Mike Y

Another update
 
I bottled it and decided not to put scarf joints into the moulded rail so I'm using simple butt joints instead.  I wanted the rail to look as best it could with all of the details lining up.  So I marked out the position both sides - I like to use automotive lining tape to see the run and I leave it on until the glue has dried.


I then bent and glued the rails on which needed quite a lot of heat to get a tight fit around the bow.  I have got a very tiny crack in it on the starboard side but I think it will be ok.



I really wanted to get a good joint into the rabit with this plank - I think it came out ok


So next I am going to make and fit the planking in between the whale and moulded rail.
 
Mark

Hi All
 
Time is not a friend of mine at the moment but I have been watching others build projects (enviously 😆).  I have got some done hence the update and thanks to everyone that took the time to give advice and the very lovely comments.
 
The first thing was to fit two more plank strakes on the bulwarks and then pierce the holes for the scuppers and hawse holes.  Nothing really tricky about this you just have to be careful cutting the holes so that you don't tear the wood too much.





Next was to make and fit the deck clamps for the smaller aft and forward decks.  Learning from my previous attempt at placing clamps I really took my time marking these out with a digital height gauge.  I think this took me about 4 hours to get right until I was absolutely happy with their placing.  I also used a technique that @Tobias uses with tiny spirit levels athwartship.  These things are so cheap and yet they allowed me to checked my levels even further.  I used quite a lot of clamps to make sure that my efforts stayed where they were.  Cheers Tobias  


 
Next was to plank the gap between the already fitted planking and the clamp.  All I would say about this is if you measure and plan it accurately it's a fairly straightforward job.  I can imagine it being a nightmare if you don't.  The clamps are slightly thicker than the planks and just need tapering into the planks below. I've put a photo below to show what I mean.






Note to self - use a lower resolution camera as these photo's show everything
 
Ok so as always - what did I do wrong?  Well I cut the planking too short  - Its not a problem but I forgot to allow for the scroll to the gunwale.
 
This is how I cut it.

And this is what I missed

Its not a problem as I will fix this later on when I plank the outside but for fellow builders this could save you from doing the same.
 
I'll get some more done as and when I can - I think I need to be retired so that I can enjoy my hobby more!!
 
Cheers all - Mark
 
 
 
 

Hi Toni - thanks very much 👍
 
Not too much of an update but I've been installing the deck permanently  - It really did just click together with very little in the way of clamps.

After all of the beams were installed I finished off the mast partner with the corners that I had not made originally.  I also set the angle aft within it for the mast.


Next were the pump partners - I admire all of you builders who work in a smaller scale.  I wanted to keep it true to the original ship and made the joints accordingly.  This was tricky at 1/24th scale so how you lot do it on a smaller scale I have no idea.


Lastly I faired the deck - this is as satisfying as fairing the hull.  You know that when you have done it - it's another mile stone in the build.  A few pictures 



Its so annoying when you see that you cut a beam a little too short - 🤣


So now I need to get nailing - I've discovered that this is not my favourite job.  I'll have a go at that next weekend.   There are some things that I could have improved upon - Firstly the very rear stern hatch is not quite straight and square.  I've obviously messed up a bit there but it's easily fixed.  Secondly I can see that some of my beams are just slightly too short and this will cause some corrections when I make the waterway and spirketting.  Again it's all solvable so I'll tackle those issues at a later date.
 
I can't thank you all enough for your kind comments - Cheers Mark

Hi All
 
Work continues on the deck and I've been making the short and thinner half beams.  The plans give you a very good idea of the shape but don't give the individual shapes for the undersides although the lengths are shown separately.  This simply means that you have to use your brains a bit and translate the drawings as you see fit.  Thinking back I would have struggled with this concept at the beginning of this build but now I can see what is required.
 
So here are the eight half beams.


Now just for a change and to try something new I thought that I would make the female part of the dovetail joint first and then fit the end of the beams to suit.  This was not a great idea and I won't be doing that again - it's so much harder that way around and I couldn't get the joints as tight as I wanted.  Anyway they turned out ok and here they are fitted on the ship.



I still need to drop a few of them further into the deck clamp but thats an easy job.  On the whole I think the run of the deck looks pretty good as this is only a dry fit and I don't think it will take much sanding at all.


