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Rustyj

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Everything posted by Rustyj

  1. Thanks Chuck, Just heat, bend, check and repeat as necessary. Works like a charm. The platforms were sanded and notches for the frames cut. This required many test fits until I got a fit I was happy with. The risers have been sanded, nails applied and a light coat of poly added. To place these I used the same method from the barge model. A T square was made from scrap and the height was taken from the plans and transferred to each frame.
  2. HI Ryland. If your cap rail turns out like mine you won't have an issue. I ended up sanding off about a 1/32" from those transom ears.
  3. Hi Ryland, Looking real good and it is a good idea to remove the tape as you plank. it gets harder to remove when some of the planking is in place even if you don't glue it accidentally to the frames.
  4. The hull has now been completed, sanded with 320 grit sandpaper and a light coat of wipe on poly applied. I have also added the outermost floorboards.
  5. Thanks Steve. I'm lucky to have Christmas to New Years off so I'm taking advantage of it. Thanks Jim. I'm ahead of the instructions and I'm using the plans and Chucks build log for guidance.
  6. The diversion to the floorboards continues. The large boards seen in the last post were one piece each. The center board and two outside boards have a rabbet along their edges. They were glued together with a rabbet on both sides. The outside planks of the floorboards only have a rabbet on one side so the inboard side needed to be sanded down to fit. I'm back at the rest of the nailing and should be done soon.
  7. Thanks Joe, With the light shining I would mark each frame. Once they were all marked I would go back and adjust any mark that was out of line. Thanks for the kind words Steve. The area that was the most problematic was where the butt joints meet on a single frame. Fortunately if I did drill through the plank and miss a frame most were under the floorboards or seats. If I did go through and I thought it might be seen I pulled the monofilament back flush, sanded off any chips and put a tiny spot of paint on the monofilament making is very hard to see. Hi Rich. I wish I could say that the entire hull was free of any light shining through. I still need to get better. I got distracted from doing the hull and switched to the floorboards and platforms for a minor diversion. Well that's all the fun for today. It's off to the family gathering now.
  8. I've started marking off the hull for the nails. With the planks being only 1/32" thick I could put a light on the inboard side and see where the frames are. Here is the start of the monofilament being placed in the holes after dipped in glue. A single edged razor is used to cut them off after the glue has dried. I then sanded the nubs with 320 grit sandpaper and applied a coat of wipe on poly. Here the starboard side has been completed.
  9. Hi Jeff, Looking good. The small strip should only be needed on the single frames. It wouldn't hurt to put them on all the frames though. I only did the single frames and had no problems when I faired them.
  10. The cap rail has been completed, painted, the friezes added and the molding under the frieze scraped to shape and added. As you can see there is still some paint touch up needed on the cap rail. Once I'm satisfied the paint is done I'll move on to start the simulated nails on the hull planking.
  11. Very nice Ben. I might have tried that too if hadn't done that with the barge. Very interested to see how she looks once free from the building board!
  12. Very nice planking Ken. Once I finished the hull planking I gave it all a good sanding and another coat of wipe on poly. Once we tree nail the hull another coat will be needed too!
  13. Thanks Jeff and Brian as well as all the likes. That's the plus side of being "semi retired" This is the quiet season for me until mid January!
  14. The cap rail was trimmed to fit and added. While the glue dries the bolsters were formed and then fit at the bow. There are multiple angles to sand and cut into it. Once they were fit the outboard side of the cap rail was sanded down to 1/32". I used a scrap piece of 1/32" wood to keep checking my progress. The starboard side sanded to 1/32" and bolsters in place. Once the outboard was sanded I used a compass to mark the 5/32" thickness the cap rail needed to be sanded to. Next the inboard cap rail will be sanded to the correct thickness as well as the frames.
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