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Rustyj

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Everything posted by Rustyj

  1. Very good B.E.The work to do all of the tick strips and marks will pay off when planking the belts.
  2. Thanks Tim, Mark and alde, Been a little busy so my reply is a bit tardy. Mark, trying to gauge 1/64" on a drill bit was a bit tricky. I was able to be successful drilling the holes and use the supplied black line to simulate the bolts. The line was cut off flush using a sharp razor blade. Now its on to interior work and, shudder, painting.
  3. Hi Mike, I remember how much "fun" doing those ports, especially at the bow were. Great job.
  4. Thanks Chuck and Ben. Drilling a hole in wood that is one 1/32" thick without going all the way through sounds like a lot of fun.
  5. The fore and aft platforms are now installed. Chuck showed a nifty idea for using a "T" made from scrap wood to measure the correct position of the platforms on the frames. Align the top of the T with the cap rail and then make a tick mark at the depth of the platform. Transfer it to the matching frames and you have the correct depth. Some minor sanding of the frames was required to get it correct. Next is drilling a couple hundred holes for the simulated nailing of the planking.
  6. Hi all, The cap rail and frames have all been sanded to their proper dimensions. Next I sanded the floorboards and prepared them for installation. They are laser cut and required minimal heat bending to get a nice fit. Here the fore and aft platforms have been glued up and ready to install.
  7. Thanks Ben, I too didn't know it was available. Gonna get one now.
  8. The cap rail and inner frames have all been sanded to the required thickness on the port side. Just a lot of sand, measure, sand, measure, continue as needed!
  9. Thanks Ben. I hope you are enjoying this as much as I am. Also thanks for all the likes!
  10. Now that the barge has been released from the building board it can be used to hold the model in the upright position. Chuck supplied the wood pieces and now it is held firmly is place. Next I sanded the tops of the frames flush with the planking in preparation of adding the cap rail. The cap rails finished width is 5/64". you can see that a piece is plenty wide enough was provided. You can see I marked how wide it would be when sanded to its proper width. The rails were added and then sanded flush to the outboard planking. I then marked a reference line to guide me while sanding the inboard frames and rail. I also used a 5/64" gauge to ensure a correct width.
  11. Wonderful work Chuck! Hopefully some of the "test" portions will make it to the Northeast Conference. Huh huh pretty please!
  12. Thanks and welcome aboard Tim! Thank Bob! The centers have now been removed from the frames. Like Ben I found using a fine razor saw worked well for me. Next is adding the cap rail and fairing the inboard frames.
  13. Hi All, Here is the first row of planking on the starboard side. And here is all the planking completed. And the now released from the building board!
  14. Thanks Chuck! Great design and having a ball. Also thanks everyone for all the likes! Much appreciated.
  15. Both halves have been glued to the keel, dried and fairing is mostly completed. I've started prepping the spiled planks. They are 1/32" (.08mm) thick so they are delicate. Laser char is gently removed with a sanding stick. You will also see a faint laser etched line in the plank. A bevel from the laser line to the edge was created with the sanding stick too. Here you see a plank formed to fit by heat bending until it lays on the frames without being forced. This is a whole lot of fun!
  16. Hi Mike. Having done her in boxwood I understand your change. Great job on the joints on the Knee of the Head too.
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