wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
wefalck replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I am using so-called zapon varnish, which is fast-drying and remain a bit elastic. It is basically invisible and does not add volume to knots etc. Old-time nail-varnish, not the modern acrylic version, is/was essentially the same. The main use of zapon varnish is to coat silver- or brass-ware to prevent it from tarnishing. As the USA seems to have overtight regulations on organic solvents in some states, it may be difficult to find. Unlike white glue or acrylic varnishes, this varnish can be easily redissolved with a drop of acetone, if you need to adjust the knot. Not sure, why you want to cut close to a knot. Normally, when a rope is tied to something with a knot, there is a 'tail', the length of which depends on the situation. The only situation I can think of for cutting close would be when belaying to a pin and you want to prepare the coil separately. Another situation for making close cuts would be after splicing. Here, the varnish prevents the strands from slipping out after being cut back closely. -
Interesting feature, these push-knees. That is something rarely seen in Europe on tugs until a few decades ago. I would have thought that the driver would have been tied up alongside for manoeuvering it around and then tied up to the shore and two anchors laid out at the rear to keep it in position and to move it along for the next pile.
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BR-18 Locomotive by Greg Davis - OcCre - 1/32
wefalck replied to Greg Davis's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
In case you need supporting information, there are several surviving examples, for instance in the Deutsche Museum in Munich. This Wikipedia page gives an overview over S3/6: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayerische_S_3/6. It's in German, but that shouldn't be a problem with GoogleTranslator. I was surprised to see a Bavarian locomotive in blue in did a bit of search on German fora. It seems that they were painted for unknown reasons in blue for a number exhibitions around Europe, but blue was never a regular livery. -
English Royal Yacht by Ab Hoving - CARD
wefalck replied to Ab Hoving's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Must be a specialist, who sees any problem with the stern ... I think that the 'garlands' would be a job for a laser-cutter or for photo-etching in brass ... or may be 3D-printing to obtain some plasticity. -
There seems to be a certain parallel to the boats from Norway that tended to rigged with a single square sail right into the 20th century. As has been shown by the replicas of Viking boats, when using bulins on the square-sails, they can go quite high into the wind. Looking forward to further progress ...
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Sherline Mill Ring Light
wefalck replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It seems that 'warm' LEDs actually have a layer of yellow, transparent varnish on them. That's why they a 10% lower output in lumen, compared to the cold white ones. -
Sherline Mill Ring Light
wefalck replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another option is, if you have a lathe with a face-plate, to cut a ring-slot with a boring tool. This is what I did.
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Well, yes, unfortunately, I snapped one and lost it into nowhere 😡. I will replace it after the planking.
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Sherline Mill Ring Light
wefalck replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Well engineered! It's only a pity that these 'angel's eyes' for cars only come in this unpleasant cold white. I made a similar one for my antique mill some ten years ago. As it is cast iron, I attached the ring-light with a neodynium magnet. -
Thanks for the 'Likes' ! ************************ Quick update In between travels I managed to attach the outboard part of the covering boards: I also scraped all the pieces to the same level, but some of the joints will need a bit of filling with putty to give a uniform appearance of a single board. To be continued
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I think I would have had a cardiac arrest while the first paint went on ... Loosk like my favourite green, British Racing Green or RAL 6007 Bottle Green. Difficult to get these days, but I had it mixed up in acrylics for the paint-jobs on my machines. And I think this is enough paint to give a balance between the realistic impression of the real thing, while preserving the beautiful planking and varnishing job.
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Because of the B/W photographs, we tend to have a much more dim impression of the time between 1850 and 1950, but in reality, the world was quite colourful. Perhaps not as colourful as after the aesthetically sometimes questionable colour-explosion during the later 1960s and the 1970s though. However, coloured paint was expensive, so 'simple' and lightfast colours, such as black, green, red-ochre and the likes dominated. It was also a matter of fashion: during the 1830s to 1850s (sea)ships were painted with quite a bit of colour, but thereafter black and white dominated. I gather, it is your aesthetic choice, Keith ...
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Brass parts to be handled other than for assembly probably require an etching primer. My models are barely handled, so I am ok with painting directly on brass. However, I mainly spray-paint, which makes it easier. Using a solvent-based varnish as primer might go a long way to facilitate brush-paining with acrylics, because bare brass has a slightly hydrophobic surface, regardless how well you clean it. Other people actually use paper, cardboard or styrene for metal-bands, which is fine as long as there is no load on these parts.
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Source: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/bawaria/ Jig used in construction: Source: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/wittelsbach/
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I know a 95 year old gentleman in Germany who has made several display-models with fully feathered side-wheels soldered up from brass parts ... in 1:100 scale
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You are lucky, that these sternwheelers used fixed blades 😈 Looking good 👍🏻
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Sorry, to have killed your linoleum-dream 🫢 I gather you have to teleport LULA then into the 1900s or so.
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Deck Cleats
wefalck replied to hof00's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
The size of cleats need to be adapted to the size of line to be belayed on them. Even on small boats the cleats for sheets can be anything between 500 mm and 700 mm long. The ones that double also as cleats for mooring lines may span two bulwark stanchions. -
If linoleum, I would have thought of plain so-called Battleship-Linoleum in iron-oxide red ... However, linoleum wasn't invented until the mid-1860s by Walton, who remain the main producer (through subsidiaries) in Europe. Some years ago I did quite extensive research on the possible use of linoleum on the original configuration of SMS WESPE, but concluded that 1876 was too early. Shipboard use didn't really commence before the 1880s. Another option is wax-cloth, forerunner and inspiration for linoleum. I believe waxed cloth was used as cheap floor-covering from around the 1840s, but doubt that it would have stood up to rough shipboard use. It's the same kind of stuff they still sell as tablecloth today. To be honest, I think the most realistic bet would be plain wooden flooring.
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The linoleum looks like the captain is a lady 😁 ...
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Deck Cleats
wefalck replied to hof00's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I gather, learning to sail helps ... in many cases you the business end partly around a cleat, pin or spill head, because the friction helps you to control the line and takes out jerks. There is also a difference between 'belaying' and 'fastening'. Belaying end always refers to the business end of a line, the one that is handled. The other end is 'made fast', e.g. with a shackle through a spliced eye to an eye-bolt. -
Deck Cleats
wefalck replied to hof00's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Indeed, a tackle or at least a single block. -
That's called a 'jig' and is used in manufacturing and assembly all the time ... one can also use cardboard for jigs that don't have to be terribly precise or carry loads.
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Hanks for attaching staysails to stays
wefalck replied to Dr PR's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
"Some people call the rope coils created when belaying ropes to belaying pins "hanks" but this is a misuse of the term." I am not a native English speaker (though I consider myself bilingual ...), but for me a hank of yarn/rope was yarn or rope coiled up. The use of the term 'hank' for the kind of hooks used to attach staysails to stays seems to be in line with the etymology of the word: https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/hank. In German we call these thingies 'Stagreiter' i.e. 'stay-rider' ... -
Deck Cleats
wefalck replied to hof00's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I am confused by the wording now: tackles usually 'hook' to eyebolts, but their runners are then belayed to pins or cleats. Cleats are for belaying, not for making fast tackles.
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