captainbob
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captainbob got a reaction from themadchemist in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Now, on to the pilot house, it has a round front with three windows. First I drew a top view to get the spacing. The windows are .28” wide with .06” between them. The windows are flat while the structure curves. I cut the windows undersize and glued the panel to the curved top and bottom before I trimmed away the excess. I then put tape on the panel to show the limits of the windows and cut and sanded the windows to size. On the fourth try it worked. I made the side and back panels the same way. Now its paint and add the wood trim around the windows. Then add the interior furniture so I can glue on the back, which you can see on the deck, Ah well, one thing at a time.
Guy, what color was the inside of the pilot house on YT 150 I suspect a light tan but I’m not sure.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from pete48 in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by pete48 - FINISHED - Midwest Products - SMALL
I’m late to the party as usual, but it looks like you’re having fun anyway. That’s an interesting difference between the two boats, and both are correct. If five different builders built thier lobster smacks in the 1800’s you would have five slightly different boats, because each builder has his own idea of what is best. That’s part of the joy of building the small boats.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from pete48 in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Michael, The white wood is bass wood, the dark wood is that .5mm X 4mm strips that comes in kits for second planking, I think it’s mahogany but I’m not sure.
Thanks Pete, your lobster smacks are looking good.
Bob
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captainbob reacted to russ in Biloxi schooner by Russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale - POB
Ken:
I traced the shape of the caprail onto a wide piece of basswood and then cut it out with a scalpel. Cut just outside the lines and then use an emory board to VERY carefully sand the rail to its final shape. Actually, this is best done wit the rail in two or three sections because it is easy to break the piece. This method will take a bit of time and you might have to go through a couple of versions to get it right, but it is much easier than trying to edge bend a piece that wide.
Russ
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captainbob reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
John, thanks.
Popeye, glad you are finding it interesting.
Joe, thanks it seems that sharing how we do things is what makes this site so enjoyable, i have learned so much from all the great work and Ideas that make up the bulk of the posts here on this forum.
Bob, yes answering those questions seems to be a never ending task.
Today I did some major reorganizing of the shop, and finally got the pilot cutter off the floor, and opened up some room to work on both models;>)
Then this evening I redid the block set up at the end of the bowsprit I used a new twisted shackle and a single block with a becket for the arrangement. I glued the rail posts and knees down to the deck at the base of the mast. It is so much easier working on the deck hardware and woodwork at desk height.
Michael
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captainbob got a reaction from mtaylor in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Now, on to the pilot house, it has a round front with three windows. First I drew a top view to get the spacing. The windows are .28” wide with .06” between them. The windows are flat while the structure curves. I cut the windows undersize and glued the panel to the curved top and bottom before I trimmed away the excess. I then put tape on the panel to show the limits of the windows and cut and sanded the windows to size. On the fourth try it worked. I made the side and back panels the same way. Now its paint and add the wood trim around the windows. Then add the interior furniture so I can glue on the back, which you can see on the deck, Ah well, one thing at a time.
Guy, what color was the inside of the pilot house on YT 150 I suspect a light tan but I’m not sure.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from Piet in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Now, on to the pilot house, it has a round front with three windows. First I drew a top view to get the spacing. The windows are .28” wide with .06” between them. The windows are flat while the structure curves. I cut the windows undersize and glued the panel to the curved top and bottom before I trimmed away the excess. I then put tape on the panel to show the limits of the windows and cut and sanded the windows to size. On the fourth try it worked. I made the side and back panels the same way. Now its paint and add the wood trim around the windows. Then add the interior furniture so I can glue on the back, which you can see on the deck, Ah well, one thing at a time.
Guy, what color was the inside of the pilot house on YT 150 I suspect a light tan but I’m not sure.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Now, on to the pilot house, it has a round front with three windows. First I drew a top view to get the spacing. The windows are .28” wide with .06” between them. The windows are flat while the structure curves. I cut the windows undersize and glued the panel to the curved top and bottom before I trimmed away the excess. I then put tape on the panel to show the limits of the windows and cut and sanded the windows to size. On the fourth try it worked. I made the side and back panels the same way. Now its paint and add the wood trim around the windows. Then add the interior furniture so I can glue on the back, which you can see on the deck, Ah well, one thing at a time.
