Doreltomin

Today I laser cut the bulkheads and false keel from 1/4' thick ply.  It was comforting that the laser cutter will have no problem cutting through this thickness of ply.  That is really good.  Normally you will see 3/16" thick bulkheads.  I have started to use the thicker stuff in my latest designs.  I think it really helps with the stability and strength of the hull.  Its just a better thickness to go with in my opinion if you choose POB.    When you no longer have to worry about mass production and kit MFG profit vs. loss,  you are free to do these things.  Its a great feeling and in the end make the modeling experience so much better.
 
The parts fit really well.  You can see how large in comparison to the Winnie in the background.  I made the bulkhead former in two pieces as you can see.  I think its important to make these in shorter lengths.  If they are too long they have a tendency to warp and bend.  The slots cut for the bulkheads makes this even more of a problem.  It helps the warping become even worse.  You will also notice the many, many bulkheads.  I have added a picture of the Sherbourne cutter by Caldercraft for comparison of design.  With bulkheads that far apart the planking is going to be tough.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

This will mark the beginning of my project to build the prototype for the Cutter Cheerful.  The plans are completed and I am getting ready to release the plans in a few months.  I will be building her out of Boxwood or possibly even Pau marfin.  I havent decided.  This project is a POB build as you can see from the details in the plans posted below.  Its not a very cumbersome project with just a cutter rig to deal with.  She is carvel planked and not Clinker planked.  This is one of the reasons why I chose it as a subject.
 
Once I have the skeleton built and the hull planked,  the plans will be released. The remainder of the project is pretty straight forward and doesnt need much of an explanation.  I just need to prove out the design concepts for the hull skeleton.  It shouldnt take too long.  I will be writing a monograph as I build her and posting it on my website for free download as well as here on MSW should folks want to read it.  But as I stated,  I wont need to finish the entire project to release the plans as they are really straight forward.  At a 1/4" scale...the hull will be 28 inches long and 26" tall.  A nice size yet built at a larger scale to show some great details.  
 
I am finally at a point with the Syren store where my inventory is quite full and I will be able to enjoy working on both the Winnie and the Cheerful for several hours each day.  I just cant wait to get started.  Having a laser cutter doesnt hurt either.  It will save me much time.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
 
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1  
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
 
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
 
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
 

 
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.

Dear friends,
thank you very much for your kind words, I am pleased and appreciate your posts a lot. That is a great honour for me.
 
 
 
Dear Danny and Mark,
in this room there are about 30 ship models and more than 60 cars (mainly plastic models in a scale 1/24). The oldest ships I built about 20 years ago.
Many of these older models were quite easy, so there was not a problem to build several ships during every year. Now I prefer to create mainly large sailing ships (scratch build), so it takes me thousands of hours (for example Sovereign of the seas about 6000 hours and Royal Caroline almost 7000). Now I have only one problem - there is no spare space for more....
And the collection of bottles with alcohol - this is my husband's hobby ( but he does not drink it, only collects).....
 
 
 
 
Dear Vivian, thank you for your support and kind words. I am sure, I will continue with other projects and show it also here. Now I need to relax a little, so I spend some time to assemble plastic models.
For example La Reale by Heller:

http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=95541&start=30
Unfortunately this is a poor-quality kit ( I purchase the older one), so there are many troubles with fragile or damaged parts and in addition, the model parts are very inaccurate.
 
Next time I will rather choose Tamiya kits....
 
Best regards
Doris

Please enjoy the pics.
Best regards
Doris

And here are some pics from the room, where I keep all my models:
 

Hello dear friends,
let me express my sincere gratitude to all your comments, praise and congratulation. Thank you warmly for your kind words. That is a great honour for me and I appreciate it a lot.

This card model of Royal Caroline is one of my best I've ever created, but nothing is perfect and without mistakes and there are some things that could be made better or more realistic.

So there are lessons for next time and next projects.....

Thank you very much for your support and a great inspiration I have found here - in the family of model ship builders and very kind people.
I wish you a lot of success with model building and also a great time and much fun.
Kind regards
Doris

Happy birthday, Doris.

Completed boltropes on two sails.. Loosely hung them up for fun. Kinda wanted to get a peek at how Carmen was going to look in her new clothes.

