egkb

I know cost is relative, but if we take a look at something very pertinent, then we get a better idea:
 
Caldercraft 1:64 HMS Agamemnon. A kit that uses the legacy POB methods, with dummy barrels for the lower gun deck, nothing in the way of laser-cut/engraved parts. Many generic fittings and also the gun port positions are determined with a paper template, with the exception of quarterdeck ports that are cut into the inner bulwarks. Finishing and detail timber is generally walnut with Tanganyika for decks. Aggy also doesn't have a lower gun deck at all. The main gun deck is complete, but stops fore of a ply bulkhead so doesn't extend to stern cabin areas as they don't exist in kit. In all, Agamemnon is an amazing kit, and we've seen some fantastic builds of her. 

What does she currently retail for? £935 direct from Caldercraft. This is a kit that's now 22-23 years old.
 
Vanguard Models 1:64 HMS Indefatigable.
A kit that uses new design techniques with gun ports built into the hull framing.  Stern cabin with internal engraved details (chequered floor, panelling etc), accessible quarter galleries with seats of ease. Stern cabin windows can be posed open or closed.  Complete main gun deck with option to plug the gun carts into position so they don't come adrift accidentally. No generic parts. All guns on kit are designed to be the exact ones, printed in matt black resin, complete with George III emblems. Other 3D print parts include a proper scale belfry, Brodie Stove (in 4 parts), anchors, carronades/wheels, and also some rudder parts. 10 thicknesses of laser cut sheets. Planking will be in pear, and not walnut. There really is a price premium for going with the much better pear. Less brittle, less fibrous, finer grain and more realistic in colour. Deck planks will be either Red Alder or maple, depending on supply situation at time. To assist with painting, main gun barrels will be positioned after hull painting, and carronades are designed to retract into the hull until the externals are painted, then they can be pulled out into position! Detailed bulkhead screens for cabin. Deck beam positions are also to scale and in scale position, and do not relate to the MDF bulkhead positions. As with other VM designs, a rabbet is built into the keel, allowing easier plank positioning.  Multi-layer channels to simulate the edging of the real thing. Engraved ply sub decks to assist with planking. Five mini kits for each of the ship's boats. Laser cut acrylic window panes. Laser cut and engraved acrylic stand with two-colour nameplate. Large and heavy full colour assembly manual detailing every aspect of construction and providing tips. Of course, Aggy is a 64-gun, but is around the same size, more or less to the razée Indefatigable. Indy just loses the razed areas, but it actually longer than Aggy due to the flying jibboom. 
 
Price? Tentatively around £1000. 
A whole 23yrs after Caldercraft's kit was released.

Yikes. I'll need to find a new spot for my 1/64 HMS Ardent from Chris (Caldercraft Agamemnon)...A fully-rigged 64 looks like this in my home's hallway entrance. I'll also need to consult with my Wealth Management Investment advisors.😂

Chris, I built your Agamemnon some fifteen years ago a couple of years after I retired from work and enjoyed every minute of it. Indefatigable looks like being an incredible model and I wish you every success with the forthcoming kit.
 

OK, little update.
 
Designs for Indefatigable are now about 85% complete. The pictures shown are of the pre-prototype, so looks very rough as usual, as many parts have been glued, ripped off and new parts added in place - and is built for part checking only (just like Sphinx). There are still a few mistakes on this prototype model, so does not entirely reflect the final designs.
 
I have also included a drawing I did of the basic outline of what I think Indy would have looked like during most of her career. The only concession I have made is keeping the forecastle timberheads, rather than berthing up this area, with the decision based purely on aesthetics (plus the plans show this anyway.
 
What I did change is the quarter bulwarks. I know she had 7 gun ports per side and three (with spare chase port) at the bow, so the 7th port had to be worked in, and this meant altering the bulwarks to the same height. I have placed the additional 12 pounder long chase guns right at the front, as I could not see Pellew being chased, more the chaser...
 
