Doreltomin

Good morning Denis,
 
I saw that you took quite an extensive look into the build when catching up, and thanks for all the likes. After putting on the Stern decoration I`ll make a break though, so that my HMS Pegasus may be completed first. Stern name and depth-markings are on, but the golden colored decorations and the home-port`s name (Bremen) are still to be fitted, here some impressions of the "dry-dock" views....  I`m so pleased with the experience with the borderline (Black / red) painting, after Dirk`s suggestion, and in combination with masking, that I can only recommend this further on to fellow modelers 
 
Nils
 

 
depth markings
 
 

 
 

 
relation, figurine in scale 1:144
 
 

 
aft name in 3mm high etched brass letters
 
 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

thank you so much -  John - Dimitris - Don - Piet - Bob (Rafine) - Michael - David,
for your Kind and nice words, comments and appreciations, that is very much appreciated
 
also all those who expressed their "likes" by pressing the appropriate button
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
I am now putting in a break with the KWdG build, before I begin with the top superstructure, railings, decks, etc,  in order to proceed with my "HMS Pegasus" and get her out under the dust protection foil.......
 

 
Nils 
 
 
 
 

This is one link.
 
http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/search/?q=hms+vICTORY
 
Scroll down the page until you reach A pink paint job for HMS Victory?
 
B.E.

Daniel will need another rebuild
 
Jan

Prussian blue, mixed with yellow, gives very cold, acid greens.
 
Lead white often turns grey as it oxidizes in the atmosphere. Lead oxide (I forget which one; Pb2O3 or PbO2) is black. Perhaps a chemist can clarify this for us.

That is the French 74 Mont Blanc and other vessels off Marseilles.  The Roux painting sold at Christies for 22,500 pounds
 
Regards,

Shades (sorry) of the movie "Operation Petticoat". A comedy movie about a WWII US sub that ended up being painted pink.

I've still got that nagging doubt in my mind, if the new colour is correct why do so many contemporary paintings show warships of the era with pale yellow sides.
 
Given that they are already daubing the hull with the new shade, I wonder if the colour theme will extend to the lower masts.
 
I have less of an issue with the baby blue, because pastel colours were a feature of the Georgian /Regency era, and it's a short step from duck egg green to baby blue.
 
If the findings are truly correct in this as in many things Nelson was way ahead of his time. British warships were painted a fetching shade of 'Mountbatten' pink camouflage in the Med campaign of WW11.
 
B.E.

Yes Dafi I think the French got beaten because they were too busy laughing to man the guns - who paints a warship pink? Good tactic Nelson!
 
A lot of People who have built Victory will now be crying in their beers. Yes I too now have an historically inaccurate black and yellow meter-long monolith on my bookcase
 
Steve

Hello Gary, the answer to your question is, as always "depends"
 
Depends on epoch and more important, depends on nationality.
 
One thing is certain, the gunports were cut after the deck beams were placed in place and the deck was laid, so that the lower and upper sill were always put parallel to the deck. Now there is a wide debate even among the members of this forum whether the other two sides are put square to the upper and lower or were put parallel to the frames. Some say the first, some say the second. In the first case the lids would be rectangles with square corners, in the next they would be slightly parallelograms in shape. One thing is certain: square (which is, with the height equal to the width) they never were. 
 
Tell us which nationality and which epoch your ship is, then we may come out with a more detailed answer!

The port sill and lintel usually follow the run of the deck.   Therefore they are usually not square square.  While the uprights are perfectly vertical.

Hello Gary, the answer to your question is, as always "depends"
 
Depends on epoch and more important, depends on nationality.
 
One thing is certain, the gunports were cut after the deck beams were placed in place and the deck was laid, so that the lower and upper sill were always put parallel to the deck. Now there is a wide debate even among the members of this forum whether the other two sides are put square to the upper and lower or were put parallel to the frames. Some say the first, some say the second. In the first case the lids would be rectangles with square corners, in the next they would be slightly parallelograms in shape. One thing is certain: square (which is, with the height equal to the width) they never were. 
 
Tell us which nationality and which epoch your ship is, then we may come out with a more detailed answer!

Hello Gary, the answer to your question is, as always "depends"
 
Depends on epoch and more important, depends on nationality.
 
One thing is certain, the gunports were cut after the deck beams were placed in place and the deck was laid, so that the lower and upper sill were always put parallel to the deck. Now there is a wide debate even among the members of this forum whether the other two sides are put square to the upper and lower or were put parallel to the frames. Some say the first, some say the second. In the first case the lids would be rectangles with square corners, in the next they would be slightly parallelograms in shape. One thing is certain: square (which is, with the height equal to the width) they never were. 
 
Tell us which nationality and which epoch your ship is, then we may come out with a more detailed answer!

Hello Gary, the answer to your question is, as always "depends"
 
Depends on epoch and more important, depends on nationality.
 
One thing is certain, the gunports were cut after the deck beams were placed in place and the deck was laid, so that the lower and upper sill were always put parallel to the deck. Now there is a wide debate even among the members of this forum whether the other two sides are put square to the upper and lower or were put parallel to the frames. Some say the first, some say the second. In the first case the lids would be rectangles with square corners, in the next they would be slightly parallelograms in shape. One thing is certain: square (which is, with the height equal to the width) they never were. 
 