I can see some slight variations on the dovetails for the waterway and spirketting so I guess that will need some adjustment when the time comes to make them.  I'm not going to make the pump partners until the deck is fixed in place either.  So now I have to remove all of this work and make a start on the deck shelf which is fitted to the entire length of the deck clamp.  This shelf is there as no knees are fitted to the beams on this ship and it looks quite difficult to make.  Hopefully I'll have something to share soon
 
Cheers Mark
 

Wow - thanks druxey!
Thanks mate 👍
 
This is a bit of a nothing post below but sometimes I just love the simple things that are just so accurate.  Two pins - a length of red cotton - dead centre the length of the hull.  If only everything was this easy

Well at last I've finally had some time to do a little on my ship.  So I've started making the rest of the main beams and this is another very wood hungry job.  In fact I was really surprised just how much wood these parts use.  Firstly I cut them out and sanded them all to their curved shape.

I have decided to do the stern beams first and this is where I found a bit of a discrepancy in my build.  The wing transom also acts as the last beam and I found that it sits 1mm too high.  I'm not surprised to be honest as this was one of the first jobs I did when starting this build.  I didn't realise at the time how much photocopies of plans can be out and also looking back I didn't check my measurements often enough........so I'll take the 1mm as a bit of a win.  What it did mean though was I had to gently increase the hight of the beams towards the stern.  Not a problem to do so thats what I did.
 
I also had to cut out the dovetails for the waterway and spirketting into each beam which is a job that I was unsure of how to do accurately.  I considered using the mill but in the end I decided to cut them by hand as this is a skill that do need to improve.  So here's how I did it.
 
Firstly I glued the templated onto the top of the beams and then marked the depth of the dovetails which in my case is 2mm

Next using a blade I cut the square ends of each joint to the required depth

Then I cut the deepest point of the dovetail which is basically stabbing the blade in and then scored the 2mm depth line along its full length.

It was only after doing these cuts that I attempted the diagonal cuts.  I found that I had to be very delicate with this cut as its so easy to split the wood.

Then I cleaned the joint up by using a chisel

And the final result looked like this - I was quite surprised just how nicely they turned out.  Its one of those jobs where its just better not to think about it too much and just get on with it.

So I'm halfway there now and these beams seem to make the hull look much more solid.



And yep it all lines up with the wing transom.......it's just a little high 🤣

So I'll now make a start on the forward beams 👍  I've not yet cut any of the rebates for the hatches and carlings because I want to fire a line straight down the middle using thread once all of the beams are in.  That will give me a really good datum to keep things nice and straight.
 
Cheers Mark
 

As you know, Chuck faired the hull with the top jigs in place. After supporting the hull with some planking, he was able to remove the jigs and add the fairing caps for both shape and support. Through hands on experience he knows that this approach will work out nicely. I wasn't so sure that it would work out the same for me. I was concerned that after removing the top timber jigs, I would find myself having to fair the hull a lot more. This would be quite difficult with the planking already on the hull. With that in mind, I decided to take a different approach.
 
I added a chock between each frame where they would be covered by planking. Adding the chocks meant that I could pull the laser cut top timber jigs (before doing any planking) while maintaining support for the frames. After adding the fairing caps, I could fair the hull more accurately at the shear. Generally this turned out to be true at least for me. There were some areas at the shear that needed more work, but an inch or so below the shear the fairing work was good. Yes, a few hours of extra work that turned out well in the end.
 
Notice that there is still enough room for the .025" cap rail to sit just below the top of the transom.
 
There was an enormous amount of work needed to fair these aft cants. It took me the better part of three days. Remember this is boxwood, not AYC. Anyway that's done now.😁

Mike

I just got back from the set where they will be filming.  It was very interesting indeed.   I brought about half of the ship models and tools needed to set up the house and workshop.   I met some of the actors and an army of crew moving furniture around and staging the house.
 
I have to be back there for the next few days as they get most of the heavy stuff done.
 
Just a few of the items I am bringing.
 
All this stuff is mine and also from my local NJ club members.  The paintings will hang in a yacht club scene or two.  Painted by my friend and club/msw member Richard Lane.
 
Some of the models are his also along with Tom Ship Model (Tom Ruggiero) here on MSW and from local club. Some old tools and a kit stash etc. Old Nr Journals and books and an old Preac.
 
My old ropewalks and serving machine. An old coffee mug from a Joint clubs conference,LOL and one of my old hats.
 
