bhermann

Hello everyone! Just finish the foremast boom and do a little job at foremast gaff. Have a great night. Some photos.
Dimitris.
 

Reading this makes me think that Danny has come up with an excellent list.  The thought that popped into my mind is that all these basics need to be applied in a small space and that order will be important when actually rigging the model.  I am going to add this post to my list of "Favorites"!
 
Bob

LOL - if you do order the tap and die set make sure to get both RH and LH threads - so you can make those working turnbuckles!
 
I am not at a complete standstill - in fact my mind is going 200 mph, even though the build itself is crawling.  I did manage to finish making and cutting out the templates for the sail set.  Don't know if I'll use the fisherman sail, but I have it if needed.  I may add a third reef band to the mainsail - it seems too large not to have the option.
 
The sails laid out:
 

 
and where they are going to:
 

 
A closer look at the destination.  I see the mast hoops are too thick, but I have to remember I have a few extras on the mast in case of breakage.
 

 
Still working out the details of sail construction in my mind.  I am pretty clear on drawing the hem lines, not stitching them.  I am debating on whether to fold the hems over and glue them, or to get an iron-on edge and trim that to the actual sail size.  Anyway, here are a couple of shots of where I am at the moment.
 
Bob

Dimitris -
 
She is looking really fine - lots of nice details and finishes.  I particularly like the painted scroll work around the hawse hole.  Very sharp and clean.  Looking forward to more photos.  Are the booms and gaffs up next?
 
Bob

Hi finally back building, unfortunately managed to put a 2 ½ inch splinter through the top of my palm building some decking and needed surgery etc to get it out and the hand working again.
 
 
During time off managed to undertake some research and visit the Cutty Sark at Greenwich. Interesting to note that the copper plates on the hull up to the waterline are actually flat with the nails hammered flat into the sheeting, however a lot of models are built with indentations to simulate the nails, as is the material supplied by Del Prado. Would be interested in other builder’s comments.
 

 

 
This makes sense as the smoother the hull the less resistance and why design a high speed hull and then spoil it with thousands of nail head marks.
 
 
Revisited the cabins and added the portholes and for a bit more appearance added door knobs using the small planking brads provided, locks ok and adds a bit more detail.

 
 

 
After comparing the Del Prado model with the Campbell plans decided to add the topgallant bulwark to the top of the current bulwark. Guess that this was left out to simplify build. Re drilled my current hole for the bowsprit and removed the Stem and moved it up to meet the new bowsprit position. Will fill gap where it meets the keel with some spare wood and as this will be covered with the copper sheeting
 

 
Finally bit the bullet and rebuilt the front of the deckhouse and filled in the deck gap as well, once again added portholes and door knob, (might adjust this to two half-doors as opposed to the current single but used the bits cut-off)

 
 

Hade another look and the various wooden fittings used to hold the various masts etc. together. As supplied they are big and bulky, but saves damaging when fitting, so used my disc sander to reduce them. Found that the shield around the top of the sander is just about right height above the sander disc to reduce them down to a more acceptable size. Picture shows bowsprit partially complete and the other the topgallant mask before and after

 
 
  
 
Got a bit carried away with the change in appearance so ended up rebuilding the mast tops as well, and added slots near the mast to take the various shrouds etc. as on the original these are taken around the back of the mast. Surprised as the difference to appearance that this actually made.

 
 

 
 
Whilst on the ‘improving appearance kick’ added more detail to the hatch covers, once again using the planking brads provided. Once again adds a bit more interest to the finish. However this was a a bit of a disaster as forgot that the brads were longer than the depth of the hatch covers and spend the next hour or so trying to get the hatchway off the building board into which the 32 brads had gone by about 7mm! Good thing it wasn’t the dining room table. Picture shows before and after.

 
 

 
When building the original helm box it looked somewhat bit and cumbersome and when placed on the stern did not look right. A quick study of the Campbell plans and some scrap bits of wood and version two completed. Have once again used the planking brads so that this can be nailed and glued to the deck on final assembly
 
 

 
Previously thought at revising the chains and belaying points and thought I would use the Campbell and Billing plans to give some guidance. Quick measurements from the various plans to get the correct positioning of the shrouds etc. and had difficulty getting things to work out for the main mast. Double checked all measurements taken and my conversion to the correct scale still the same problem, finally checked the measurement between the main and mizzen masts. For some reason the Del Prado hull is 20mm shorter than it should be from the measurements from the Campbell plans! Not sure why this is as impossible to build the Del Prado hull incorrectly as everything is pre-cut, so must have been part of the kitting process. This appears also to account for the difference in freeing port positions on the Del Prado model.
 
