marktiedens

Hi everyone,
 
Wishing all of you a happy Christmas, holiday season, and a great New Year. Its been a very special year for me especially after joining MSW in February. I have had the privilege of making many internet friends. Friendships with people whom I would have not had the opportunity of meeting in my life, but with whom I have established a very nice closeness through our mutual hobby. I have learned so much, but I have appreciated my new friends even more. Thanks to all of you.
 
Sincerely,
 
Michael

Hey all, been working on the base for the rails this week. Pretty tedious work as I had to reshape many pieces to get it right. Reshaping also means repainting, but for some reason that part of the work feels fun.
 
The horizontal planks are first painted with  brown washes to get a slightly darker nuance. Then I sanded the outer sides to make it look like its painted. Then thin dirt streaks like it had rained on them. Then lighter washes to make it realistic and finally some light sanding to make it blend. I want to get many nuances of the washes so I had to paint all the vertical pieces using different shades of washes.
 
 
/Matti

Michael - checked his log.No words to properly describe his work.That will be a very large model at 1/36 scale.Almost makes me want to give up on mine - but I will soldier on.
 
regards,Mark

Michael - checked his log.No words to properly describe his work.That will be a very large model at 1/36 scale.Almost makes me want to give up on mine - but I will soldier on.
 
regards,Mark

Hello friends,
new photos of the construction progress of the BHR.
 
I wish you all happy holidays.
 
regards Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l   39

Mark,
 
I've already seen new things that I can do with the lathe. Here is one example; 2 pics from Jeronimo's absolutely astonishing Le Bonnehome Richard on the scratch built side. I hope that he does not object to my posting his 2 pics here, and I hope that I have not broken any MSW protocols in doing so.
 
PS: If you have not discovered his log, well you have no idea how amazing he is.
 
Michael

Hello Shipmates,
EUROMODEL HELP DESK - without going into the reasons behind why I am running this info desk from South Australia for Euromodel, let me assure all and sundry that the work is purely non-commercial, non-financial and I just do it for fun ! I am currently building all of their ships but how far I get depends on who asks me what !!! So specifically, I am flat-out on the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde (a German frigate) at the moment and so far have published six parts - text and photos - on the Euromodel website under 'Customer Assistance'. Have a look at it since it contains many ideas applicable to all their ships. Free to download. Purely my own ideas on how to put this ship together but at least it is a guide but definitely not an instruction manual. I would not dare to presume to tell others how to build these ships as the detail in these plans is incredible. I also read somewhere in this thread a query about sails. Euromodel DOES include cloth and detailed drawings for sails. I am easy to contact through the Helpdesk on the Euromodel website so look forward to hearing from anybody.
 
My apologies for not posting on the MSW as I am too wrapped up in creating these manuals .... but I will try to mend my ways.
 
Piratepete007 (actually Peter)

Update and some new photos.
I am revealing here also, my ultra secret, super-high-tech jig to make coils. 
I am starting to fix the shrouds, starting with the uppermost, by rigging the lanyards. Ratlines come after that (I'm preparing mentally myself for this task), and finally the running rigging. 
A few lower shrouds are already done as I had to finish them to fix some of the lines running from the stays.
Also you will see a lot of loose tangling lines. I will fix those later when I'm sure everything is as it has to be.
 
I can see now the light at the end of the tunnel. (Hope it's not the train )
 
Thanks for watching!
 

MOSQUITO MESH AND CLEAR ACETATE: To make windows.

As I mentioned earlier,these next few stages are really slow.I have fitted the deck beam shelves and planked the inside of the hull on the starboard side,including lining the gunports.The framework of the entry port is in place,but this will have the carvings added at a later date,probably when I fit the channels as they sit on the middle channel.I had to reverse engineer the gunports to ascertain the deck levels which involved a great deal of headscratching,but it did 'prove' my gunports were correct.The internal planking has had several coats of poly applied in preparation for treenailing.I am using Dafi's(thank you Dafi) idea for drilling the holes inside.I have glued a drill into the end of a bamboo skewer so I can poke it through the gunports to drill the holes on the opposite internal face.I have given it a try and it works great,but it ain't no Dremel so I may be at it some time
Kind Regards Nigel 

This last week has been even more hectic at work, but now its close to christmas. Ive managed to make the floor planks for the beakhead. Still need to weather them to make it blend better.
 
I made the planks thinner then the plans suggested, that also gave me the chance to make them look slightly uneven like on the real ship. When positioning them I tried to catch the irregular look of the original. I overdid the curve at the end though. 
 
 
/Matti
 
 

Part two of the hull's new trim piece installation.
 
Thanks to all of you for just looking in, posting, or clicking "like". So nice, works as a substantial catalyst for improving skills as well as collectively developing some very nice Internet friends in the process. As we all do, I also find a lot of pleasure, and learning by visiting other builder's logs. Ok...
 
------------------
 
Having grooved, sanded, shaped, and painted the two strips I had to decide how to properly install them. My first thought was just to overlay them above the existing planking, and cut them in several places during installation as they butted up against some of the cannon decorative rings.
 
But that was too risky because the slight but continuous curve from stern to bow would be lost at the artificial cuts. And at the areas that would only require a slight curved trim removal to allow space for the cannon rings might just crack or break the strip during the install.
 
So, I removed the cannon ring decorations, and then cut out and removed one row of existing side planking allowing for a seamless install of the new trim in one piece bow to stern.
 
I first measured and cut a piece of wood to make sure that the gap spacing was correct and that the new strips would run evenly parallel above the existing larger longitudinal hull timbers.
 
I then decided that glue was not required but merely used small brass nails. Started at the stern, with the trim in place drilled holes trough the trim and into the hull. As I went along I pushed in the nails allowing for an easy way to keep the intended curve; so far so good.
 