Carmen is starting to look like a proper ship. Added some forstays and made first attempt at ratlines. Unfortunately, they turned out too ratty. This was more difficult than I imagined. As I tied the ratlines up the shrouds, they pulled slightly together, until half way up, the shrouds joined. I continued to tie knots to simulate the existance of actual ratlines, but will have to consider options for making corrections.

I assembled the masts, crosstrees and topmasts. I may not have tapered the masts enough for fear of making them too flimsy.
This picture shows test fitting for the masts. I'm pleased with the look of the ship so far.

I'm afraid I skipped taking some photos of blunders with this next post. After gluing the rail to the edge of the deck planks, I noticed that one side had an overhang, so filed it down. This made the rail narrower on one side, but it doesn't really show.
My first hull planks took a full day apiece. I bent them using a steam iron, then filed them slightly.

 
Now comes the BIG BLUNDER.
 
Notice the notch in the bow, where the planks come together? This notch is made to accept the cutwater or stem piece.

 
I decided that the notch was too frustrating, so I filed it off! This was recommended in a very old, and very bad, ship modeling magazine I found. This was a bad idea.

I took this picture when I had laid in my last hull strake. It also shows the missing notch.
 
When fitting the stem, the missing notch caused me to file the planks down to the false keel on the bow, as you can see in this picture. It left ugly white blotches instead of the beautiful Sapelly wood.

 
As a fix, I was able to glue some of the beautiful Sapelly wood sawdust over the blemishes. It worked! Nobody seems to notice the blunder now. Being such nice people, I know you won't tell anyone.

I tried several recipes before discovering what I liked. The main ingredient was Sapelly wood filed down into a nice pile of sawdust. I tried mixing it with wood glue and it came out way too dark when it dried. I tried mixing it with thick cyano glue, and it dried white and was very hard to work with. When I tried applying wood glue first, then covering the glue with Sapelly saw dust, it came out just right. (Kind of sounds like the story of the Three Bears, doesn't it?)
 
In the above picture, I broke the nose (stem) off three times before adding the side supports.
The timbers under the cap rail caused some frustration. Even after measuring the spacing three times, I couldn't get them to end up looking even. I ended up just "eyeballing" the spacing, and was happier with the results.

Now the time to make the hull  planking. My another cat Dragon carefully read the photo manual and say me what and how I must to do...   Removed the first pear planks from the plate and bend it using my  "water box". The planks are very small and i working very carefully. 
 








 
Using my wise, pre shaped planks and "water box" , working very quickly and easy. The planks are needed only some fine sanding. Very important is not to change the places of the left and right planks !!! Otherwise the gaps between planks will apear. I marked the planks and not have any problems. So, continued the hull planking...
 












 
The last planks is wider and longer and must be sanded as I need. Sanded, checked and glued. When dry, glued the last planks above the stringers. Thats all.
 






 
Ok, ok. It look's terrible... I know, but this is macro photo and the hull is not sanded. I'll do it later. Now only cut the planks at the hull aft.
 


 
Regards, Antanas
 
 
 
        

The 12 frame glued to the keel. I corrected it's position some times, until it stay in the right place. And glued the keel to the temporary frames. The glue applied only in the keel notch. Then ad the stringers. They glued only to the keel at the bow and to the 12 frame.
 












 
Sanded transom and glued to the keel and stringers.
 






 
Now the time to remove the pear strips from the plate. This strips will be the boat frames. The strips are very small and I used for its bending plastic bag, some water and microwave. My cat Silver verify whether all is well done. 3 minutes in the microwave and done. Now bended with fingers and glued. Glue is applied only to the keel and the top of the frames.
 













 
The last 3 strips are more short, from stringers to the top of the frame, and  glued only to the top of the frame.
 





 
And the used glue.
 


 
Regards, Antanas
 
 

Edges of the some temporary frames must be sanded at the some angle. They have laser marks too. I do it very carefuly, because the temporary frames are very breakable. Remember this, if You will build this model.
 




 
In this kit are used temporary frames and they holder. At the first I checked the holder.
 









 
And I decided to do some improvements.
 