One solution would be to adjust the hull length between the two masts when the hull is being built as adding 10mm before and after one of the hull frames would be possible with the deck and bulwarks being remade as required. Another solution I have is to cut the hull into three and rebuild to the correct length, actual solution I intend to adopt is to ignore and carry on!   
 

the box came out of the closet I can't stands n' more! the deck planking bug is really getting under my skin here......how much of the gun deck is....or is not visible? what is the plank length in the molded detail? an even bigger question occurred to me.....masting. that's down the road a ways.....but I did begin to scratch the surface on it.
 

 
to get a good sense of the mast aspect, I started by cementing the sections together.
 

 
the fore and aft stands were cemented to the hull
 

 
the spar deck was cemented together
 

 
I needed to make sure that the addition of the planking would fit in the tabs of the inner hull.
 

 
after a bit of fidgeting, I managed to dry fit this together
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
all this was to see what actually can be seen of the gun deck. I didn't think of this when I did it.......but this would make a very nice diorama. I'd need to correct the joints of the sections {they're a little off}.......well worth hanging onto these parts for perhaps something in the future. so, I marked of the areas that could be fudged over with wider planking. even through the gun ports, I don't think the difference will be seen. I won't use simulated calking on these areas, I will use a ruler to scribe in the lines later.
 

 
the spar deck will be totally planked with 3 mm planking.

Another small, but tedious, step forward. The next batch of guns have been made up, mounted and rigged. I also added some more deck ringbolts. As with the prior gun batches, these were done with the kit barrels, modified Lumberyard carriage kits and blocks and rigging line from Chuck. I have one last batch of 8 guns left to do, but these will wait for a while.
 
Next up will be work on the pumps and the bitts for the main mast, as well as the remaining framing for the quarterdeck. I'm also working on the sizing of the various rigging lines, so that I can add the lines that need to be belayed before their attachment points become inaccessible because of the deck framing.
 
Bob

Since my last post, I was able to contact and correspond with a former Long Beach Naval Shipyard project manager who was involved with the final fitting of radar and electronics aboard USS NEW JERSEY prior to her Sept. 1968 departure for WesPac. Richard Landgraff and I have been erstwhile correspondents/battleship enthusiasts since the 80’s and have now re-established contact after quite a few years of absence. Richard spent well over 30 years at LBNSYD working on the IOWAs through the years as the needs of the Navy changed and the ships were in service and out. Currently he is involved with the USS IOWA Museum located at the L.A. Ports.

After an exchange of photos and a critique of my (2nd) mast assembly, Richard made a few observations which I have amended this week:

1) The foremast on NEW JERSEY was removed in 1967 at Philadelphia NSYD and replaced with a 36” diameter lower pole. The current available plans of NJ of this time period do not show the mast correctly. They also show the mast with a starboard side vertical ladder and this is also incorrect. The ladder is mounted on the front face of the mast; I now have photo proof of this thanks to Richard. I have removed the mast from the conning tower, modified (enlarged) the two mast support brackets and replaced (modified) the lower mast pole to achieve the required diameter ( 3/16” @ 1:200 scale) or as near to it as I could make it without major damage to the rest of the assembly. Historical Note - the original IOWA class foremasts were designed to be lowered in order for the ships to pass under the Brooklyn Bridge in New York harbor. If you compare these photos with the prior photos posted a week or so ago you will see the differences in the mast structure. I've also added the wire rope stabilizing stays on either side of the mast extending to the rear of the ECM equipment houses.
 
2) The forward tubular bracing I made for the lowest radar platform is not correct and was modified per Richard's directions to more closely resemble the actual bracing. In addition, side tube bracing that was omitted from the after brace was added. These corrections are not all that evident in my photos below.
 
In addition to the technical knowledge I have learned this week, Richard has also provided me with other snippets of battleship history (namely involving NJ) that probably no one else is aware of. This kind of first-hand lore is slowly but surely disappearing as those associated with battleships and their construction/modification take their final shore leave. I am keeping these items of lore in a separate file as they are related to me in order to hopefully preserve these stories.

