Bill Tuttle

Eddie,
 
This is an age old problem with me too.  When I started building models, I used the rigging supplied with kits, black and a manila color.  As my skills or maybe obsessions progressed i began to make my own rigging and found it necessary to color it.  At first, I followed the advice of many and stained the standing rigging with Minwax Jacobean and the running rigging with a mix of Golden Oak and Special Walnut adding and wiping until I got the desired color.
 
I later ran into an article written by Erik Ronnberg who recommended Liquid Shoe Polish instead of the oil based stains, I believe stating that the oil based stains would eventually deteriorate.  So I then switched over to a mix of brown shoe polish and black until I achieved the desired effect.  This seemed to work nicely.
 
Then along comes a new article my Erik, who I respect greatly, that is stating problems with fading on the shoe polish and recommends an oil based paint or dye mixed with turpentine and further dissolving bees wax in this mixture saving the independent processes.  I tried this but was having trouble with the colors so I began using a water based dye stain and independently dissolved bees wax in turpentine and carefully pull the rigging through a piece of cotton dipped in the mixture.  This seems to work nicely for me.  
 
Sorry I hope this helps some, I still use the shoe polish on the standing rigging because I need to match what was already completed on this model some time ago when I was struggling through on these trials.  I guess I am so fearful of problems occurring with some of these processes because of my early use of CA glue on rigging and the horrid deterioration that it caused over a period of about 20 years or so.  Good Luck!  I hope I have not rambled too much and further confused the matter.

I believe Robere's post sums it up perfectly. And furthermore I have seen some real good buys recently on these machines. 

I believe Robere's post sums it up perfectly. And furthermore I have seen some real good buys recently on these machines. 

I believe Robere's post sums it up perfectly. And furthermore I have seen some real good buys recently on these machines. 

Jim,
 
You have received some excellent advice from all of the replies.  I purchased a Cameron Drill press about 40 years ago from a professional modelmaker.  I have had excellent performance from it and their service is beyond compare as well as advice over the phone.  As, I believe Kurt mentioned it is overkill but I find it very useful when I am making blocks or something that requires a lot of repeat work, using one of the X/Y vices I believe was made by Charlie Files, the manufacturer of the Preac Table saw.  You will never be sorry you bought it and service as well as parts, have been available for years.  If you are still interested I would recommend a look at their website and a call to their service folks.  They have always been very helpful to me but I have never had a need for any replacement parts on my old machine.  

Jim,
 
You have received some excellent advice from all of the replies.  I purchased a Cameron Drill press about 40 years ago from a professional modelmaker.  I have had excellent performance from it and their service is beyond compare as well as advice over the phone.  As, I believe Kurt mentioned it is overkill but I find it very useful when I am making blocks or something that requires a lot of repeat work, using one of the X/Y vices I believe was made by Charlie Files, the manufacturer of the Preac Table saw.  You will never be sorry you bought it and service as well as parts, have been available for years.  If you are still interested I would recommend a look at their website and a call to their service folks.  They have always been very helpful to me but I have never had a need for any replacement parts on my old machine.  

Jim,
 
You have received some excellent advice from all of the replies.  I purchased a Cameron Drill press about 40 years ago from a professional modelmaker.  I have had excellent performance from it and their service is beyond compare as well as advice over the phone.  As, I believe Kurt mentioned it is overkill but I find it very useful when I am making blocks or something that requires a lot of repeat work, using one of the X/Y vices I believe was made by Charlie Files, the manufacturer of the Preac Table saw.  You will never be sorry you bought it and service as well as parts, have been available for years.  If you are still interested I would recommend a look at their website and a call to their service folks.  They have always been very helpful to me but I have never had a need for any replacement parts on my old machine.  

Benjamin,
 
Dremel made a small inexpensive lathe years ago.  It would serve you well for the small wooden things like, cannons etc.  I have never been much for turning spars finding that these are better made on a long cutting surface with a small plane and sand paper. 
 
The little Dremel would give you some experience that you would find useful when you move up to a metal working lathe.  I would offer the suggestion to watch ebay for one of these and follow Bob's advice to save your money for the future purchase.  I had one of these years ago before I purchased a Unimat III and it worked well for me.  I may even have that laying around somewhere and will look and see if I can find it.  
 
Bill

Benjamin,
 
Dremel made a small inexpensive lathe years ago.  It would serve you well for the small wooden things like, cannons etc.  I have never been much for turning spars finding that these are better made on a long cutting surface with a small plane and sand paper. 
 
The little Dremel would give you some experience that you would find useful when you move up to a metal working lathe.  I would offer the suggestion to watch ebay for one of these and follow Bob's advice to save your money for the future purchase.  I had one of these years ago before I purchased a Unimat III and it worked well for me.  I may even have that laying around somewhere and will look and see if I can find it.  
 
Bill

Excellent advice from Chris, Never use CA on rigging anywhere except to treat the end of your rigging to stiffen it when you thread it through a block or other small hole.  I built kits years ago using CA and it has since crumbled or destroyed many of the knots where I employed it.  In those past years, it was recommended by many but it hadn't been time tested.  Diluted PVA glue is perfect for the job and the clove hitches are very easy to do.

I think many of us just like to create 'things' with their hands and working with hand-tools. So this manual creation process is part of the hobby, not only the finished product as such. There are also others, like me, who are spending a good deal of their wake hours in front of a computer screen and are afraid that becomes even worse, when getting in CAD/CAM beyond the mere creation of the 'blue-prints' (which have become obsolete with CAD) for their models.
 
