captainbob

Lawrence,  thanks for stopping by.  I wish I were farther along but due to chronic family health problems, I only get to work on the boats, 1 - 2 hours a day, if that.  The rest of the time I'm the care giver, cook, House cleaner and . . .  Enough of that.  The Mariefred is a riveted steel boat.  And I like Nils I hope to plate her, something I've never tried before.  The other problem is figuring out what to use for some of the parts.  The upper deck supports and seating frames are 35 X 35 mm angle iron or 1.38" at scale that is .0138.  I have seen other models where they have used larger material for these parts and they end up looking bulky and out of scale.  Ah well that's the kind of problem all model builders go through.  I know, I'll set up a foundry and extrude my own material.  (Pardon the humor).
 
Bob

Nice clean installation, Mike.
 
Bob

I have moved ahead with the subdeck. I wanted to install this prior to finishing the sanding of the outer hull so I could have a little more rigidity while I complete the hull fairing. First I cut and fitted the paper template and then used the template to make and fit the actual subdeck. Once the subdeck is glued in place, I can proceed with hull fairing and then planking. Here are the photos.
 
Russ

A bunch of progress over the weekend.  The deck planking was extended to the center-line, then scraped even.  It's surprising how much variation in installed planks there was even though they were all thicknessed at once.
 



I built up the Elm Tree Pumps...standard design from either Echo or Cheerful plans.
 

One of the arms needs some straightening out a bit.  Once the handle is in, it will hold just fine.  The pump tubes are <1' (octagonal) (<1/4") and stand about 3.5' above the deck.   Not shown are the exit tubes (3/32" brass tubing) or the plunger rod.  Reinforcing bands are black paper painted "Iron Black".  The handles will be shortened a bit.
Maury
 

Part 7 – Frames


 
 
The HAER documentation says that Kathryn’s frames are ‘highly irregular’, rather than giving dimensions.  After measuring the frames in several of the drawings I decided to use a sided dimension of 4” and a moulded dimension starting at 5” at the sheer and increasing to 8” for most frames.  This makes the frames of the model 1/8” thick, and varying from just over 1/8” to ¼” in the moulded dimension.  All frames are single frames, so on the model they will be quite fragile until supported by the interior and exterior planking and other components.
 
 
Since Kathryn’s sides and bottom are flat, there are no curves to contend with in the frames – other than the rounded chine.  The following is the drawing for frame 12 – the forward-most square frame:
 
 

 
Pin-indexing is used to ensure the pieces of the frame line up with the drawing.  EdT in his Young America build log gives a good description of pin-indexing, and I also included it in my Dunbrody build log, so I won’t go into a lot of detail here.
 
Individual frame pieces as well as the pinning template for the frame are marked using a prick punch
 
 

 
And are then drilled using the Sensitive Drilling Attachment on the milling machine.
 
 

 
The frame pieces are then trimmed to the printed lines using the disk sander.
 
 

 
The frames will be very delicate, and there won’t be much glue surface keeping the frame components together or keeping them attached to the keelson, so some additional reinforcing is required.  The frames will eventually be secured to the keelson with structural bolts, and the joint of the frame pieces will be reinforced by dowels, so pilot holes need to be drilled.  The holes for the structural bolts are at an approximate 45 degree angle, so these holes need to be started with a center drill as shown in the following photo.
 
 

 
The pilot holes are then drilled in the frame components.
 
 

 
The drill used for pin indexing is a #63 drill, and the best approach is to use the sensitive drilling attachment for this drilling.  However, the drill used for pilot holes for the reinforcing bolts and dowels is a #55, and the best approach for this drilling is to use the z-axis hand-wheel to get sufficient force in the drilling.  This would normally mean constant changing of drills and chucks, but I’m fortunate to have another solution in my shop.
 
 
I’ve tried miniature drill presses, but have not been happy with the ‘less expensive’ options (less expensive until an x-y table is added).  Recently, Sherline offered a discount on the milling column for the lathe.  This attachment serves very nicely as a second drilling station (or mill if necessary), so I now have the sensitive drilling attachment with the #63 drill in the milling machine, and a chuck with a #55 drill in the milling column on the lathe and have no need to change drills or chucks in the middle of the process.
 
 

 
Constructing the frame consists of aligning the pieces by laying the bottom piece on top of the side piece (using the pins for alignment)
 
 

 
Then using a hobby knife to mark the joint on the side piece of the frame.
 
 

 
After the side piece is trimmed to fit using the disk sander, the pieces are then glued in place and left to cure.
 
 

 
When the gluing is completed, the hole for the reinforcing dowel is drilled into the side piece of the frame.
 
 

 
The dowel is glued into the frame and clipped off.
 
