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Everything posted by cdogg
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Thanks. I need to build a base for the ship. I really didn't like the one that came with the kit. Last night I sprayed primer on about 100 small metal parts, hopefully this week I'll have her close to ready for rigging.
- 98 replies
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- baltic ketch
- corel
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Well, it's been a while but I got this ship going again. Decided on a darker shade of yellow, "sunflower" for the stripe. The railing was a slight pain but a lot of water and jigs helped out. I was worried about the rudder but it went fairly smooth.
- 98 replies
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- baltic ketch
- corel
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Hey guys Sygreen- don't worry about the appearance of the first layer, just make sure it is smooth, it's for forming the hull. I didn't do a great job at this and it really got me on the second layer. As for the taping of the planks, I did that for the second layer. Make sure you leave the strips in water for an hour or so, so they bend easy, then use the nails to get the strips On the bulkheads. Also, sand that first layer a lot and use wood filler for gaps. Looks great so far!
- 139 replies
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I just looked it up. For #27 just bend it with water, let it dry in the shape you need, and then wrap it parallel with the front piece, not the middle deck. The side will go about 3mm above the sides to make a railing. Make sense?
- 139 replies
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The Corsair looks awesome man. Nice job. I haven't been around the site for a while, glad to see what you've done.
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Welcome back, what is piece 27? Also, there are planking tutorials on the site, do a search. They are pretty good.
- 139 replies
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Looks good, I'm a big fan of the midwest kits, have fun!
- 15 replies
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- chesapeake bay flattie
- midwest products
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Maybe. But I will pose a question, if you varnish the deck before placing the deck components and housing, make sure you know what kind of glue you'll need to fasten these over the varnished deck.
- 139 replies
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Sygreen, it should be fine. Only problem I had is the pencil lead smudging because if my fingers.
- 139 replies
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sygreen, you build looks good. For the planks, take a pencil to the top side if the desk plank you will have facing up, this will help define the division of planks and look like deck caulking.
- 139 replies
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Balsa wood can be used for filling gaps between bulkheads, you can never have enough. You have any updated pics of the build? I hope you didn't become a Cowboys fan while you were in Dallas!
- 37 replies
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What do you mean by frayed? I dampen the deck planks with water and rubbing alcohol and trim them with a scalpel.
- 139 replies
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Sorry fish, CA is cyanoacrylate glue, super glue found at hobby stores. I prefer the slow drying one, the drying times are actually listed on the bottle.
- 37 replies
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My glue did the same, it straightened them out with a little CA. Not the preferred method but it worked!
- 37 replies
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I think I used 90mm. Take the plans and draw both on paper, use the one that looks best!
- 139 replies
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Looks great! I used the 2 method on the deck planking, maybe the 3 would be cool? I just went by the book since it was first time deck planking.
- 139 replies
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frame protrudes from deck
cdogg replied to harbm's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The instructions aren't clear but you will see you have to angle those along with the filler piece. I think sygreen has this in his build log. This will fix that. Better too long than too short. -
I think I filed them down, if you haven't glues it yet maybe compare the bulkhead to the part in the plans in the back of the book, it may help the alteration of the piece.
- 33 replies
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- corel
- first build
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Easy fix, you will need to use a scalpel and scrap free the deck from each bulkhead. It will work but it may take a while. See the top view in your picture, you will need to expand the opening for the deck house on the deck platform. That's the cause, it's not formed correctly from the kit.
- 33 replies
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- corel
- first build
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new clear product!! WoW
cdogg replied to leroy's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I will check it out, I was thinking about a hull finish like that for my Midwest Sloop kit, thanks -
Yes, I'll take a pic of mine tomorrow, actually I looked the manual, step 21. It's looks bad from above but it will look like that from front/rear.
- 139 replies
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You want a little bit of "hips" at the top, check out pictures of ships from those days. The middle ones should stick out about 1-2mm. Also, I'm a lifetime Minnesota North Stars fan. The Wild are ok but it just ain't the same!
- 139 replies
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