Boatsinc2000

Kingfisher is 1:48 and is Castello boxwood. Check out the label on the box. The Fair American was milled in cherry. I produced the wood for both kits. Jeff Hayes

Looking forward to following along!

Expensive, but it really looks great!

Jon, I like the way that you setup your Dremel. I've struggled with the same issues making scrapers, but your setup gave me some ideas. Have same Dremel stand and XY table that I may be able to adapt. After a couple of those discs exploded I stopped trying and bought the AL scrapers but it's really limited.

Rich, Thanks, I'm just getting ready to work on the rail and this really helps! Really like your approach.

Sorry if my comment came across poorly. You got a good deal. I was lamenting that I offered carving blocks for a long time and I don't believe that I ever sold one. Probably will regret getting rid of most of them. In those days not many builders had the tools that they have today nor the interest in carving. As to the question on Castello, the other boxwoods are smaller bush like trees and rarely produce pieces this large. Think 1-2" branches and its very expensive. Castello, which is not a true boxwood, comes in large boards typically 2"+ thick and 4-7" wide x 4-8 feet long. Castello comes from S. America. English boxwood is a little more yellow, but some of Gregory's pieces have excellent yellow color. Some of the color patterns are very typical of Castello, but that's the lesser distinctive feature. Castello makes an excellent modeling wood. I sold more Castello than all other woods combined.

Here are the details from the Swan Masting package based upon David & Greg's plans. Sorry, but the only format that I have for the dimensions is an excel spreadsheet. Hope that works for anyone who has an interest. Enjoy Swan Masting Package Insert.pdf HobbyMill Swan Masting Package Parts List.pdf Swan Class Masting Package List.xls Good Luck!

Here's a copy of the wood requirements for the Swan framing package. The documents are the ones that I used to include with shipments. Enjoy! Swan Class Framing Package Insert - 3 in.pdf Swan Framing Wood Use.pdf

Here is a copy of my Naiad framing package wood list based upon Ed's books. Just like the Euryalus, each frame was broken down into the individual futtocks and placed on a template of the corresponding thickness. I have also included pictures of how the futtocks were laid out from a drawing package. When I was milling I included copies of these pics with the package as a guide so that you can gage how much wood that you will need. They are deliberately not to scale and it gives you a sense of what is involved in planning to mill such a package. Enjoy! Naiad Framing Package Insert.pdf

Will post both Swan framing + masting and Naiad when I have a moment. Swan framing is actually on Admiralty Models website, but its a little hard to find. It is my wood package list and here's a link: http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Swan_Framing_Materials_List.pdf

You're going to hate this. At one time I had so many pieces similar to those as I was basically giving them away if someone would pay the postage! I'm still using one in the bottom of my shop vac to hold up the bag so that it doesn't tear when it gets loaded. They are Castello.

Hi Wes, I remembered you right away as soon as I saw your user name. Thanks for stopping by. Just hoped over to see both your Conny and Essex builds. Great job on both of them. Looks like you learned a great deal about milling wood. I know what you mean about putting the Conny away for a while. It's a long and arduous build. Not sure if after your Essex build that you will have the interest to resume your Conny as they are so different builds. I've got all of Bob's kits along with a Naiad package waiting for me and my plan is to work through the Conny before I start the others. Hope I make it. Been working on the bow rails and trailboards for the past few weeks and hope to post an update soon. Seems as though each portion brings on a host of new challenges. I'm almost looking forward to coppering...but I know better. Cheers,

Hi Dave, Great to hear of your interest. I've retired from the wood milling business and it takes a lot of time to break down each frame and lay them out on the corresponding sheets, so that's why I posted the content here in case anyone would like to start the build. Suggest that you contact Modeler's Sawmill or one of the other wood milling services with this content list and see if they can mill it for you. Best of Luck!

Shame on me! For a long time I was Gilmer's largest customer for this wood when I was operating HobbyMill. While I spent a lot of time milling it, I never really used it other than to make sheet and strip stock. Now that I'm doing some modeling, I just switched away from basswood to using some of my boxwood stock for the cheek and other rails on my Conny build. Can't believe how easy it is to work with...harder than basswood yet pretty easy to cut with any knife or chisel, homogeneous so none of the graininess or fuzzies of basswood and really great edges. Takes paint exceptionally well too. Been thinking the past few weeks while I've been working on the bow structure why all of the experienced builders flock to this wood and how stupid I've been to stay with basswood. Thought that it would be harder to work with than basswood, but the opposite is true! So, if you've never tried it, suggest that you pick up some from Gilmer or one of our wood milling sponsors and try a few sheets. If you are purchasing in bulk from Gilmer, suggest that you keep track of the moisture content. It varies all over the map. My first experience was that I cut down some longer pieces into 24" lengths and they all checked due to the higher moisture. After that I always checked the moisture content of each board and coated the ends with shellac whenever I started to cut the stock into 24" lengths. Typically I always had a year's supply stickered in a controlled environment waiting for the moisture content to come down. Also sometimes Gilmer would be out of stock for several months at a time until the next container arrived. If you are buying some of their precut turning stock then the moisture should be OK.

At one time I produced this framing package based upon Allan and Wayne's book. Since I've retired from the milling business I thought that it might be helpful to post the contents of that wood package for anyone who might be interested in the build or milling this package. The package was created by taking each frame apart into individual futtocks and laying them out on the corresponding frame thickness sheet. Hopefully I left enough room between futtocks for the average scroll saw user; however, I did allow for extra material. The attached pdf file was the package insert from the framing package. Happy milling! Wasn't sure where to post this, so please move if better located under another topic. If there is an interest in any of my other wood packages, just let me know and I'll be more than happy to post their contents as well. Jeff Hayes HobbyMill HMS Euryalus 1803 HobbyMill Framing Package.pdf

Thanks for the input. I'm going to post the contents of the framing package under the Wood section when I have a chance in case someone could use it.

Clay, Great job! Really glad to see that you're continuing. I'm retired from the wood milling business but I was curious as to how the quantities etc. worked out on your wood package? Looking forward to following along. Jeff Hayes

Great job on those rails. I'm at the same place and have made several attempts. Used the same thought process. Trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the trailboards. Thanks for documenting everything.

I had the same problem and adding the cap rail on the side of the transom helped, but that was a hard piece to shape. Bob skipped adding the rail. I like your solution better.

Great job Ben. Holly really looks stunning.

Ryland, Great job. Ditto on all of the superlatives mentioned above.

Thank you for making these products available. I fully understand how much work goes into milling wood and having another source is always an asset to our hobby. I'm flattered to see the name HobbyMill continue and Vahur was kind enough to contact me to check about its use. Wishing him lots of success. Seeing HobbyMill in postings where I'm not the author does seem a little weird, but I'll get past that. Hope it brings him luck! Jeff Hayes

Looking good!

Here's the response from Larson: Hey ~ those are the manufacture part numbers ~ I'll add our numbers to your list ~ if you need anything further ~please let me know. 5303-10 1mm wide 512-0310 5306-10 1 mm wide 512-0610 5301-15 1.5 mm wide 512-0115 5311-05 .5 mm wide 512-1105 5339-15 1.5 mm wide 512-3915 5311-10 1 mm wide -512-1110 BTW the above is what is included in this set: https://twocherriesusa.com/product/micro-carving-tool-set-of-6-octagonal-hornbeam-handle/ Thanks Jim!

Jim, Thanks so much. I'll probably pick them up. I believe that they may have changed their numbering system, so after I receive the current model numbers from Larson, I'll post them here. Thanks again!