Jump to content

Rustyj

NRG Member
  • Posts

    2,516
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rustyj

  1. Holly can deepen a bit when a varnish is applied. I believe it will darken some with time too. Might want to do a small test piece.
  2. Thanks Tim. My pleasure. Thanks Jim I will spend a bit of time "cleaning up" my goofs once I've finished.
  3. Hi Jim, I do not use an air brush as of yet. I do pre-paint before assembly sometimes but with a brush. The thwarts had three or four coats on them before I assembled them.
  4. Thanks Chuck. That saved me bothering you with another question. Thanks Ben. I've never painted soooooo much. And the end is not is sight yet. Hi B.E. Your gonna love it! Thanks Dirk and all the likes too!
  5. Hi All, I've got some catching up to do here. The risers for the thwarts fitted, clamped and drying. The benches, bench seat back and coxswain seats have been added and the first several coats of paint have been applied with many more to come. Here are the laser cut thwarts and the two long saw tooth looking strips are for the stretchers. I kinda got caught up working and forgot to take pictures. Each cross piece was specifically cut for its position so numbering them and keeping them in order was real important. All pieces were test fitted then taken apart and glued together. After assembling the thwarts I realized I had gotten ahead of myself and forgot to put the stretchers in. Oops followed by a bunch of swearing. Luckily I was able to slide everything in between the framing. No harm no foul. Whew. Many more coats of paint is needed and well as planking above the thwarts.
  6. Well the admiral is a bit under the weather so I've stayed home from work to in case she needed anything. It did afford me some extra time to get some "work" done on the barge. I painted the bench arm rests and glued them in place. Then the upper portion aft of the arm rests was planked. Then the seat base and seat tops were added. You can see I painted a small portion testing the consistency of the thinned paint and checking the seams at the planking for a nice tight fit. I've found that if there is a bad joint it will show up when paint is applied. The paint I'm using is Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Crimson.
  7. Very good B.E.The work to do all of the tick strips and marks will pay off when planking the belts.
  8. Thanks Tim, Mark and alde, Been a little busy so my reply is a bit tardy. Mark, trying to gauge 1/64" on a drill bit was a bit tricky. I was able to be successful drilling the holes and use the supplied black line to simulate the bolts. The line was cut off flush using a sharp razor blade. Now its on to interior work and, shudder, painting.
  9. Hi Mike, I remember how much "fun" doing those ports, especially at the bow were. Great job.
  10. Thanks Chuck and Ben. Drilling a hole in wood that is one 1/32" thick without going all the way through sounds like a lot of fun.
  11. The fore and aft platforms are now installed. Chuck showed a nifty idea for using a "T" made from scrap wood to measure the correct position of the platforms on the frames. Align the top of the T with the cap rail and then make a tick mark at the depth of the platform. Transfer it to the matching frames and you have the correct depth. Some minor sanding of the frames was required to get it correct. Next is drilling a couple hundred holes for the simulated nailing of the planking.
  12. Hi all, The cap rail and frames have all been sanded to their proper dimensions. Next I sanded the floorboards and prepared them for installation. They are laser cut and required minimal heat bending to get a nice fit. Here the fore and aft platforms have been glued up and ready to install.
  13. Thanks Ben, I too didn't know it was available. Gonna get one now.
  14. The cap rail and inner frames have all been sanded to the required thickness on the port side. Just a lot of sand, measure, sand, measure, continue as needed!
  15. Thanks Ben. I hope you are enjoying this as much as I am. Also thanks for all the likes!
  16. Now that the barge has been released from the building board it can be used to hold the model in the upright position. Chuck supplied the wood pieces and now it is held firmly is place. Next I sanded the tops of the frames flush with the planking in preparation of adding the cap rail. The cap rails finished width is 5/64". you can see that a piece is plenty wide enough was provided. You can see I marked how wide it would be when sanded to its proper width. The rails were added and then sanded flush to the outboard planking. I then marked a reference line to guide me while sanding the inboard frames and rail. I also used a 5/64" gauge to ensure a correct width.
  17. Wonderful work Chuck! Hopefully some of the "test" portions will make it to the Northeast Conference. Huh huh pretty please!
  18. Thanks and welcome aboard Tim! Thank Bob! The centers have now been removed from the frames. Like Ben I found using a fine razor saw worked well for me. Next is adding the cap rail and fairing the inboard frames.
×
×
  • Create New...