I have tried to keep the poop profile as low as I can. Pellew didn't even want the poop at all, and would have been happy to have his cabin on the main gun deck and Indy fitted with sloop like quarter badges (would have looked odd..). With this in mind, I have kept the poop profile to a minimum, as I am sure Pellew would not have requested anything that would have increased windage. I will add 'iron stanchions' to this area, and that's it.
 
I have the bow area to design, which will be the last of the main areas, and then I need to do all the photo etched parts. (Oh, and of course, a figurehead and stern decoration - which will be minimal). For the first time, I decided to go with laser cut and engraved columns for in between all lights/windows, and I am very happy with how they turned out. Channels are made by laminating three patterns together, a wider and thicker centre and not so wide and thinner top and bottom.
 
You will be able to build this without the open slots in the decks if you so wish, they are not mandatory. The stand is 4mm acetate and a 2mm duel colour engraved nameplate.
 
ETA - Forgot to mention, I have moved the poop skylight back by 3 beams, as I realised it was too close the edge of the poop, so it is now over the great cabin, and not in the position shown.

The part for the printer showed up and after installing the upgrade, I printed the new gun circles.  Checked them for fit, and painted them.  Not pictured, I drilled mounting holes in them and gave them another coat of paint.
I have to clean the decks of the residue of the old deck circles, before I glue these down and then trim them to the hatches (the guns sit on access hatches in the deck fore-and-aft).
Besides CAing them to the deck, I think I'll drill into the deck a little, countersink the holes I just drilled slightly, and fill each holes with a bit of epoxy.
I'll probably give them a silver-black wash as well, to make them look more like iron.
Fresh off the printer
      check for fit
  With some paint
  Gun and guy for scale
 
Jet black just didn't look right, so I went surfing for photos of gun circles to see what they looked like; shiny, clean, rusty, etc.  On active ships it looked like they kept them bright bare metal and probably greased them periodically.  They looked black in some images but I think that was the shine during a sunny day, as there were sharp shadows in those photos.  So I dug out the Testor's "Steel" paint and went to work, then carefully CAed them to the deck access hatches.  The bow circle run off the hatch in a couple of placed, so they were trimmed to the edge of the hatch and cut-offs glued to their place on the deck, and the paint touched up.
    Bow circles alone, and with the gun.
    Stern circles alone, and with the gun.
 
Now those parts of the deck need some more clean-up and clear coating.

With the bank holiday giving me a three day weekend, I completed the starboard wales and gave them two thin coats of dull black
I still have the port side to fit.
I have thinned the planks down towards the stem. The blackstrake will cover the brush slips luckily😏
 

and a touch of filler at the stern.
What is the best filler for colour matching AYC? Any suggestions will be welcome .
Thanks for looking in and the likes.
Thank you Chuck, for the kind and encouraging comment. 
Cheers

Thanks Kevin!  I have the ship in the diorama, and now I am working on the figures to add to the deck.  I want to do the figures, then finish the rigging and end with the waves, etc.  I had a bunch from Northstar, but they didn't have too many figure positions so I was a bit hesitant to add a large amount of very similar looking figures.  I did end up finding a few other sets from what appear to be new manufacturers which give me a lot more variation, so those came in the mail not too long ago.  
 
It's kind of a pain to paint them all, so I haven't really been eager to get back to the bench to finish them, plus have had a lot of work and family stuff going on.  This week looks good though, so I think your post will give me the push to finish it up  

Thanks for the likes, and I appreciate the comment, George, regarding the pump locations.  I can certainly understand now that, with their present location, the holds would take on quite a bit of water.  As I have already drilled the 1mm holes in the deck for the pump placements, I will leave them here for the casual admirer, and will have to ask the purists for a pass on this one.  Another lesson learned, however!  Review as many of the actual documents, drawings and pictures as I can on these ships, and not just "settle" on the manufacturer's rendering.
 
Gregg

Hi Gregg .. Moving along nicely here .. Take your time (maybe not as long as I did though LOL) and enjoy Ballahoo..
 
