Mike Y

I'm not an expert in planking, and all that methods are created and described by other builders.
Highly recommend to read Longboat build logs from Bob F and Stuntflyer, and of course Chuck's manual.
Plus there are lots of good tutorials in downloads section on this website.
 
But maybe my photos and description would be useful for somebody, so why not posting them.
 
Decide how many plank streaks are you going to have. Manual suggests 12, Bob was using 13, some people use 11. Pretty much depends on width of your planks and desired "curvature" of a hull. Wrong number of streaks is not a big deal, but if  streak width is too small, then you will need to make plank thinner to fit into reference lines.
 
Make a card template for reference lines. Length of a template is equal to length of biggest bulkhead, and it's broken down into 12 parts using template available in downloads section of this website:

 
Mark top plank line. "Default" line is suggested on a plans, and you can adjust it to get a more/less banana-shaped hull.
Then, starting from that line, add marks on bulkheads:

 
Now you can easily see the lines of future planks. Not sure I got it right in the bow, I remember that on Pinnace I tapered planks a lot of fit them on a bow. Maybe this time I will avoid it, or my reference lines on a bow are wrong

 
I will start planking from bottom to the top, to have even plank thickness and avoid "meeting" in between. Reference lines will help to make sure that both sides of the hull will be planked symmetrically.
Plank edge is shaped to fit with next plank or keel on a proper angle. I think it's very important, otherwise it's really hard to have no gaps. It's a very obvious thing that is not mentioned anywhere, strange.
Edge not shaped:

Shaped edge:

 
Then I sand inside surface of the plank. It would be very hard to do it later. I use 1200 -> 2000 grits for boxwood, it adds a really nice shine. It makes gluing a bit harder, though. Using sanding block to avoid smoothing plank edges. 

 
Then I soak plank in a hot water for 10-20 seconds, shape it gently with hands, and clamp onto the hull. I use a very simple clamps recommended on this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/611-easy-planking-clamps
For basswood, make sure you put some wood or card between them and planks. For hard wood, that could be not necessary.
Notice the bend of gardboard plank closer to stern. Better select a plank with fibers oriented on same angle, then this bend would be easier and plank will not break:

 
I will shape the front part of gardboard plank when it's dry and fit to shape.

 
So now let's leave it for a few hours and have a rest! This method of planking is slow, basically one plank streak on a day. If planks is glued too early - it will shrink and leave a tiny gap.
 
 

Interesting stuff,unfortunately i can't comment on British vs American designs having not researched American construction techniques.I can say though that through everything i have read,the consensus is that French naval architecture,at least in the 17th and 18th century was vastly superior to the British.The French constructed light,agile,highly maneuverable ships,whereas the British lost out through over engineering of everything.It was the difference in training of the crew that made up for the shortcomings of British designs.To my knowledge,Britain had been importing some of their timber as far back as the 17th century.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I'm not an expert in planking, and all that methods are created and described by other builders.
Highly recommend to read Longboat build logs from Bob F and Stuntflyer, and of course Chuck's manual.
Plus there are lots of good tutorials in downloads section on this website.
 
But maybe my photos and description would be useful for somebody, so why not posting them.
 
Decide how many plank streaks are you going to have. Manual suggests 12, Bob was using 13, some people use 11. Pretty much depends on width of your planks and desired "curvature" of a hull. Wrong number of streaks is not a big deal, but if  streak width is too small, then you will need to make plank thinner to fit into reference lines.
 
Make a card template for reference lines. Length of a template is equal to length of biggest bulkhead, and it's broken down into 12 parts using template available in downloads section of this website:

 
Mark top plank line. "Default" line is suggested on a plans, and you can adjust it to get a more/less banana-shaped hull.
Then, starting from that line, add marks on bulkheads:

 
Now you can easily see the lines of future planks. Not sure I got it right in the bow, I remember that on Pinnace I tapered planks a lot of fit them on a bow. Maybe this time I will avoid it, or my reference lines on a bow are wrong

 
I will start planking from bottom to the top, to have even plank thickness and avoid "meeting" in between. Reference lines will help to make sure that both sides of the hull will be planked symmetrically.
Plank edge is shaped to fit with next plank or keel on a proper angle. I think it's very important, otherwise it's really hard to have no gaps. It's a very obvious thing that is not mentioned anywhere, strange.
Edge not shaped:

Shaped edge:

 
Then I sand inside surface of the plank. It would be very hard to do it later. I use 1200 -> 2000 grits for boxwood, it adds a really nice shine. It makes gluing a bit harder, though. Using sanding block to avoid smoothing plank edges. 

