fifthace
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Everything posted by fifthace
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Well I can take a photo of my plans and give you the measurements but it's not going to mean a lot due to the difference in scale... -
Look on your plans as I said, they are marked on that. Yes I know that most of the strake is missing due to the planks showing the open side, but it shows you the position of them at the bow and stern, that's all you really need as they will follow a gradual curve between those two points.
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Mike the position of my marker plank was dictated by many things, some of which unique from ship to ship. Firstly, at amidships I usually start at the same level as the utmost mid-deck, then it depends on how that deck slopes from amidships to stern and amidships to bow. Most of the time, not always, but most of the time keeping in-line with the mid-decks slope from bow to amidships to stern will result in the plank being straight if you look at the ship from the side. Sometimes depending on the type of hull however laying the plank like this will result in a slight curve upwards towards the bow/stern, and indeed on this one it does slope upward slightly at the bow and even more slightly at the stern, as you can see from the bow photo...however it looks straighter if you look from the side. What I tend to find and someone can correct me if I am wrong is that this plank can be laid with no tapering either end, allowing it to find it's own way for the most part. All that probably isn't very much help at all sorry.
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Good afternoon. I've been working on a few different areas at the same time today. I've planked the transom and whilst waiting for that to dry I fitted the 4 piece keel in place. Back to the transom after trimming back and sanding smooth I marked the position of the rudder chain hawse and drilled them out, I also marked and cut the gap for the rudder itself. It's strange AL provided dimensions and position for the chain holes but gave no information on the size of the rudder gap, so I had to approximate it as best I could from the photos provided and the box art photographs. And finally, I added my two marker planks for the 2nd planking. This roughly follows the slope of the main deck as opposed to the curvature of the hull.
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Sort of. And thanks. I did taper planks and bevel the edges to get a pretty smooth fit with the minimum of lateral twist...although not as much as should be done for the reason you pointed out, the thickness of the wood allows some margin so sand out the clinker and it's a base layer and won't be visible. If it was a single plank hull then yes the planks would have to be shaped as yes you would still be able to sand them down but they would be visible and wouldn't look as good.
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Finally finished the first planking, sanded and smoothed not shiney smooth though otherwise there would be no key for the 2nd planking to fix to. Pics below show before and after sanding.
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Sheets A, B, C, D, G and J all show the position of the strake at the bow, albeit a small section due to showing the cutaway side. Unfortunately those plans aren't at 1:1 scale but should be enough for you to approximate it pretty closely.
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Look through your plan sheets. They should be at 1:1 scale so you can take the measurements from those to position the strakes.
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No-ones fault. Just the nature of ply. The larger, or longer a single piece is, the more likely it is to warp. It's an unfortunate scenario that is generally unavoidable. Of course there are corrective measures but these can take days sometimes weeks. That's why I much prefer multi-part keels, less likely to occur as the parts are shorter, although it still happens. Don't worry too much, I don't think I have built and planked a keel/frame set yet where at least one frame was out of line, and to be honest once you get to the other end of the build unless it is a massive kink, only you will notice it. If it is any comfort, my Santa Maria had a warped keel right at the stern between the last frame and the end, worse still it was twisted on two axis! I was lucky as it was minor and I was able to pull it straight by way of the false deck. Doing a great job so far
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Mike if you did decide in the future I am sure you must have a Home Bargains somewhere near you? If you don't and want to buy a job lot sometime, let me know and you can send me the money and I can go get it for you and post it up Also, I have found with it once you have opened a new tube, through the black lid away! It's as useful as a chocolate kettle! Instead, a map pin fits snugly in the in the nozel and makes an airtight seal, so the metal of the pin won't stick to the plastic of the nozel as there is no air to complete the chemical reaction. Even if you don't use it for planking this time, it has a range of other uses just within ship modelling.
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Runny CA makes a mess...but you can buy it in differing thickness' from CMB...or use a gel...if you wanted to go down that route anyway.