All The Very Best From Sunny (For a change) Arklow
 
Eamonn

Gregg,
Neat work with the decking and the margin planks which will provide a good background for all the other bits on the deck later. 
One comment about the pumps. These would go above the deepest part of the hold which is between the larger grating and the rear mast. The Admiralty drawings clearly put them there and I think that Caldercraft moved them away from a cramped piece of deck for convenience. If you place them between the two gratings then there will be a lot of water sloshing around in the hold. The kit takes a lot of short cuts with accuracy and the choice is yours: build something which you are pleased with and which looks good to a typical person who admires your work, or historical accuracy to please a pedant.
 
George

A quick update on some small yet necessary stuff I finished.  Worked on the pump assemblies.  I recall in jim_smits' Ballahoo build log, he called this part "a bit of a faff".  Admittedly, I had never heard that term before, so had to look it up. Looks like it is more of a Brit term for something that is awkward or time-consuming.  Can't argue with that, Jim!  Indeed, these pump assemblies were both.  Think they came out ok, though.  The picture has them shown in place, but I have not secured them as, like the companionway, I would most assuredly hit them with something and damage or break.  So, they are being set aside until towards the completion.  Also, took the time now to drill the holes and place the deck eyelets around the mast holes and along the stern.  Thinking there are more eyelets to place, but I'll come across those as I move forward. 
 
Also, placed the timberheads in their spots.  Really didn't see how they were going to fit well in the holes provided on the capping rails.  But, thanks to both egkb and jim_smits, they assured me that, after a bit of sanding and tapering, the timberheads would come close.  Yep, after all that, and a touch of CA, they feel pretty secure.  And, yes, that is a piece of paper I have taped to the deck temporarily where the companionway will sit.  Sure as heck, I would drop something down the hole.  So, this will help if I get clumsy  
 
        
 
OK, I've put it off long enough.  Time to work on the channels, deadeyes and strops.  A bit unsure how I will do on them, but I will trudge forward... slowly.  Actually, I am waiting on some more brass wire to be delivered the first of this week, which I will use instead of the kit-supplied strops.  Lots of model shipbuilding education in my future!
 
Appreciate the likes, comments, advice and criticisms.  Enjoy your week!  It's almost tomato planting time in Kansas! 
 
Gregg

I'm being able to find time to get back working on Winnie,  so a  small update is due, sanding the hull continues, I keep finding areas that need a better finish. 

I have started to fit the wales, hopefully she will look better and more shipshape when these are finished and painted.
With hindsight I wish I'd ordered some of Vahur's lovely black hornbeam for the wales. 
Thanks for your continued support everyone. 
Also for the likes.
Cheers 
 

A brief update - Finished with the deck planking! I believe the port side (the 2nd side I worked on) came out much better in regard to the margin planking width, the nibbing, etc. than starboard.  Learned a lot in that process!  After completing the planking, I sanded with 240 grit, then 320 grit, to a nice smooth texture.  Place four (4) coats of satin varnish on the planks and they came out looking very nice.  Moving on...!
 
Almost had a severe casualty as I was placing the bulwark capping rail.  First of al, I decided to paint the rail prior to placement, as I figured it would be much less trouble than afterwards with taping, etc.  As I was gluing the starboard-side rail on up towards the bow, my finger slipped and... snap... the rail broke.  Crap!  Long story short (maybe too late for that), it was a fairly "clean" break and I was able to glue back together (sounds like Humpty Dumpty now, huh?).  Looks pretty well sitting on top of the bulwark.  I have some concerns about fitting the timberheads in the small spots provided on the rail, but both Eammon and jim_smits assured me from their past builds that, with some work, they can fit securely.
 
Thought I would work on the companionway next.  Wasn't sure quite how to approach building a secure box with such small pieces.  I thought I would use my mini-miter box as a guide to assist me in making sure the sides were at 90 degrees to the top.  Worked out well, actually.  I also placed a small piece of square walnut at each corner for stability.  It seemed to work out well.  I think the one picture shows what seems to be an excess amount of glue.  When I pushed the piece of walnut into the corner, it squeezed a bit of the excess out.  Since it's all underneath, no harm, but it did dry fine.
 