Tell us which nationality and which epoch your ship is, then we may come out with a more detailed answer!

Hello Gary, the answer to your question is, as always "depends"
 
Depends on epoch and more important, depends on nationality.
 
One thing is certain, the gunports were cut after the deck beams were placed in place and the deck was laid, so that the lower and upper sill were always put parallel to the deck. Now there is a wide debate even among the members of this forum whether the other two sides are put square to the upper and lower or were put parallel to the frames. Some say the first, some say the second. In the first case the lids would be rectangles with square corners, in the next they would be slightly parallelograms in shape. One thing is certain: square (which is, with the height equal to the width) they never were. 
 
Tell us which nationality and which epoch your ship is, then we may come out with a more detailed answer!

dear all, thank you very much for nice replies :-) so motivated now.
 
Lets make your dreams come true Bob, here is the tech I used;
after deck planking is finished I applied hair sprey (a single coat, not thick)
when it is dried, applied white acrylic, gets dried
then I  put water drops randomly, wait a little bit till it dissolved the hair spray then I applied hard strokes with the tip of a hard brush randomly again. This removes the white color and the hair spray, brown color of the deck is visible now.
If the brown color is seen so much, I applied a second coat of white (but very dissolved), this gives the appearence of re-painted deck or smthing like that.
search the you tube for "hair spray technique weathering" there are amazing works from plastic modellers, that helps.
if any questions, I would like to help
Mehmet 

some little progress so far....
 
 
mehmet

Thanks Buck, David and especially Russell for the very nice gift. I've finished one bottle already :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Sal, Bob and Per.
 
 
I used furniture wax on the wooden plug, and glued each plank by wiping the glue over the seam instead of trying to glue the edge.
 
To prevent the hull from spreading while fitting the ribs I made a jig. I had that problem with my Cutter - this will do the job nicely :
 

 

 
Here's a tip for edge sanding very small or thin planks - another jig :
 

 
  Danny

And toyour other question: Mayfower is a bit early for a 1690-ies ship.
Mayflower is more like 1610. Relatively small, and a bit old fashioned in her lines.
 
Jan

A regular merchant ship would not have been decorated in any way. The underwater body may have been coated with 'white stuff' (a cream color), 'brown stuff' or 'black stuff'.

I decided to experiment with my new, modified toy and see how things worked out. Good thing; I found a couple hick-ups.
Below you can see the small wooden block mounted on the rotary table using the four jaw chuck. I cut some grooves horizontally and then tilted the table as you can see in the pictures.
A couple problems:
1. Mounting the chuck directly on the tilting table (using the adapter plate) is tricky because of the graduated angle pieces. The unit also sits too low so that I cannot tighten the jaws with the wrench provided. Mounting it on the rotary table took care of that.
2. The cap screws in the far right bottom corner hold the table to the mill. But I did not leave enough clearance when tilting the table. I need to take the unit apart and cut away some more metal.
3. My intent is to leave the chuck mounted on the adapter plate. However, as you can see, the cap screws that hold the plate to the rotary table interfere with the chuck jaws. Now I need to mount the chuck first with the jaws closed and then mount the work piece  I should have made the holes in the adapter plate rotated -let's say- 30 degrees off center. That way I could close the jaws any time before or after. I can remedy this by making new slots or new countersunk holes in the adapter plate.
 

Unknown...circa 1950-60 maybe...
 
Some people save stray dogs  I save models that are destined for the dumpster.
 

 
Unknown Dutch Fishing vessel...Maybe???  Circa 1950ish maybe.  Who knows.
 

 

 

And just to round out the images of where I spend 10 - 12 hours per day...
 
This is the other side of the shop which is in my basement...yes I know it is an absolute bloody mess.  In total its about 25 feet long and 18 feet wide with that little hallway which leads to my kids man cave.
 
This is my block making station where yesterday I finished up milling 2000 2mm blocks.  Theres a lot of sawdust on the floor....and my shop mascot snuck in the picture.   You can see a drill press behind my hi-tech dust control system...the fan. , Byrnes saw and Sherline mill.
 

 
This is one half of my rope making station...You can see one half of that cheapo ME ropewalk on the table as well as all of the scraps from making a few thousand feet of rope over the last few days....I WANT TO BELIEVE.
 
I will be bringing all of that rope making stuff to St Louis to do a demo for the NRg Conference.   I will be showuing how I make 20 - 23 foot lengths of rope on that little Model Shipways rope walk....thats how I make all of it.
 

 

 
And then looking down the length of my basement and down the 30 foot long hallway to the other end of the rope making station.   This is where I make my rope.  Nothing too terribly exciting.   Alond the wall is my library and a bunch of old models...including the 18th century model that I should really find a better place for.  There is another old Dutch model there too that is crying out for some love and restoration.  I have no idea what it is but looks about 60 - 70 years old.  Maybe.  By God I have to tidy up this place...there is crap all over.  I am embarrassed.