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pirozzi
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pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I added the framing for the main deck gratings and staircase.
The grating frame was made with 3x2mm walnut standing up on the 2mm side.
The staircase frame was made with 5x1.5mm walnut laying flat. Both frames were stained with one coat of red oak.
**note: The plans call for an opening of 32mm square for the gratings. Make sure to leave a small lip of planking on the edges running along the ship's length for the gratings to rest on. Also, keep the square openings at 33mm or less because the gratings when assembled are just a pinch over 33mm. They will fall through anything larger than 33mm.
Next up: Placing the main staircase and constructing the bannisters.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from Kevin in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from MarisStella.hr in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I added the framing for the main deck gratings and staircase.
The grating frame was made with 3x2mm walnut standing up on the 2mm side.
The staircase frame was made with 5x1.5mm walnut laying flat. Both frames were stained with one coat of red oak.
**note: The plans call for an opening of 32mm square for the gratings. Make sure to leave a small lip of planking on the edges running along the ship's length for the gratings to rest on. Also, keep the square openings at 33mm or less because the gratings when assembled are just a pinch over 33mm. They will fall through anything larger than 33mm.
Next up: Placing the main staircase and constructing the bannisters.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from edmay in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I added the framing for the main deck gratings and staircase.
The grating frame was made with 3x2mm walnut standing up on the 2mm side.
The staircase frame was made with 5x1.5mm walnut laying flat. Both frames were stained with one coat of red oak.
**note: The plans call for an opening of 32mm square for the gratings. Make sure to leave a small lip of planking on the edges running along the ship's length for the gratings to rest on. Also, keep the square openings at 33mm or less because the gratings when assembled are just a pinch over 33mm. They will fall through anything larger than 33mm.
Next up: Placing the main staircase and constructing the bannisters.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from marktiedens in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I added the framing for the main deck gratings and staircase.
The grating frame was made with 3x2mm walnut standing up on the 2mm side.
The staircase frame was made with 5x1.5mm walnut laying flat. Both frames were stained with one coat of red oak.
**note: The plans call for an opening of 32mm square for the gratings. Make sure to leave a small lip of planking on the edges running along the ship's length for the gratings to rest on. Also, keep the square openings at 33mm or less because the gratings when assembled are just a pinch over 33mm. They will fall through anything larger than 33mm.
Next up: Placing the main staircase and constructing the bannisters.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from realworkingsailor in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
Hi Andy,
I actually cut stock that was 2.0mm thick and the cut was not beveled enough that you see even under a magnifier. The blade is strong but quite thin.
Vince
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pirozzi got a reaction from Kevin in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I just bought this new tool from MicroMark. It is for cutting mitred angles on wood strips. I have a cutting block for this, but this tool is much easier to use and makes clean accurate cuts. I will be posting a few photos soon on the frames and the staircase of the main deck. All of the cuts were made with this tool.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from edmay in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from edmay in Royal William by Denis R - Euromodel - Scale 1:72
Hi Denis,
I was anticipating this new build log. No cheating now! You have to finish the SOS first. Those were the Admiral's orders as I recall. Since we built the SOS together, I am really looking forward to building the RW with you. We really learned a lot from each other by swapping stuff as we went along.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from Ulises Victoria in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
Working on planking the main deck. I am really pleased with the color of the bleached walnut wood. Using Peter's research, it appears that at this scale, the length of a real ship's deck planks should be no more than 102mm. The kit calls for 180mm. I chose to go with 100mm. Rather than plank with one continuous strip and simulate joints with a marker, I chose to do it the actual way with the 3 plank shift. The first line at the center was done with all 100mm strips and the next started with a 75mm strip, the next with 50mm and the next with 25mm, then back to a 100mm and so on. One long edge and both ends of each strip were darkened with a black marking pen to simulate the black caulking that was used in between planks to seal the deck. I also tried to mix up the grains of the planks to give it more a realistic look since real decks were planked with lumber that did not match the flow of the grain.
All this may seem to the extreme, but I said I would try to take this build to a more extreme level of reality than my last.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
The main false deck is glued in place. I did not cut this deck in quarters like the others. The first half was easy to clamp down on the bulkhead, but the second half was different. There was no way to clamp down the section in the middle where the main deck is the topmost deck. I nailed it using tiny brass nails which will stay in place and be planked over.
Next up is to cut out the square opening between the mainmast and the forward edge of the quarter deck for the main deck staircase. The opening needs to be 24.0mm across, but I have not yet calculated how long to make it.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
Before placing the main deck, it calls for slicing off the top section of bulkhead "B" to accomodate the forecastle later on. When to cut this is not clear, but it does help support the main deck bulwark planks. I decided to add the 4 planks that will make up the main deck bulwarks first making sure not to glue the planks to this bulkhead, and then cut it off. The plans call for an 18.0mm height at the lowest point of the bulwarks, but it should be more like 20.0mm to allow placing the decorative siding later on. With 4 planks it came to about 24.0mm. It can be shaved down later on. Also, the planks need to be longer at the bow by at least 15.0mm past bulkhead "F" and flush with the last bulkhead at the stern. I still need to trim that.
Next up is tp place the main deck and plank it.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I have finally finished the first layer of hull planking below the main deck. This took over a month and a half. Considering the size of this hull, that was a whole lot of planking. This is definetely the most difficult of the planking. The planks above the main deck are nice and straight, and the second finish layer has a bottom surface to lay it on. The only thing about the finish layer is that it has to be precise and pretty.
Next up is to install and plank the main deck.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from edmay in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I just bought this new tool from MicroMark. It is for cutting mitred angles on wood strips. I have a cutting block for this, but this tool is much easier to use and makes clean accurate cuts. I will be posting a few photos soon on the frames and the staircase of the main deck. All of the cuts were made with this tool.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from DenPink in Royal William by Denis R - Euromodel - Scale 1:72
Hi Denis,
I was anticipating this new build log. No cheating now! You have to finish the SOS first. Those were the Admiral's orders as I recall. Since we built the SOS together, I am really looking forward to building the RW with you. We really learned a lot from each other by swapping stuff as we went along.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from maddog33 in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
The wood supplied for the deck planking is walnut and it is nice wood but different colors and too dark for realistic deck planking.
I soaked the wood in bleach for 20 minutes and dried it. It came out perfect and will give the deck an authentic look.
In the photos, the wood on top is the walnut as it came with the kit. All 6 pieces were cut from the same strip and you can see the color differences from one part of the wood to the next.
The lower strips in the photos are the bleached wood. The color is good and it bleached out all of the strips to the exact same color. It has a weathered look like a real deck would appear.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from fnkershner in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I just bought this new tool from MicroMark. It is for cutting mitred angles on wood strips. I have a cutting block for this, but this tool is much easier to use and makes clean accurate cuts. I will be posting a few photos soon on the frames and the staircase of the main deck. All of the cuts were made with this tool.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from mtaylor in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from riverboat in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from Bindy in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from realworkingsailor in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from WackoWolf in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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pirozzi got a reaction from jwvolz in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
I finished the main deck planking and applied one coat of a clear satin finish. I also simulated the trenails at all of the joints, but you can't see it in the photos. I need a really good camera with a closeup wide angle lens.
Next up is to prepare and add the frames around the square openings and place the main deck staircase.
Vince P.
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