Mike Y
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Mike Y reacted to Remcohe in HMS Kingfisher 1770 by Remcohe - 1/48 - English 14-Gun Sloop - POF
Interesting discussion, unfortunately my NMM plans don't show the position of the lanterns.
Meanwhile I've made some storage space for the galley, I wasn't pleased with MKI
so I build MKII with thinner hinges and a working drawer. Behind it I'll make an open cupboard.
Remco
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Mike Y got a reaction from fnkershner in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Looks good! Doublecheck that all frames are properly aligned, so there would be no "holes" and "bulges" because some frame is a bit non-aligned. I did that mistake on my pinnace, it's unfixable on later phases. Take a plank and see how it goes, hull must be perfectly symmetric.
Small hint - it would be easier to make a planking if you glue all frames together with a few strips on top:
And then glue some scrap wood in the center of the hull, to just clamp it into a table vice:
It is much easier to plank when hull is firmly fixed, you don't need to hold it, and frames are not wiggling (because they are glued together).
All that strips will go away when you remove the frame centers, so they do not affect any end result.
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Mike Y got a reaction from Aussie048 in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Looks good! Doublecheck that all frames are properly aligned, so there would be no "holes" and "bulges" because some frame is a bit non-aligned. I did that mistake on my pinnace, it's unfixable on later phases. Take a plank and see how it goes, hull must be perfectly symmetric.
Small hint - it would be easier to make a planking if you glue all frames together with a few strips on top:
And then glue some scrap wood in the center of the hull, to just clamp it into a table vice:
It is much easier to plank when hull is firmly fixed, you don't need to hold it, and frames are not wiggling (because they are glued together).
All that strips will go away when you remove the frame centers, so they do not affect any end result.
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Mike Y reacted to mtaylor in Ship of the Line - National Maritime Museum publication
Mike,
If it's just plans showing the internals, etc., the "Anatomy of a Ship" books are very good.
There's also Lavery's "Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815"
There's others with some very deep coverage including plans and building instructions such as Antscherl's "The Fully Framed Model: Swan Class Sloops", Ed Tosti's "Naiad" and Yedlinksy's "HMS Euryalus". Seawatch Books has these and others.
For French Ships, there's ANCRE and all their related books.
Basically, you spend large piles of money on books....
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Mike Y got a reaction from mtaylor in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
Not sure if there is any, it's quite straightforward: take a plank, put it on a future frames like you are doing the planking, and make sure that all bulkheads have a full contact with the plank, not only in a small point.
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Mike Y reacted to dvm27 in Ship of the Line - National Maritime Museum publication
For those you who enjoyed the National Maritime Museum's first publication The Sailing Frigate check out the next volume in their series The Ship of the Line: History in Ship Models. Looks like another winner. Pre-order from Amazon.com if you like:
http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Line-History-Models/dp/1848322143/ref=sr_1_14?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398638747&sr=1-14&keywords=ship+model
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Slowly finishing interior details. Mounted splash protectors, rings, some decorative things near a few twarts, small ladder for a captain.
Some things are done not according to the manual (different position on splash protectors, etc). So far I like the modified parts compared to pictures in manual
Rudder tiller was nice, but too small for that scale. Made another one, bigger. Maybe it is not in scale, but now it will not break if a fly poops on it
Connection between carved part and turned part is enforced with a small brass rod. It is a pity that connection is visible, will try better next time:
And that is a moulded boxwood strip instead of friesers (that look like an overdecoration imho). I understand that are a part of contemporary model, plus the whole point of captain pinnace is to flash, so it was overdecorated. But I like a more laconic design, so replaced most flashy parts with less flashy, but elegant:
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Mike Y got a reaction from fatih79 in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Slowly finishing interior details. Mounted splash protectors, rings, some decorative things near a few twarts, small ladder for a captain.
Some things are done not according to the manual (different position on splash protectors, etc). So far I like the modified parts compared to pictures in manual
Rudder tiller was nice, but too small for that scale. Made another one, bigger. Maybe it is not in scale, but now it will not break if a fly poops on it
Connection between carved part and turned part is enforced with a small brass rod. It is a pity that connection is visible, will try better next time:
And that is a moulded boxwood strip instead of friesers (that look like an overdecoration imho). I understand that are a part of contemporary model, plus the whole point of captain pinnace is to flash, so it was overdecorated. But I like a more laconic design, so replaced most flashy parts with less flashy, but elegant:
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Mike Y got a reaction from DBorgens in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Slowly finishing interior details. Mounted splash protectors, rings, some decorative things near a few twarts, small ladder for a captain.
