jud

I've encountered a similar issue JP. My solution was similar to Jay's - insert something of slightly smaller diameter in the other end of the collet (eg a drill bit, or piece of brass/steel rod), and then GENTLY tap the end. It doesn't take a lot of force to free the bind. Sometimes just tapping the inverted "assembly" on the workbench top is sufficient.

Mike,
 
I was having some problems akin to you, and had to get really inventive in accessing some hardware that had been placed and was almost inaccessible further on in thee build.
 
I don't know how many sheets of plans you have but Grant Dale advised me always read ahead, always specifically with foreign makers.
It was valuable advice. I found some that some hardware, blocks and rigging  that was omitted earlier in the plans showed up later  :(and was almost impossible to add, and you could also wait to place items that would be impossible to access if you placed according to the plans. Study all pages front to back and always read ahead for possible problems unforeseen in the first pages of plans.
 
Hope I didn't get to wordy. Best of luck 

Hi Pete,
Here's what I found in my archives on ship's stoves.
VOC Batavia

VOC Amsterdam

HMS Victory



HMS Warrior 1860


Maritime Museum in Gdańsk - from the Baltic shipwreck

 
Tadeusz
 

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

When I was laying the last plank row of the day, I paid attention to what I was doing to cause the thumb split.  It happens while cleaning up the glue squeeze out.  For those of you who haven't seen my build log, I filled in between the frames with balsa.  So I am laying glue on the entire length and having to clean the squeeze out on the entire length.
 
I will have to learn a better method.  And if I forget, my thumb will remind me.

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

You may not be overdoing anything, some woods will dry skin and some people are more sensitive than others. Happens often around here. When working some things and dry weather will dry the skin, those splits on the skin at the edges of the fingers and thumb nails are painful, as are the rare splits down the center. Bag Balm is what I have used for years, it will prevent drying out, sooth and help heal splits. Kind of messy stuff in large amounts so a little goes a long way. For bad splits I place a small gob on the split and cover it with a band aid, by morning the pain is gone and healing is well on it's way. Bag Balm was designed for milk cow tits, when they are chapped, prevents getting kicked, when I was a kid milking the cow, it was in the barn and I used it when needed, usually in the winter. Those who were using it before me noticed it was good for dry and split fingers, so it found its way into the house as an accepted treatment. My step mother also used it on small wounds on her horse, helped heal and kept flies from bothering the wound, unlike some treatments, the horse didn't mind. Today you can buy it in drug stores, at least around here, in small tins. Shelf life seems to be forever.
jud

I find it odd the height of the pins above the deck is so low. Longridge indicates  mostly buntlines bowlines and nave lines and stuff like that will hang on these pins, and these are lighter thinner and shorter lines. But he also has t'gallent halyards on them and these would be very long lines, impossible to coil in such a way that they would hang from pins set so low. That is, if you did not want the coils to touch the deck, which is what I believe is the standard criteria for a hanging coil.  When LeHermione was in town last year I noted that her longer lines were made off on pins on the fife rails, but the coils were then hung adjacent to their pins on the mast itself. In that way the larger coils were off the deck and not hampering access to the fife rail. Still I can't imagine why the builders of the Victory wanted the pins so low. There is  enough room on deck for higher rails. Why so low?

I clove hitch ratlines at 1/96 with no trouble.  A clove hitch is a very simple knot.
 
John

More of the Deckhouse
 
After glueing up the lifts it was time to add the thin laser cut facing pieces. 


 
While test fitting them it quickly became apparent that the superstructure was taller than the facing pieces, as confirmed by the plans. The facing pieces are the correct height but the lifts are too tall, about 6mm total when all are stacked. After removing 1.5 - 2 mm from each level everything fit together.
 

 
One of the odd features of the liberty ships was what looked to be concrete slabs around the pilot house and gun tubs like you can see here:
 

 

 
While visiting the SS John Brown I learned that it is not concrete but a British invention called Plastic Armour which is really just road paving material like asphalt. You can read about it here if you are interested:
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_armour
 
As you can see in this pix it varied in its appearance even on the same ship; the nearest slab is smooth, the ones next to it rougher and the slabs protecting the gun tub in the background look like a sloppy job of adding foam insulation:
 

 
I decided to add it to my model. I cut thin wood to shape, drilled out the porthole lights larger than the portholes for the distinctive “stepped” look. I then sprayed them with primer and while it was still wet pressed them into some fine sawdust. A few more coats of spray primer reduced the fine granularity.
 

