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Posts posted by Decoyman
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12 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:
While this example appears to be the "Rolls Royce" of bending irons and is priced accordingly, In my experience, bending small pieces of wood over a curved hot iron is a particularly good method. The iron supplies the heat and each side of the piece can be offered up to the iron alternately, speeding up the initial heating of the piece. Thereafter, shaping is accomplished by bending the piece directly on the iron. No heat is lost between the heat source and the bending and heated wood loses its flexibility quite rapidly as it cools. If the wood resists the bend, one need only slow the rate of bending, i.e. apply less force, and let the heat increase to permit flexing to a sharper curve, thus avoiding much of the risk of breaking the piece. Given the cost of this appliance, since most of us won't be bending the sides of a cello, the side of a soldering iron will suffice.
I should try the hot (soldering?) iron trick. Up until now I have assumed that the small contact area would be disadvantageous, but, on the other hand, the associated cost is essentially zero, if you already have an iron. Thanks for the suggestion.
- thibaultron, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other
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I'm thinking of getting one of these, with the strap:
https://luthiers-bench.com/products/bending-iron
This is because I might build a lute, but also because I can see the use for shipbuilding.
Rob
- thibaultron, mtaylor and Canute
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Charles,
Your explanation of Scrubby's fence - if I understand you correctly - suggests there is a machined 'bow' to the blade side. I've checked mine and it is dead straight. Perhaps Jim has changed the design of his saw, but it looks to me as though the whole fence is misaligned. Also the blade seems offset in its slot, although that might just be the photo.
Attached are photos of my saw showing the fence almost exactly parallel with the guide slots in the table and the slot for the blade.
- scrubbyj427, mtaylor, BobG and 2 others
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Thanks, Charles - i'll look them up.
Kind regards
Rob (Decoyman)
- Canute, thibaultron and mtaylor
- 3
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That's really helpful - thank you again. All I have to do now is find a piece of 22 mm aluminium....
- thibaultron and mtaylor
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That's very helpful, thank you.
I have a lathe too, so I might have a go at turning up a spacer. If it's not too much trouble, how do you normally do this?
Best wishes
Rob
- mtaylor, thibaultron and Canute
- 3
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Thanks, Keith. Both, actually. I have two broken teeth on the carbide-tipped blade that came with the saw and my slitting saws are blunt!
- mtaylor and thibaultron
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Can anyone recommend a supplier for blades for the Byrnes saw in the UK? Not having much luck finding anything and the odd company that seems to have something vaguely similar (for example, same diameter, wrong sized arbor) is remarkably expensive.
Rob (Decoyman)
- thibaultron and bruce d
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Because the algae needs light to grow, I would have expected the green to be nearer the top of the waterline and not at all on the underside of the hull. Like this shot of the QM2.
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A bit of an American-centred view of the world, I think, Ron. The Euro may be falling against the Dollar, but, within the Eurozone there is no change. Why would you sell nothing to a market of 500 million while you are waiting for the exchange rate with a market of 300 million to turn in your favour? It doesn't make sense.
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Hi Druxey. Superb model, which I have been following avidly.
I think cylinder glass in some form was available much earlier than the early 20th century. Many Georgian and Victorian houses over here have quite large panes of glass in them. I look after this building: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claremont_(country_house),where the original glass panes are substantial. I'd be happy to measure some for you, if it would help. This website: http://www.sashwindowslondon.org.uk/info/history-of-glass-manufacture.html has a potted history of glass referencing cylinder glass, polished plate glass, etc as available at the time of the Greenwich barge.
Best wishes
Rob
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Do they fit the Byrnes saw without adaptation?
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Does anyone know of a UK supplier of blades suitable for the Byrnes table saw? Alternatively has anyone got an alternative adaptor bush to suit what is available this side of the pond?
Rob
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The SCORE blocks are the ones carrying the main lifting load of the derrick, so will need to be strong. Maybe the reference is for the material: steel cored perhaps? Standard blocks are wooden and therefore not labelled specifically.
I also note that the SCORE blocks are drawn much bigger on the drawing than the others, even if the indicated size is the same.
Rob
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Thanks Johann.
I've been following your longboat as well! Much better than mine, especially at a significantly smaller scale. On mine I'm still struggling to get the cherry planks to hold their bends well enough not to spring up and leave gaps, particularly at the front end.
Not that I've had any time to devote to it for the past few months....
Best wishes
Rob
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Redshirt said:
I'm confused too. What is Swiss pear, if it's not pearwood?
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In case anyone is interested Model Engineer is starting a series of articles by Patrick Puttock about his model of the 50-gun ship HMS Isis. The first instalment is now out.
Patrick's model won a gold medal at last year's Model Engineer Exhibition as well as The Earl Mountbatten of Burma Trophy.
Rob
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That's looking very tidy - well done George!
Rob
New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.
in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Posted
I use my Byrnes saw for a lot more than just shipbuilding and one thing I think would be helpful is to have a longer table as well as a wider one. Or at least an extension before and after the fence to support longer, more flexible pieces.