bbrockel

I started the TRITON cross section build as a first step toward scratch building.  Or as they call it here the "Dark Side".  The plans are very easy to follow, crisp and clean.  It has been a pretty steep learning curve for me.  Going from having most of the parts laser cut to having to cut and shape each piece myself.  Had some set backs but for the most part, progress has been in the forward direction.  I have postd a few pics with descriptions to cover my progress to date. 
 
 

Hi all.

This project, beeing my first build, was started in september 2011. Having thought about building a wooden ship for many years i finally got around and ordered my Schooner from Blue Jacket in the US.
 
In MSW 1.0 I maintained a build log since day 1, sadly, all the information were lost during the crash. However, all of the pictures are still on my hard drive. In below posts I have added all the pictures in somewhat of an order, this post contains the pictues of the current status of the build.
 
The Blu Jacket kit is of excellent quality, containing a solid hull and a small box of britannia castings. There are no laser cut wooden parts, all parts are built from profiles and sheets. The instructions are thorough and contains a number of hand drawn sketches, and also a number of pictures of the prototype build by Blue Jacket. The length of the finished model will be about 33¨, and I plan to make my own glass (or similar) display case. There will be no sails, but a full running rig.
 
I really enjoy my new hobby, and starting a build log at MSW has been extremely helpful and encouraging. 
 
Thanks for looking in, and I hope you will follow my progress along the way.
 
/Alfons
 

Hi Andy, I hope there will no prblems occur when cutting the gunports.
 
Now here are some impressions of the first planking. The starboard planking is done, on port side are still some gaps.
 

 

 

 

 

Here's an update to the brick laying.  Have had some honeydo's and Admiral time, so not progressing as quickly as it could.  I'm pleased so far.  Lot's of details to go yet, this is prominent focal point on the deck once installed.....yes, Augie.....fiddly little stuff.....fortunately, Piet has given me ideas how to do some things so, it should get interesting...more later hopefully......

Thanks Mike, I am going to include some pictures of the real Tryworks front, which shows the sides with the wooden insulator boards in place....

John,
That's a sweet plane.   Now don't go tempting Augie because he's got rigging to do.

Hi Sjors, as requested here are some pictures of my 2 hump camel....She's Model Expo's Sopwith Camel.....WWI Biplane....wood and metal and many parts at that....fun project.....she's almost a ship...she's an air ship....and buzzing my Constitution.....

The Camel took about 6 months to build it. It was fun,and I also love WWI bi-planes. My favorite is the Red Barron's triplane, whi Model Expo is supposed to be finishing up the prototype and selling in the next month or so, I probably won't tackle it until I finish with the Morgan....if I'm still around by then. I'll post a picture of the Camel tomorrow. I know we're a ship forum, but 1 picture shouldn't hurt....

Texx,
 
For all your viewers I shall put on your log the popcorn machines and drinks for everyone.
When everybody is settled, be the host and go around with everything.
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
And a final picture from you…..

 

thanks guys I guess I am just getting old I like old things...
doc

Same as with many of the other comments - have a pair (with the intention to use them for planking)  but they haven't seen the light of day   Tick strips have replaced that idea - Druxey, great idea on the radiating lines; just need to be very careful in producing a set to ensure accuracy?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hull planking was just an example of how they could be used. Rescaling is possible, but you are right that modern technology does a much a better and faster job of it.
 
Russ

While I've had proportional dividers in my kit for years, I confess that I've very rarely used them. I use a drawn proportional radiating scale on paper. Much cheaper! Just find the spot along the converging outer lines that equals the space you want to divide up - in regular or irregular fashion - and mark off the divisions on a strip of paper at right angles to the radiating lines. The marks are then transferred to wherever you want them. (The example shown is for dividing a square into an octagon.)

Hi i am posting some of my model Bismarck at 1:100 scratchbuilding from styrene, brass, wood.

More progress om the mast......
 
Made the boom from a piece of Poplar wood I had laying around.

Added the pivot point to the end and made up the bands from aluminum sheet and some styrene rod I had.
 