 
Then I soak plank in a hot water for 10-20 seconds, shape it gently with hands, and clamp onto the hull. I use a very simple clamps recommended on this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/611-easy-planking-clamps
For basswood, make sure you put some wood or card between them and planks. For hard wood, that could be not necessary.
Notice the bend of gardboard plank closer to stern. Better select a plank with fibers oriented on same angle, then this bend would be easier and plank will not break:

 
I will shape the front part of gardboard plank when it's dry and fit to shape.

 
So now let's leave it for a few hours and have a rest! This method of planking is slow, basically one plank streak on a day. If planks is glued too early - it will shrink and leave a tiny gap.
 
 

I'm not an expert in planking, and all that methods are created and described by other builders.
Highly recommend to read Longboat build logs from Bob F and Stuntflyer, and of course Chuck's manual.
Plus there are lots of good tutorials in downloads section on this website.
 
But maybe my photos and description would be useful for somebody, so why not posting them.
 
Decide how many plank streaks are you going to have. Manual suggests 12, Bob was using 13, some people use 11. Pretty much depends on width of your planks and desired "curvature" of a hull. Wrong number of streaks is not a big deal, but if  streak width is too small, then you will need to make plank thinner to fit into reference lines.
 
Make a card template for reference lines. Length of a template is equal to length of biggest bulkhead, and it's broken down into 12 parts using template available in downloads section of this website:

 
Mark top plank line. "Default" line is suggested on a plans, and you can adjust it to get a more/less banana-shaped hull.
Then, starting from that line, add marks on bulkheads:

 
Now you can easily see the lines of future planks. Not sure I got it right in the bow, I remember that on Pinnace I tapered planks a lot of fit them on a bow. Maybe this time I will avoid it, or my reference lines on a bow are wrong

 
I will start planking from bottom to the top, to have even plank thickness and avoid "meeting" in between. Reference lines will help to make sure that both sides of the hull will be planked symmetrically.
Plank edge is shaped to fit with next plank or keel on a proper angle. I think it's very important, otherwise it's really hard to have no gaps. It's a very obvious thing that is not mentioned anywhere, strange.
Edge not shaped:

Shaped edge:

 
Then I sand inside surface of the plank. It would be very hard to do it later. I use 1200 -> 2000 grits for boxwood, it adds a really nice shine. It makes gluing a bit harder, though. Using sanding block to avoid smoothing plank edges. 

 
Then I soak plank in a hot water for 10-20 seconds, shape it gently with hands, and clamp onto the hull. I use a very simple clamps recommended on this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/611-easy-planking-clamps
For basswood, make sure you put some wood or card between them and planks. For hard wood, that could be not necessary.
Notice the bend of gardboard plank closer to stern. Better select a plank with fibers oriented on same angle, then this bend would be easier and plank will not break:

 
I will shape the front part of gardboard plank when it's dry and fit to shape.

 
So now let's leave it for a few hours and have a rest! This method of planking is slow, basically one plank streak on a day. If planks is glued too early - it will shrink and leave a tiny gap.
 
 

I'm not an expert in planking, and all that methods are created and described by other builders.
Highly recommend to read Longboat build logs from Bob F and Stuntflyer, and of course Chuck's manual.
Plus there are lots of good tutorials in downloads section on this website.
 
But maybe my photos and description would be useful for somebody, so why not posting them.
 
Decide how many plank streaks are you going to have. Manual suggests 12, Bob was using 13, some people use 11. Pretty much depends on width of your planks and desired "curvature" of a hull. Wrong number of streaks is not a big deal, but if  streak width is too small, then you will need to make plank thinner to fit into reference lines.
 
Make a card template for reference lines. Length of a template is equal to length of biggest bulkhead, and it's broken down into 12 parts using template available in downloads section of this website:

 
Mark top plank line. "Default" line is suggested on a plans, and you can adjust it to get a more/less banana-shaped hull.
Then, starting from that line, add marks on bulkheads:

 
Now you can easily see the lines of future planks. Not sure I got it right in the bow, I remember that on Pinnace I tapered planks a lot of fit them on a bow. Maybe this time I will avoid it, or my reference lines on a bow are wrong

 
I will start planking from bottom to the top, to have even plank thickness and avoid "meeting" in between. Reference lines will help to make sure that both sides of the hull will be planked symmetrically.
Plank edge is shaped to fit with next plank or keel on a proper angle. I think it's very important, otherwise it's really hard to have no gaps. It's a very obvious thing that is not mentioned anywhere, strange.
Edge not shaped:

Shaped edge:

 
Then I sand inside surface of the plank. It would be very hard to do it later. I use 1200 -> 2000 grits for boxwood, it adds a really nice shine. It makes gluing a bit harder, though. Using sanding block to avoid smoothing plank edges. 

