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Wife asked me to put drain holes in a container she had dragged in to plant something in, used a 22 revolver to make the drain holes. After that she used her own revolver for such chores, might try that, shoot a hole in the bulwarks or side, run a jig saw blade through it, attach the blade to a saw, and have at it.  If done carefully, you can do both sides at once and save ammo.  

Wife asked me to put drain holes in a container she had dragged in to plant something in, used a 22 revolver to make the drain holes. After that she used her own revolver for such chores, might try that, shoot a hole in the bulwarks or side, run a jig saw blade through it, attach the blade to a saw, and have at it.  If done carefully, you can do both sides at once and save ammo.  

Wife asked me to put drain holes in a container she had dragged in to plant something in, used a 22 revolver to make the drain holes. After that she used her own revolver for such chores, might try that, shoot a hole in the bulwarks or side, run a jig saw blade through it, attach the blade to a saw, and have at it.  If done carefully, you can do both sides at once and save ammo.  

An aspect of gunports that seems to be often missed:
The sides of the ports are parallel to the frames, not perpendicular to the LWL.
The sills and lintels are parallel to the deck at the port location.  In the middle there is little or no difference port to port.  At the ends, each port is individual in shape.
The ports are parallelograms with vertical sides.  A stick used as a gauge for every port on a particular deck produces an inauthentic result.
The gun truck or skid sits on the deck.  The barrel tracks parallel to the deck.

Wife asked me to put drain holes in a container she had dragged in to plant something in, used a 22 revolver to make the drain holes. After that she used her own revolver for such chores, might try that, shoot a hole in the bulwarks or side, run a jig saw blade through it, attach the blade to a saw, and have at it.  If done carefully, you can do both sides at once and save ammo.  

Welcome to MSW, Mr. Skulduggery.  You might consider opening your own intro topic here.    As for first wooden models....  One series of wooden ships is just really for beginners designed by David Antscherl, modeler extraordinaire, and a member here.   
 
There's two of these, one without tools and paint https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html
 
 And one with tools and paint.  https://modelexpo-online.com/name

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

Having been a Gunners Mate aboard the Ammen DD 527, this Johnston video adds to my respect of the Fletcher Class Destroyers and their crews. Considered it an honor to have served with WW2 and Korean War Veterans getting close to retirement. “Rocks and Shoals Navy”, is no more.  

Throw that thing out, and obtain a good Parallel Rule. Preferred them over drafting machines for a long time. 

It was at that point that she discovered it was a casserole, not a pie. What can i say, it looked like a pie to me when I took it out of the freezer! So I said, "Don't blame me. Who bakes a pie at 120 degrees anyway?' And it went downhill from there...  

Having been a Gunners Mate aboard the Ammen DD 527, this Johnston video adds to my respect of the Fletcher Class Destroyers and their crews. Considered it an honor to have served with WW2 and Korean War Veterans getting close to retirement. “Rocks and Shoals Navy”, is no more.  

Having been a Gunners Mate aboard the Ammen DD 527, this Johnston video adds to my respect of the Fletcher Class Destroyers and their crews. Considered it an honor to have served with WW2 and Korean War Veterans getting close to retirement. “Rocks and Shoals Navy”, is no more.  

Having been a Gunners Mate aboard the Ammen DD 527, this Johnston video adds to my respect of the Fletcher Class Destroyers and their crews. Considered it an honor to have served with WW2 and Korean War Veterans getting close to retirement. “Rocks and Shoals Navy”, is no more.  

Having been a Gunners Mate aboard the Ammen DD 527, this Johnston video adds to my respect of the Fletcher Class Destroyers and their crews. Considered it an honor to have served with WW2 and Korean War Veterans getting close to retirement. “Rocks and Shoals Navy”, is no more.  

Having been a Gunners Mate aboard the Ammen DD 527, this Johnston video adds to my respect of the Fletcher Class Destroyers and their crews. Considered it an honor to have served with WW2 and Korean War Veterans getting close to retirement. “Rocks and Shoals Navy”, is no more.  

