Mike Y

I might add that the this ship only has oarlocks in the middle of the ship, where the sides are somewhat parallel and the distance to the water is relatively even. The difference in angle to the water for the oars on the different position is in practice not that big. On another ship the situation might be different. I'm not sure that my experience can be generalized, but Cap'n Atli's experience seem to support it.
 
In the build I have completed the majority of the riveting. Only a few hard to reach ones in the narrow parts of the fore and aft remains. I have cut the pins close to the washers with scissors. This leaves a small peg sticking up. To flatten it (and to mimic a real rivet) I melted the peg with a soldering iron and flattened it using flat steel rod (I think it's called a mandrel in English).
 

 
With all the rivets done I have started with installing the frames. First I glue them, then I will drill holes and add tree nails. After some thought I think that it is easiest to wait with the stain on the frames until after the tree nails are installed (so that they can get the correct color as well).
 
To the left some of the last rivets in the fore have just been installed and the washers have just been glued in place.
 

 

Thanks Steven,
 
My own experience from rowing the reconstruction for a fair number of hours is that the length of the oars on different position has no effect. We have a rather wide variety of oars with different length and weight. It's much more important on how close to the side you sit, how strong and tall you are, what technique you have etc.
 
It's not much left of the riveting now. Soon I can proceed with other, much more fun, stuff.
 

 
 

Ah yes..... more, bigger, better!
The issues of being land locked and with shallow lakes around my neck of the woods. I have built and sailed 2 full sized sailboats and recently gave away the last one Maria. 
I have watched with great admiration the likes of Luke Powell build beautiful cutters. Perhaps in another life.
 
I was just thinking about why I do the work that I do this morning as I woke up, and I must say that there is really only one answer and that is because it makes me happy to be mucking about with ideas about how to do this or that with a bit of wood or brass or watercolour paint. Having the time to think about these things is a luxury that I know is not accessible to many, and that bothers me.
 
One of the joys of this forum for me is being able to watch and follow along many of the builds both simple and complex that are presented here. I read a comment about life from an author of a new book this morning "Use Less Share More" It sums up for me many of the things that I follow on this forum. Yesterday when I showed the beautiful curved lines in a bit of crab apple pruning gives me as much pleasure as spending an Hour being awe struck by the beauty and complexity of Doris's Royal Katherine made of paper and card. or GB's little fishing vessel . I learn from each. It is such a wonderful journey this learning thing.
So if you had told me in 1976 that I would be using bits of this 2 foot log of maple in a model of a sailboat that I had would be working on for 8 or more years, I would have said, hmmmm...interesting, where is your crystal ball?
 
Off now to fiddle with a few bits of maple.
 
Michael

Hello all and thanks for warm words! Not much worked last time, only small update. The Cathead supporter knee:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex

A short update

Thank you so much......I just wanted to reach out and let all of you know how grateful we are for every donation you folks have sent during the pandemic.   
 
Many of you have sent us donations large and small through the Donation box on the top right side of the forum.   I dont know the screen names of those who sent us a donation or I would thank all of you individually......but we appreciate the support.
 
It means a lot to us!!!  Thank You from all of us!!!
 
😍
 
 

Just a few cents  
 
The best way to think about it is "put yourself into others shoes".
 
First problem is simple and technical: it's impossible to find your build log link. Even in this topic, where some may be encouraged to have a look - there is no link in your signature. I honestly thought "oh, sure, let's have a look and maybe I can help a bit" - but no, it would take too much clicks just to find it.
See https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23663-how-do-you-add-links-to-your-build-logs-under-your-signature/
 
Second - make sure your question is asked clearly, and preferably with photos. Keeping correct terminology is pretty hard, especially for a beginner, so just using words is not the best idea. For example - I found your topic on deck cutouts, but it's pretty hard to really understand without any pictures. What are these "cutouts"? How are they located in relation to masts and so on? 
A lot of people would either guess what you mean or just move over to another question, because it takes too much efforts to decode. 
 
Third consideration is a bit harsh, and I am not sure how to put it in a very neat terms - but first big heap of initial modelling knowledge is acquired mostly by reading other logs. Majority of newbie questions were already asked bajillion times, there are FAQs, manuals, tutorials and so on spread over MSW.
Even with best intentions, it slowly gets old to explain the very same thing for a dozen times, so people loose motivation to help.
I cringe when I read some of my first questions, I want to travel back in time and slap myself "just read the manual one more time before asking!". Using this moment to thank everybody who was helping!  
Ignore the particular vessel, just pick the build log where the build process is shown, not just the end result. Some logs are very educating, you will learn a lot from reading them. Basic techniques are the same. Do not hesitate to go to scratch build logs - there are fewer of those, but often they are very detailed and educating. 
 
