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captainbob

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by captainbob

  1. Congratulations on a first water test. If you put threaded nuts, stainless, in the bottom of the keel you will be able to mount any type of ballast. Bob
  2. What a great time of the year, not only the holidays, but all the college football games. I’m not going to get much done on this build for the next three weeks. I did manage however to clean up the bulkheads and dry fit them, that’s when I found out #14 (third from end) was bad. You can see in the first picture #14 is not big enough. So it was back to the drawing board, so to speak, I use DraftSight, and I did find the error. Picture two shows both #14 bulkheads and then how the new part lines up. And with that I’ll say Merry Christmas to all, with wishes for a great 2014. Bob
  3. A schooner with two topsail masts has spring lines from one to the other. When tacking does the fore topsail have to be lowered and reset on the other side of these lines? Bob
  4. Tom, congratulations on a job well done. The molding is great even with Andy’s dentures, I mean dentals. Bob
  5. Fine work, Michael. And it's about time you got around to making the foreman a chair. Bob
  6. Keith, I was going to answer but John and Frankie beat me to it. Thanks friends. Tom, I bought 1/8” plywood for the profile and bulkheads. As for the larger slots, yes they are the masts and the foremost is for the Sampson post which would not have to go below decks on a model but I put the slot in anyway. The rake of the masts is shown on the inner profile drawings. Popeye, Michael & Augie thanks for the well wishes. And yes, Popeye I have copies of the bulkhead drawings I made. Bob
  7. Pavel and Keith, thanks for stopping by and for the good words. Keith, in entry >5 you see the Lettie under sail and from the shape of the sails you can tell the wind is cuming from the starboard side. But looking at the fore jib, it is still sheeted on the starboard side and the clew is on the wrong side of the main jib. Backing a sail is forcing it against the wind so as to cause the boat to go backwards. The jib in this case is not large enough to reverse the boat but the term still applies. Bob
  8. Finally! I made sawdust today. I cut the parts out on the skill saw now I need to go back and sand to the line, but it feels good to get started. I should mark the date somewhere, like in the records of ships where you see, “KEEL LAID ON:” Dec 18, 2013. I decided to go POB for this boat. You can see my CAD drawing on letter size paper in the picture. The box with the 2” inside gives me the size to enlarge to. If anyone wants a copy let me know. Bob
  9. Popeye, Keep the creative spirit. This hobby needs people like you. Michael was talking about design creativity in modeling over in http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4687-building-rational-and-design/ . I for one love watching you build. Bob
  10. Thanks for showing your work. As I said I had never tried it myself but had heard it was good. And yours looks fine. Bob
  11. Isopropyl alcohol makes a nice thinner. I’ve used it many times, of course in those days nobody heard of epoxy thinners. A warning. If you are not using fiber, (glass, nylon stockings, . . .) you need to build up the thickness of the epoxy for strength. I have seen the wood of the hull swell and shrink with moisture and/or weather enough to open the seams between the planks. Bob
  12. Shawn, It is the glass that gives the resin strength. But I have heard of using nylon stockings instead of glass. That would also be strong and I would think easier to apply. I never liked fiber glassing either. Bob
  13. Steve & Stan, thanks for stopping by. Haven’t had a chance to get to town yet for the wood. Hopefully tomorrow. Bob
  14. Clare, Glad the nerve is feeling better. You’ll have to do a tutorial on how to etch brass. I’ve never been able to come close to your quality. Good work. Bob
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