Slowly but surly it's getting there, hoping I have it done for Christmas!

I started the TRITON cross section build as a first step toward scratch building.  Or as they call it here the "Dark Side".  The plans are very easy to follow, crisp and clean.  It has been a pretty steep learning curve for me.  Going from having most of the parts laser cut to having to cut and shape each piece myself.  Had some set backs but for the most part, progress has been in the forward direction.  I have postd a few pics with descriptions to cover my progress to date. 
 
 

Thanks for checking in. All the frames are raised and in place. The next job will be to fair the frames, hope there is enough meat on the frames for this.
Here's a few pictures of my progress to date.
 

 

 

 

 
Just had to take it out of the jig to see how it looked. Surprised how strong the frames are already...
 

 

 
Time to start sanding....sanding...sanding....

Just a small update on my progress....
 
Have the floor of the futtocks sanded down enough for now it is fairly flat.
So decided to glue the keelson in to help strengthen the frames while fairing the sides
 

 
Also adding in the permenant cherry blocks for strenght. They are not exactly straight and inline with each other but they will be planked over later
 

 
Also went out and bought a noodle
 

 
more on the noodle later 
 
Thats it for now...see ya later

Another very satisfied Model Machines customer checking in.
 
Like many people, I work hard for my money and try to not spend it frivolously. When I first started building and was looking for tools I kept hearing about Jim Byrnes and Model Machines but when I looked at the prices I thought they were out of my price range so I bought cheaper. Big mistake. Over time I got to see and use some of Jim’s machines and realized that price differential was nothing compared to what you got for the extra money.
 
I had purchased a drawplate someplace else and right away I found that as the diameters got smaller the accuracy got worse and worse until it got to the point where some of the smallest holes actually had a larger diameter than some of the “bigger” holes. Even still I figured I could make it work. At some point someone let me try Jim’s drawplate. WOW, what a difference. Yes, it’s just a piece of metal but it is a very precisely engineered piece of metal. I decided that it was worth it to upgrade. As noted elsewhere on MSW, Jim’s drawplate even comes with directions and care instructions. It is a simple concept beautifully executed. I did not discard my old drawplate, it sits on my bench and I use it as a paperweight and in that function it works perfectly. It is a constant reminder that even relatively simple things can be done extremely poorly or conversely as in the case of a Byrnes’s machine, extremely well.
 
My next Byrnes purchase was the disk sander. As with the drawplate I got to use it before I purchased it. Being slightly older now and a bit wiser about smaller tools I thought twice about buying something cheaper and did not hesitate to buy the Byrnes sander. It has seen some heavy use since it arrived last week and I could not be happier. The accuracy you can get using one of Jim’s sanders can’t be duplicated on other, somewhat cheaper machines.
 
Customer service as noted by others is on a par with their machines, the best in the business.

Thanks, Paddy Daniel and Bob.
 
All of the hanging knee blanks are rough cut out with the one in the
foreground cut and ready to be installed.
 

 
Here are a couple of close ups to show the various angles etc that have
to be cut into them to fit around the other knees and hull planking.
 

 
After they are all done it will be time to add all the carlings and cut those pesky notches.   
 

 
 

Dan, Matrim and Ron, thank you for confirming I'm doing right by redoing the planking.  I've got most of the old planks removed and am starting on the new ones.  I feel better about my decision now.  And the bumps on my head are healing very well. 

Russ, a very valuable lesson learned here.
 
Daniel, I thought long and hard about doing just that, then decided to do it the right way.
 
Pete38, thanks for the condolences.  I will definitely feel better redoing the planking corectly.

I totally understand Bob.  We would never know but you would and it would bug you every time you looked at it.  You'll enjoy it all the more after the redo.  

Bob that is very nice planking.I had a the same problem and just left it and I kick myself every day.You made the right choise.
   Larry

Alternately copper plate (even just one side). Plus that is something that no-one will notice. If it bugs you then you'll have to get it done but it is not a hanging offense..