getting all the tensions right with the ratlines and futtock throuds with the catharpins was a nightmare.....and there is more of them to do....
 
In helping with getting the tension good with the catharpins I used hooks on the ends of them - one end tied and glued whereas at the other end knots were left unglued so the correct length could be obtained (as photo). Also using hooks made it a lot easier and helped with tying everything on the futtock stave as it was getting quite crowded on there.
 
Also the futtock throuds were not looped around the stave but just tied to the lower throuds. Technically not correct but it was the only way I could think of to keep it neat and simple.....(at least as neat as I could do)
 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hi Popeye,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes.
 
Actually you have just caught it, as it's not 'belated' quite yet... at least I don't think so... at least not over here... or is it?...have the clocks gone back... no, I don't think so, I'm pretty sure that's pretty near the end of the month... is it me? (well I am 64 now, you know).
 
Mike,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes too.
 
Thanks too for you kind words about my Sherbourne's furled mainsail. Yes, cutting back the sail back to around a third, seemed about right, although the shape was not quite triangular. The head and luff were of course full length, since these would show. The leech is similar but it tapers in towards the foreshortened foot, which as I said is about a third of its full length. I found that those proportions were about right. However, sorry, I don't have a picture I'm afraid.
 
I also found that just damping the sail a little before furling, also helped. I think it somehow compresses the material, and dries into the desired shape. You probably read that I bent the sail to the gaff before fitting the latter, so I actually furled it on the model, using the brails a little at a time and lifting with one hand. Going carefully, it worked quite well and I think looks reasonably realistic. I'll probably do the same for the staysail and jib, although the square sails will very likely be furled off of the model as you did it.
 
Btw, I've been looking at your Badger log, and your sails look very good. You seem to have a good method there.
 
Wayne, Augie,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes, much appreciated and, in the words of Clint Eastward, have helped to 'make my day'! 

Hi Popeye,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes.
 
Actually you have just caught it, as it's not 'belated' quite yet... at least I don't think so... at least not over here... or is it?...have the clocks gone back... no, I don't think so, I'm pretty sure that's pretty near the end of the month... is it me? (well I am 64 now, you know).
 
Mike,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes too.
 
Thanks too for you kind words about my Sherbourne's furled mainsail. Yes, cutting back the sail back to around a third, seemed about right, although the shape was not quite triangular. The head and luff were of course full length, since these would show. The leech is similar but it tapers in towards the foreshortened foot, which as I said is about a third of its full length. I found that those proportions were about right. However, sorry, I don't have a picture I'm afraid.
 
I also found that just damping the sail a little before furling, also helped. I think it somehow compresses the material, and dries into the desired shape. You probably read that I bent the sail to the gaff before fitting the latter, so I actually furled it on the model, using the brails a little at a time and lifting with one hand. Going carefully, it worked quite well and I think looks reasonably realistic. I'll probably do the same for the staysail and jib, although the square sails will very likely be furled off of the model as you did it.
 
Btw, I've been looking at your Badger log, and your sails look very good. You seem to have a good method there.
 
Wayne, Augie,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes, much appreciated and, in the words of Clint Eastward, have helped to 'make my day'! 

Hi Popeye,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes.
 
Actually you have just caught it, as it's not 'belated' quite yet... at least I don't think so... at least not over here... or is it?...have the clocks gone back... no, I don't think so, I'm pretty sure that's pretty near the end of the month... is it me? (well I am 64 now, you know).
 
Mike,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes too.
 
Thanks too for you kind words about my Sherbourne's furled mainsail. Yes, cutting back the sail back to around a third, seemed about right, although the shape was not quite triangular. The head and luff were of course full length, since these would show. The leech is similar but it tapers in towards the foreshortened foot, which as I said is about a third of its full length. I found that those proportions were about right. However, sorry, I don't have a picture I'm afraid.
 
I also found that just damping the sail a little before furling, also helped. I think it somehow compresses the material, and dries into the desired shape. You probably read that I bent the sail to the gaff before fitting the latter, so I actually furled it on the model, using the brails a little at a time and lifting with one hand. Going carefully, it worked quite well and I think looks reasonably realistic. I'll probably do the same for the staysail and jib, although the square sails will very likely be furled off of the model as you did it.
 