One item of interest that I will share is that any photos you see of NEW JERSEY in her late 60's configuration with her 40mm gun tubs up forward of Turret 1 are PRE-deployment photos. Those tubs were removed the day I arrived on board in Sept. 1968 and Richard was supervising the yard crew removing those tubs. We left a couple days later for Westpac.

The photos show the new mast structure with only touch-up painting left to be complete. I will begin work on the 08 Level Conning Station and ULQ-6 antenna arrays next week.
 
Hopefully, I'll be able to "retain" Richard as my own "Dreadnaught Consultant" on this project since his 1st hand knowledge of this ship is so extensive.
 
Hank

Thanks Antony, I appreciate the comment.
 
Next up in the build is avoidance   .  I need to either assemble and yards with rigging, blocks, etc. or install the main mast and most likely add the shrouds.
 
Avoidance means I'm scared to put the mast in - I'll glue it to the mast support in the lower hull, but I probably only get one chance to get it right as it's a tight fit through the holes in the decks.  So, I'll probably start on the yards - adding stirrups and blocks.  Much poring over plans is required to understand all the blocks to tie.  The plans are pretty difficult here as well, hence more hesitation.
 
Some days, it feels like all I do is study the plans for 3 hours, then do one little thing.  At some point, I need to dive in and do it.
 
Hopefully you'll see an update this weekend...
 
Andy.

Thanks Dirk.
 
Hi Ben, Yep I'll probably be able to start laying some planks after I get back from the CT conference.
 
The first step in chapter 4 is to plank the lower counter. I used boxwood strips for this.
The method Chuck describes has the planks wet in water for about 15-20 seconds and
then edge bent and clamped. I probably soaked them for about 45 seconds. A hair dyer
was purloined from the admiral and using the hottest setting the planks were dried. Once
they cooled they were removed from the clamps and there was little spring back.
 

 
Here is the counter planked. The outer edges still need to be faired.
 

In this final series of shots, I wanted to show some views of the Launch on the skid beams. I fitted a couple of eye-bolts to the keelson of the boat and attached the lifting gear, to show the boat in the process of being readied for launching.  I haven't yet tied off the tackle falls, in case I change my mind about this, or some of you have better ideas for this aspect.
 

 

 

 

 
This last shot shows quite clearly the Fore course sheet and the Main course tack passing through their respective hull sheave blocks.
 

 
And that's your lot for now.  Hopefully it won't be too long before I start posting progress on the remaining boats.

This series of photos shows some close-ups of the rigging.  I wanted to try to capture some of the "busy-ness" of it all, especially under the tops and around the forecastle.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this, and the next two posts, I'll show some overall progress shots.  I decided that to celebrate the occasion of completing the rigging, it was time to try and take some decent photos.  So I bought some sheets of light blue cardboard from the local art supply shop (having read somewhere here that light blue provides the best background for ship photos), and made up a temporary photo booth.  Of course before I could do that, I had to completely clear off and clean the shipyard table too (an added bonus)!
 
I experimented a bit with camera settings, so the quality varies a bit, but here goes;
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi all,
 
Thanks again for all the kind words and also for all the "likes".  It's been a while since I've updated the log, partly because I haven't been home much, and partly because progress shots of rigging gets pretty monotonous after a while.  Anyway, the big news is, that having had the Easter weekend plus a few extra days of purely "me time", the rigging is at last complete!
 
Doin' the Happy Dance!      
 
But of course it wasn't all plain sailing to get there.  As we know, there have been a few modifications to the kit instructions, plans and parts required along the way.  So this post will show a couple of these, and then I've got a ton of photos of the completed rigging that I'll post in separate posts shortly.  That should keep you know who happy for at least a week!
 
First up, the Spiders.  These are metal straps that hold the block for the aft end of the Main course sheets.  The kit supplied parts were made of a soft and brittle metal that basically crumbled as soon as I tried to insert a block in the looped end.  No real drama here. After some earlier experience in making deadeye straps, the process was basically the same.  Form the shape with some brass wire, silver solder, blacken and there you go.  Here's a pic showing my two home made versions on the left versus what remains of one of the kit ones (the other was in several pieces): 
 

 
Next up, the Clue/Sheet/Tack block arrangement for both Main and Fore courses.  A relatively simple arrangement, though I decided to add shoulders to the Clue blocks.  You can see these in the photo.  The more observant of you will note that the shoulders are at the wrong end of the block! Doh!   No problem, I fixed this before final fitting.
 