 You might note that the nails were installed at and through the weather deck vertical cannon frames. Two reasons; 1) it allowed for more depth for the nails, and during the next step (cutouts) the strips should stay secure and not loose their slight curve even with out glue.
 
Next will be the cutouts, and trim gap spaces for the cannon rings. That will certainly cause some stress. Any big error and I'll have to go back to the Proxxon and start all over again. Not news to many of us, I'm sure (starting again that is) I'll post when completed.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
PS: Edit pics loaded all out of order again, but easy to figure out. Hmmm

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Hi everyone,
 
Well this update makes me very happy. It highlights my first attempt at using the Proxxon MF 70.
 
Challenge: As noted in the just previous post, I did not add two long trim pieces that would then secure the mizzen mast chainplates on each side of the hull just above the lower galleries.  The first two pics of the 1/10th(yellow trims) highlight what I need to accomplish.
 
The big conundrum was how could I add the grooves that run along those two pieces using the MF 70. The pics below illustrate my solution.
 
I used a balsa block as a guide for the strips. Balsa seemed the best because I could run a very tight groove as the two strips were being pulled through, and the balsa would "give a little" but keep the strips straight. 
 
I then cut another wider upper gap trench in the balsa block favoring one side because when I would run the strips through, the needed groove was not in the center. You can note this in the 1/10th pics.
 
After attaching the groove bit, I tried a couple of sample strips. Didn't want to go too deep and then end up cracking the trim pieces, as they will need to be bend slightly to follow along the hull lines.
 
Well I'm really happy about how this turned out. This MF 70 will be a huge asset for improving my skills. I'm also super happy with how tight the Proxxon tolerances are; very slight two or three millimeter adjustments in the X Y Z axis created adjustments just where I wanted the bit to bite. Five stars for this tool.
 
Now a bit more detailing, sanding, adding nail holes, painting and installing the strips, and I can move forward with part two of the chainplates.
 
A bit wordy, this post, but I'm like a child with a new toy. (:-) This first use of the tool was very basic, but swimming always starts at the shallow end. Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Thanks Michael.now for a little update.Chainplates done & installed.I fastened the channels just above the wales instead of on top of them otherwise the chainplates would be too short.Did not think ahead far enough as usual .
 

 

 

 
Mark

Mark,
 
Thanks. I know that you spent a lot of time with those railings, My mindset was that it was with the milling tool. However your time sure was well spent those metal railings they look so original to the 1:1. Didn't know about all of that plywood, sort of cost cutting on their part .Too bad.
 
But, your build sure is coming out beautifully.
 
Michael

There is a store in my area called The Woodsmith Store.they have a fair selection of birch & walnut dowels although I could not find them on their website.They also have a good selection of exotic woods.
 
Mark

Hi Everyone,
 
revised posting  from yesterday's 
 
Part 1 of 2; chain-plate installations.
 
Nothing new here, I've mirrored how most of you install these when there are no bracing timbers above or below the plates. In regard to this build there is, of course, an other error.
 
The chain-plates, above the galleries, are to be attached to the hull upon, or just below large longitudinal timbers that run the length of the upper outer hull. I did not install these on each side. In deference to Corel their instructions were correct, I just missed it. I have an idea for a fix.
 
Again, thanks to all of you for spending time here.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Here are the top planks and the side ledges in place. Next up are the vertical "floor" planks. The original have them quite wonky and Im gonna try to imitate that look.
 
 
/Matti

Not an update, but my favorite son (we only have one child) got his dad an early Christmas present. It showed up yesterday. Hmmmm so happy. I think that my need for tools is over, now just more ships (:-) Presently working on the Vasa chain plates.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Cont'
 
 
 




For the head and foot, I used balsa block to shape them. I think there is certainly better wood for it, but balsa is the current wood material I have enough to build them. 
 


Now, the head on the stern gallery is added. Again, to ease my work I removed the club shape on the head, and made it smooth instead.
 


By using leftover wood from the stern filler, I added them at the bottom. That little curve might help designing my gallery
 


And again, plank them all using 0.2mm x 4mm walnut strips which left from my Pearl.
 


Up till now, it's already a week. 
When every piece is glue, it looks like this. Anyway, it's still not glued to the ship.
 

 
 
After painting...
 


Now it's time to add the white border line to the gallery. By using unused (due to modification) 2mm x 5mm walnut strip from the kit, I profiled a 'U' shape it like what we can see on the Trincomalee.
 


So, this is now the gallery looks like now.  

I'm running out of extra wood strips and couldn't continue already. Anyway, I've just placed an order from CMB and it might take around 2 weeks to reach Malaysia. I also included some cast metal of Amati, which at least looks better than the Corel kit ones in the website. Let's hope for the best!

Whilst waiting, I'll continue on the bulwark planking and other fittings first.

Thanks for viewing!

Good work!As you know my kit came with this thingy but I still haven`t figured out what it is .Might be some kind of fish or maybe a mermaid?

Insprired by Michael (md1400cs) I have made two rope blocks that are placed on the weather deck. I used my milling machine to make the grooves. I added only a brass axis inside of them and no pulleys, as it will function like this as well. It took some filing to fit them between the railings.


 
I have been working on the gun ports. I decided to not use the lids that came with the ship, but made them myself. From 5 mm beams I made beams of 10 mm by glueing them together. Then sawing them into pieces of 10x11 mm. Next I made from very thin wood the red inserts of 9x8 mm. I painted the hinges into metal color and painted the lion heads as well. In the photo there are only 47 gun port lids. I missed three sets of hinges, which I ordered now.
Next will be to attach them to the ship...