           
 
I decided to paint the companionway in a similar color scheme as the bulwark inner planking and the top capping rail.  Was even fairly successful in adding handles, knobs and hinges.  Once painted and all of the hardware was attached, I gave it a few coats of satin finish, as well.  Pleased with the way that came out.
 

 
So, here is how the Ballahoo is sitting now...
 

 
I secured the gratings in their proper locations and glued the two (2) mast bases at their points.  Although I set the companionway in its spot for this photo op, I have not yet secured it, as I thought I would be easier to work on some other deck fittings without it in the way.  Same with the carronades, which I worked on a week or so ago, but will wait for placement.
 
On to the next challenge, which will include the channels, deadeyes and strops.  Oh boy...  As always, appreciate all the likes, comments, criticisms and recommendations for improvement.  Happy weekend to all!  It's already going to be May! 
 
Gregg 

Still waiting for the new LCD to get back to printing again... but doing a little 3D modeling in the meantime.
 
As mentioned, I added the rails for the center skid plate on the pivot guns.  Still cleaning up the model, but this is about it.  The bow is on the right, and the stern on the left.
The bow has two firing positions, the center position doesn't need rings as it's a stowed position, not a firing position.

Kester had mentioned somewhere at the time that he was going to write a book. Glad it's surfaced, and thanks for bringing it to our attention!
 
Tony

Good Afternoon Folks .. Well Ballier Is Just About Finished...    I just have a few trimmings to complete (still haven't cleaned her properly nor trimmed off excess rope etc) and the Anchor Cable has to be set into a more pleasing 'swoop'.. That said she is 99.9% Complete .. 😊
 
I have taken a load (for me that is) photos of her for you to get a proper looksie (see how nice I am 😉😆)
 
As usual if you have any questions please fire away..
 
Cheers
 
Eamonn
 
 

Hi Folks.. Well it has been a few weeks since my last update, but I haven't been slacking off !  I have completed my Rope Coils and fitted them..
The general 'feel' of my Ballahoo build is not the 'formal just off the builders blocks' look, where all ropes and trim are near perfect, instead She has a look of being just out of a 'refit' where the running rigging isn't all in place yet and the ropes are being made ready for use.. A slightly informal look if you will ..
 
And on that note Ballier is just about Finished ! 😊😊  I just have to fit the Anchors and order the Glass Case (I rang my local glass company a while back and asked if they can do it.. I asked for something like a smallish Fish Tank and they said they can do it.. cheap too!, as I already have the Base sorted.. you can see it in older photos above)
You may remember from a few posts ago I was having trouble with my Home Made Anchor Cable (it being very stiff & inflexible) but my Wife Karen suggested soaking the cables in Fabric Softener .. well I can report it seems to have worked a treat..  simply hot water in a small container with some of the Softener poured in (enough to 'discolour the water' as Karen phrased it) Pop the rope in and leave for a few mins.. dry overnight and Presto much more flexible rope ..  I have rinsed the rope in water to remove the Softener, as I have no idea what the long term effects would be, but the floral scent from the rope is enough to make me do it ..🤣
 
Today I added an Anchor Cable Stopper on the Port Side and the bare Ring/Eye on the Stbd Side as this Anchor will be stowed on the rail.
(You cab just about make them out in the photos attached)
 
As Always, Thank You All for Liking and Commenting on my Ballahoo..
 
Eamonn
 

And Finished the Buoy ..
 
 

Hi All ..  Bit of good news to relate ..Many of you may remember Kester from on here (MSW).. aka Stockholm Tar .. building a very smart Sherbourne .. but he seemed to vanish before finishing her .. I was browsing Facebook a short time ago and up pops the name Kester on a Historic Shipping Site, He has written a book which seems to be based around our shipping period...  If I find out anything further I'll pop it on here.
 