 
As I was studying the plans and reading the equivalent section in Longridge, I realised that the kit had taken a major shortcut, that had I realised, I could have fixed easily during the hull construction stage.  Fixing it at three-quarters of the way through the rigging stage proved a little more challenging.  I am referring to the through-hull sheave blocks for the Main course tack and the Fore course sheet.  The kit directions would have you simply drill a hole in the ships side and poke a line through.  Not good enough! says I.  Making up the sheave blocks was fairly simple - I made these up in a gang, using some scrap timber and some brass rod for the sheaves themselves:
 

 
So how do you insert these into a completed hull, with lots of rigging already in place?  Well, you just start hacking away don't you? What could possibly go wrong? 
 
To be honest, I thought long and hard before I started this round of surgery.  Even after I made up the sheave blocks, I almost chickened out.  But then I remembered the stern re-build and how well that turned out.  So on I went.  First step was drilling a series of holes around the outline of where the sheave block would fit:
 

 
Then it was time to hack into it with a small key-hole type saw in the Exacto:
 

 
About now, you're probably thinking "he's nuts!" - yep, so was I........
 
But a little further work with a file, and it's not looking so bad:
 

 
Then it's fit the sheave blocks into their new home:
 

 

 
A touch of filler around the outside, and a lick of paint and it's done! 
 

 

 
The lead for the Main course Sheet through the Quaterdeck bulwark is supposed to be through a lead lined hole, but the kit again just indicates the hole...  This was a simple fix by cutting a piece of brass tube and blackening, then inserting in the hole.  No photos of this in progress, but you might be able to pick it out in the following posts.
 
The next three posts will show in order: some overall shots of progress to date, some close ups of the rigging, and some close ups of the launch in place on the skid beams.
 
I'm well satisfied with my "long" weekend's work.  I still have to make up eleventy gazillion rope coils (and yes, that's the right number - I counted them  ), make up some anchors, fit the quarter davits, and make some more boats.  I've decided that I'll make a Pinnace to join the Launch on the skid beams, and two Sea Cutters to hang from the quarter davits.  I think that boat making will be the next task - it will be nice to be making sawdust again instead of macrame!
 
 

Progress has slowed down again now that the weather has turned nice. Plus I managed to get the flu followed by conjunctivitis. Having a kid is a great way to get sick.
 
Apparently I used the wrong stock when I made the engine access hatch. It ended up being 1/32" too small in both directions. Instead of making it completely from scratch I just glued on some 1/32" stock to bring it to size and then transferred the hatch covers to a new top. After a coat of paint it's unnoticeable.
 
I also added the stowed pump arms to the engine access hatch. Those are the smallest pieces I've had to make so far. The arms themselves are 1/64" in diameter (~0.015") and are about 3/32" apart. I also had to make two sets because the plan callout for the arms was scaled about 30% bigger than it should be. It worked out for the better because I stained the first set the wrong color.
 
To break up the monotony of working on the deck details I've been concentrating on getting all of the rail details done. I have all of the cannon eyelets and rings installed and have finished all four of the cleats where the mooring lines go through. Various cleats go on next followed by some strips in the cannon openings and the ladders.
 

Thank you to everyone who has supported and recommended my products.  As with most things there are two sides to each discussion and our past experiences guide our decisions going forward.
 
My experience with PayPal has not been positive and I've always felt that their security had serious deficiencies.  In the past this was underscored by the fact that within minutes of receiving any correspondence from them, I would receive spam from all over the world.  Yes, I've been a long time member and my information was hacked in one of their documented attacks a number of years ago.
 
About two years ago I experienced an identity theft issue that was traced directly back to their security.  As a future preventative measure I discussed this with a couple of my banks and they explained that a high percentage of their identity theft issues were related to PayPal transactions.
 
So as a business and personal decision I do not plan to offer their services.  My perspective is that it would seem illogical for me to reward a business who harmed me and from a personal basis why would I ever want to jeopardize my financial status over a hobby.
 