Guy, what color was the inside of the pilot house on YT 150 I suspect a light tan but I’m not sure.
Bob
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captainbob reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
I am not used to doing anything during my work week....I'm usually too tired and falling asleep at my computer. this is something I just had to get done. so, I did the railing Saturday evening........
then Sunday evening, I did the pin rack........stained it just before I went to bed. I glued it in place before I went to work this morning.
so......now the railings are complete. this step is done. there are some other rails along the hull to go on yet...and some painting. I'll be doing that next. here are some shots of the deck and how it looks now.
these two pictures how the railings follow the bulwarks
I need to get some semi gloss lacquer for the seal coat......I have some clear gloss, but I think it would be too much shine. I'll be heading back to the Gothenborg to do some more rigging. thanks for your good comments, I really appreciate it very much.
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captainbob got a reaction from popeye the sailor in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Thanks John, When this is done I think I’ll give 1:96 back to you and return to my comfort zone of 1:48.
Popeye, thanks for your comment on the color. Since two of us agree, I’m going to leave it as is.
Guy, Thanks for pointing out the cap and pin on the post. I missed that. As for the scuttle hatches they were 18” and flush to the deck. At this scale It would be a 3/16” circle on the deck. Maybe, we’ll see. The bow mats and fenders will be added at the end.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from Mirabell61 in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Finally a little more detail. The pipes are .025 darkened annealed steel wire. At the hardware store they refer to it as rebar tie wire. The ladder is .015 wire.
I like this material. It’s easy to work and I frequently flatten it to represent black iron straps or mast bands. Now on to the upper deck.
Bob
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captainbob reacted to Bedford in Maine three-masted schooner by Bedford - 1:54 - RADIO
Yeah I love them and hopefully she will look good under sail. She has great classic lines too.
I made Thermopylae years ago and still have the plans, I want to make that in this size and r/c her but that is a major task running all that rigging via r/c and learning to sail her so I thought a classic schooner first.
This project might put me right off the Thermopylae idea too, you never know, but I do enjoy a mechanical challenge.
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captainbob reacted to AntonyUK in HMS Victory by AntonyUK - FINISHED - Scale 1:36 - cross-section
Hello Shipmates.
A Update..
Spent a bit of time doing the treenails in the hold area over the weekend.
The Dark treenails were soaked in stain for 1 hour then air dried they are tooth picks and I used a 0.8mm drill.
The light ones are normal tooth picks with a 0.6mm drill.
Close up view.
Will start to fix the ryders later on tonight. Will use the 1.1mm copper wire and also glue to hold them in place.
More pictures to follow as I proceed.
Regards Antony.
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captainbob reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
thanks Andy.........I am pleased with it.......the deck areas are so much more open. so glad I took your advice. the beauty of it was that I didn't have that much of a repair job, and very easy to flesh out........it was just so simple to do kudos to you, my friend...thanks for the nudge :D
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captainbob reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
I just cemented on the starboard main deck railing......I probably won't get to the pictures I wanted to finish this phase of the build. so, here is what I have so far........but I'm very close
as I mentioned earlier, the odd post at the end of the fore deck was cut flush to the deck, so a full post can be installed.
the main deck pin racks are trimmed and fitted the same as the stern racks.
the port side railings are installed.
then the pin racks are installed.
here are just some overview shots of how she looks now.
just before I hit the hay, I made up the posts for the starboard side......stained and cemented in place.
so, here I am......the railing freshly cemented in place, and right now, it's too cramped to mark and cut the slots in the pin rack........I'll post them when everything is in place.
I hope I appeased the 'Sjors' bug, Mobbsie. I still can't believe how well this came out. that pile of cut up parts panel, is now dwindled to a small heap....I used a good portion of it. wood not wasted, but all put to good use
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captainbob reacted to The Sailor in J-class yacht Endeavour 1934 by The Sailor - Amati - 1:35
Thank you very much, Yves and Ben.