 
Now I can use my self maded vise. I made it from some pieces of aliuminium, plywood and threaded steel road. As the clamp I used the old photo camera clamp. It is very useful for working with the small parts, because I can fix the vise at any angle.
 







 
Regards, Antanas
 

Since I'll be working on the hull for a while, I thought I'd upload negatives of the side profile from the blueprints . I still cannot upload the blueprints as the server will not take anything close to 2 MB. They are incredibly detailed which is unfortunate.

got a bit more done yesterday....the railings took most of it though.   I also began to add the pipe work to the funnels,  which will also put some emphasis on funnel #3.  I didn't get that far though.   the port side of the four funnels.......
 

 

 
the starboard side of funnel #1 got a couple of pipes added.
 

 
this is the better one........picture #3 was blurry.   I still need to touch up the railings,  but the A deck railing is complete
 

 
I'll see what I can get done today     thanks all for looking in.
 
 

I think summer took a vacation.........kinda cool the last couple of mornings.   spent a lot of time on that aft railing........one part broke and I had to fix it.  these are very delicate parts
 
the thought is still there Patrick,  although there are some things I'm not pleased about.   not all of the areas will be lit.....this is the biggie.  the hull in my opinion,  is a bit too thick........with the lighting test I did,  not all of the holes were visible like I wanted them to be.   as for not blocking the light filtration through the walls.......well,  I think the outer bulwark shell would hide some of that.   the main thing is that the three sections are not cemented to the hull yet,  so there is still the chance......the door is not totally closed to the idea 
 
to Frank:
 
ah.....the life of a modeler
been this way,  since we were toddlers
we started with blocks
the parents in shock
it got worse when we started to walk!
 
I did more Frank,  but it started getting stupid,  so I gave up.   I know your sentiment....I thank you for that       I was glad to see YOUR last update,  good to see your still visiting the table........there is never any rush!   we are modelers.......that's what we do   I'm not sure if it's a defective gene in our DNA,  that makes us do what we do........some folks look at us and shake their heads.  all I can say,  is that if a lot more folks practiced the medium,  there would be a lot less trouble in the world.  here are some things that would be different,  if modeling took over the world..........
 
1)  TV would die out.......that is,  unless there were a lot of modeling shows on. 
2)  commercials would cease to exist.....if the tele died,  no one would see them anyway.  but,  it would be a boon for model Expo and places like that,  if programming took a flip 
3)  travel demographics would see an upswing.........more folks would be taking trips to view the subjects they're modeling
4)  here's a biggie!   there would be MORE hobby shops!
5)  and perhaps the biggest one would be.......the admirals would always know where we are 

... further progress...
 
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some new photos from the last weekend when I met Mile.
 
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Hi Bruno,
 
I am not sure if I understand your question. .. but I will try to answer.
 
Mile did finish a second Jadran (marine school ship of former Yugoslavia) in the meantime. He worked last 1.5 years on it and that is why Royal Caroline has a relatively slow progress. Otherwise, Mile is extremely fast... I always get frustrated how slow I am, when I see his progress  :-)
... but maybe we post some photos of Jadran into the forum.
 
The next, we are looking for the plans of the Royal James 1671 – not easy to find these plans at all. Mile is going to do the Royal James after the Royal Caroline, in a bigger scale – probably 1:48 – and he will do it as an admiralty model. This will be something to report!!!   … a huge model with extreme precision and impression of reality which I am used to see when Mile is doing things. I am looking forward a lot to this project.
 
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To Omega 1234:
 
Concerning the carvings, I can tell here for Mile something since Mile is not using a computer much…
 
Mile is doing carvings out of the pear wood. The tools are made by himself and out of old drills. Some of them I show here on the photo so you can get an impression. The carving procedure is following:
Print a sculpture in scale of the model on a paper
Glue the picture on the piece of wood (pear wood)
Cut the contour of the sculpture (around the picture) with a fret saw
Start carving – leaving the upper contours untouched and carving away the areas you do not need
Practice, practice, practice…
 
My remark: Boxwood would be even more suitable for the carving work, but the pear wood is also a good material too.
 
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Here some new photos I took when wisiting Mile in Zagreb…
 
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