chris watton

I too find the Anycubic standard resin the best. Elagoo resin is not so good, I get at the very least one failure per print run, which means a tank clean. I need to always use the finest (lightest) supports so they do not mark the print too much, and they are easy to remove. Anycubic resin is great for this, with Elagoo being a complete nightmare in comparison, which need medium to large supports to even stand a change of printing correctly.

Saucy Jack is virtually identical in hull length to Nisha, perhaps a tad wider, but not much in it. Fuller hull, though.

Regarding swivel guns, at the start of the development, I was convinced I would be adding them to the kit. However, the more I researched, the more I realised there was zero evidence she had them. No swivel posts on any of the plans, and swivels not mentioned at all in both David Lyon's or Rif Winfield's Navy list books for this class. I decided to leave them off, otherwise I would be adding something she probably never had at time of launch (as the kit is depicted).

So cool!

Doing well! The brass pins are finer than most others, and much harder to source (and more expensive). I use these in my kits because they work well with the MDF, whereas thicker (and much cheaper) pins are not so good.

Thank you Figurehead is a bit of a headache. Not so bad when they're named after places or historical/classical/mythical figures...

I didn't mention in my last post some details about the Indefatigable development. Scale is 1:64th, making the hull only a little under 890mm in length (still around 50mm longer than my Amati Vanguard in 72nd). I am basing the model on how she likely appeared in 1796/97, when she captured the French 44-gun frigate Virginie in April 1796 and her most famous action in January 1797, helping drive the 74 Gun Droits de l'Homme ashore. My research tells me that at this time, her armament was 26x 24 pounders, (I assume Armstrong pattern so this is what I have done for the kit), 18 x 42 Pounder carronades and 2 x 12 Pounder (long) chase guns (which I have done in the Blomefield pattern). So that makes 46 guns in total. It is twice mentioned in contemporary correspondence that she had 14 carronades on the quarterdeck. The original plans show space for only 6 per side, so I have amended the quarterdeck bulwarks to take the extra port into account. I will probably fit her with a flying jibboom, as this was introduced in 1794, so the finished model will be quite a size. The pictures shown above are only the very first test fits with all critical structural parts. The hull structure needs to be pretty solid due to its size, so more attention has been spent ensuring this. Need to work out a suitable figurehead. Stern will be quite basic, but am not sure if the figurehead would have been just a bust or full, as these razees were commissioned at the height of the austerity measures...

Little update... I now have another 5 boats available: Cutters: 20 foot 22 foot 24 foot 25 foot And a 36 Foot Admirals Barge Ship’s Boats (various types) – VANGUARD MODELS Thanks to James Hatch! Also, I started Indefatigable designs a few weeks ago, and am currently nailing the hull designs. Throughout all this, I have had terrible toothache, culminating in tooth removal yesterday, so still feel like a bear with a sore head... The pics show the very first assembly of the first parts I cut for Indy, and other pics show the second cut of modified parts. Hull design is now set in stone, so onto deck and bulwark stuff. I decided to include full deck beams to scale, also scale distance for the upper and poop decks. I am still working on these. The only parts that are glued on the assembly are the gunport parts. This is quite large...

This was a very long time ago, 23,24 years - I honestly cannot remember, these were very quick developments (with designs originally hand drawn). this is all I can remember from this time. Sorry.

Hollowneck does this for his superb dioramas.

That does look really nice, Mario. I think I prefer this model with the fully painted hull.

Be cautious if using Master Hand for dimensions, Nisha is much smaller than that, Master Hand is more Erycina size.