Want a right angle? Don't forget the 3, 4, 5 triangle. Using that method you can obtain a right angle of any size within the precision of your measuring tools and your ability to use them. Lots of Data on the net, I have used the method many times on paper, wood and ground, it maters not what linier units you choose to use. Mark your corner, lay a base line out and mark as precisely as you can 4 units from the corner, from that point measure 5 units and scribe an arc near where you expect the corner to be, return to the corner and make another arc at 3 units from the corner, the intersection of the two arcs is the final corner of your 90°, 3, 4, 5 triangle    

Want a right angle? Don't forget the 3, 4, 5 triangle. Using that method you can obtain a right angle of any size within the precision of your measuring tools and your ability to use them. Lots of Data on the net, I have used the method many times on paper, wood and ground, it maters not what linier units you choose to use. Mark your corner, lay a base line out and mark as precisely as you can 4 units from the corner, from that point measure 5 units and scribe an arc near where you expect the corner to be, return to the corner and make another arc at 3 units from the corner, the intersection of the two arcs is the final corner of your 90°, 3, 4, 5 triangle    

Want a right angle? Don't forget the 3, 4, 5 triangle. Using that method you can obtain a right angle of any size within the precision of your measuring tools and your ability to use them. Lots of Data on the net, I have used the method many times on paper, wood and ground, it maters not what linier units you choose to use. Mark your corner, lay a base line out and mark as precisely as you can 4 units from the corner, from that point measure 5 units and scribe an arc near where you expect the corner to be, return to the corner and make another arc at 3 units from the corner, the intersection of the two arcs is the final corner of your 90°, 3, 4, 5 triangle    

Want a right angle? Don't forget the 3, 4, 5 triangle. Using that method you can obtain a right angle of any size within the precision of your measuring tools and your ability to use them. Lots of Data on the net, I have used the method many times on paper, wood and ground, it maters not what linier units you choose to use. Mark your corner, lay a base line out and mark as precisely as you can 4 units from the corner, from that point measure 5 units and scribe an arc near where you expect the corner to be, return to the corner and make another arc at 3 units from the corner, the intersection of the two arcs is the final corner of your 90°, 3, 4, 5 triangle    

I would assume that the isopropanol dried the end sections of your frame and the wood was not acclimated to the moisture in the space you are working. Now you have a structure who's members are internally stressed and the moisture content is not uniform throughout and it will be changing shape and dimensions until all are uniform. Throw it all into a bath of isopropanol for 48 hours and then remove it and let it dry and stabilize a couple of weeks undisturbed in a airy space. Your joints will still not fit and all of the dimensions will have changed, start over with different stock.
 

Greetings from the Dry Side.

Remember the convenient arrangement of the facility's for dumping aboard the Helena, CA 75 was a face to face arrangement of our modern flushing commodes. One day in 62 while tied up at North Island 95% of our 1200+/- man crew got the shits, was blamed on the Scullery not rinsing the soap adequately. Don't know, I started heaving in a bucket I grabbed on a line spool under the tail of Turret 2, which I was attempting to enter. Made it to a head and noticed how handy is was to dump in the pot while pukeing in the lap of the guy across from you and neither one caring. Learned that much thought must go into the placement of those seats of ease. Oh, flu lasted about 2 hours and the ship was, although it was a big job, cleaned up for supper. Photo in Hong Kong 1961

Greetings from the Dry Side.

I would assume that the isopropanol dried the end sections of your frame and the wood was not acclimated to the moisture in the space you are working. Now you have a structure who's members are internally stressed and the moisture content is not uniform throughout and it will be changing shape and dimensions until all are uniform. Throw it all into a bath of isopropanol for 48 hours and then remove it and let it dry and stabilize a couple of weeks undisturbed in a airy space. Your joints will still not fit and all of the dimensions will have changed, start over with different stock.
 

I would assume that the isopropanol dried the end sections of your frame and the wood was not acclimated to the moisture in the space you are working. Now you have a structure who's members are internally stressed and the moisture content is not uniform throughout and it will be changing shape and dimensions until all are uniform. Throw it all into a bath of isopropanol for 48 hours and then remove it and let it dry and stabilize a couple of weeks undisturbed in a airy space. Your joints will still not fit and all of the dimensions will have changed, start over with different stock.