You might notice my Longboat model is now American and the flag and name are changed for the movie…along with the Ed Harris character’s name on the side.  I made the name plate in my laser cutter…all together a very interesting experience so far.
 
The last photo shows how I will be setting up his workbench while he works on his longboat.
 

There will be a junk scrap box and all around messy shop my own and many of yours.

 

Funny!  Yes it is quite the experience.  The movie is called Riff Raff.  Its a remake of an old movie.  Should be fun.
 
I will be setting up a garage workshop for them down to the sawdust on the floor.  
 
Filming has begun and I should be in the thick of it for a while.
 
chuck

Thank you guys.  Work will slow down for a while.  I have been hired to help out on a feature film for the next couple of weeks.  The lead actor is a ship modeler.  I have been asked to help set up a believable ship model workshop and stage the home with my models along with others from my New Jersey club members.  Its exciting and a once in a lifetime thing I just couldnt pass up.
 
The lead character played by Ed Harris will be building my Medway Longboat kit in his workshop.  How great is that…along with my tools and other things to dress up his garage workshop.  I am
going to help teach them how to fake it as a ship modeler.
 
Starring Ed Harris, Dustin Hoffman, Jennifer Coolidge and Gabriel Union.  

Finally finished up the stern details today.  At least up to the point I would like to do them for this chapter.
 
First up was to paint the top of the transom before adding the actual carvings.  I didnt have to paint all the way to the upper edge.  I didnt want a painted seam to show afterwards.  I also marked the lower areas so I knew where to stop the painting as well.  You cant tell in the photos but its not black at all.  Its a very muted brown black and even gray.   I didnt want it to be too stark a black.  I also dusted some blue on there as well.  So much for my photo skills, LOL.
 

The two figures (port and starboard) were removed as they wont be added till last in this series of steps.  Then the actual carved transom was glued into position.  Once again this was after some initial cleanup and staining to make it match the wood color.  Old masters gel stain (fruitwood) was used once again.
 

With the transom carving secure it was time to focus on the forward side of the carving.  Basically the thickness of the carved transom is thicker port and starboard.   Where it hangs over on both sides.  There is a little carved detail in the center of this as well which can be seen on the contemporary model.  My solution was to build up this area with two layers.  The first middle layer is laser cut in boxwood.   This layer was cleaned up of it laser char and then shaped a bit with some sandpaper and files.  The edges were rounded off and I just had some fun with it.  You can see my example being held in the clamp.  You guys can do as much as you like with this piece.  Photo is below.  Then the most forward layer will be glued on as well.   This is a resin casting.
 

When gluing them on you must finesse them a bit.  Meaning you may have to trim some of the hull molding etc.  You can fill any cracks or seams with wood filler and generally speaking try to blend them all together.  The photo below shows these two layers on the model.  They were glued to the forward side of the transom.
 

Next up was to add the columns.  This is pretty straight forward.   All of these pieces are laser cut for you.  The tops and bottoms of the columns are 1/16" thick.  They were cleaned of laser char and filed to suit.  Then glued on the transom.  The long fluted columns are thinner but laser cut as well.  The laser char sanded from these and the each column was sanded to length for a tight fit between the tops and bottoms we just added.  This takes a while to do but isnt difficult.  You may also notice some molding at the base of each window.  They are between the columns bases.   These are laser cut too.  Just remove the char and round off the top edge like a quarter round.  Then glue them in.
 

Lastly we can put those two standing figures back where they belong.  But before you do...there are tiny laser cut bases made for them.  These bases or the floor...rock...the ground...whatever you would like to call them need to be shaped.  They are shaped like a little step.  I did this rather than incorporate them into the casting.  Everybody's model is slightly different.  You can customize this base so your figure fits perfect on your model.   See the photo...
Just sand it free of char and file some bumps and grooves into it.  Mine are hardly noticeable in the photo but they are there.  Make it look like a stone or rock base.  Using this keeps the nice run of the molding that wraps around the stern while covering the seams between all those layers we created.   It covers up where the figures will stand while creating the correct angle for the figure to match the transom.  It will be hardly visible.   Shape yours to suit.

Here the figure is glued in place but not until after the tiny base was glued in position first.  You can see the figure stepping on the small rock carved base.  This pretty much finishes up the stern to the point where I want to be in this chapter.  Its for the most part complete except for some very small features we add much much later.  I think it came out rather nice considering this is a kit.   But my goal was of course not to make it look kit-like at all.
 


