Sven

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 53 – Mast Steps
 
With the ceiling planking finally installed, I could move on to some other, more interesting, work – the mast steps.  The planking and some of the bilge ceiling still needs to have many fastenings installed before the mast steps are permanently fitted, but for a change of pace I decided to make the steps next – installing fastenings concurrently in small doses. 
 
The first picture shows the parts of the foremast step before final fitting.
 

 
The next picture shows the general configuration of these roughed out, unfinished  parts.
 

 
The typical step consists of a cap – as yet unmortised – two side chocks with their grain direction vertical and four knees.  The next picture shows some of the parts of the main and mizzen steps.  I installed a horizontal chock under the cap of the mizzen step to provide additional height for the knees.
 

 
The caps are supported directly on the keelson and the side chocks.  These chocks rest directly on the frames.  I mentioned earlier that the limber channels by which water runs to the pumps are cut on the underside of the frames on these ships, so the step chocks as shown would not block this flow.
 
In the next picture a clamp has been used to hold the chocks against the keelson. Tthe cap was then glued only to the chocks, so the assembly could be removed.  In this picture the cap glue has set and holes for bolts into the chocks are being drilled.
 

 
The cap will next be bolted to the chocks (copper wire epoxied) to secure the connection.  Pin holes to precisely locate the step are also drilled into the keelson and will later be used for bolts.  Below, the foremast step has been pinned in place for fitting and gluing of the knees to the sides.
 

 
One of the knees is being glued in this picture.  The step is still removable.  It can be installed permanently only after the treenailing and bolting of the ceiling planking is finished.  The next picture shows the knees attached.
 

 
In this picture the step assembly had been removed to the bench for the installation of the bolts holding the knees to the side and the simulated bolts through the chocks and the keelson.  The next picture shows the main mast step with the knees glued but not yet bolted to the sides.
 

 
The last picture shows the positions of the steps within the hull.
 

 
Knees are still needed on the mizzen step.  This picture also provides a good view of the extent and shape of the ceiling planking.  At this stage all of the ceiling bolts on both sides are installed, but the Treenailing of the port side has yet to be done.
 
Ed
 
 

Added a bed and a closet for one of the cabins. The palliasse, a straw filled matras, was made from sculpey. I found a picture on the internet and made one like it.
 

 

 

 

 
The pantry was made using the same technique as the sail room
 

 
Remco

Step 2

The roof is placed
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 

 
 
 
Step 3
 
the bell beam
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
Step 4
 
Finally a few belaying pin´s
 
 
 

 
 
 
Finish
 
 
 

Search picture riddle
 
 
find the 22 differences
 
 
before
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
after
 
 
 

 
 

 
Who can find the differences, may read more
 
 
The conversion was necessary because I was still a bit inexperienced in the processing of bone 20 years ago

Step 1

The belfry is equipped with wheels in the supports
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
to be continue
 
 
 
 

Thank you all again.
 
Here is another small update as I continue with the middle deck framing.
 
Regards,
Alexandru

pop by anytime Jay the tea kettle is always on.
 
One of my own little fantasies Bob.
 
Sherry I love working with both materials, the beauty of boat models is the variety of materials that one gets to work with.
 
Keith thank you for you very nice commentary about my build log. One of the most important things for me is to understand the how and why of what I am making and if my account of what I am making is helpful then the sharing is worth the time it takes. I feel so much more informed from all the amazing builds on this forum that my own knowledge expands every day I log in.
 
John Thanks for your kind words
 
Ah mark its all smoke and mirrors. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Today was a fun day I finally finished the main sheet attachment to the boom.
 
First I did a forging test with some 1/4 inch brass stock I necked down about 3/4 of an inch to about 1/8th leaving a 1/4 inch long full diameter at the end. this was annealed and forged on the railroad anvil four times to flatten out the end.
 

 

 
After seeing that the forging would work for what I needed, a length of 1/4 inch rod was cut to 2 1/2 inch length with the centre necked down to the 1/8th diameter.  both end were then forged to the same shape as the test piece on the railroad track anvil.
 
after bending the curve into the smaller diameter (if I were to make another I would make it about 1/4 inch shorter) the unit was set up in the vice for drilling. A block of maple the same width as the boom was sandwiched between the ends to support the brass flange while the holes were drilled and then counter-bored to create flats in the slightly tapering flattened flange. The centre hole is 1/8th to allow a brass Chicago screw to replace the pin holding the clew out-haul sheave.
 

 
next the hole was reamed to ensure they were aligned.
 

 
after clean up.
 

 
removing the temporary pin.
 

 
fixing the new tackle
 

 
Done
 

 

 
Michael

found a chunk of cherry that looked promising.
 