 
Then I soak plank in a hot water for 10-20 seconds, shape it gently with hands, and clamp onto the hull. I use a very simple clamps recommended on this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/611-easy-planking-clamps
For basswood, make sure you put some wood or card between them and planks. For hard wood, that could be not necessary.
Notice the bend of gardboard plank closer to stern. Better select a plank with fibers oriented on same angle, then this bend would be easier and plank will not break:

 
I will shape the front part of gardboard plank when it's dry and fit to shape.

 
So now let's leave it for a few hours and have a rest! This method of planking is slow, basically one plank streak on a day. If planks is glued too early - it will shrink and leave a tiny gap.
 
 

I'm not an expert in planking, and all that methods are created and described by other builders.
Highly recommend to read Longboat build logs from Bob F and Stuntflyer, and of course Chuck's manual.
Plus there are lots of good tutorials in downloads section on this website.
 
But maybe my photos and description would be useful for somebody, so why not posting them.
 
Decide how many plank streaks are you going to have. Manual suggests 12, Bob was using 13, some people use 11. Pretty much depends on width of your planks and desired "curvature" of a hull. Wrong number of streaks is not a big deal, but if  streak width is too small, then you will need to make plank thinner to fit into reference lines.
 
Make a card template for reference lines. Length of a template is equal to length of biggest bulkhead, and it's broken down into 12 parts using template available in downloads section of this website:

 
Mark top plank line. "Default" line is suggested on a plans, and you can adjust it to get a more/less banana-shaped hull.
Then, starting from that line, add marks on bulkheads:

 
Now you can easily see the lines of future planks. Not sure I got it right in the bow, I remember that on Pinnace I tapered planks a lot of fit them on a bow. Maybe this time I will avoid it, or my reference lines on a bow are wrong

 
I will start planking from bottom to the top, to have even plank thickness and avoid "meeting" in between. Reference lines will help to make sure that both sides of the hull will be planked symmetrically.
Plank edge is shaped to fit with next plank or keel on a proper angle. I think it's very important, otherwise it's really hard to have no gaps. It's a very obvious thing that is not mentioned anywhere, strange.
Edge not shaped:

Shaped edge:

 
Then I sand inside surface of the plank. It would be very hard to do it later. I use 1200 -> 2000 grits for boxwood, it adds a really nice shine. It makes gluing a bit harder, though. Using sanding block to avoid smoothing plank edges. 

 
Then I soak plank in a hot water for 10-20 seconds, shape it gently with hands, and clamp onto the hull. I use a very simple clamps recommended on this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/611-easy-planking-clamps
For basswood, make sure you put some wood or card between them and planks. For hard wood, that could be not necessary.
Notice the bend of gardboard plank closer to stern. Better select a plank with fibers oriented on same angle, then this bend would be easier and plank will not break:

 
I will shape the front part of gardboard plank when it's dry and fit to shape.

 
So now let's leave it for a few hours and have a rest! This method of planking is slow, basically one plank streak on a day. If planks is glued too early - it will shrink and leave a tiny gap.
 
 

USS North Carolina, 74 gun ship of the line, launched Sep 1820. It's a picture of an oil painting on wood in the collection of the Insurance Co. of North America and was used in their 1950 Ad.

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

Also, Chuch is designing a POB kit for Winchelsea, and he make much more bulkheads then usual, specifically to make the hull lines smoother and planking easier. Here is the build log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/99-hms-winchelsea-by-chuck-1764-english-32-gun-frigate-pob-164/

Also, Chuch is designing a POB kit for Winchelsea, and he make much more bulkheads then usual, specifically to make the hull lines smoother and planking easier. Here is the build log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/99-hms-winchelsea-by-chuck-1764-english-32-gun-frigate-pob-164/

Thank you, Grant and Kurt.  Chuck, I do not make individual cases for my ships.  When we built our house I incorporated display cases into the design of the living room.  This will sit along side my Swan class cutter.  As far as next projects...back to Atalanta.  That will take me at least two years if I don't rig her and sky's the limit if I do.  Just as my Victory which is waiting for me to complete her rigging above the mastheads!

Accidentally found a photo of Oliver Cromwell model (unfinished), planked in same style:
 

 

 
Looks interesting actually!

Accidentally found a photo of Oliver Cromwell model (unfinished), planked in same style:
 

 

 
Looks interesting actually!