I realize that some customers may find this difficult to understand, but I look at HobbyMill as a service to this hobby in much of the same way that the moderators offer their service to this website.  It is a break even business where I perform all of the tasks with the single objective of improving the quality of wood products offered to this hobby.  In other words, if I were to shut it down today, it would not have any financial impact on me and I would have a lot of time to spend on my own modeling.
 
I may have my own illusions about this, but I believe that through MSW and my efforts some of the builders in this community have begun to raise their expectations on the quality of milled wood products and services.  My business has grown a lot over the years and I would welcome other suppliers to the community who are willing to provide similar or better quality products, because that would support the objective with which HobbyMill was founded.  Over the years I have advised a number of customers on how to mill their own wood.  I have also added the section on my website covering operation of the Byrnes saw with the intention of assisting customers to improve their own milling quality.  So again, if there are other parties interested in offering top quality wood, I would be happy to assist them because I feel that it is a win for everyone.
 
This thread has been centered on some of my policies and some customers who would prefer me to change those policies.  I realize that some customers may not agree with them, but hopefully this response will provide some insight into my thinking and at least serve to rationalize that they are not arbitrary.  If it were focused on the quality of my product, then I assure you that I would take a different approach.
 
As a home based business my wife is very tolerant of the dust and noise created from milling wood, not to mention the 2 hours each day working on e-mails.  One other policy that has not been brought up is that you will not find my telephone number listed anywhere.  After giving my number out to a few customers, my wife started to become my secretary because I am always in the shop.  My wife didn't appreciate being my secretary and then the calls started to come in at all hours of the night.  So keeping peace at home and getting sleep is the rationale behind e-mail only communications.
 
Another policy is that I do not sell within the state of Ohio to avoid dealing with collecting and filing state income tax.  I do all of the tax filings for the business so I try to minimize this because most of the time the filings would just be zeros.  At one time I would just give the wood to Ohio customers and request that they make a charitable donation to their favorite charity.  That was pretty goofy and it only lasted a few years.
 
My payment policy has always been that I request payment in advance for first time US customers and thereafter I include an invoice.  International customers I always request payment in advance and this is as much as insuring that I'm getting paid in US dollars as it is a credit issue.  All of this has always been on my website.  I realize that my lead times have started to stretch way out, but I try my best to advise my customers of anticipated delivery.  I've only missed one delivery and I sent, unsolicited, a full refund to that customer.  The customer felt that was "over the top" and declined the refund.
 
So here comes Keith.  He asked some good questions on one of Chuck's designed kits, so I contacted Chuck because he designed the Pinnace supplemental wood package that I offer.  Chuck did a good job, as always, explaining some of the issues and we both advised Keith that it would be impractical to implement the modifications that Keith was thinking about and also that the prototype was built using Chuck's original design method.
 
In the interim and at that time I was trying to plan a new batch of Pinnace packages.  Also I had announced both on my website and to Keith what the anticipated lead time would be on the new batch of packages.   I had an announced shutdown coming up and I have other customers who have paid and I've promised them delivery on their orders as well as other repeat customers.  Keith still hasn't placed an order after more than 2 months of communication for a standard package and he is asking about the lead time for a custom package or a standard one with supplemental wood, but he never gives me the details.
 
I did advise Keith that his lead time is dependent upon when I receive an order, what the details of the order would be, and I pointed out the pending shutdown and that his order was rapidly approaching the bubble as to if it would be milled before or after the shutdown.  I also reminded him about the payment policy for new customers.  Keith's response is a rather long rant indicating that my payment in advance policy with an extended lead time was unreasonable.  From my perspective, I had asked an received advanced payment from other first time customers, so waiving this for Keith did not seem fair to my other customers.  Also this is the only time that I've ever received such a response from a customer.   My conclusion was that I didn't feel that it was fair to other customers to create an exception and even though I had invested a fair amount of time to assist Keith, he was never going to be satisfied with my service.  I guess that I could have deliberately lied about his lead time, but that is just not me and also he never provided final details on the order.  As an aside, outside of the policies listed above I have only declined orders from one other person.
 
In the end, it appears that Keith found a source that he is happy with, so all is well in the end as that was my objective from the start.
 
Life is too short and this customer/supplier relationship was just not meant to be.  I wish Keith continued success and enjoyment with this hobby.
 
I rarely post on such matters because they do not add value, but perhaps some readers will have acquired some insight into HobbyMill, it's policies, and my thoughts.  Hopefully they seem logical and reasonable to most readers.
 