 

 
After slabbing it up, and tracing out the top curves
 

 
This took a while but I am happy with the way the joint looks
 

 

 
I like the proportions better and think this will work out.
 

 
I did do another test though using Ed's suggestion of adding the glue during the initial forming.
 

 
I think though for this cockpit I will be using the curved grain pieces that came from around the knot in the wood.
 
 
Michael

I don't have a name for it:
 
they say there's a reflection
'tween modeler and selection
of the ship they wish to portray
 
so this ship built by hands
guided by envisioned commands
and leaves us with nothing to say
 
neither wood nor plastic
it looks so fantastic
I find it hard to convey
 
so I write you this prose
I can't hand you a rose
"museum".....is all I can say

John, thanks for checking out the progress.
 
I had a chance to make a second hawser fairing, this time I used copper, definitely a better choice of material, it is much more malleable I only needed 2 annealings.
 
I am tired so just a sequence of pictures using exactly the same process as the 1/8th diameter one, I will make the smaller ones out of 1/8th copper tube.
 

 
The most work forming was done with this tool
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The last picture is showing the difference between the 1/8th brass one and the 1/4 copper one. Also the four different tools for forming and some metal snips and file, the final polish was done with wire wool
 
 
 

 
Michael

Nenad. I live very close to the Cutty Sark and visit most weeks as I have membership and free entry. Let me know if you need any pictures of details!

Nenad. I live very close to the Cutty Sark and visit most weeks as I have membership and free entry. Let me know if you need any pictures of details!

Nenad. I live very close to the Cutty Sark and visit most weeks as I have membership and free entry. Let me know if you need any pictures of details!

Nenad. I live very close to the Cutty Sark and visit most weeks as I have membership and free entry. Let me know if you need any pictures of details!

Wow. Some tough decision there Mark. Lots of respect for your commitment to getting it right!

Hello dear friends,

I am very impressed reading your posts, thank you a lot for your attention to my build and kind words. I am sure, there are a lot of stunning shipbuilders at MSW - much better than me, I also draw inspiration from their work and am grateful that can be here with you. Thank you very much for this oportunity.
 
The idea  - to make clear area in the roof  - is very good and I am thinking about it.
 
I have other pics for you, this time my husband took photos, so here are some of them. Now I am preparing the support structure for the roof in rear cabin.
Please enjoy them:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Scholarly and enchanting. I am in awe!

Doris first I hope your new year gives you good health and the strength and confidence to ignore Jealous minds.
 
Second it is so wonderful to see you continuing to weave your magic. Your work and skill are exemplary and it gives me an enormous amount of pleasure and joy to follow your progress on this remarkable journey that you are taking us on.
 
Your work is exquisite and your photographs of your work are also creative as well as educational.
 
Happy new year Doris.
 
 
Michael 

And other furniture and details:

Hello dear friends,
thank you for your nice comments and kind words, I appreciate them very much, and I'm glad you like my work.
Today I show the continuation of to the preparation of the door hinge.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.

 

 

Thanks, funny how problems create new idea's.
 
I laid just  one strake of the deck planking and wil only add partials to support the bulkheads for the cabins. I'll try to keep as much view to the hold as possible.
 
The caulking is very thin paper blackened with a sharpy.
 

 

 
Added some of the furniture just for fun and to see how things start to look 'dressed up'  it will be pretty crowded once the bulkheads are in
 

 
Remco
 
 

First thank you all for your kind remarks, and all the likes.
 
New Cockpit part 4
 
Regarding the deck oxidation at the moment there is no surface treatment on it it is just a scraped finish, so a final scraping before applying the teak oil should take care of it.
 
I have begun gluing together the boards for the flat areas of the cockpit these have a micro bevel on all four edges this will need a little touching up before the final varnish.
 

 
The corners have been rough sanded to shape now, when all the walls are complete and glued together I will make the cap by laminating a few .020" veneers together around  formers for the corners when it is shaped and finished it will be stronger than a bent piece and will look like a solid piece. similar to this bent piece as part of a wicker seat which was made by bending a group of veneers around a stainless steel strip and gluing them. After they had set up they were removed from the strip then shaped with files and sanded.
 

