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Rustyj

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Everything posted by Rustyj

  1. Rustyj
    Hi Sam. Sadly I will not be there in February. Unfortunately I have to work that day. Hopefully March will be better.
  2. Rustyj
    Great figure head! It's always fun to see everyone's different approach to the same model. Very nice.
  3. Rustyj
    Well done Jeff. Always a good idea to clamp.
  4. Rustyj
    Thanks Jeff. The paint is Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic in the tube and the color is Crimson. I just thin it with water. Thanks Jim and for all the likes too.
  5. Rustyj
    Making progress with some of the small things to finish the hull. The roller and fixed block have been added to bow. The traveler was made from 1/16' brass rod blackened. The traveler and block have been added at the stern. Next I will make the rudder and set it aside as Jim suggested. .
  6. Rustyj
    Very nice, crisp and sharp. Ah just wait, lots of painting to enjoy on this beauty.
  7. Rustyj
    Thanks Trig! It is a combination height, depth & thickness gauge from a company called iGaging (igaging.com).
  8. Rustyj
    That's great advise Jim, thanks. I've been the "victim" of a broken rudder or two on previous builds and still haven't learned from it!
  9. Rustyj
    The six knees have been sanded, painted and placed. The two fore knees have some sharp angles and thankfully Chuck supplies extras! Also the belaying pins where shaped and placed in the thwart. I'm on to the rudder, grappling hooks and thole pins!
  10. Rustyj
    Very nice B.E. Glad it's not a ship of the line!
  11. Rustyj
    Thanks Jim, Also thanks for all the likes!
  12. Rustyj
    The windlass, supports and bars have been completed and are now in place. I used a x-acto blade and files to complete the bevels. The ends were trimmed and then sanded to shape. A little at a time to keep them equal and a good snug fit.
  13. Rustyj
    Very nice Jim. It's always fun to others add their own personal touches!
  14. Rustyj
    The mast thwart iron work has been completed. Supplied 1/16" x .025 brass strip was used to make the three straps needed to hold the mast. I bent the two straps around scrape wood the same thickness as the thwart. Holes were drilled with a #74 drill bit. The last iron strap was bent around a 3/8" dia. drill bit. All the thwarts have now been glued in place. Next I did the seats in the cockpit. The seats are laser cut in two layers just like the thwarts. The sides needed to have notches sanded in them for the frames just like the floor platforms. I got carried away and forgot to take pictures of that. Here is the finished result with many, many, did I say many coats of paint.
  15. Rustyj
    Thanks Joe also thanks for all the likes!
  16. Rustyj
    Very nice workmanship Ben. I too just got caught up.
  17. Rustyj
    This was a test fit of the risers prior to marking off the bolt locations. The starboard side installed. You can also see the completed thwarts above. They were assembled from two pieces to again give a nice uniformed rabbett. Here they are before being removed from the sheets. And the thwarts sanded to fit but not yet glued in place.
  18. Rustyj
    Very well done Ken.
  19. Rustyj
    I've used Ramelson chisels for years and love them.
  20. Rustyj
    Well done Chuck. I hope mine looks half as good!
  21. Rustyj
    Thanks Chuck, Just heat, bend, check and repeat as necessary. Works like a charm. The platforms were sanded and notches for the frames cut. This required many test fits until I got a fit I was happy with. The risers have been sanded, nails applied and a light coat of poly added. To place these I used the same method from the barge model. A T square was made from scrap and the height was taken from the plans and transferred to each frame.
  22. Rustyj
    BEAUTIFUL!
  23. Rustyj
    Thanks Jeff and for all the likes!
  24. Rustyj
    HI Ryland. If your cap rail turns out like mine you won't have an issue. I ended up sanding off about a 1/32" from those transom ears.
  25. Rustyj
    Hi Ryland, Looking real good and it is a good idea to remove the tape as you plank. it gets harder to remove when some of the planking is in place even if you don't glue it accidentally to the frames.

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