 


 
The contemporary model...
 

 

Just a little bit of work today to start chapter 4.
 
I actually did forget to add something for chapter 3 so I just made it the first thing in this new chapter.  That was the anchor lining.  Its pretty straight forward.  Each strake of the anchor lining is laser cut although it may not line up perfectly with everyone's planking on individual models.  You guys may make some planks narrower or taper them less up there.  But its better to have them I suppose and if folks have to they can easily make them from scratch.
 

Then starts the stern details...
 
First up was to scratch some molding for the lowest one just above the square tuck.   You guys have done this before.   1/8" x 1/32" strip of boxwood scraped.
 
Then the frieze was cut out and glued on.   The darker one of course to match the friezes on the side of the hull.
 

Then the upper molding above the frieze was added.  It was done in two layer.  The first is laser cut for you on a curve to match the curve of the transom.  There are registration marks to help center it etched onto the FORWARD side of the molding.  This is the side that gets glued to the transom.   The AFT side of this strip need to be sanded with an angle along its entire length.   This helps establish the correct angles of the second layer which we will add later.  The laser cut piece on the bottom is a non sanded example just to show the laser etched lines that help you center it.   The ends will hang over on both sides of the hull quite a bit.  That is by design.   But you can see the other example on top which has been sanded along its entire length on an angle,  basically making it triangular in profile or wedge shaped.   This can be glued on the model once completed.
 

 
Thats when you can scrape another length of 1/8" x 1/16" boxwood strip which can be glued on top of it.   Its just a cheat to help establish the correct angles of this complex piece of molding.
 
Then the sides are completed and trimmed which is a boring long process I wont bother posting here...bit in the end you get this below.   You can see how it extends beyond the side to create a little platform.  This is for the standing figure.   
 

 
Its not time to glue these figures on permanently yet....but I did want to do a test to check its size and fit and placement.  I removed them right after.  Note how the figures follow the angle of the transom when viewed from the side of the hull.  The figure was designed to look like it was stepping forward and leaning.  This is important for  the look of the model.   They face almost outward from the side so the front of the torso almost faces port and starboard.   Although there is a slight turn aft as well.   One foot also slightly hangs over the molding which is correct but maybe not this much once I actually glue them on permanently.
 




 
Thats it for now but a little painting is next up so I can continue work on the stern.  There are the typical columns and such as well as the carvings above the windows.
 
Chuck
 
 

Unfortunately when you are using the woods we use it becomes impossible to outsource.  That creates another huge problem.  Getting enough wood milled in Boxwood or Yellow Cedar is tough enough.  Having it shipped to supply another laser cutter is impossible.   The costs would increase by another 30 to 35%.  I Have gotten quotes for laser cutting and its ridiculous.   In fact I do outsource some laser cutting where I use plywood,  the Winnie bulkheads for example.  But the limited woods they carry are problematic unless I start using Basswood like every other manufacturer.    I may laser cut one Speedwell in Basswood just to see how it looks.   But I have to find someone willing to build it.   If it works I could have a dozen ready to go in no time at all!!!  But if someone is spending this money they dont want to use basswood.
 
If I were to use Basswood or any other wood not suitable for better ship models it would be an easy solution.  
 
I would be cutting more Speedwell parts right now if I had the milled wood on the shelf.  Logistics are awful.
 
But like I said…I wont limit the number of Speedwell kits but they will be slow in the making.   Getting regular shipments of 100's of milled yellow cedar sheets or Boxwood sheets is not an easy task.  And its super expensive.   I will always keep one or two of each chapter on the shelf.  Remember at the same time I am still laser cutting Winnie parts and Cheerful parts and a whole host of others.   Laser time is the easy part...getting material is another.
 
 
 
 

Thanks...I am really happy with the frieze thus far in the project.  Just a quick update that I have finished the port side molding and friezes which is nice.   That completes chapter 3.   Next up I will start work on the outboard stern details and carvings.  That will fill up chapter 4 so I can start work on the interior in chapter 5.
 
Have a great week guys!!!
 

Hi, Davits:
 
 

A story about a great local business making a High quality specialized product.  Readers invited to draw their own conclusions.
 
Evergreen Winterwear is a small local business located on Main Street in the tiny North Woods town of Ely, MN.  Employing local people, they make and sell very high quality outdoor garments for customers ranging from infants to adults.   The owner, wife of a noted arctic explorer, eventually grew tired and sold the business to an outside investor who promised “to take the business to the next level.”
 
