EdT

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 274 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging 3
 
The last rigging lines to be installed on the upper topsail yard were the buntlines, the reef tackle and the downhaulers.  The first picture shows the yard with these lines.
 

 
The next picture shows these lines more clearly.
 

 
As with the lower yard, the reef tackle block is tied off to the jackstay where it awaits the bending of the sail.  Its standing end is seized to a single block suspended from the outer boom iron.  The line then passes through the tied-off block, back through the first block, then through one sheave of the double block at the quarters and is belayed on the fife rail below.  The double block is shared by the downhauler used to help lower the yard when gravity alone won't do the job – for example when the ship is heeled.  The standing end of the downhauler may be seen spliced to a shackle on the lower tops'l yard arm band.  Since it is never reefed, the lower topsail yard has no reef tackle.  The buntlines are stopped at blocks lashed to the jackstay as with the other yards.  They then pass through double blocks hooked eyebolts under the crosstrees as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The tied-off topgallant sheet chains shown in this picture is a temporary measure until the topgallant yard is installed.  The next picture shows the rigging on the starboard side.  The large extra blocks dangling from the boom irons on this yard are the halyard blocks for the topmast studding sail yards that will not be installed.
 

 
The next picture shows about one-third of the top's fairlead holes filled at this stage.  All but two will be used.
 

 
In the last picture the halyard gin block may be seen hauled up close to the mast sheave with the yard in its lowered position.  The standing lifts that support the yard when lowered are shackled at their upper ends to the topgallant mast fid and will be added later after that mast is set.
 

 
The work is now shifting to the main mast.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 274 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging 3
 
The last rigging lines to be installed on the upper topsail yard were the buntlines, the reef tackle and the downhaulers.  The first picture shows the yard with these lines.
 

 
The next picture shows these lines more clearly.
 

 
As with the lower yard, the reef tackle block is tied off to the jackstay where it awaits the bending of the sail.  Its standing end is seized to a single block suspended from the outer boom iron.  The line then passes through the tied-off block, back through the first block, then through one sheave of the double block at the quarters and is belayed on the fife rail below.  The double block is shared by the downhauler used to help lower the yard when gravity alone won't do the job – for example when the ship is heeled.  The standing end of the downhauler may be seen spliced to a shackle on the lower tops'l yard arm band.  Since it is never reefed, the lower topsail yard has no reef tackle.  The buntlines are stopped at blocks lashed to the jackstay as with the other yards.  They then pass through double blocks hooked eyebolts under the crosstrees as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The tied-off topgallant sheet chains shown in this picture is a temporary measure until the topgallant yard is installed.  The next picture shows the rigging on the starboard side.  The large extra blocks dangling from the boom irons on this yard are the halyard blocks for the topmast studding sail yards that will not be installed.
 

 
The next picture shows about one-third of the top's fairlead holes filled at this stage.  All but two will be used.
 

 
In the last picture the halyard gin block may be seen hauled up close to the mast sheave with the yard in its lowered position.  The standing lifts that support the yard when lowered are shackled at their upper ends to the topgallant mast fid and will be added later after that mast is set.
 

 
The work is now shifting to the main mast.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 275 – Main Yard
 
The main yard was shaped as a two-piece "made spar" by the method used for the fore yard that was described in Parts 247 -248.  After working through the first four foremast yards, the process used here for detailing is now the settled practice I expect to use on the remaining yards. 
 
After shaping and sanding, the yard was pre-finished with a coat of wipe-on polyurethane that was thoroughly wiped off.  Then after complete drying it was buffed with a Scotchbrite® pad.  This helps keep the yard clean by sealing the pores in the wood. 
 
The first picture shows the center sling band and the two truss bands installed.
 

 
All the bands were made from copper strips, about 1/32" smaller than the circumference of the yard. The ends were then butted and silver soldered.  These three and the boom iron bands shown below are .015" thick.  The undersize bands were initially stretched on a tapered mandrel, then pressed to stretch into final position on the yard.  This results in a tight fit that keeps the bands in place.  The bands in the picture were also nailed on the underside with copper wire bolts for additional support, since they have a structural role.  The two truss bands are fitted with brackets for the truss yoke.  The next picture shows the yard with the central array of bands fitted.
 

 
A few of these will be fitted with eyebolts, but most represent heat-shrunk hoops that hold the two spar sections together.  The tapered maple mandrel mentioned above may be seen at the top of this picture.  This is used to shape, file, polish and partially expand the bands after soldering.  This avoids marring and smudging the yard.  In the next picture an outermost reinforcing hoop is shown just inboard of the scarph joint end.
 

 
All of these numerous reinforcing bands and eyebolt bands are .010" thick.  They are positioned to avoid the equally spaced jackstay stanchion holes seen in the picture.  The next picture shows one of the partially fabricated boom irons positioned on the yard.
 

 
This will be removed for further fabrication work.  The next picture shows all the bands out to the boom irons fitted.
 
 
 
 
The picture shows roughed out truss yokes cut out from 1/8" copper plate.  All three lower yard trusses are a standard size.  Making this truss will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed

Some would call playing with wires and stuff fumbling around but somehow a telephone was invented from that fumbling around. Call it what you like, we're calling it testing.