Some things are done not according to the manual (different position on splash protectors, etc). So far I like the modified parts compared to pictures in manual
Rudder tiller was nice, but too small for that scale. Made another one, bigger. Maybe it is not in scale, but now it will not break if a fly poops on it
Connection between carved part and turned part is enforced with a small brass rod. It is a pity that connection is visible, will try better next time:
And that is a moulded boxwood strip instead of friesers (that look like an overdecoration imho). I understand that are a part of contemporary model, plus the whole point of captain pinnace is to flash, so it was overdecorated. But I like a more laconic design, so replaced most flashy parts with less flashy, but elegant:
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Mike Y got a reaction from MEDDO in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Slowly finishing interior details. Mounted splash protectors, rings, some decorative things near a few twarts, small ladder for a captain.
Some things are done not according to the manual (different position on splash protectors, etc). So far I like the modified parts compared to pictures in manual
Rudder tiller was nice, but too small for that scale. Made another one, bigger. Maybe it is not in scale, but now it will not break if a fly poops on it
Connection between carved part and turned part is enforced with a small brass rod. It is a pity that connection is visible, will try better next time:
And that is a moulded boxwood strip instead of friesers (that look like an overdecoration imho). I understand that are a part of contemporary model, plus the whole point of captain pinnace is to flash, so it was overdecorated. But I like a more laconic design, so replaced most flashy parts with less flashy, but elegant:
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Mike Y reacted to BobF in 18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club
Thank you so much. I hope that what I have posted here will be of some value to you. I noted your questions about edge bending. If you are going to use the kit supplied strips, I really don't think there's any other way to do it, where the plank runs will have a pleasing appearance. Prior to starting the long boat, I always spiled my planks the old fashion way. Chuck has convinced me that there is a place for this technique in our approach to planking a hull. I don't think it can be applied to every situation, but it will work in most cases. It'll also save on wood, and it's not that difficult to do. The key is using lots of clamps, so the plank can't buckle. Also be sure to place a piece of card stock or paper under the clamp, so you don't leave an imprint in the soft bass wood. I will now get off my soapbox. Please don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have any questions, and good luck!
BobF
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Mike Y got a reaction from Mirabell61 in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Thanks Nils! It is inspiring!
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Mike Y reacted to Mirabell61 in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Looks beautiful Mike,
wonderful lines, wonderful authentic build, Looks featherlight and must have a sparkling Performance when rowing the master to the shore...
Nils
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Killed around 10hr on inboard panels, and not sure if they make things nicer or not. Probably, I should have definitely skipped the panels on the rear part of the ship.
Very hard to get a proper precision with such small things. Even if they are nice on micro scale, under magnifier, on a larger scale panels are not perfectly aligned together:
Also finished a rudder tiller. It have two pieces - carved part and turned part glued together. I am very happy with boxwood, so strong wood and so easy to carve!
On that photo, one cell is 5mm (1/6 inches):
Now will try to cover all that small particles with wipe-on poly and install to the model.
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Started interior panels. Feeling like a jewlery master, they are sooooo small! I cant make it without a magnifying glass, any attempt to photo them without it fails.
Boxwood behaves perfectly, no splitting, no cracking, and tweezers do not leave any traces on it!
That is how one panel looks through a magnifying glass:
2.5 hours later, and I just installed bottom parts for all panels on one side of the boat... Looking forward for a weird weekend
I wonder how I was supposed to make them with a basswood from the kit? Tried it, just for fun, it is close to impossible, the wood grains are too big.
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Mike Y got a reaction from Blue Ensign in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Slowly finishing interior details. Mounted splash protectors, rings, some decorative things near a few twarts, small ladder for a captain.
Some things are done not according to the manual (different position on splash protectors, etc). So far I like the modified parts compared to pictures in manual
Rudder tiller was nice, but too small for that scale. Made another one, bigger. Maybe it is not in scale, but now it will not break if a fly poops on it
Connection between carved part and turned part is enforced with a small brass rod. It is a pity that connection is visible, will try better next time:
And that is a moulded boxwood strip instead of friesers (that look like an overdecoration imho). I understand that are a part of contemporary model, plus the whole point of captain pinnace is to flash, so it was overdecorated. But I like a more laconic design, so replaced most flashy parts with less flashy, but elegant:
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Mike Y reacted to jburchfield1@wowway.com in 18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build
K, went shopping today and got my "toy" tools, glue, etc.