 

 
I then used the non-working end of a drill bit to press down to create the discs that worked like upholstery buttons to hold the armor in place:
 

 
Here’s the finished product (Additional airbrush coats of the final color will reduce the granularity even more):
 


 
Next up will be adding the gun tubs and some more detailing that is easier done before the deckhouse is mounted on the hull. 

Would appear that these tables prove an unadvertised fact that the Royal Navy segregated it's sailors by height. The extremely tall were sent to the 100 Gun vessels and the midgets  went to the sloops, every seaman between were distributed on a height and guns ratio. Interesting what can be gleaned from and proven from dissociated standardizing tables.
jud

Uh...sure, Jud!
 
Usually the height of the crosspiece above the deck (plank) was in the order of 19" to 20"(mizen) 21" (main) to the underside.
 
The height of the bitt pins above deck: 2' 11" (mizen), 3' 7" (main).
 
Hope this is a helpful guide.

Would appear that these tables prove an unadvertised fact that the Royal Navy segregated it's sailors by height. The extremely tall were sent to the 100 Gun vessels and the midgets  went to the sloops, every seaman between were distributed on a height and guns ratio. Interesting what can be gleaned from and proven from dissociated standardizing tables.
jud

Mylar?  Check an office supply store for overhead projector transparencies.  It not only comes in clear but a variety of colors.

USING 3.5" FLOPPY DISKS FOR WINDOW GLAZING (NO SCALE)
 
Hi,
 
CaptainSteve asked if I would do a post on using floppy disks for window glazing after he saw it on my Borodino build log so here it is.
 
Firstly, I would usually give credit to the person whose techniques I use and post on my build log but in this case I am afraid I have no idea where I picked this up from as its probably been a couple of years but only using it now.
 
The floppy disk could be used to ‘glaze’ stern galleries and quarter light windows as well as portholes.  My example is for 2mm photo-etch portholes in spare card that came with an other model I am building.  It could probably be cut to fit between the transoms and munnions on larger wooden or photo etch frames.  It is easier to just cut it oversize and glue from the back and in the case of the portholes the best method (probably the only method).
 
I would imagine most people have floppy disks lying around in the house somewhere.  It’s probably well over a decade since I owned a floppy drive to read them.  If you haven’t I would imagine you could still source them from the internet maybe.
 
Firstly remove the metal door from the case.  If you don’t want to keep it just rip it off.  Since it’s nice and thin at 0.19mm (slightly thicker than photo-etch I wanted to save it in case something comes up where I could use.)  Prise it up from the backside of the case to lift the 2 tabs out of the groove.  Once clear of the groove it drops off.
 

 

 
 
To get to the floppy part I pushed a Stanley knife blade into one of the joins at the corner.  The case is glued (plastic welded?) only at the corners so you want to cut this bond free.  Then do the same at another corner.  You only need to do 2 corners then you can pull the case open until the disk drops out.
 

 
 
The disk itself is actually pretty amazing.  I thought it was made of Mylar and CaptainSteve confirmed this, also informing me it was coated with iron oxide.  I used my Vernier to measure it and it was 0.08mm which agrees with CaptainSteve’s 0.003”
 
It is very tough; I was unable to tear an undamaged disk by hand.  The disk is very shiny and some care should be taken to avoid marking the surface; probably not a big deal on 2mm portholes but you don’t want any blemishes showing up on larger stern gallery windows.  I also avoided touching the surface with fingers to avoid leaving finger prints for the same reason.
 
With this is in mind I used a plastic school ruler as opposed to my usual steel rule.  To cut it with say a No.11 blade I found it best to hold the knife at a very shallow angle.  I prefer to use small super sharp scissors to cut it as I don’t need to cut out accurate dimensions and they don’t burr the edge which sometimes happens with the knife blade.
 

 
 
To glue the window ‘pane’ I use normal PVA. This is more than adequate for securing the part to paper and photo-etch; wood also I would imagine.  As with most things less is more when gluing and I usually use either a sewing needle held in a pin vice or an old 000 paint brush for applying glue.  I used the paint brush in this case as I need to spread it out on the back surface of the ‘model’.
 
I guess most glues would be suitable and you will need to experiment for yourself for your glue of choice; I will add I wouldn’t use CA glue.  I know CA glue fumes can fog up clear styrene canopies etc so as an experiment I placed a drop of CA on the disk to see what would happen and it did slightly discolour the edges of the glue blob.
 

 
 
To fit the window I used a photo-etch parts placer.  It is basically like a pencil with a hard waxy crayon centre.  You can sharpen it to point using a knife or pencil sharpener and with use it loses its tackiness so you can resharpen it again but I usually just give it a quick scrap with an old blade.
 