Within month’s of taking ownership, he had closed the Ely, MN work room, laid off the workers, and outsourced all production.  All that was left was “The Brand.”  Dedicated customers, my wife included, were not fooled.  The new business closed within a year.  
 
Fortunately, in this case the original owner had the technical expertise to run the business.  She bought unsold equipment back at auction and re-established the business in its original form- making and selling a high quality product on Ely’s Main Street.
 
Roger

I wanted to start a topic dedicated to a software tool that I wrote to automate the downloading of MSW threads into a merged PDF. A few words of caution before getting into the details and descriptions - I've developed this in my spare time with somewhat limited access to different operating systems and computers (a.k.a - limited testing). I can't guarantee that it is completely bug free but it has been working for me over the past few days. 
 
The GitHub page is located here: https://github.com/VTHokiEE/msw2Pdf with the releases and a readme attached. I might eventually load the source code, but I haven't gotten there yet.
 
Currently,  I don't recommend running this on a Mac (OSX) yet simply because you have to change permissions and allow internet downloads to execute and it is simply not the user experience that I'm hoping to a achieve. I'm currently working towards a prettier user interface and app packaging so that the deployment and usage is easier all around but as this is a spare time thing I didn't want to hold it up.
 
Direct download link for windows: https://github.com/VTHokiEE/msw2Pdf/blob/main/releases/msw2Pdf-win.exe
 
Motivation and Features
Automate the creation of a single merged PDF from a multiple page thread without opening, printing each page to PDF, and then merging the documents. Requirements
Chrome browser
Usage
Both Windows and Mac require the executable to be run from the command prompt (Windows) and terminal (Mac).  Once the cmd prompt or terminal is launched navigate to the location of the executable and run it as noted below. Please note - do not include anything after the numbered topic name portion of the url (eventually I'd like to add more flexibility here - it is very much a work in progress).
 
Windows:
msw2Pdf-win.exe <url>
Mac OSX
./msw2Pdf-macos <url>
Examples
Windows:
msw2Pdf-win.exe https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22768-18th-century-merchantman-half-hull-planking-kit-by-vthokiee-finished-nrg-148/
Mac (OSX):
./msw2Pdf-macos https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22768-18th-century-merchantman-half-hull-planking-kit-by-vthokiee-finished-nrg-148/
 
Note: The current release requires the format of the url to be https://modelshipworld.com/topic/<topic>/
Troubleshooting
Could not find the Chrome browser Please verify that Chrome is installed on your computer and is located at one of the following locations
Windows:
'C:\Program Files (x86)\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe'
'C:\Program Files\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe'
Mac (OSX):
/Applications/Google Chrome.app/Contents/MacOS/Google Chrome
Todo
Create a user interface instead of utilizing the command line Allow users to enter the location of Chrome if installed in a different directory Allow users to select the save location for threads Allow the user flexibility in copying the target url  
Feel free to give it a try and let me know what issues you have. I can't promise that I'll be able to incorporate them all, but I'll see what I can do.

After a break of around 5 - 6 weeks, I resumed making frames. I needed to remake the dead flat. The dead flat #1 fit well and so was going to keep it. 
After making the dead flat again, I spent the last several days gluing it up. 
This time, I use my proxxon mill to cut the slots for the chocks. I am able to get square joints now instead of rounded. 
After I removed it from the jig, I placed it on the keel and placed the dead flat #1 on as well to check alignment etc. I was surprised to see the two were different at the top. After investigating, it seems the dead flat #1 has the top timbers moved outwards. If I spring them in around 1/4" each side, they fit the dead flat # 1 template.
My workshop is in a garage which is not air conditioned. In South Australia it can get warm in the shed as well as cold in the winter. Any ideas how I can avoid this issue occurring over the 12 frames I need to construct? Elastic bands or hold downs of some sort to be applied to the top timbers as each frame is made? Bring each frame inside the main house once completed?
 
In the 1st image, is having this many cut out likely to cause issues if I do not get to them all straight away?

 
I realised I could you my dremel and stand to help me sand the inside faces of the futtocks.

 
I now use my proxxon mill to cut the slots out. The cuts are far better than my manual cuts with a fret saw.

 
I glued the template of the frame onto 18mm masonite. I then assemble the pieces with wax paper underneath the glued joints. I drill 1.1 mm holes next to the frames and push in 1.15mm pins. These lock the frames whilst gluing up and holds the joints whilst they cure.