Sorry for being way too winded and thanks again for the support!
 
Jeff Hayes
HobbyMill

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 56 – Wax finishes, deck clamps
 
 
Thanks, Jim and amateur for your comments.
 
Before getting into the next part of the work, I have included some information on wax finishes, since that got some discussion after the last post.  Also, I need to make some decisions on finishes soon.  The first picture shows some wood samples that have been treated with various wax finishes.
 

 
A composite sample was prepared with four strips about ½” wide, glued to a plywood base, sanded and then buffed with steel wool.  The top strip is heartwood cherry, below that is Swiss pear, then Castelo (sometimes sold as boxwood) and at the bottom is genuine European Boxwood.  The primary woods on this model will be Swiss pear (for oak) and Castelo ( for hard pine).
 
The samples were cut apart and all treated with turpentine/wax solutions, 2 coats, and then allowed to dry for 24 hours.  They were treated, from left to right as follows. 1. natural, ordinary beeswax, 2. a blend of white and yellow food grade beeswax.  (This yellow is less yellow than the natural wax – probably less pollen.),  3. white food grade beeswax, 4. petroleum based microcrystalline wax (Renaissance), also in turpentine.  Sample 5 has no finish.
 
Sample 5 is the lightest.  Samples 2,3 and 4 are virtually identical and very slightly darker.  Sample1 is the darkest.  The next picture shows sample 1 next to the unfinished sample 5.
 

 
The contrast here is more evident.  After looking at all of these in different lights it is clear that the natural beeswax is darkest and most yellow.  The less pale yellow shows up as lighter than the blend - which makes no sense.  That, the white beeswax and the microcrystalline are virtually the same shade as the unfinished.  The slightly darker look may be unevaporated turpentine.  Turpentine dries slowly.  We’ll see what happens in a few days.  All the wood samples were chosen from pieces with pronounced grain, relatively speaking.  The test shows the quite heavy grain in the cherry as opposed to the other woods.
 
I will probably do some more work with the pale yellow wax to tone down the natural.  We’ll see.  For me, genuine boxwood probably does not need any yellow wax.  Castello needs some yellow to bring it to life.  Pear has a dusty white hue that also benefits from some darkening and some yellow – all my opinions, of course.  Although I did not test oils, varnish, shellac or polyeurthane, all are much darker and more yellow.  Water based sanding sealer (straight acrylic emulsion) has no color.
 
The next few pictures show finishing work on the mizzen step.  In the first picture very dilute liver of sulfur solution is being applied to the copper bolt heads to turn them black.
 

 
I have been advocating liver of sulfur to blacken copper for some time – including in the Naiad books – partly because it leaves surrounding wood unaffected.  I want to stress here when used like this the solution needs to be dilute (Do tests.).  In the next picture the solution has been left to dry on the wood.
 

 
At this point the solution has self-neutralized to white and dried.  Two of the bolts had some residual epoxy on them and did not turn black, so they had to be sanded again and retreated after this picture was taken.  Note that there is no trace of stain from the LOS.  If too strong a solution is used, the wood may show gray-green blotches.  If this happens, that can be removed with white vinegar.  I have only had this happen once – but vinegar seems to be the antidote.  The next picture shows the step being treated with wax solution.
 

 
This picture was taken a few minutes after the area was wetted with wax/turp solution.  In the picture it is being dry-brushed to remove and spread excess.
 
The last few pictures show work on the lower deck clamps.  The top surfaces of these need to be “dubbed off” horizontal.  As installed, the clamps are angled to varying degree over their length.  The first picture shows the pronounced angle near the bow.
 

 
The wood strip in this picture should lie flat on the clamps and be horizontal.  To achieve this, the clamps were pared over their length with a chisel as shown below, then faired out with a file.
 

 
Because the angle varies the paring needs to be tested while proceeding.  In the next picture a straight steel wire is being used for a check.
 

 
The wire fits more easily between the frames and the iron latticework.
 
After dubbing off the clamps, the next step will be installing the reinforcing breast and deck hooks at the bow and stern.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 55 – More hold work
 
The plan has been to finish all of the work in the lower part of the hold so finish can be applied to this area before moving upward to work on the lower deck.  The first picture shows the main mast step and the water tank base.
 