If you do a lot of photo-etch it is invaluable and has the benefit over tweezers with flat pieces as you don’t need to worry about trying to grip the part on the edges.  Try not to slide the ‘pane’ around when placing as you don’t want glue smears/blemishes on the part spoiling the effect.
 
 

 
 
The finished porthole next to an unglazed one.  With the macro you can see a shiny window and even at normal viewing distance a dark shine is noticeable so would imagine the effect would be even more pronounced with larger scales and windows.
 

 
 
Now if I could only find the same disk material but transparent all my window glazing needs would be met LOL
 
Cheers
Slog

Thank you Jud and John: 
 
Jud: I misspoke. they are not rigging pins they are called rigging screws (per my plans and also per Underhill's Masting and Rigging book upon which I totally rely. But, you are correct about how they function. Exactly like a turnbuckle.
 
John: I agree that wire would be the best for authenticity. My concern was how to affix the wire. I suppose the answer is "carefully." If you have the time, check out this link http://www.skoleskibet-danmark.dk/picsPHP/galleri.php?album=Togt92  I relied heavily on the photos on this site and updated my old model to some of the current features of the ship.Much of my workmanship leaves a bit to be desired but for a first effort, I'll take it.
 
Thanks again to you both.

Because its not on the Model Expo site yet....After many requests here it is by chapter

 

Introduction 

 

Chapter 1 

 

Chapter 2 

 

Chapter 3 

 

Chapter 4 

 

Chapter 5 

 

Chapter 6

 

Chapter 7 

 

Chapter 8

 

Chapter 9

 

Chapter 10

 

Chapter 11

 

Chapter 12

 

Chapter 13

 

Chapter 14 

 

Chapter 15

 

Chapter 16

 

Chapter 17

 

Chapter 18

 

Chapter 19

 

   THE END    

Tom, no offense taken!  I've learned so much from the folks on here that it's an honor to give back at least in a little way.  So, no worries at all.  Hope it helps lots of people, as I spent an inordinate amount of time researching and testing various methods.

I think now is the time to decide on the scantlings for your floor and first futtock timbers.  The 62" figure will have two Room & Space measurements for a R&S scantling of 31" or 2' 7".  Steel gives the R&S of a 32 gun frigate as 2' 3 3/4 ", but his 32 is shorter than Amphion so a 2' 7" figure might fit for the longer LBP that you have.  Into that 31" must fit a floor, a first futtock and a space.  Steel gives 13" for the siding of the floor and futtock of a 32, but again I think we might up that to 14".  Twice 14" is 28" leaving a space of 3".  This is a bit spacey, but I think it might serve.  Now, into the 62" will go a two floors, two futtocks and two spaces, but because the spaces are distributed over three gaps (the bends are not sistered) we have 6/3" gaps of 2" air gaps between the timbers.  Again, this seems to me to be a bit spacey but not impossible.
 
Now for the 75" figure.  This longer distance is due to the presence of a frame that has only a floor timber without a companion first futtock.  This is what will cause the floor to "shift" from being on the forward side of the frame pair to the after side.  This arrangement was handled in a plethora of ways, but you will have to play around with spacing and disposition to make things work.
 
If any of this makes sense then take it for what it cost you.  These are just some speculations I went through when I saw the 62" and 75" figures.
 
Good work all around as far as I can see.
 
Wayne

k, waterlines on the half breadth are now done, I also validated the 'curves' against the original traced waterlines as so (original in yellow)
 

 
Remembering that my waterline locations don't match the originals (so they would not be 'on top' of each other) this allows the angles to be approximately validated to see if anything is drastically off.
 
After this the Buttock Lines went in, this is a nice easy job.
 
After the Buttock Lines the station lines were re-done. For the distance I measured the traced gaps as so (remembering one of the station line gaps is larger than the rest presumably to not include a station line that matches the central ones closely and to allow 'better' locations for some of the aft lines)
 

 
Here the red dimension is the larger one. From this I settled at 62 inches for standard gaps and 75 for the larger.
 

 
Here they are drawn in. I keep the central station line a different colour (green). You also get a good view of the Buttock Lines as well (Pink)
 
Finally I compared locations to the originals. This has no relevance beyond showing how closely the body plan station lines will be close to the originals. As can be seen they are relatively close though some of the furthest aft lines are separating slightly so I can expect some line shadowing there.
 

 
Next up re-drawing the station lines on the body plan.
 
 
 
 

Sails were valuable and expensive to replace, so if some were furled and some set would be normal, some furled and some struck below was just as likely. The answer can only be, 'It Depends', Any combination would have happened at one time or another. I like the idea of furled sails on that model.
jud