Not sure I shall ever do a V2 of Sphinx, it is a very complex design with a lot of laser cut and PE parts. Plus, no matter what I do, it may be perfect for some, but others would still moan. Designing a FULL kit will always be a compromise. I know that some less experienced modellers have trouble aligning upper rails, and sometimes, the overall effect of the finished model is marred because of this. Linking the rails is my solution. But there is nothing stopping someone else separating them or changing them altogether. This is the great thing about wooden kits. However, I also know very well that the more experienced, the BE's, Hollownecks and DELF's of the world will always have their own solutions. It is funny reading that quote from Chuck, when I was pondering the implications of designing the front rails as one, I knew some would find it an issue, but also knew some would intentionally cut that curve away and add it as a separate part. This is how I was going to do it - but at the last minute, factored in the less experienced. Taking all into account, it was the lesser of two evils for me. This area is always a nightmare, design wise, but didn't want to simplify too much. So, it will always be this, for some, it is too much, but for others, it's not enough, it's trying to find balance between these two that is the real trick.

You only really need the scale line drawings on the plan sets you already have for the masts. You could download the V2 manual and just print off the relevant pages, if you really wanted hard copies. I do not produce the manuals myself, this is done by a printing company here in the UK.

You are doing a fine job, Paul!

These are a nightmare for me. Even following original drawings precisely, the doors would not open due to the bitts. So I had to move things slightly so they could open a little more, and it's still very tight!

OK, if this was me, I would address the planking issues like this: The hull below waterline level is white, and the area above waterline up to the top edge of the main wale to be painted black, leaving just the pre cut and engraved hull sides natural. Now, even this decision means a lot of long hours. You will need to paint, fill and sand multiple times. The dip in planking near that stern is another problem that can be addressed, but again, it will not be quick. So, first, mask off the areas not to be worked on, so everything above the top of the main wale. Second, get rid of that dip near the stern, where you have sanded off too much of the bulkheads there. This will need to be filled, sanded filled etc., and will take a while a do until it 'flows' with the rest of the lines. Third, once this is done, spray the unmasked hull white, you may need two to three cans for this, as it will take a lot of coats and sanding/filling in between each. Forth. mask off the hull below the waterline and then paint that area between waterline and top of main wale black. The area should be OK as you dealt with this with the white paint, thus covering all plank work. Others will have different solutions, but this is what I would do if it were my model.

Thank you!

I now have Fifie sail sets: Fifie Sail Set – VANGUARD MODELS

I would say Fifie or Zulu.

It can get very messy, though, and can be quite time consuming, especially when a print doesn't come out as it should... Forgot to mention, I made a change to the Alert kit. Alert is now in 'V3' guise, and brings it up to the same standards as the rest of the range. Changes that are now standard with V3 kits: 6-Pounder carriages have more detail and the cap squares are now integrated with the laser cut sides, same as Sphinx designs, so no need for the fiddly PE cap squares. Laser cut gratings now included with 1.5mm pear laser sheet. Black resin anchors, gone are the white metal versions. Laser engraved top deck, in line with the rest of the range. Pre made sail set (6 sails) Acetate stand now has nameplate engraved.

OK, Brodie Stoves... I had the original CAD stove drawing amended to address some initial issues (bolts hardly visible, hole for condenser too small etc., just little things), I changed the supports (for when the stoves are being printed) to the smallest possible to reduce any stubs that remain, and I was happy with the final file and print. I have produced the stoves in 1:64th, 1:72nd and 1:96th: Brodie Stove – VANGUARD MODELS I have attached two pictures of my first prototype stoves, showing all three scales, and two pictures of the one I sent James Hatch, which is painted. (and the latest versions are a little different with the changes stated above). As mentioned, each comes in 4 parts, main body, chimney, condenser and drip tray - and the original 64th version has been designed for the Indefatigable kit. Sizes (heights are without chimneys) 1:64 -L-28mm W – 24mm H – 29mm 1:72 – L-25mm W – 22mm H – 25.3mm 1:96 – L-18.75mm W – 17.3mm H – 19mm

Chuck already offers a superb 1:48th stove, so you're already well catered for

You are correct.

Just open up the PE strops enough so you can push the deadeye in place and just close the strop back up. I usually pull the strop using pliers and then 'squash' it back into shape.