Having said that, about a couple of years ago I bought a low-power LED-laser, which is compatible with my working environment (not having a separate workshop with water connection and forced aeration) and I have used it quite a bit on my current project.
 
I have been pondering 3D printing since the mid-2000s, but it took a long time, before precision and resolution came into a range that is useful for my ambitions - not talking about prices. Again, a resin-printer is not quite compatible with my current working environment.
 
I gather that the logistics involved in running high-end machines are quite demanding and therefore prohibitive for many people.

This is a very simple rope walk to build with parts easily obtainable. I built this some years ago and with a little bit of experience turns out beautiful rope. I used the motor off an old Emesco dentist drill which gives me the capability to throw a switch and reverse the direction of the motor. I also purchased the “Jim” rope walk but was in the middle of rigging a model and did not have time to devote to learning the nuances of the machine at the time to produce really nice rope. That is on my list of things to do in the near future. Just really wanted to praise the simplicity and value of the “Phil Kroll” model for anyone considering building one. 

I am not familiar with that particular pin vise but it does look like a nice one.  In recent years the China versions have been very cheaply made.  Check out Ebay for a couple of Starretts and you will never be disappointed.

I am not familiar with that particular pin vise but it does look like a nice one.  In recent years the China versions have been very cheaply made.  Check out Ebay for a couple of Starretts and you will never be disappointed.

Picked up a cheap Oral-B 500 toothbrush on ebay and made an oscillating detail sander from it.  Pulled the bristles out of the head and glued a small piece of sandpaper on it.  Tried it out on the hull of a model I am working on and it worked great.  Produces a nice smooth surface.  I am not going to trying using coarse sandpaper with it as I think it would be to aggressive.  The head oscillates at a high rate.

I agree with you.  I was a Commercial Banker for 40 years and in the early years of my career when I did consumer lending you could tell a customer to go ahead and write a check and come in and sign the note later.  Couldn't do that now.  
 
Mihail's service as well as Jim's is beyond compare.  I just hope someone else jumps on these carving tools.  They are really great tools. 
 
There is a learning curve on sharpening and I am still a novice on these.  I use shapton ceramic stones on my chisels and planes and can put an edge on those that scares me but these tiny little gouges are not easy.  I am even sharpening them under a low powered microscope.  I am getting better just have to use a light touch.

Jeff
 
I use Two Cherries micro chisels
https://www.craftsmanstudio.com/Two-Cherries-Micro-Carving-Tool-Set6_p_353.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwr56IBhAvEiwA1fuqGgOwMvoBlyTXykDOBJExwO5mdlrDPqYwSPoq7x7BJIzHDHj2SWDn-hoCltAQAvD_BwE
 
And i also have this set from Lee Valley
 
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/carving-tools/gouges/47816-hirsch-micro-carving-tools?item=61S0015&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=CjwKCAjwr56IBhAvEiwA1fuqGus4E3_D77hTumBLfRIPwzYWPGiSwH8bzOB1bOwKsYabm2a9USn98hoCXGMQAvD_BwE
 
They are not palm chisels but are only 6" long and go down to .5mm and are excellent quality
 
Used them on this
 
Jim
 
 
 
 
 
 

I would agree with all of the folks who recommended Starrett.  When I started building models most of the pin vices were at least acceptable and some very good but they seem to have all gotten cheaper as production of these has moved to China.  You can always count on Starrett and they can be bought used at a very reasonable price on E-Bay.  Likewise on the drill gauges.  The old General used to be fairly decent but now it is hard to tell the difference in many of the holes side by side.  I also use only Starrett from E-bay for drill gauges.

I would agree with all of the folks who recommended Starrett.  When I started building models most of the pin vices were at least acceptable and some very good but they seem to have all gotten cheaper as production of these has moved to China.  You can always count on Starrett and they can be bought used at a very reasonable price on E-Bay.  Likewise on the drill gauges.  The old General used to be fairly decent but now it is hard to tell the difference in many of the holes side by side.  I also use only Starrett from E-bay for drill gauges.

I would agree with all of the folks who recommended Starrett.  When I started building models most of the pin vices were at least acceptable and some very good but they seem to have all gotten cheaper as production of these has moved to China.  You can always count on Starrett and they can be bought used at a very reasonable price on E-Bay.  Likewise on the drill gauges.  The old General used to be fairly decent but now it is hard to tell the difference in many of the holes side by side.  I also use only Starrett from E-bay for drill gauges.

I would agree with all of the folks who recommended Starrett.  When I started building models most of the pin vices were at least acceptable and some very good but they seem to have all gotten cheaper as production of these has moved to China.  You can always count on Starrett and they can be bought used at a very reasonable price on E-Bay.  Likewise on the drill gauges.  The old General used to be fairly decent but now it is hard to tell the difference in many of the holes side by side.  I also use only Starrett from E-bay for drill gauges.

I would agree with all of the folks who recommended Starrett.  When I started building models most of the pin vices were at least acceptable and some very good but they seem to have all gotten cheaper as production of these has moved to China.  You can always count on Starrett and they can be bought used at a very reasonable price on E-Bay.  Likewise on the drill gauges.  The old General used to be fairly decent but now it is hard to tell the difference in many of the holes side by side.  I also use only Starrett from E-bay for drill gauges.

I am getting into this way too late but what about PegBoards.  I never seem to have enough pegboard space or wall to house them.

I am getting into this way too late but what about PegBoards.  I never seem to have enough pegboard space or wall to house them.

I am getting into this way too late but what about PegBoards.  I never seem to have enough pegboard space or wall to house them.