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Mike Y

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About Mike Y

  • Birthday 08/04/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden

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    michael.yalov

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  1.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Trussben - FINISHED - 1:48
  2.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: Building wood ladders or steps
  3.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
  4.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: Pelican 1943 by FriedClams - 1:48 - Eastern-Rig Dragger
  5.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  6.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: Research in the HMS Ulysses 1797, a Roebuck class ship
  7.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: Lе Rochefort 1787 by moreplovac - scale 1/36 - port yacht
  8.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
  9.    Jorge Diaz O reacted to a post in a topic: Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
  10.    shipcarpenter reacted to a post in a topic: Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
  11.    shipcarpenter reacted to a post in a topic: Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
  12.    FrankWouts reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Trussben - FINISHED - 1:48
  13.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: La Licorne by Maxthebuilder - 32-gun frigate from Hahn plans
  14.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
  15.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Lе Rochefort 1787 by moreplovac - scale 1/36 - port yacht
  16.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  17.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  18.    westwood reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Trussben - FINISHED - 1:48
  19. Mike Y
    Pardon my ignorance, but what is the actual purpose of the drill press in our hobby? A lot of people are using it, but how? Feels like I’m missing out on something obvious 🥲 The majority of holes on the ship model are planking treenails, and those are easier to drill once the planks are glued in place to ensure a nice line-up of the holes. The only other thing to imagine is a scratch production of rigging blocks and deadeyes, but how many people do that? Not trolling, really would like to understand!
  20. Mike Y
    The vertical axis on the MF70 mill is notoriously not so easy to rotate (there is a common upgrade - installing a small axial bearing, helps a lot!). So if you actually want to drill a hundred holes with it for some reason - it would not be a pleasant process. However it is great as a mill, one of the most commonly used tools in my build at least. Not only for "milling" in a complicated way, but for a lot of precision work. Cutting joints in thick planks to make sure are square in all directions, making a surface flat or square or parallel, etc. Even "making sure this part it is exactly 12.8mm long" - doing that on a mill with the compound table is sometimes easier than sneaking in on a fit with a table saw or a disk sander, more controlled and a nice surface finish. If the part is not curved and has some straight daces - chances are I would shape it on a mill from a rough cut blank. Buy the PM40 vise though, without it you are very limited in clamping options. Example of the typical milling usecase, which is even hard to call "milling". Just a "cutting wood using the X-Y table instead of manual measurements, and no need to worry about keeping a straight edge".
  21. Mike Y
    Pedantic note - there are different grades of acrylic glass, even the well known Plexiglas brand has a dozen different types: https://www.plexiglas-polymers.com/en/basic-grades Some "museum grade" one even offers a decent UV protection. In the quantities we need it's not so expensive and might be a good option. Of course a cheap acrylic from the closest hardware shop might have a different formula and may darken over time. Lumping all "acrylic glass" into a single category is just a bit less broad than "plastics" or "metals" P.S.: I have used this type of Plexiglas (PLEXIGLAS® Optical Clear 0A570) when building my case almost 8 years ago, no sign of any aging problems over time. Though I do not have it under a direct and bright sunlight. https://www.plexiglas-shop.com/se/products/plexiglas-optical/pl0a570hcm-3-00.html
  22. Mike Y
    Oh! These are rookie numbers, we must bump them up! 😳 Donated now, sorry, missed it before... The community is extremely important for the hobby, and it is not cheap to run the forum of this size with that kind of quality and care!
  23. Mike Y
    Thanks Håkan, truly appreciated Yes, spending more time on the hobby is my new year resolution, even sneaked a couple of hours recently! Best wishes to you and a lot of joyful days in your workshop!
  24. Mike Y started following Iberian (Basque) Atlantic Whaler ca. 1550 — as, dos, tres… , La Mahonesa 1789 by native one - scale 1/48 , Research in the HMS Ulysses 1797, a Roebuck class ship and 2 others
  25. Mike Y
    Tricky bow area, looks to be nicely done! Wonder how it would look after fairing 😊 A few areas look suspicious, but hard to tell from the photos. Just hope you are verifying the ”flow” of frames as you go (with some wood strip) to avoid obvious dips and misalignments. Rooting for you! 👍
  26. Mike Y
    Looks nice and smooth, fairly well aligned now! Hope you are installing the frames in the jig / build board, not freehanding it (and it's just for a nicer photo)? Otherwise an accumulated error would creep and likely result in a twisted hull...
  27. Mike Y
    Beautiful! Are you bevelling the edges of the planks before or after the installation? What is your technique for that?
  28. Mike Y
    Super happy to see anything new from Proxxon, especially for their machine lineup! And the price seems very reasonable, though not yet widely available.
  29. Mike Y
    I experimented with various pear and boxwood finishes and settled on these three depending on your needs. All three are easy to apply and are quite universal (would work for any shape of a part). 1) Tung Oil (pure one) if you want a deep, dark tone with a bit of sheen, making grain more visible. Beware - penetrates deep into the wood (a problem if you want to later glue another part to the finished part) and dries slowly. 2) Danish Oil as a middle ground 3) Osmo Polyx 3062 wax-oil mixture as a new go-to finish, looks lighter than the rest and super easy to apply. I did some finish tests in my build log, hopefully you would find them useful See here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/7297-beavers-prize-1777-by-mike-y-148-pof-hahn-style/?do=findComment&comment=788496
  30. Mike Y started following Pelican 1943 by FriedClams - 1:48 - Eastern-Rig Dragger
  31. Mike Y
    Very interesting build and methods! A good crossover from other branches of modelling hobby world Small question - what kind of wires are you using for these LEDs? Looks like a coated copper wire? Any issues with insulation, what diameter would be sufficient for these SMD LEDs?
  32. Mike Y
    Taking shape!
  33. Mike Y
    I would recommend to consult with Kroum Batcharov, he is a well known specialist in the field and also has a youtube channel about nautical archeology. He must have some good recommendations from the inside! https://www.youtube.com/@kroumbatchvarov-archaeologist
  34. Mike Y
    Would not trust any joint angles when building a frame, weren't you gluing on top of a frame template (with a glass in between)? To make sure the pieces actually line up, especially on top of the frame?
  35. Mike Y
    Nicely done! Some battens (thin strips of wood) would help to highlight the high/low areas, since an eye can trick you...

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