The balance is delicate. Please do not be shy to post your updates and your logs! Everybody is welcome.
But think about it like a giant dance event. You come through the doors and you are in a crowd with thousands of people. They are open and a lot are keen to teach you and dance with you. But first you need to watch a few tutorials on basics, and then just start a small talk to get familiar with some of them. Make yourself friendly and available (see - build log signature). They are under no obligation to help you, but also there is physically no time to dance with everybody. You need to stand out of the crowd just a little bit, to make sure you will be noticed.
 
Good luck, and hope you will find your way and join one of the friendliest and constructive communities in the internet! 
 
 
 

Newcomer may know that the new Proxxon table saw from Japan is $100 cheaper and worse than previous germany version. It has too many issue to compare with an old version, so I would recommend to buy the top class Byrnes table saw if you really don't need small size full function table saw.
 
Yes. Most of the problems of the new Proxxon table saw comes from smaller size. Its fence is smaller than before, and deleted some functions. Also, its track is too shallow that very hard to make DIY wood sled for safer work. 

As a result, I always took a risk when I cut long strips. I used 800mm aluminium profile. The metal rod was not fixed, so it could be a big accident like a jam anytime. I felt that it would eventually happen in the future soon, so I decided to make a fence extension.
 
 
https://www.micromark.com/Featherboard-Fence-for-80463
First of all, Micromark sells same table saw, and they invented useful accessories such as rip fence. Go to the link and check the aluminium fence. It is the thing exactly what I want. Unfortunately, Micromark cut the fence and only sell 10 inch long fences. I need 800mm = 30 inch long fence.
 

 
I designed and ordered aluminium profiles to CNC processing company. Total cost was about $35 excluding bolts and nuts.
 

 
I found that I didn't make spaces for bolt heads. I bought the cheapest bench drilling machine with 9mm metal drill bit. It costed about $80. 😒 Its tip twists quite big, so I can't use it for precision model work...
 

 
I've heard about terrible stories regarding bench drill machine accidents... 😖
 
It's done without any accident!
 

 
I finished assembly. It has very simple structure.
 

 
To hold fence extension, I use drill with hexa bit. For a regular work, I tighten three screws. For a heavy work, I'll tighten five screws.
 

 
It looks good. It works good. I'm happy. 😆
 

 
No problem to rotate front and rear knobs.
 

 
These are scratches on fences. Not a big deal and replaceable part.
 
I hope this tip helps people who want fence extension. 😉
 

That didnt take long......Its all gone.   The last Syren Rope package has left the building.   Time for a pint!!  

I am not going to be revealing those methods just yet.....I just cut my income by 30% discontinuing rope.   So I am keeping the block tutorial proprietary for the time being.  I hope folks will respect that decision.   But once I hang up my apron for good I will create a nice detailed tutorial.
 
Chuck

8 lb. guns

 

 

 

 

 

 

Probably speaking out of the top of my hat here.... But would it not be possible to make a cradle that you can hold the hull in and be able to revolve it and lock it into position for various operations. The model engineers do it for working on the underside of model locomotives, The automotive industry does it for building cars.
Beautiful work on the metal parts Mark.
 
Michael

Hi druxey, I so wish I could take a jewelry class somewhere. I seen now how exceedingly helpful that would be. Silver soldering still eludes me...
Other things in life have taken me away from the shop. But while distracted by other things, it helped clarify my next steps, resolving the numerous chicken and egg issues of what has to come before what.
 
I have concluded that I cannot install the barrels of the guns on the gundeck afterwards. The stool bed and wedged quoin are way too delicate; several have broken off just picking up the carriages. I will need to epoxy the barrels both at the capsquares and at the quoin, possibly pinning somehow at the stool and quoin. So all of this has to happen before I start closing in the gundeck with the upper deck over it.
 
And once the cannon are sticking out (druxey, is that the official naval description?), I need to avoid putting the hull on its side or perhaps even upside down. So everything requiring turning the hull upside down or sideways needs to be completed before the cannon go in and I can start on the upper decks.
 
So, I first need to finish as much carpentry work as possible that will create shavings inboard, so I can tip the hull over and clean it out before proceeding. This means cutting all of the mortises for the beams on the upper deck, quarterdeck and forecastle, and roundhouse. Also, drilling the hawse holes.
 
Then I need to finish up the outboard work including planking as much as possible, so I can turn the hull on its sides for painting the wales and the cutwater at the stem. I also need to consider finishing more of the stern works, which will also require turning the hull upside down--particularly for the frieze painting on the lower counter.
 
Next step, then, cutting the beam mortises. Last time, I laboriously measured each beam location from the drawing, then measured from a station line on the hull. I had to square every beam up, to ensure they were parallel. This was complicated by the fact that many beams were asymmetrical due to the halved joint between the two parts. Each side was offset a little from the other side.
 
Now many years later, with CAD drawings available, I am planning to print the upper deck, glue it to some stiff card, and lay it on the beam shelves. Then I can simply mark the location of each beam for the mortise.
 