Bob, thank you for posting that great documentary, kept me out of the shop for an hour this am.  Fantastic footage.  Also, it was great to see Moshulu under sail.  She is now tied up as a restaurant in Philadelphia.
 
Mark, I finally settled on satin wipe-on poly for the spars after trying a number of other finishes starting with the wax that I use on the hull framing.  I have not finished the decks yet because there are still things to be glued to it - mainly rope coils.  The issue with the spars is keeping them clean with all the blackened metalwork and the handling that these require.  I first ried shellac that also helped anchor the bands, then tried Tung oil then poly spar varnish, then the wipe-on polyurethane.  I have used wipe-on poly a lot on furniture finishing.  The first coat of poly on the spars is wiped very dry then polished with Scotchbrite.  It seals the wood pores and can be cleaned better than the softer finishes before and/or after blackening if necessary using isopropanol.  But with some care and clean hands that cleaning is unnecessary.  Slow-drying oil and wax seem to attract dirt smudges and dust.  I have also found that the best way to secure the copper bands is to stretch undersized bands into place, drilling and nailing those that support items like trusses or boom irons.  I got to these methods by the time I reached to fore upper topsail yard and am now using it on the lower main yard that will be shown in the next post.  I still favor the wax on the hull work for reasons explained in early posts and in the books.
 
Ed

Thanks, Ed, I knew there would have been some extensive testing involved in this decision. This makes perfect sense.

Thank you all for the questions and comments – and for the likes, of course.  My comments on the comments:
 
Druxey, thanks.  Yes, the amount of work to include all the rigging on one of these is a bit daunting, exceeded only, I have to say,  by the effort to correctly document all of it – becoming a full time job – even for someone who thrives on complexity.
 
BetaQDave, thank you.  The short answer to your question is yes.  I suggest paging back to Parts 269-271 to get some insight into the blackening used.  Briefly, most is blackened after installation with Liver of Sulfur solution. This is one reason I used copper, although I believe this can be done with brass, but not with selenious salt solutions.  Sliding blackened bands over the spars and handling after blackening leaves them more smudged.  The method has also been discussed in a lot of earlier posts and, of course, in depth in the books.
 
Greg, I do not know if railings on the tops were ever used on this class of ships, but there is no sign of them on the two Young America photos.  This settled the issue for me.  Also, I spend a lot of time paging through photos in books when questions like this arise and as yet have not seen these on other ships either.  I guess a few topmen with one hand for themselves would be less at risk than a dozen or so marines loading and firing – don't know.
 
CGN, thanks for the tip on chain.  I have sources for 40 and 42 link chain plus a lot of larger sizes.  I am generally using model chain somewhat larger than the actual sizes, which go down to 92 links/fathom (92/inch at 1:72).  Anything under about 54 links will be modeled differently.  I expect to use real chain from the topsails down – sheets and halyards.
 
Hakan, thanks for the plug on the books.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 274 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging 3
 
The last rigging lines to be installed on the upper topsail yard were the buntlines, the reef tackle and the downhaulers.  The first picture shows the yard with these lines.
 

 
The next picture shows these lines more clearly.
 

 
As with the lower yard, the reef tackle block is tied off to the jackstay where it awaits the bending of the sail.  Its standing end is seized to a single block suspended from the outer boom iron.  The line then passes through the tied-off block, back through the first block, then through one sheave of the double block at the quarters and is belayed on the fife rail below.  The double block is shared by the downhauler used to help lower the yard when gravity alone won't do the job – for example when the ship is heeled.  The standing end of the downhauler may be seen spliced to a shackle on the lower tops'l yard arm band.  Since it is never reefed, the lower topsail yard has no reef tackle.  The buntlines are stopped at blocks lashed to the jackstay as with the other yards.  They then pass through double blocks hooked eyebolts under the crosstrees as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The tied-off topgallant sheet chains shown in this picture is a temporary measure until the topgallant yard is installed.  The next picture shows the rigging on the starboard side.  The large extra blocks dangling from the boom irons on this yard are the halyard blocks for the topmast studding sail yards that will not be installed.
 

 
The next picture shows about one-third of the top's fairlead holes filled at this stage.  All but two will be used.
 

 
In the last picture the halyard gin block may be seen hauled up close to the mast sheave with the yard in its lowered position.  The standing lifts that support the yard when lowered are shackled at their upper ends to the topgallant mast fid and will be added later after that mast is set.
 

 
The work is now shifting to the main mast.
 
Ed

Bob, thank you for posting that great documentary, kept me out of the shop for an hour this am.  Fantastic footage.  Also, it was great to see Moshulu under sail.  She is now tied up as a restaurant in Philadelphia.
 