Got everything de-charred (don't know if that's a word or not but............) and already broke the transom, gotta be more careful with that sharp x-acto blade. It's ok though, I just went and bought a sheet and re-cut it. Will be starting on the keel bevel tomorrow morning so.......
Just a small note about me. I tend toward perfectionism but I'm not a really sensitive person (people who know me call me Spock). I want to learn to do this the best way possible. If ANYBODY sees ANYTHING that is wrong or could be done a better way, don't even hesitate to tell me. You don't even gotta be polite as far as I'm concerned. Don't just let it slide. I promise I will not be offended.
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Mike Y got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in 21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24
Poly dried overnight, and I got back home early enough to make a few photos with a natural light. Looks so much better!
Good effect of a poly, it is now a bit glossy, but not too much. Just enough!
Plus it mechanically protects paint layer.
But I wonder how to apply it properly, without a cloth that leaves a fibre particles that are stuck in a sticky poly. Or maybe a proper poly is not that sticky?
Sorry for lots of photos. But hey, good build log should have more photos then words, right?
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Mike Y reacted to AON in what is the ideal modelling table?
It took some doing but I've cleaned it all up considerably and yesterday purchased a motorized hydraulic table lift kit from SUSPA out of Grand Rapids Michigan (the local distributor in Toronto had me deal directly with the supplier via e-mail). I also purchased two locking and two non-locking casters from them.
I'll be cleaning up my 3D model over the weekend and will post the results,
Once I start building I will post some photos.
Thanks again for the input and I apologize if I offended anyone with the way I originally felt about the cost of the electric lifts. Although they are not cheap they are clean and functional. It took a while for me to see the light. It can be tough to admit you might be wrong. (see what I did there?)
BTW ... my table will have a pivoting section.
Alan
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Mike Y reacted to MEDDO in Halifax 1768 by MEDDO - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/4" scale
Ok, first major mistake! I was looking forward to placing the half frames on the stern area and I kept coming back to the area just posterior to the last full frame. Something didn't add up. After going back to the plans and going over some photos in the practicum I finally noticed what I had done. Apparently when build up the stern post I had switched the 'deadwood' (term used in the practicum) around. Having switched this "around" I had inadvertently left a gap between the deadwood and the rest of the keel. You can see this in my previous photos as well as here.
So I used some 91% isopropyl alcohol to soak into the glue joints and was able to debond them.
Unfortunately I did break a very small piece of the sternpost off.
It was then a simple matter of letting them dry, sanding and fitting the pieces back together.
Welp, you live and learn. I think it looks pretty good for a redo. It makes more sense as well.
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Mike Y reacted to Modeler12 in Sanding the inside of boat hulls.
You apparently missed my whole point of posting this. I don't always polish manually. That is why this little converted toothbrush came in handy for what I was trying to do. Polishing is not necessary because the inside of these boats will be painted.
I would be interested in the little drums in grit sizes down to about 400, but I don't see those any where.
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Mike Y reacted to NMBROOK in Simulated caulking
My trial with black tissue paper has been a success.Using a similar technique to Steve,the tissue was glued to the plank edges first,trimmed back and then the planks laid in the normal way.The glue fully penetrated the tissue so there was no issue of it 'tearing out' when sanding.The glue penetration was an important issue for me as this will be used on the hull planking and keel scarph joints as well as the deck.Having used a pencil for many,many years,I do feel that this gives a superior look that is jet black without the greyish tinge you get from graphite.The picture doesn't really do it much justice and the planks were rough cut for the test(I didn't even put a fine blade in the table saw)
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Mike Y reacted to dgbot in Best place to buy scale wood?
Well spoken on both sides. There was misunderstanding and confusion all around. Lets call it a day and everyone go to the bar and have a drink.
David B
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Mike Y reacted to frank.maselli@gmail.com in San Francisco II by Frank - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:90
Finally where I left off after much spiling. I replaced the original mahogany with basswood and limewood. I originally was going to double plank it. After all the work that went into it it seems like a shame to cover it up so I might first try staining to match the mahogany.
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Mike Y got a reaction from malmoerik in HMY Britannia 1893 by malmoerik - Mamoli - Scale 1: 64
Sand them away with a rotary tool, trim edges with a knife, remove remainings of the glue with water or alcohol, depends on type of a glue? Should work nicely!
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