For the first time, I took electronic copies of my CAD drawings to the local UPS store, where they printed out very accurately dimensioned sheets on 30 X 42 inch paper. Doesn't look too bad, hate to cut up the sheet. But it was only $3 US per sheet, so I will go back for more.
 
Mark
 

That Tanganyika was much easier to use, but a lot of the planks have this mottled effect in them, making it look like those 'mottled' paint schemes I see on WW2 German aircraft in the North African theatre...
 
One thing I must stress, it is very important to mask off the finished engraved upper hull before sanding...

OK, I never meant to plank the whole Sphinx hull, as this model will be thrown away once all the info I need has been taken from it. But couldn't help myself. this is a very quick planking job (a day), using scrap 1x4 Tanganyika instead of wasting the pear on a disposable hull - no filling, just a quick sand so I have a smooth (ish) surface for checking all parts that are to be fixed to it. I am happy with the hull lines, nice shape to plank, too.

To G. Delacroix - thanks for the info, I made the new one items with no wedges
To garyshipwright - I am using "10 Degree 0.1mm Tip Carbide CNC Bits Flat Bottom Milling Cutter V Shape" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/852725456.html) for most of CNC 3D carvings. Question about tutorial - I am so sorry, making a video tutorial would be too time consuming and my knowledge of English is minimal.
I continue with the assembly of the capstans.
 

I have taken a bit of a break from this model as I found more interest in continuing with my other build, the Sloop from Roslagen. I also was a bit tired of rivets after I had made all of them. Adding the washers is even more tedious, and requires more focus when threading the tiny holes over the pins.
 
Anyhow, a bit of progress has been made.
 

Hi Jorge, you PM is answered, sorry for delay...
 
meanwile the starboard upper head rail and knees are ready:
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex

So before the weekend kicks in with full force and focus shifts elsewhere, another update. This one is more of a milestone actually.
All frames are in place! Yay 😄 
The boat will be two masted sprit rigged, hence two mast supports are visible in the stern shot.
Bow view:

 
And stern view. 
The three most forward frames are still wet from paint, therefore a little darker than the rest.

 
I mentioned in my previous post that a stringer is next. However I need to cut some more uplings (?) Each larger thwart needs more support than what a single frame accomplishes. After those are in place the stringer is next.
Then I need to check what the shipwright in the book did next. I guess it is easiest to actually follow the steps from real build.
 
Another thought when looking at the above two pictures is that with "correct" lighting all the small discrepancies wont show 😉 
In the bow view above the light is much more forgiving than in the stern view. Something to consider when it goes on display.
 
And thanks for likes and comments!

I spoke on the phone with Cathy, one of the Seawatch husband and wife team, a couple of days ago after encountering a problem with their ordering software when ordering a book from them. She got back to me by phone quickly. She's got a wonderful sense of humor and we had a nice chat. To keep the forumites up to date, the problem with their ordering software is "being worked on," but as it turns out, their son did the coding on the website for them and he, who conincidentally lives in my neck of the woods, was one of the many who lost his home and all of its contents in one of the firestorms that we've been having on, it seems, an annual basis, here in Northern CA. All of his data on maintaining the Seawatch website was lost in the fire and this has seriously hampered their website maintenance, so they are limping along at the moment. 
 
Bob, her husband, is presently not ambulatory due to a non-life-threatening health issue which should resolve in time, but that has left Cathy to "hold the fort" and pretty much handle the Seawatch business on her own. Seawatch is a small family operation. Jeff Bezos has spoiled a lot of us who now expect everything ordered on line to arrive in a day or two. Amazon they ain't. Yet, they are a valuable resource to our hobby. So, let's cut them a bit of slack. The shipping of their books is outsourced and shipping is indiscriminately impacted by the pandemic these days. They have no more control over how fast things come through the mail as we do.

Order Feb 11, received Feb 19.  Like everyone else, no email confirmation or acknowledgement of any kind (very uncommon).   Though I’m happy with my order.
 

Edit:  Just a note here that I discovered a random sheet inserted loosely in the box that I almost tossed with the box packaging.  I still don’t know which title this is supposed to come with but very odd that it’s just thrown in the box.  I could have very easily thrown it away.
 
Keep an eye out for it if you are ordering Speedwell or the Hayling Hoy titles.
 
  

Just for the information - looks like the order queue is pretty short now (Mikhail says that he has more time to manufacture them due to covid). My order was ready in just a few weeks (from the first email to the production process)! So if you were thinking about it, but were hesitating - now is the perfect time to order!
He has some standard cutter sets, from 15-ish to 25-ish items. One can even pick and choose the desired cutter types.
The price per piece is the same regardless of the cutter type, and only depends on the handle (plus box and shipping).
 
As all the others, I am very happy with the order and its quality (got the set of 23 items with pear handles).

Thank you druxey!
 
Dowmer, I can't use scrapers due to curvature and tapering. here are tools I have used for moulds and nearly completted second upper rail
 

 
Regards
Alex

Good morning.