 
The next picture shows the top edge of the flat section.
 

 
I will need to make a new grating for the floor or rework the edges with some new boards.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Very cool and "off the wall" ;-)

I've been following this build because of its similarity in scale to most of my projects - and to learn from the wonderful work you're doing.
 
I found a source for enameled winding wire as fine as 45 gauge in small amounts. Google "Temco". A two ounce spool of 45 gauge is 7 miles long! according to their website. Bare wire should be .0017, this enameled wire measures .0035 as near as I can tell.
 
I also un-lay fly tying thread. The easiest way I've found is to feed a length of the thread through a wire loop (I use about an inch in diameter) fixed horizontally, then separate the three strands for about an inch so each lays over the loop, about equally spaced. Clamp a small weight (mini clothespins work well) to each of the strands and the bottom end of the thread. These weights will un-lay the thread for you, completely hands off. Just watch to keep the spinning thread and weight from tangling with the spinning strand weights.
 

 
I added this photo of a sample set-up with a short piece of 16/0 size, 2 strand fly tying thread. I usually start with about 3 feet (1 meter) of the thread and hang it over the edge of my table almost to the floor. As soon as I release the large clothespin gravity will take over and un-lay the thread. It goes rather quickly - I tried to get a photo without the large pin but that short thread un-layed before I got to the shutter button.
 
Also, definitely invest in an Opti-Visor. You will wonder how you ever managed without one. I use diopter #3 (1.75X magnification). That magnification gives me a comfortable focal distance of around a foot (30cm). Higher magnification requires closer focal distances and lighting the work becomes a problem.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 27 – Forward Hull Sanding/Bolting
 
 
First, thanks everyone for the recent comments.  I hope all those who celebrate Thanksgiving Day had a good holiday.
 
The view from directly forward in the last post seemed popular so here is another from a slight angle.
 

 
All those unsightly wood spacers between frames are temporary and will be coming out at some point.
 
After this picture was taken the model was inverted for fairing and sanding.  There is not much to say about this, since it turned out to be less work than anticipated.  Below is a picture of part of the bottom after sanding.
 

 
Not much fairing was needed – nothing like the work I had to do on Naiad, where very little pre-beveling of frames was done.  On this model almost all of the beveling was done before the frames were set, so the sanding was mostly for cleanup and finishing.
 
The next picture shows an area slightly forward.
 

 
This picture shows some of the bolts – inserted after sanding – to secure the half frames to the keelson/deadwood.  These are copper wire, epoxied deep into the holes to give strength to the model joints.  These frames are end-grain glued to the keelson/deadwood, so the joints are not strong.  These bolts were iron so they will be blackened before the lower hull is finished.
 
I am considering installing the garboard strakes – at least – later on both sides.  On these ships the garboards had an important structural role.  They were quite thick (7”) and were edge bolted through the keel and face bolted to the frames.   This reinforced the attachment of the frames to the keel and will serve that purpose on the model as well.  You will recall that the frame floors are merely glued and pinned to the top of the keel – not notched to fit over a rising wood as in 18C ships – and some clippers.  This is not a strong joint.
 
While the model was inverted the remaining forward bolts were installed.  The bolts through the stem can be seen in the next picture.  These were long copper bolts.
 

 
Eventually, the forward side of the stem – actually the false stem – will be tapered down to about 4 or 6 inches in `breadth.
 
The last picture shows the iron bolts securing the hawse timbers to the stem/apron.  Like the cant frame bolts, these are black monofilament.  All these bolts were riveted flush.
 

 
The model has now been re-aligned on the shipway so the afterbody framing can begin.
 
 
Ed
 
 
 

Thanks guys for all the likes and complements!
 
Greg, it's no coincidence, coamings and ledges were fit to the finished grating. I rather see a not so perfectly sized coaming than a mutilated grating to get it fit in a perfect coaming.
 
Joe, I think 45 minutes.
 
Mark, I'll pass the compliments to Greg, the barrels are from admiraltymodels.com the engravings, or Royal Cyphers were a 'wedding gift' from Greg. EU etching produced these but I'm not sure if they are still available. The 'only' thing I added was the vent. 
 

 

 
Daniel, thanks for taking the time to count them, and this is just one of many gratings 
 
Remco