Mike Y
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scrubbyj427 reacted to a post in a topic:
La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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I use a very thick black fishing monofilament for the bolts (designed to catch alligators and giant squids, I guess). No problems with any chemicals bleeding into the wood, etc. It is held inside the wood with CA glue and sands nicely to be flush.
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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The Mossy Shipyard by Bryan Woods - 1:1
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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It's been 1.5 months of "aging" the Pink Ivory sample - the plank was laying on one specific side in a sunlight on my table, but not in an extreme way, sun hits it at an angle. As expected, it got darker, almost like a fresh vs aged red brick Coincidentally I bought that piece of Ivory because of the build log where brick oven was made out of pink ivory "bricks": https://modelshipworld.com/topic/11140-washington-galley-by-yamsterman-148-scale-pof/?do=findComment&comment=436782 To simplify the comparison I split it in half, the difference is clear (on the second photo both halves are flipped). No sanding to avoid damaging the "patina" layer, so sorry for some stains or fingerprints. Text says "shadow" and "exposed", but you can easily guess which one is which Both pillars were also in a direct sunlight, and looks like the one with Osmo finish aged tiny little bit less. Even when aged they look quite fine, and I think I'll go with it instead of a pear / box / ebony that are the usual candidates The texture is interesting - it has some grain, but not extreme like a walnut. It looks rougher when surrounded by the pear/box hull, but not too extreme or out of scale, even on close-up photos: (I know that this is not how pillars are attached to the beams, these are just test pieces freestanding on the keelson)
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Kit Review - HMS ENTERPRIZE (1774) by CAF MODELS
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
La Belle 1684 by Gregor – Finished - 1:64 scale
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
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Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic:
Santos Dumont No. 18 Hydroplane 1907 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:16
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I love your building jig! Looks like a loom from some angles
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Now that is "painting with wood" taken literally, well executed!
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Looking for ideas for work area
Mike Y replied to Desertanimal's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As always strongly recommend to buy an electrical lifting table, they are quite affordable nowadays with many companies on the market (including IKEA that sells frames separately). Replace a flimsy office tabletop with a sturdy solid wooden one - and you will end up with a fantastic build table that allows you to find a perfect height for any operation. I added an inset vise and peg holes into mine, the possibilities are endless. It is a relatively new "accessory" that is often overlooked, well worth the cost. I would avoid hammering mortise joint with a chisel on such a table, so it is not a full replacement for a workbench if you do a normal woodworking. But more than sturdy for all the modelling needs. Some examples of my setup (IKEA table frame, solid top cut to size of the working area, Veritas inset vise), very easy to customize it for your space.
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Glad to see your new build, subscribed with interest
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Thanks Druxey and Alan! Sometimes a little nudge is all we need Toni, it feels similar to pear or box when it comes to hardness, definitely not soft. Holds an edge pretty well, but despite a clean geometrical shape the edge blurs visually due to the grain of the wood. But definitely an interesting wood to have in your palette. Will report in a couple of months on the way it ages!
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Experimenting with different woods for the Pillars in the Hold. Thought it might be a good opportunity to use Pink Ivory that I had in the stash for some reason. It is a very beautiful wood with pink shavings, indeed! A simple jig really helps to hold these tiny pieces when shaping. Scraping is a great way to get a smooth surface with a clean edge! Completed test pieces. The one with a tenon was finished with Osmo Polyx and the one on the left (with no tenon) has no finish. For colour comparison I made a photo on top of some pear parts (one finished and one - a rough sheet cutoff) Pink Ivory has a clearly pronounced grain resembling walnut, clearly out of scale. Though pillars in the hold definitely have a rough life I might still go with it, it might add an interesting accent deep in inside the hull when viewed from the side: As most of such woods it would likely loose its beautiful colour when exposed to UV, and would likely become brown-ish. I left these test pieces exposed on the table and will check them in a couple of months. Does anyone have any experience with this wood? What do think on the colour? I don't want my model to look like a clown car, but a bit of variety might not hurt
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Tools update time! A friend printed some vacuum adapters for me The one for the planer works like a charm! Using the model from Oliver (see https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36705-suction-adapter-for-the-proxxon-dh40-for-download) Table saw received an update as well, the factory design is squeezing all the air through a narrow opening, generating a whistling noise louder than the actual saw. Now the opening is opened up, so the air can flow freely with a nice wind noise Link to the model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742157 Since I was short on space - decided to make the adapter removable, on magnets. To improve the connection a groove should be machined. It was impossible to clamp that soft plastic part on the lathe, it was just sliding out of the chuck So I milled it on the rotary table. A single flute mill makes a dramatic difference - the dual flute quickly jams with a blob of melted plastic, while a single flute cuts clear separated chips (that are light, fly all over the place and get stuck to everything, argh). The resulting performance is not as great as on the planer, some dust still escapes, but it is still a great improvement comparing to the default adapter. Can absolutely recommend both upgrades, especially the planer!
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This definitely looks repairable (replacing only these particular frames), Isopropyl Alcohol is a common solution - it dissolves the glue and then evaporates without leaving a trace, allowing you to replace the parts without going for a full rebuild! Hope to see you back in this log after a well deserved break 😊
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Nah, I just borrowed a phone selfie stick / tripod contraption from my teenage daughter and used a "photo timer" feature on the phone It is an essential item for her, how would you do some outdoor selfies and group photos otherwise?
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Read some advices elsewhere on MSW on "3 inches from each side", but please learn from my mistakes - make a cardboard mockup in real size, put it on the future display location, etc. Trying to understand your display case dimensions from a CAD model or theoretical calculations is a path to failure, don't ask me how I know (my "aquarium" is 1.5x larger than envisioned )
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Ok, the modelling block is over, decided to ignore that dip and make a normal straight lower deck like on all the other ships: Remaining beams are cut out of boxwood. Cutting curved blanks really makes a big difference, I extracted 10 planks from the same width of a sheet instead of the previous 6. They are rough from the bandsaw, but milling setup takes care of it, and the result are nice and smooth beams Marking beam locations was a bit nerve-wracking. Pencil was not precise enough when working on such angle, but a marking knife is perfect for that job. Taking a lot of care to not scratch anything around... Finally! I can go back to building instead of overthinking
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Thank you both. Druxey, I tried imagining it in 3d (also using Swan and Pandora 3d drawings to help imagining it), and still can't imagine the dip being in place there. I'm likely reading too much into the plans. According to Hahn's book (Ships of American Revolution) the proposed alterations were implemented in reality, and the ship went into British service with all of them in place. Would not doubt his research, definitely not the can of archived worms that I want to open His book does not mention anything on the lower deck details, they were omitted entirely from his model.
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