Mike Y

I dont use wider stock 90% of the time.  I usually bend my strips to the desired curve as shown below.  Only with the tightest and most extreme bends do I pre shape from a wider piece.  I have almost completed teh planking of the Cheerful hull but have five strakes to go.  These were left off because I am actually doing a tech session at this months club meeting.  It will be a step by step on how to spile and physically shape a strip so it fits perfectly against the hull.   Beveling the plank is must as well so it fits tight against the last one you placed on the hull.   It really helps...another must do...would be to line out the hull before you begin planking planking.  See the tutorials on this site.  There will be some spring back bending like this so its important to go a bit more...
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

"kardeelblocks"

 

 
More of the smaller stuf including 26 canons for the "verdek" - deck

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I didn't want the captain to stare at his maps in the dark, so I brought him some lights

 

 

 
 
And finaly, I decided to make this piece (don't know the English word for it) which is absent in Winter's model.
But, I didn't like the open version.
 

 
 
I will keep you up to date more often, that's a promise...
 
Jack

The last details for the Captains Cabin.
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
On the pics I see that there is still some work to do.
 
Jack
 

Thanks Matti.
 
The Captains room (Kajuit)
 

 
 
 
 
Tjerk ordered himself a package from a well known 17th century furniture shop, that will keep him busy for a few hours:

 
 
 
 
I'm proud of him, he even used all of the screws.... (or they ended up at the bottom of the sea  )
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
Jack

● Beakhead Bulkhead and Deck Planking: I prefer to do the planking off the model, whenever possible, to avoid sanding into other parts. Here the deck planking is sanded and ready to be installed.
 

 
The planks were glued to the bulkhead and sanded. The doors were replaced with ladders like those that are now on the Mayflower replica. I used this simple jig to align the ladders. Ladders were glued with 5 minute epoxy applied with a pin. A rather slow process, but I think it's worth the wait.
 

 
The completed bulkhead and deck planking with no sanding necessary other than the outside curve and overall height of the bulkhead.
 

Thanks for the comments Christian, Carl, Ed, Maury, Alex, Mike and Greg. Much appreciated as always.
 
 
Christian - 1050 long (from tip of Bowsprit to tip of Driver Boom) x 740 high x 355 wide.
 
Jib Net
 
This is one of the fiddliest parts to make on the whole ship. It took me 2 1/2 days.
 
It starts by making the two spreaders from English Box. Then the two Horses were threaded through the holes in each end of the spreaders and an eye seized into the inboard end of each horse :
 

 

 
To tie the netting together I constructed a simple Jig :
 

 
Five double lengths of the netting were hitched around one spreader :
 

 
Then the tedious work of tying together every 2nd pair of the longitudinal netting began. The first couple of rows didn't turn out too well under magnification, but look OK to the eye :
 

 
Two days later (I had to wait for the glue to dry on the seizings before continuing on the next row) the second spreader was hitched to the free end :
 

 

 
The net fitted to the bowsprit. The forward ends of the horses attach to the eyebolts in the sides of the cap :
 

 

 
The aft ends of the horses are attached via lanyards to an eyebolt in each knighthead :
 

 
 Danny

Thank you Pat.
 
Jibboom Crupper
 
The aft end of the Jibboom is held fast by the Crupper, a similar arrangement to the Gammoning on the Bowsprit :
 

 
Jib Traveller
 
This is a tricky piece of "iron" work. The Traveller holds the Jib Outhaul and the running end of the Jib Stay. It's purpose is to allow the Jib sail to be adjusted or moved along the jibboom.
 
It consists of a ring which encircles the boom, a shackle to which will be attached the outhaul and the stay, and a hook which holds the tack of the jib (the forward corner).
 
I made the shackle and hook first, silver soldering the eyes. Then I bent the ring and slipped the shackle and hook through it, closed up the ring and finally silver soldered it closed. These pics show the assembly before cleaning up and blackening :
 

 

 
And the traveller on the jibboom :
 

 
  Danny

Assembling Frames.
 
Gimo

más

After adding the stern post I used a steel ruler to compare angle with transom and post.
Hmm, sure enough there was an even gap of 1mm. Another filler (trimmed) glued in place and some extra sanding and it will be good.

Gluing the false keel etc went okay 
 

 
as did its placement within the stand though the side pieces were slightly to large when the bulkheads were dry fitted so I added a small thin plank at the bottom to rise it slightly.
 

 
First bulkhead going in with helpful set squares trying to ensure that at least some angles are at right angles.
 

 
I will probably try and do two bulkheads an evening tidying the tops of the false keel as I go...

Update time again gents, before that I would like to thank you for the kind comments and for hitting the like button.
 
I seem to be stumbling from one disaster to another with this build, it's about time I started thinking more latterly and stop making stupid mistakes. 
 
As stated in my previous update I was having an issue with the floor riders, I notched the Keelson and that fixed the problem, the top of the riders were on the mark, 34mm / 1" 5/16 above the jig base, got something right at last.
 
All Floor riders were then glued into place and set aside to dry. I then went to fit the Mortar Deck Clamp and you got it, it was all to cock. Yet again the Floor riders have to come out and adjustments need to be made to the  Mortar Deck Clamp cut outs on the Futtock Riders.
 
The frames were marked up to the bottom  of the Mortar Deck Clamp (62mm or 2"3/8), each Floor rider ( including Futtock Riders ) was measured and adjusted accordingly and then marked up Port and Starboard on the underside, then dry fitted. the Mortar Deck Clamp was dry fitted and a few more adjustments were made. Eventually all parts came together and so the Floor Riders were again glued in, the Mortar Deck Clamp is currently dry fitted.
 