 
Once the frames are joined, I then make the chocks to strengthen the frames. I sized them to fit first and then used some PE pliers to hold then so I could reduce the depth of them.

 
A chock ready for gluing.

 
Glued in with titebond.
 
 

 
Chocks are now glued in. The wax paper stops the glue sticking to the template.

 
The bottom one fits the dead flat template perfectly. That was made today.
The one on top (the dead flat #1) was made around 6 weeks ago. It fits the pattern IF it is pushed in. I suspect I have to remake this but how do I avoid this recurring?

 
A top view of the issue. The far left one was assembled today.

I’m just starting this new project. Netherlands started WW2 with 23 submarines, split evenly between Netherlands-based and Dutch East Indies based. Seven of these subs were lost. O-13 first saw action in the Spanish civil war escorting ships, and then escaped from Netherlands to England in May 1040 with many other boats. However, already in June 1940 on her second war patrol in the waters between Norway and Denmark she failed to return. To this day the wreck has not been found, but every few years there are searches with newer equipment. The most likely cause of her loss is being struck by a mine in a (now known) minefield along her route, but also attacks by German aircraft and a collision with a Polish sub are remote possibilities.
 
This model will be radio controlled, and the boat will be in-between my Holland-class O-1 (the first sub in the Dutch navy) and the larger K-XVIII which fought the Japanese in Asian waters. Both those models still sail regularly and well.
O-13 was part of a class of 4, at 60 meters in length and with underwater displacement of 750 tons she was suitable for coastal waters, but also travelled to the Dutch islands in the Caribbean and the waters around Gibraltar. She had 4 torpedo tubes in the bow, one in the stern, and two 40mm guns retracting into buns. No deck gun was installed and some of the 40mm guns were removed as the class had significant stability issues.
 
I have the original build plans (which can be downloaded freely from the Dutch national archives), but photos, especially dock-photos are relatively rare. 
I plan to build a traditional plank on frame wooden hull, impregnated with epoxy and coated with woven glass. Inside will be a watertight compartment made up of several connected tubes to house the technology to fill and empty the dive tank, and to control the two props, rudder and diveplanes. I hope to include running lights in the wet area and also attempt to functionalisme the folding forward dive planes visible in the picture. Due to space constraints I will not aim to make moving periscopes and functioning torpedo’s for this model. In the end the model will be 120cm long, 13cm wide at its widest point, likely weigh 3-5kg, and use tubing of 50 and 75 mm diameter as water tight compartment.
So far, I’ve been doing rough planning of the location of components, closure means, and rough calculations of the required size of the dive tank to achieve a realistic waterline. I’ve also started to convert the build plans to individual frame drawings (taking into account the thickness of the hull planks (2mm) and the need to mount the frames on a build plank). Needless to say - this will not be a quick build!

Finally POF from you! Let me hop for a long and interesting journey  

Please please please share your finish technique!
Each photo is an eye candy for perfectionists! Everything is aligned, no gaps, clear joints, brilliant!

You have my older rope packages.  A few years ago I decided to make the rope lengths longer but keep the price the same.   Just to give folks a bit of a break with inflation and rising costs.  I am still maintaining those prices.  Yes that is 29 to 30 feet.   
 
My store will reopen sometime today.  I just returned from a trip to Annapolis and the Navy Yard Museum.   Below for example is the Crypt of John Paul Jones.
 
 
 
Chuck

Carol have you found someone to restore your Morgan? I live in Bremerton and if you can get the model to me I’ll give it a go. You would need to pay for material, I usé primarily Syren Ship Company products. I am NOT a professional and will charge nothing for restoration. 
 
Here are a couple of photos of my last build.

More experiments making blocks and deadeyes with new mystery material.  No laser char.
 
I call the ebony deadeyes and blocks...."Febony"   as they are not real ebony but its impossible to tell really.   The blocks and deadeyes are made from the same material I experimented with making delicate scrolls.   Again....no laser char which is fantastic.
 
These are my same old multi layer mini kits.   I just used the new material to see how they would look.  Tested a medium brown as well.   No dying or staining needed.  They are the same color all the way through.  These are all 4mm deadeyes.
 



 
Chuck
 
 

I cut a series of grooves using the gouges and veiners in a piece of softwood, then load the grooves with green honing compound. Cheap!