 
The members to support the off-center beam pillars are being positioned in this picture using a straightedge.  In the next picture they have been glued down.
 

 
This picture also shows the addition of one last 6” wide strake of planking to bring the width of the limber channel down to the required 10”.  In this picture a few limber boards have just been glued over that final channel – hence the wet spot.  The pins on the opposite side are holding the last plank on that side.
 
The next picture shows some more limber boards in place plus a pile to one side.  The ceiling planking and other structures have just received one coat of beeswax-turpentine finish.
 

 
When dry, the shade of this finish will be about halfway between the two shades in this picture.  Surfaces that will receive glue later have not been coated.
 
The next picture shows some work on the Mizzen step.
 

 
The chunk of pear being marked will be cut to the shape of the knee and then slit into two to fashion the forward knees.  The aft knees are roughly fit at this stage.  In the next picture the mizzen step is almost finished.
 

 
Bolts have been installed down through the frames with epoxy.  These will have to be filed off and the assembly finish sanded.  The bolts will then be blackened to represent iron.
 
The last picture shows the current status.
 

 
With the ceiling planking darkened the contrast with the bilge strakes above is clearer.  This shows the convergence of the heavy bilge strakes forward to butt into the bottom of the lower deck clamp.  In this configuration the heavy band acts like a girder to reduce hogging strains.
 
It will soon be time to start work on the lower deck framing.
 
Ed
 
 

Popjack - like you I noticed the internal stropping of the blocks. I decided to try drilling holes for the hooks and eyes that needed to be added to blocks.  I used a #74 drill (or thereabouts) with a pinvise and CAed the hardware into the block.  I have been able to do this with all the sizes of blocks included in the kit.  I am using 24 gauge galvanized steel wire at the moment although some of my early attempts used the brass wire included with the kit.
 
After getting the hooks on the blocks and hanging them on their eye (or bail or whatever) they kept annoying me by falling off with almost no provocation from me so I decided it was time to mouse them.  My first attempts were  pretty clumpy looking but I kept at it until I liked the look.  I used Coats and Clark cotton-poly blend thread and took the strands apart to get a single filament line to use for mousing.  I think my later results look pretty good.  Here is a photo of the foremast top with several blocks moused in view.  (If you don't want me to clutter your log with photos, let me know and I'll pull this one.)
 

 
I think I had the mousing process documented in the MSW1 log, I'll have to add it to the new version if I find I haven't done it already.
 
Bob

Planking cabin sides
 
 
 

 
Visible portions of cabin & bridge parts planked
 
 
 
 

 
Attaching cabin sides
 
 
 

 
Bridge window frame & cabin front planked & attached
 
 
Next will be to construct the cabin roof.

Cutting the rabbet for the stem took some time getting it straight, the right depth and width so there would be no gaps.
 
 
 

 
Rabbet cut, stem bent & keel planked with Mansonia veneer
 
 
 

 
Planking the aft main deck with Sapele veneer
 
 
 

 
Planking the fore main deck
 
 
 

 
Main deck planked
 
 
I built the display stand to hold the hull steady while marking the waterline.
 
 
 

 
Display stand planked with Sapele veneer
 
 
 

 
Brewed some joe & marked the waterline
 
 
Next will be to start construction of the cabin.

Continuation of the deck gun saga 
 
Hey Freek, look what I found in the con storage area - - - the gun operator seat !!!    
 
No, really, I couldn't resist trying to make the seat anyway.  After i cemented the seat to the gun base I noticed it wasn't quite the way i wanted it but I'll correct it tomorrow afternoon after my doctor visit.
I made the foot rests too and that's now cemented on.  We are making progress   
 
I also made a start with the barrel elevation rack. Not a simple job now that the barrel is mounted but I'll have work around it somehow., we'll see.
 
And Amateur Jan - I have made a brand new eye bolt for the front of the gun, much better this time, agree?? 
 
Okay, here are the few pics showing the seat installed to the gun.
 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Well. the saga of the deck gun continues but first my thanks to all who visited and clicked on "like."
 
Oh - I guess I could have finished the deck gun today but I wanted to read some more from the book I bought about the "Battle of the Java Sea" by Jeffrey R Cox.  I learned quite a lot on the details that lead up to this battle and the actual action.  It took Mr. Cox several years of research that took him to Japan, Australia and Indonesia as well as here in the Naval Archives to put the puzzle pieces together.  It's a shame that he left out statements from the surviving crew of Hr. Ms. Java, the cruiser my father lost his life on.  My father was mentioned where they were looking for him.  However, I do have a draft copy of that chapter where he is mentioned and will put a copy of it in the book.
It's a very good read and am glad I have the book.
 