Btw, I've been looking at your Badger log, and your sails look very good. You seem to have a good method there.
 
Wayne, Augie,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes, much appreciated and, in the words of Clint Eastward, have helped to 'make my day'! 

Hi Mobbsie,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes.
 
I'm shortly having a tea with my mother-in-law, who lives not far from us (my wife is at work). I do enjoy her company, although I do try not to eat too many of her cakes – try being the operative word! However, as it is my Birthday...
 
 
 
 

Anja, Dirk, Kevin,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes.
 
I'm sure I'll have a great day – and I'll try my very best not to party 'tooooo' much.
 
As they say, one year older, another year wiser. In my case I'm not too sure about the latter observation.

Anja, Dirk, Kevin,
 
Thanks for your Birthday wishes.
 
I'm sure I'll have a great day – and I'll try my very best not to party 'tooooo' much.
 
As they say, one year older, another year wiser. In my case I'm not too sure about the latter observation.

Jan,
 
Dafi is correct. The ringbolts were normally positioned as near to the centreline, behind each gun, as was possible. This would give the tackle the maximum amount of room to operate and be effective. However, depending on the gun's position, I am not sure that the guns always entirely cleared their ports, and there are instances of the rammer and sponger having to operate with their implements out of the port. Incidentally, the gun's own recoil would normally return it to the loading position.
 
Regarding the entry ports, Goodwin in his 'Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War', says that they were fitted between 1660 and 1810, although some ships continued their use after that date. That is presumably why early 20th cent. photos of the Victory show her without an entry port. He also states that the first use of entry ports, port and starboard, was from 1671.
 
As to their use, I think Mark is right, and that they were for the use of senior officers only. I may be wrong here, but I'm not sure lowly mids and lieutenants would have been allowed to use it, unless they had special dispensation.

One of the mod ifcations I am making to this kit is to fit hand rails to the companionways. I don't know if they  were fittited on this deck but as I said previously there was only one ladder leading to the hold deck in this part of the ship.
 
I am going to make the hand rails out of tooth picks as they have a pattern already turned on the handle end and are about the right diameter.
 
To make them I cut them to length plus a few millimeters and then turned the ends down in my dremel so I had a pin to locate into the holes I had drilled in the coamings. They were then stained with oak.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The ladders were then fitted and the hand rail post were fitted to the Hold deck, the Orlop deck posts won't be fitted until the lower gun deck as fitted as they are fragile and may get broken off
 

 

 

 
 

Jay,
 
Sorry you have been ill, and hope you are better now.
 
I'll see what I can do about Bluenose. She's a little dusty right now, and will need a bit of a going over with a paint brush! Also one of her nav. lights has come adrift and will need fixing. Then I'll try and take a few good pictures of her.

Well... this will probably be the last little bit of "fun in the sun" until next spring. I expect to leave Thursday morning, so the shipyard will have to be tidied up before then, and I don't plan on any more building until I get home in December... and by then it's too snowy for outdoor pics. As it is I had to wait until just before noon for enough sun to filter into the backyard... Another sign the days are getting shorter and cold weather is coming.
 
Hopefully this will satisfy a few of the photo-addicts that lurk around here..... (you know who you are.... Sjors.... ).
 
 
Incidentally... based on the number of questions I've received from people... I may have to consider writing my own rigging manual.... and for some reason that strikes me as rather odd.... since I'm far from an expert on the subject.... I dunno.... Something to ponder over then next few months anyway.....
 
 
Andy

Dubz, ZyXux, Jay: Thanks very much. I'm pleased with how the clinker planking turned out, although things get tricky as the run of planks approach the wales.
 
I've done the final starboard planks twice now, having re-done them after finding myself unsatisfied with how they came out. The current result is okay, but I wish it was better. I'm currently trying to decide if I can still do a better job and, if so, what exactly I would do over. I would really like to maintain the nice run of planks from this part of the build, as much as possible.
 
Kester: Thanks! The views can certainly be stunning, especially as the sun goes down on a clear day. Really spectacular. Living on the 63/F of one building and working on the 69/F of another, I spend a good portion of my daily commute in elevators (3 of them, to be exact)!
 
Sumner