Mark, I finally settled on satin wipe-on poly for the spars after trying a number of other finishes starting with the wax that I use on the hull framing.  I have not finished the decks yet because there are still things to be glued to it - mainly rope coils.  The issue with the spars is keeping them clean with all the blackened metalwork and the handling that these require.  I first ried shellac that also helped anchor the bands, then tried Tung oil then poly spar varnish, then the wipe-on polyurethane.  I have used wipe-on poly a lot on furniture finishing.  The first coat of poly on the spars is wiped very dry then polished with Scotchbrite.  It seals the wood pores and can be cleaned better than the softer finishes before and/or after blackening if necessary using isopropanol.  But with some care and clean hands that cleaning is unnecessary.  Slow-drying oil and wax seem to attract dirt smudges and dust.  I have also found that the best way to secure the copper bands is to stretch undersized bands into place, drilling and nailing those that support items like trusses or boom irons.  I got to these methods by the time I reached to fore upper topsail yard and am now using it on the lower main yard that will be shown in the next post.  I still favor the wax on the hull work for reasons explained in early posts and in the books.
 
Ed

Below is a picture of my mom and me in front of my Naiad taken several years ago.  Sadly, my mom, Judith Milgram passed away several months ago.  She was a great lady and a great mother!  My mother was a professional artist and an inspiration for my modeling habits.  I owe her a great thanks for instilling in me a love of crafts and modeling (although, I never got her painting gene... that went to my sister…).  I will frame this photo and place it on my workbench.
 
Here are a few bricks she painted for me upon my request many years ago.   They sit on my desk at work.  When I was a child, we lived on the coast of Connecticut in a small beach house where my mother had painted the fireplace bricks with miniature sailing themes. Those were special times and a special place.  She is now buried in that town. I wonder if those scenes are still there in that house.
 
I also have dozens of her paintings hanging in my home and office, many of them with ocean or sailing themes.  I am very lucky to have them in my possession as well as to have had her as my mother. Thank you for allowing me to share this.
 
Gary

Hi All,
 
Its been a solid 7-8 months since I have posted and almost a year and a half since I worked on Naiad.  Funny how these things go. 
 
590 hours into the voyage and I have successfully tackled the Stern Transom.  This was an extremely challenging area of the ship to model.  One of my greatest takeaways was that no matter how precise you are, you should always leave a little meat on the bone when it comes to making parts from patterns.  For some reason I cant help myself, I tend to cut the parts too close to the pattern lines. I have learned to love the scroll saw on a build like this and am amazed at how quickly my skills have developed with it.  That being said, leave atleast a 32nd of an inch or so of extra room on the parts.  Doing so will allow you some margin of error when fitting the puzzle together.
 
In addition to the Transom, I am doing a final detail of the lower hull. This includes inserting copper and iron bolts. I will also add the ribbands and other copper features.  One other lesson that I am trying to learn is - know when to stop sanding!  I have been sanding this hull off and on for two years.  There is only so much material to work with, so resist the temptation to make it to perfect to early.  I'm going to finish it and walk away.
 
Thanks for following along!
 
Gary

Hi Joe, if you have the space for 1:48, I say go for it.  The plans have so much detail in them that you should be able to capture it nicely at that scale.  Looking forward to your build.  Reach out if you have questions.
 
Ed - as for perching the ship on the railing of that deck...  I got distracted and actually left it there for over an hour!  Wont do that one again!  It would have been a 20 foot drop to the woodpile below...
 
Thanks for all the kind words and follows!
 
G

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 274 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging 3
 
The last rigging lines to be installed on the upper topsail yard were the buntlines, the reef tackle and the downhaulers.  The first picture shows the yard with these lines.
 

 
The next picture shows these lines more clearly.
 

 
As with the lower yard, the reef tackle block is tied off to the jackstay where it awaits the bending of the sail.  Its standing end is seized to a single block suspended from the outer boom iron.  The line then passes through the tied-off block, back through the first block, then through one sheave of the double block at the quarters and is belayed on the fife rail below.  The double block is shared by the downhauler used to help lower the yard when gravity alone won't do the job – for example when the ship is heeled.  The standing end of the downhauler may be seen spliced to a shackle on the lower tops'l yard arm band.  Since it is never reefed, the lower topsail yard has no reef tackle.  The buntlines are stopped at blocks lashed to the jackstay as with the other yards.  They then pass through double blocks hooked eyebolts under the crosstrees as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The tied-off topgallant sheet chains shown in this picture is a temporary measure until the topgallant yard is installed.  The next picture shows the rigging on the starboard side.  The large extra blocks dangling from the boom irons on this yard are the halyard blocks for the topmast studding sail yards that will not be installed.
 

 
The next picture shows about one-third of the top's fairlead holes filled at this stage.  All but two will be used.
 

 
In the last picture the halyard gin block may be seen hauled up close to the mast sheave with the yard in its lowered position.  The standing lifts that support the yard when lowered are shackled at their upper ends to the topgallant mast fid and will be added later after that mast is set.
 

 
The work is now shifting to the main mast.
 
Ed

Thank you, Rob.  I have purchased chain from Cast Your Anchor as well as several others like Hobbyline, Model Expo, Cornwall Model Boats (Corel).  I have seen nothing documented on iron protection.  If I had to guess, I would say most probably grease, perhaps some tar or oil based concoction - I don't know.   Our blackened, buffed metal is a modeling thing - like our finely honed joinery and polished woodwork.
 
Ed