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Grand job Mike, be proud of that hull! Sod the second planking, just stain it walnut and varnish it job done! LOL no just kidding, although you'd probably be able to get away with it. Me personally I use Cyano for the second planking, mainly because they sell Locktite Superglue Gel near me for a £1 a tube, instead of £5 a time! The gell is much better as the thin veneer doesn't soak it up and it does give you a few second manouvering. If you're unsure though I'd stick with PVA, as once stuck...you can get it off but it can be a bit fiddly and damaging.
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Just another very quick update on the planking progress so far. Nothing else to report. So a pretty boring post really.
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Thanks Capt.F I agree with you most of these kits allow very little or no margin for error...they expect everyone to be able to build as perfect as their modellers do. Although have to say...in their Santa Maria kit that I am building now, the studio model that was used to provide the photo's for the colour guide...well who ever was building it did a p**s poor job on the first planking! Makes me feel much better
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Hiya Capt.F. Looking great so far. I'm glad I am not the only one who takes advantage of the thickness of planks allowing for sanding and not worry about the slight clinker effect It's comforting. Can I ask...how short was the supply of planking? I am going to be getting this kit later this year and want to know what I am letting myself in for...and whether I should think about ordering replacement wood at the same time as the kit itself?
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They definately aren't the same kit, I can answer that with 100% certainty. There are quite visible differences. AL has two launches for example, Oc only has one. Oc has a more square sail right above the launches, (sorry I don't know the term), where as AL's sails are triangular. AL's version: http://www.artesanialatina.net/articulo.aspx?ref=22810&des=bounty-99-con-velas-cosidas OcCre's version: http://www.occre.com/model-ship/frigate-bounty.html Both from their own webpages. Danny thanks for the answer about the oddities with scale/dimensions, I was wondering why the numbers seemed back to front, but that makes sense now.
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Nope nothing, same with their Victory 1/84...which at almost £800 retail you'd think they could stretch to a stand
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Looking good. Did yours come with a stand/cradle ?
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Hi again. After finishing the work above decks, it's time to start the planking. I won't go into too much detail nor post many updates until the first planking is finished as it's pretty repetative stuff. I started with a full length strake right below the pre-fab bulwarks, sloping upward slightly at the bow. Following that I filled in the gaps at the bow above that strake, then added another one below the first one. Then switched to the keel and fitted the garboard. The small triangular gap at the stern below the garboard I won't add these first planks, as when I add the veneer they would be much wider than the stern post/rudder, and sanding then thinner and tapering them would result in a in-out-in bump and would look just...wrong!
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See now that wasn't too bad was it? Great work though. If I can make one observation and give a little advice for the next time though. On the closed side, you maybe tapered the planks a little too far back from the bow. Generally you will find the taper only needs to start at about the 3rd frame-ish. That's what you ended up with a slightly up-down across the length around the middle of the hull. First planking doesn't matter as long as it is smooth which it looks like it is. Good work!
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Thanks Keith. I used short lengths of dowels to support the deck supports on my Soveriegn, however there wasn't even any cross beam supports on this one. It didn't really need any, but I felt it was just a little too flexi at the wider end for comfort. Indeed as I found out earler it could have done with one right at the back, as it had sagged slightly in the middle and I had to clamp it inplace when fixing the stern backplate.
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Hiya AL. I wouldn't take my planking as red for anything. I wasn't able to find any accurate information on how the planking would have been done on the SM so really I improvised. In relality my method wouldn't have been used, especially with the 7cm length and 2cm gaps resulting in a 1cm gap every 4th plank. That was more of a cock up on my part than anything else. I did think about marking the treenails across the width, but I tried it and I didn't really like how it was looking. Perhaps if I was cocktail sticking the treenails it would have looked better but as I was purely simulating it...I build for asthetics over accuracy. As for the companion way holes I planked over, marking their perimiter as I went and cutting away afterwards, simply to make working out the position of the next plank easier.
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I've finished planking the quarter deck and sanding etc. When dry fitting I noticed there was no support across the middle, and I felt this would potentially cause an issue later on. I had some columns spare and found the two of these glued end to end fitting just right. So I made 6 columns and stained them with walnut and varnished them no rather than try and do it later. I fitted them evenly but recessed so they wouldn't interfere with anything to be fitted later. Once that was done I fitted the quarter deck and planked the bulwarks and rear wall.
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That is some exquisitly neat work there sir!
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