Next up came the Lumber Board and Strake, using my trusty Proxxon Router, Scroll Saw and Disc Sander all the parts were cut and made up, each of the Lumber Board and Strake pieces were left whole until I needed to cut them to fit between the Floor Riders, they are now fitted and will most definitely stay in place I think !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
So that's where I am at the moment and that's where I will stay for a while, the shipyard is in a state of suspension in order to allow my build buddies to catch up a little,( please don't think that this is in any way the hurry up ), it's more for me to think more into the what it is I'm supposed to be doing and try to get it right first time.
 
Grant, thanks mate for keeping me on the straight and narrow. Appreciate it.
 
It will also allow me time to work on my secondary build, (none ship related). A 15th / 16th century Crossbow from Mantua.
 
Some Pictures
 
Notched Keelson in position

 
Component parts of the Floor and Futtock Riders 

 
3 of the 5 constructed Floor Riders

 
The first Floor Rider in position and clamped down

 
All Floor Riders are positioned with the Mortar Deck Clamp dry fitted

 
All aspects of the build can be seen here, Frames, Floor Riders, Mortar Deck Clamps and Limber Board & Strake

 
End Section of the Limber Board and Strake

 
Finally two shots of the completed Limber Board & Strake

 

 
So once again your right upto date guys, if you have any questions please ask away.
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Well, my first keeper frame turned out to be another practice version.  I have not mastered the fit of the chocks. Starting on the most visible frame is probably a tactical error.
 
Just so you know that I am not napping, the latest try has produced some advancement.  I originally planed to use copper wire darkened with Liver of Sulphur for the double frame bolts (Grant's method).  I did not have much luck with it, staining the wood as well as the copper.  Grant graciously tried to coach me through it but I did not do so well.  I started to wonder how hard it would be to make the bolts from ebony.  I had a block of ebony in the shipyard so I started to play.
 
I cut the planks to 1/32 square dowels and with the help of the Byrne's thickness sander and finally the Byrne's draw plate they turned into .032 inch round dowels.  Not too hard, it was fun.  The first picture shows the frame and the ebony.  I really like the way they look and i only have 200 or so to make. 
 

 

 
I think that I will start on the interior doubles and see how I do with those.

Onto the thickstuff.  I have learned over and over that reading and studying only take you so far - it is the creation of an accurate 3D model that really brings things to life.  And this was reinforced again here.
 
I had never really associated the thickstuff planks with anything other than longitudinal support.  As I once again read over the available material it finally clicked:  The thickstuff planks correspond with the futtock joins of the frames.  This had escaped me primarily because half of these joins were never visible being on the other side of the frame.  It makes perfect sense and brings additional order.
 

 
Now I understand the ramifications of how I defined the frame joins at the beginning.  At first glance I would say my frames have their opposing joins too close.  However, I will invoke my American made cargo ship edict which lets me bypass all normal building standards.  I have learned something I did not know before.
 
The hull is at its widest near the forward part of this cross section and slightly reduced near the aft.  I decided not to reflect this change in the thickstuff planks themselves, keeping them straight and rectangular.  
 
The lines penciled on the internal hull represent the berth and gun deck locations.  Next up is the limber and garboard strakes.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
mark

Another update in the evolution of the Druid-X, this time focusing on the garboard and limber strakes.  
 
For the limber strakes I am still using the thickstuff stock (1/8").  These require a slot to allow the limber boards to fit in between this and the keelson.  Using the Byrnes saw I quickly had my raw stock.
 

 
Using a spacer piece of wood to insure consistent separation from the keelson I glued in both limber strakes.
 

 
Everything ended up looking fit and proper.  A good result.
 
As a companion it was time to put on the first regular planks on the hull (1/16").  The natural choice was the garboard strake - and in fact I did one better, the garboard strake plus one each side.  These were again cut rectangular with no specific shaping.  The rest of the planking will be custom fit and cut.
 

 
The ends of the planks aren't perfectly flush with the aft and fore frames.  I am resisting the urge to sand them into all the outside and inside planks are attached to avoid screwing up the face of the frames - as much.
 
Next up is the middle stuff (my term - hah hah).  Some 3/32" stuff that abuts a lot of the thickstuff prior to the regular planking.  I also want to get the berth deck clamp in.  It wont be too long before the lower hold is sealed in.
 
Mark

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

Thanks for all the likes.
 
I thought I'd take practice run at the knee of the head, here is my first attempt, some of the joints are not as tight as I would like so another one will be made.
 
Ben

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

Progress of port side hull planking
 
About half of port side hull has been planked up to now. It takes so many time and rework than I expected. I thought there will be a little chance of fairing of clinker type planking, I was careful on work. However, I found there are many unsatisfied area. I learn that "Do not believe the view by eye." and taking picture is much helpful to check the result.
 
Cheers, Lee
 
.

The task for the day was a Keel Rabbet.  The difference for me is that this rabbet is more than for looks.  I actually need a garboard strake to fit into the rabbet and given the cross section you get to view the results on two ends.
 
So....off I went.  I did drill through the keel, the frames and partway through the keelson at each frame.  Four of these holes where then drilled through the false keel.  Adding trunnels through the whole assembly made it very stiff.
 

 

 

 
I am pretty happy with the results.  Now I get to start working on stuff that will for the most part be seen!
 
mark

Thank you for your nice comment.

Here are two pictures of manufacturing the hook for the gunport lids attachment.

 

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...