 

 
Since the frames are mortised into the keelson on each side, aligning the frame on the keelson requires that each side is aligned separately to allow for possible mis-alignment of the mortises.  A jig is used for this purpose.  This is the same jig that was used to align the Dunbrody frames.
 
 

 
In addition to the jig, a template for the frame, consisting of the frame drawing cemented onto a flat piece of 1/16” thick basswood, is clamped to the framing jig and aligned with the centerline.
 
 

 

 
 
The frame piece is clamped to the framing template while the glue attaching the frame half to the keelson cures.
 
 

 
 
The same process is followed for the opposite side of the frame.  The following photo shows the first frame (#12) installed.  Only 25 frames to go.
 
 

 
One last item:  I wanted a modeling setup that would allow me to work on all sides of the build without turning the shipway.  It would also be ideal if I could raise or lower the model depending on what was being worked on at the time.  I was able to find an adjustable table in IKEA – known as a Skarsta sit/stand table.  Using a simple hand crank, the table extends from a minimum height of 27.5”
 
 

 
to a maximum height of 47.25”
 
 

 
 
My old back is very grateful for the working height!!
 
 

 
 
Thanks everyone (and thank you IKEA!)!

Thanks, mike for the offer of help.
I agree Kees.  I love the looks of the turn of the century boats.
Dr. Per, I really don't mind others entering information of my log, as long as it is pertinent to the build.
 
Bob

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

Thanks, mike for the offer of help.
I agree Kees.  I love the looks of the turn of the century boats.
Dr. Per, I really don't mind others entering information of my log, as long as it is pertinent to the build.
 
Bob

This should be fun.
Bob

Thanks, mike for the offer of help.
I agree Kees.  I love the looks of the turn of the century boats.
Dr. Per, I really don't mind others entering information of my log, as long as it is pertinent to the build.
 
Bob

Thanks, mike for the offer of help.
I agree Kees.  I love the looks of the turn of the century boats.
Dr. Per, I really don't mind others entering information of my log, as long as it is pertinent to the build.
 
Bob

Thanks, mike for the offer of help.
I agree Kees.  I love the looks of the turn of the century boats.
Dr. Per, I really don't mind others entering information of my log, as long as it is pertinent to the build.
 
Bob

On Thé deck 
 

Hi Dan,
now thats a challenge in 1:350 !!
I remember when the "Michelangelo" together with her sister "Raffaello" set the Italian elegance bar for design of fast Atlantic liners, and what a sight in those days !
Congrats to your choise, a very ambitious project you are preparing for, but I know you can do it, and I wish you all the best with this lovely build...
 
Nils

This should be fun.
Bob

Good looking hull.
Bob

This should be fun.
Bob

This should be fun.
Bob

Mariefred
The coal-fired steamship Mariefred was built in 1903 for the trade-Enhörna Stockholm-Mariefred. She has sailed under the same name and with the same steam engine ever since.  The vessel has been owned by the same shipping company, Gripsholms-Mariefred Ångfartygs AB since 1905. All this makes Mariefred one of the worldwide unique ships and an indispensable part of Sweden's cultural heritage! 
Built at South wharf in Stockholm in 1903. Length 32.84 m, width 6.33 m. Coal-fired steam boiler.  Speed 10 knots.  230 passengers.
 
 

I've seen this boat from kits but never from scratch.
Bob

I've seen this boat from kits but never from scratch.
Bob

This should be fun.
Bob

Good looking hull.
Bob

Hello all - 
 
Welcome to those of you who followed my build log of my previous ocean liner, the SS Andrea Doria.  If you have not seen it, you can reach it by clicking the link below my profile, below.
 
The Michelangelo was a slightly newer ship and sleeker in appearance.
 
 
To give myself a bit more of a challenge, the model is being built to the scale of 1/350 rather than 1/200 as were my previous liner models.  This means that the model's overall length is just over 31", which is a reasonable size for home display.  I hope to still incorporate the same level of detail as at the larger scale, with some windows laser cut and others done with custom decals.  Railings, ladders, etc. will be done in photoetched brass, and let me tell you, those pieces are tiny!   
 
The primary challenge of the build will be to replicate the cages around the funnels at this scale.  The cages are one of the most visually appealing aspects of the ship, and were magnets for publicity photographs and even made it to the cover of the New York Times Magazine section.  Nice shape, don't you think?

 
As usual, my research began with trolling the internet, various books and other publications for images of the ship that would confirm and supplement the engineering drawings that would be ordered from the Italian naval archives.  Out of about a thousand images some 200 were selected that were of such sufficient clarity and resolution to be useful.  The covered almost every aspect of the ship, from her construction in the Anseldo Shipyards in Genoa
 
to her ultimate end in the Pakistani breakers yard in 1991
 
Next time I will go into the process that I used to go from the plans to a laid-up basswood hull.
 
Until then, be well
 
Dan