And here are the next photos showing the progress of planking the hull (first planking):
First I‘ve nearly finished the planking of the keel. As you can see on the next photos the 2mm planks have to be sanded down to the level of the 1mm planks.
And some more planks:
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captainbob reacted to allanyed in Effie M Morrissey 1894 by allanyed - FINISHED - Scale 1:48
A bit of progress on Effie. The deck is planked and scraped, but needs a bit of trimming around the various deck openings. With no top timbers on the frames, sanding and scraping the deck planking was easier than when there are bulwarks or top timber framing in place.
There are stanchions between frames versus having top timbers on the frames. The frames stop at the same height as the top of the deck beams so the stanchions will be the support for the bulwark planking.
When framing the model I placed small blocks between frames to give added strength. Coincidentally, these act as a stop for the stanchions. I have drawn these blocks in red on the attached.
I have started fitting filler decking pieces between the stanchions to close in the decking around the stanchions as shown on the photo.
Allan
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captainbob got a reaction from themadchemist in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
The more I look at the pictures the more I see. On the drawings of the Nokomis and on the picture of the Hoga at sea trials there are only two towing bitts on each side, but I noticed that in the picture of the Hoga at Pearl Harbor there was another set of bitts added to each side. (see red circle)
Not here.
There they are.
And I cannot find a stern drying grid in any of the pictures of the Hoga or the City of Oakland. So here is where we are, the hull is done and the main part of the cabin. Now for the upper deck and the pipes and vents around the cabin.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from themadchemist in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Finally a little more detail. The pipes are .025 darkened annealed steel wire. At the hardware store they refer to it as rebar tie wire. The ladder is .015 wire.
I like this material. It’s easy to work and I frequently flatten it to represent black iron straps or mast bands. Now on to the upper deck.
Bob
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captainbob got a reaction from mtaylor in HOGA (YT-146) by captainbob - FINISHED - 1:96 - SMALL - Navy yard tug
Finally a little more detail. The pipes are .025 darkened annealed steel wire. At the hardware store they refer to it as rebar tie wire. The ladder is .015 wire.
I like this material. It’s easy to work and I frequently flatten it to represent black iron straps or mast bands. Now on to the upper deck.
Bob
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captainbob reacted to Jim Lad in How to do deck edging?
I always lay the margin plank first. As the planking goes forward, I cut the joggling into the end of the plank and lay this over the margin plank and mark the shape of the joggled end with a sharp pencil on the margin plank. The margin plank can then be cut with a very sharp blade to take the end of the plank.
John
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captainbob reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
John yes it does seem that way, the lake is still open, we have had some very nice warm weather this last month.
After supper I managed to nearly finish the new block , I like this way of building them much better than the earlier method , perhaps because it is the way the full sized ones are made.
using the new twisted shackles as well, I like the look and texture of the apple block.
Michael
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captainbob got a reaction from newbuilder101 in San Felipe by newbuilder101 (Sherry) – Scale 1:96
Only 5000. That explains it.
Bob
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captainbob reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
I had hoped to avoid building an articulated tool but it has become apparent that with all those tentacles I will have to manipulate I was going to have to make something I could bend around inside the bottle. It turns out it was very easy to make this elbow tool and I was done and using it a lot sooner than I imagined, I had set aside the whole night to cobble something together and really all I had to do was drill a hole and bend some wire. There is no glue or solder in use here at all its just bent wire and knots on the string. The inset photo is the tool in its bent mode. It swings through 120 degrees roughly when I pull on one string and ease the other. I’m sure anyone reading this could build one of these and a lot of you could build a more elegant tool, based on some of the build logs and evident competence I see on this site.
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captainbob reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Here is the tool in use within the bottle. Its holding a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol and its making short work of the glommed on clay residue at the “water line”. The tool with the tweezers on the end could not reach the waters edge and when I tried to hold a Q-tip and use that to swab the inside it simply wasn't effective.
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