dvm27

Very impressive model. I have been fascinated with Ketch rigs for a long time, they have a uniqueness about them as there never seemed very many throughout nautical history. Most seem to have been private fishing or small cargo vessels. Enjoying your blog and looking forward to more.
 
Brian D.

Amazing work!

Thank you everyone that has helped me so far on this build I can't express my gratitude enough. Without it I would've certainly given up by now, but here I am with a touch of progress. I finally conquered my fear and tackled one of the top timbers on frame 3 aft. I'll go through my process in case it is of help to anyone (I can guarantee there are better ways but this made sense in my head. I first cut the piece out of a thicker piece of AYC to account for the cast (11.5" to account for the 2.5" cast on the 9" frame). I then used my micro mill to cut out the mostly straight portion of the forward cast (I did some editing of the frames and sided dimensions in photoshop to determine approximately where this line would be.


I then flipped the piece over to create a notch at 8.5" to help with the curved section. As an aside I used my Byrnes table saw and NRG thin strip jig (still trying to figure out the best way to set this up, but I got there) to cut a strip at 2.5" to help hold everything in the right place when I'm working and eventually clamping and gluing the piece to the frame.

Finally I drew the curve in, and rough sanded it out.

It isn't perfect (I unfortunately took a little chip out where the timbers meet - see below) but I'm pretty happy and proud that I was able to get here. Of course now to do the second one but the garage is so hot I need to hydrate and eat lunch.  

Thanks for following along!
 

May I suggest you apply 1-2 layers of Tamiya tape to the keel, stem and sternpost before fairing in the treenails. An errant swipe of the sandpaper can create scratches that are difficult to remove later.

Personal preference is key here Malcolm but to me a well tunneled deck or hull does not look like treenails were used until you get very, very close and then they are only faintly visible. It should be like "why did I go through all that effort as you can barely see them"? But they are there and you know it.

I love whatever rendering process you are using. Looks very Van de Velde like.

Personal preference is key here Malcolm but to me a well tunneled deck or hull does not look like treenails were used until you get very, very close and then they are only faintly visible. It should be like "why did I go through all that effort as you can barely see them"? But they are there and you know it.

Personal preference is key here Malcolm but to me a well tunneled deck or hull does not look like treenails were used until you get very, very close and then they are only faintly visible. It should be like "why did I go through all that effort as you can barely see them"? But they are there and you know it.

May I suggest you apply 1-2 layers of Tamiya tape to the keel, stem and sternpost before fairing in the treenails. An errant swipe of the sandpaper can create scratches that are difficult to remove later.

May I suggest you apply 1-2 layers of Tamiya tape to the keel, stem and sternpost before fairing in the treenails. An errant swipe of the sandpaper can create scratches that are difficult to remove later.

That was quick! Well done, Kevin.

May I suggest you apply 1-2 layers of Tamiya tape to the keel, stem and sternpost before fairing in the treenails. An errant swipe of the sandpaper can create scratches that are difficult to remove later.

May I suggest you apply 1-2 layers of Tamiya tape to the keel, stem and sternpost before fairing in the treenails. An errant swipe of the sandpaper can create scratches that are difficult to remove later.

2120 installed so far.

Good morning everyone, after more than a year of not updating the site due to various problems I had, I am resuming even though the model has continued. 
 
 
Un Saluto.

The size of the window panes would depend on what material/process was available at the respective time and region. If I remember correctly (didn't cross-check on Wikipedia ...) float-glass was invented at the end of the 18th century in France (the glass-maker, St. Gobain, are still one of the biggest manufacturers in the Western world). So, French ships might have had larger panes, then could be traditionally made by blowing a cylinder, cutting it up lengthwise and then flattening it out.
 
Thinking about the problem, I wonder, whether it would be feasible to cut the frame-pieces from styrene strips and assemble these on a drawing of the respective window, as David suggested. If you go for rectangular cross-sections of the strips, you don't need to bother with mitres. However, if you were giving them a profile with a scraper, you would need to mitre them - but this would be quite a challenge in 1:192 scale, I think. In a next step you can cut the individual panes from clear styrene-sheet, fit them carefully and then drop them into the grille with some liquid styrene-cement.
 
A 'cheaper' variant of the above would be to assemble the above grille with water-soluble glue on a drawing and then to cement a clear styrene-sheet onto the back. The drawing then can be removed by soaking the assembly in water.

The belaying pins are now installed in their shroud deflectors. That's a term I had never read before but that's what they're called according to Markquardt. Perhaps they're called pin rails only when affixed to the inner bulwarks. The deflectors have grooves filed on the outboard edge for the shrouds and lashings inboard and are surprisingly strong once attached.  At any rate, I was able to hone my lathe technique to turn out consistent pins. Next it's on to ratlines. Perhaps Archjofo would fly in from Germany to show me how he successfully duplicated actual practice when securing them to the outer shrouds. Personally. I believe he used Photoshop as this is not humanly possible to do.
 

Those attending our Admiralty Models Workshop in two weeks will be amongst the first to see this collection in a private showing!

Those attending our Admiralty Models Workshop in two weeks will be amongst the first to see this collection in a private showing!

I finally finished installing channels, deadeyes and chains after a long time.

The belaying pins are now installed in their shroud deflectors. That's a term I had never read before but that's what they're called according to Markquardt. Perhaps they're called pin rails only when affixed to the inner bulwarks. The deflectors have grooves filed on the outboard edge for the shrouds and lashings inboard and are surprisingly strong once attached.  At any rate, I was able to hone my lathe technique to turn out consistent pins. Next it's on to ratlines. Perhaps Archjofo would fly in from Germany to show me how he successfully duplicated actual practice when securing them to the outer shrouds. Personally. I believe he used Photoshop as this is not humanly possible to do.
 

Those volute scrolls would do a violin maker proud!

Those volute scrolls would do a violin maker proud!

Those volute scrolls would do a violin maker proud!

Those volute scrolls would do a violin maker proud!