Bye For Now
 
Eamonn
 
BTW I haven't vanished myself either.. I pop into your builds and keep up to date at least once a week.. The new venture is going better than we could ever have hoped, but it leaves little time for hobbies as yet .. 
E

Well, there's been a bit of a gap due to real life quite rightly intervening, but I've had the opportunity to begin planking one of the boats with 0.5x2mm walnut, and to turn the mizzen mast (it just looked odd with fore and main dry-fitted, but not mizzen!).
 
In theory these ship's boats will now be planked again... I'm sure that will add strength, but I wonder whether it will make them look over-scale? One possibility (since I really struggle making these boats) is that I'll put canvas tops over them, which will remove the need to make the insides look pretty, and allow me to leave the balsa blocks inside. I could even do that having removed a good part of the balsa and seen just how strong it actually is, or indeed, having double-planked it. Lots to ponder!

 


Just a little progress for this update, but hopefully lots more, soon . Thanks as always for the likes.

I was going to paint the new wheel but decided instead to reuse the wooden pedestal from the previous wheel. I sawed off the attached printed pedestals, drilled the drum and reused the brass rod axle.   The skylight and the wheel got painted, and the wheel now spins.  I'm going back to the idea of connecting it to the rudder servo so it'll turn when the rudder moves.
       
 
I modeled the hammcks so they were hollow, saving a lot of resin/money and some weight
     
I modeled the gun circles to be cleaner versions of the hand-cut one I had.  I printed them all in one go, cleaned them, drilled them (to pin them to the deck), painted them, and they look great, but I think I'm going to add to it, more like what's shown in the manual, with rails for the center skid, etc.
       

That's definitely good news regarding your new venture, I'm glad it's working out well for you, even if it doesn't leave you any time for the shipyard. 
We'll still be here when working allows you a respite.

Hi All ..  Bit of good news to relate ..Many of you may remember Kester from on here (MSW).. aka Stockholm Tar .. building a very smart Sherbourne .. but he seemed to vanish before finishing her .. I was browsing Facebook a short time ago and up pops the name Kester on a Historic Shipping Site, He has written a book which seems to be based around our shipping period...  If I find out anything further I'll pop it on here.
 
Bye For Now
 
Eamonn
 
BTW I haven't vanished myself either.. I pop into your builds and keep up to date at least once a week.. The new venture is going better than we could ever have hoped, but it leaves little time for hobbies as yet .. 
E

Graham and Ian thanks for your nice comments.
 
Ian, to be honest I was quite confused how to go about rigging the bowsprit and its traveller. Going true some builds to find some details, in Bill's log I came acrossI the correspondence between you and Bill re the bowsprit rigging.  With my Longridge, Bill's persistence to detail and your excellent hints I think now I have a good idea how to go about it.
I seized all the ropes that go to the traveller before I fit it to the Jib as I think it would be much more difficult to seize them when it is in place.  Hopefully I got it right and I will rig all the attached ropes to their respective place.

 
According to my understanding from what I gathered from Longridge, Bill and Ian here is an image of my traveller withe ropes all marked which hopefully I will rig to their right place.

Robert

Also, forgot to mention yesterday the success I am having in gluing the deck planks to the false deck, with hardly any mess or cleanup.  I am sure this has been discussed in other MSW forums, which is where I probably picked it up.
 
In order to avoid having to constantly clean decent paint brushes with glue, I purchased a bag of small inexpensive "disposable" brushes... only about 6" long, and as I recall less than $1.00/bag of 25.  I place a bit of my Titebond on a piece of wax paper used as a palette, and brush on a nice thin layer of glue for the plank I am securing.  Cleanup is a breeze.
 

 
Progressing well on the port side deck planking.  Appreciate the comments and criticisms. 
 
It's a cool yet sunny Sunday in Kansas City, so heading outside this afternoon for some yard work.   Thanks...
 
Gregg