Accidentally found a photo of Oliver Cromwell model (unfinished), planked in same style:
 

 

 
Looks interesting actually!

no need to overdo it as we all have to sand when finished anyway

For Pops - frame fairing.
 
First I protected the nice shiny keel from scratches with a masking tape:

 
Then the idea is simple - sand away all corners, but do not sand too much to avoid skewing frame shape - laser cut char is a handy indicator, tiny strip of char remaining means "ok, enough".
Any tools could be used - sandpaper, sanding block, files, whatever is preferred. Just don't rush it, make light passes. It will take an hour or more for each side.
Some frames should be trimmed near the false keel:

 
Left side - not faired, right side - faired. Tested the fairing using a plank, it should lay smooth on each frame, there should be a full contact. It will make glue joint stronger.

 
After all, sanded inside part of all frames with a light grit, and applied a coat of poly:

 
it would be tricky to do it later in that part of the frames, without leaving drops of excess poly between frames and planks. So better do it now.
 
Lets have some fun - it's time for planking!

Per, before removing the frames I cut the "false deck" into pieces using dremel disk cutter. Or I misunderstood the question?
Notice the remainings of false deck on frame centers on that Pinnace photo:

It was faster then expected
Small black levers on my lego jig are quite handy to make a fine adjustments of a frame angle and hold it in that state:
 

 
Now all frames are in place! Perfectly straight, I could not find any problems while remeasuring angles and distances. There is a weird place around frame 0 - A - B, the spacing between frames suddenly changes. Not much you can do, the false keel is cut that way. Strange, but not a big deal. The difference is just around 1mm.
 

Connected frames together with a kind of false deck planking. It adds stability, frames or transom will not wobble.
 

 
Scrap piece of wood on top is used to clamp the hull upside down into the table vice - it would be in that state while planking and treenailing.
 

 
Now let's wait for glue to set - and it is ready for the frame fairing!

Per, before removing the frames I cut the "false deck" into pieces using dremel disk cutter. Or I misunderstood the question?
Notice the remainings of false deck on frame centers on that Pinnace photo:

For Pops - frame fairing.
 
First I protected the nice shiny keel from scratches with a masking tape:

 
Then the idea is simple - sand away all corners, but do not sand too much to avoid skewing frame shape - laser cut char is a handy indicator, tiny strip of char remaining means "ok, enough".
Any tools could be used - sandpaper, sanding block, files, whatever is preferred. Just don't rush it, make light passes. It will take an hour or more for each side.
Some frames should be trimmed near the false keel:

 
Left side - not faired, right side - faired. Tested the fairing using a plank, it should lay smooth on each frame, there should be a full contact. It will make glue joint stronger.

 
After all, sanded inside part of all frames with a light grit, and applied a coat of poly:

 
it would be tricky to do it later in that part of the frames, without leaving drops of excess poly between frames and planks. So better do it now.
 
Lets have some fun - it's time for planking!

For Pops - frame fairing.
 
First I protected the nice shiny keel from scratches with a masking tape:

 
Then the idea is simple - sand away all corners, but do not sand too much to avoid skewing frame shape - laser cut char is a handy indicator, tiny strip of char remaining means "ok, enough".
Any tools could be used - sandpaper, sanding block, files, whatever is preferred. Just don't rush it, make light passes. It will take an hour or more for each side.
Some frames should be trimmed near the false keel:

 
Left side - not faired, right side - faired. Tested the fairing using a plank, it should lay smooth on each frame, there should be a full contact. It will make glue joint stronger.

 
After all, sanded inside part of all frames with a light grit, and applied a coat of poly:

 
it would be tricky to do it later in that part of the frames, without leaving drops of excess poly between frames and planks. So better do it now.
 
Lets have some fun - it's time for planking!

Per, before removing the frames I cut the "false deck" into pieces using dremel disk cutter. Or I misunderstood the question?
Notice the remainings of false deck on frame centers on that Pinnace photo:

It was faster then expected
Small black levers on my lego jig are quite handy to make a fine adjustments of a frame angle and hold it in that state:
 

 
Now all frames are in place! Perfectly straight, I could not find any problems while remeasuring angles and distances. There is a weird place around frame 0 - A - B, the spacing between frames suddenly changes. Not much you can do, the false keel is cut that way. Strange, but not a big deal. The difference is just around 1mm.
 

Connected frames together with a kind of false deck planking. It adds stability, frames or transom will not wobble.
 

 
Scrap piece of wood on top is used to clamp the hull upside down into the table vice - it would be in that state while planking and treenailing.
 

 
Now let's wait for glue to set - and it is ready for the frame fairing!