So then, after lunch I again ventured into the garage to continue work on the deck gun.  I installed the hand holds but they are not cemented in yet.  I also need to make and install the foot pedals and the simulated elevation mechanism under the barrel assembly.  After that's done then I think the gun is pretty well complete and can be placed on it's mounting plate on deck.
 
Over all I'm quite happy with it and am confidant that all the file scratches will be hidden with a coat of paint 
 
Here are a few pics I'm putting into my personal archive.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 54 – Treenailing, steps, water tank plinth
 
The first picture shows the treenailing of the ceiling planking on the port side in progress.
 

 
Treenails have been glued in and clipped off on the center to right side of the picture.  To the left, holes have been drilled and are waiting for nails.  The next picture was taken later around the midship area.
 

 
In this picture the nails have been filed off flush and the planking finish sanded and polished up with some steel wool.  The iron blunts at the butts are more pronounced.  The step of the main mast is in position but has not been permanently fixed.  It still needs assembly bolts.  The next picture shows more of the port side ceiling and both forward mast steps.
 

 
I had to catch up on some drafting in order to move forward with the permanent fixing of the steps.  I had not yet detailed some additional hold members.  The next picture shows some of the additional members required in the midship area.
 

 
Some of the pillars in this area are located outside of the openings for the main hatch, the mast partners and the two large square tanks that stored fresh water.  These off-center pillars will be installed on the long base members shown loose in the above photo.  The next picture shows the beginning of construction of the plinth that will support the water tanks.
 

 
These two iron tanks rested on the keelson and are about 6 feet wide, so additional supports were needed on either side.  These are being built up as a solid base of 8” x 8” members.  The first layer of these is shown in the above picture.  The next picture shows this first layer being leveled off on the port side.
 

 
The lower members were shaped to match the hull curvature, but the final structure needs to be flat at the top.  The next picture shows the completed plinth.
 

 
The top of this substantial base has been fitted with 6” x 6” dunnage beams.  The two flat-bottomed iron tanks will rest on these.  The aft tank is 6000 gallons and extends up to just below the main deck, a height of about 20 feet.  The smaller 2000 gallon tank is 12 feet high with its top just under the middle deck.  I don’t know why these were so tall.  I would have thought shorter tanks with a larger footprint in the hold would be better for stability, but the source is reliable.  These were usually round, but Webb installed square tanks in Challenge and that was the basis for this design.  I assumed no change would be made in the short interval between Challenge and YA.
 
The pillar support members seen in this picture have not yet been shaped or installed.  There will be three pairs of pillars on the forward set and two pairs on the set astride the tanks.
 
The last picture shows the final installation of the foremast step.
 

 
After gluing the assembly on to the keelson and the ceiling planking, holes for the bolts in the horizontal arms of the knees were drilled down through the frames.  Copper wire through-bolts were then epoxied into place.  Long bolts through the centerline of the cap were inserted into the keelson in what had been locating-pin holes.  All these bolts were iron and will be blackened before applying finish.
 
Ed

Popjack - like you I noticed the internal stropping of the blocks. I decided to try drilling holes for the hooks and eyes that needed to be added to blocks.  I used a #74 drill (or thereabouts) with a pinvise and CAed the hardware into the block.  I have been able to do this with all the sizes of blocks included in the kit.  I am using 24 gauge galvanized steel wire at the moment although some of my early attempts used the brass wire included with the kit.
 
After getting the hooks on the blocks and hanging them on their eye (or bail or whatever) they kept annoying me by falling off with almost no provocation from me so I decided it was time to mouse them.  My first attempts were  pretty clumpy looking but I kept at it until I liked the look.  I used Coats and Clark cotton-poly blend thread and took the strands apart to get a single filament line to use for mousing.  I think my later results look pretty good.  Here is a photo of the foremast top with several blocks moused in view.  (If you don't want me to clutter your log with photos, let me know and I'll pull this one.)
 

 
I think I had the mousing process documented in the MSW1 log, I'll have to add it to the new version if I find I haven't done it already.
 
Bob