Wintergreen

Thanks for the comments and likes :-)

Denis, glad you remember the Regina project. She sits nicely in her display case. And re the drum, there was never an issue with the drum going into an orbit. It was held in place by the dubbs (? maybe they are called something else ?). But a coned shaft is of course a better option.
 
Vaddoc, the apple is two colored. Outer wood is much paler. I will take a picture to show you. Also, thanks for the heads up on the glue. Guess now that I've bought that expensive bottle I need to use it... And the boat (or type) does not have a centerboard. I cant think of any traditional Swedish boat that has that. Instead lead or iron ingots as ballast. Approx 500 kg for this 22 footer.
 
Edit:
Picture of the apple wood. 

Hi all,
 
John, I took your word for it so I turned a shaft instead. One side coned like all other lathe tools and the other with a small dent for the support.
Also managed to finish a dust cover with a tube to attach shop vac or similar. My long time plan is to extend the shop dust extraction system with a hose for smaller tools, like this one.
 
I attached 150 grit paper to the drum and the first tests were satisfactory. It will however take some time to learn about at what pace the material should go through.
Also, it seems that a speed of ca 1400 rpm is quite enough.
 

 

 
Well, with that taken care of, it is back to the boatyard to see if there will be some progress...

Hi all,
Re the book; it covers a replica build of the original boat from 1900. Since these boats always were build without plans, the book contains no blueprints. The original boat was measured and from this they made a couple of plans, which are part of the book. Will show you later.
 
Now for todays update. In my earlier post I headed out to my shop in order to create some kind of thickness sander. So far, so good.
I have yet to try it out with sanding paper, but I think it might work. In the future there will probably be room for updates on some of the details of it.
 
The aluminium drum is held in place by squeezing only. Might need another way, but the friction seems good enough.
As you can se the height of the table is adjusted by a knurled knob attached to a M6 threaded rod. One full turn raises the table 1mm at the aft end. The drum is approximately 2/3 up the table. One full turn would then approximately lessen the space drum-table with 2/3 of a mm. (I guess).
The table is hinged at the front end.
 


I also need to build some dust extraction for it. But that will be quite easy, just some cover to stand over the whole unit with an outlet to attach a hose to.
We will see.
 
To be continued...
 

Ahh...sawdust, finally!
 
Yes, John, I use the shop vacuum also. It's just that it is so noisy. Guys, thank you for the likes also.
 
After building the thickness sander, which by the way, works really well. Note to self.: I do need to countersink the machine screws a bit. The ones that hold the wedge. They scarred the wood, not too bad, but still ugly. 
I went down to the hardware store and bought a ridiculously expensive spray glue. Well, it worked like a charm, so maybe, just maybe, it was worth the expense. This glue is intended for gluing the printouts to the wood. As can be seen in the first picture.
 
With them glued, I spent the better part of 30 min rummaging about to find a tool holder for the scroll saw. I knew it was in a bad place... finally found it. Next 15 minutes was spent trying to remember how to set the darn thing up. Google told me in the end.
While letting the scroll saw eat wood I pondered about how to file and sand those tiny little pieces and stopped myself right there. Like you eat an elephant of course. One at a time. See next picture.
 
Ed wrote: "when fatigue sets in... stop!" which what I did next. Before the halt, I had managed to release all parts from the slab of apple. Picture three. 
One might wonder why there are two of everything. Well, to my knowledge, practice makes perfect. So, one set is for practice, and then I can do it right the second time on the other set of parts. Clever, huh?
 
 


 

 
Finally, I find it interesting how many tools you bring forth in time at all... don't you?

Thanks, Gary and druxey, you both helped me get this far! Håkan, although I am only a few months into retirement, I highly recommend it. A friend described retirement as this: "remember a sunny, summer day during your year between 8th and 9th grade (12-14 years old). That is retirement".
 
Mike, good question about highlighting the joints. I have gone back and forth on this over the years, wanting to show off the joinery, but also thinking about the effect of scale. Looking at a model at 3/16"scale is like looking at the real ship from a good distance away, where joints would not show prominently, if at all. For the same reason, I have been using tinted colors so far, to keep it from looking too intense. At a little distance, a real ships colors are more muted due to the atmospheric effect.
 
My boxing joint at the foot of the stem is an example of no highlighting (2nd photo). However, I did put some pencil graphite in the joints of the capstan step (3rd photo). I may do more of this.
 
But for the wales, I think it will not show anyway. Looking at the 2nd model of the Bellona (shown on the cover of Brian Lavery's book below), the wales are pretty black and uniformly smooth, even with the more muted colors on the gunports and the fore bulkhead. I considered Ed Tosti's solution for his Naiad, which was a dark brown color, but I fancy staying closer to the 18th century model I am emulating. I am taking Ed's advice, and putting together a test panel to try the black stain on the joinery, to see how it looks before settling this altogether.
 
So how will I feel if I put all this work into the joinery, and it does not show except very close up? It is a little like all of the great detail that many projects on this website put into lower decks, knowing that they will never be seen again. At least the ship modeler knows the details are there!
 
I am open to thoughts about this.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 
The Lavery book it at: https://www.amazon.com/Ship-Line-History-Models/dp/1591141877/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516232652&sr=8-1&keywords=The+Ship+of+the+Line%3A+A+History+in+Ship+Models

Hi Mark,
 
thanks for the comment. No, the bowsprit is unsupported, so yes, bends under pressure from the rig. But, easy rigging, easy taking down. I guess it sails like most boats with sprit sails, slightly better than a square rigger.. no, really, I don't know, only that with this kind of rig going upwind is not the favorable direction. That is why there will be oars also.

Ahh...sawdust, finally!
 
Yes, John, I use the shop vacuum also. It's just that it is so noisy. Guys, thank you for the likes also.
 
After building the thickness sander, which by the way, works really well. Note to self.: I do need to countersink the machine screws a bit. The ones that hold the wedge. They scarred the wood, not too bad, but still ugly. 
I went down to the hardware store and bought a ridiculously expensive spray glue. Well, it worked like a charm, so maybe, just maybe, it was worth the expense. This glue is intended for gluing the printouts to the wood. As can be seen in the first picture.
 
With them glued, I spent the better part of 30 min rummaging about to find a tool holder for the scroll saw. I knew it was in a bad place... finally found it. Next 15 minutes was spent trying to remember how to set the darn thing up. Google told me in the end.
While letting the scroll saw eat wood I pondered about how to file and sand those tiny little pieces and stopped myself right there. Like you eat an elephant of course. One at a time. See next picture.
 
Ed wrote: "when fatigue sets in... stop!" which what I did next. Before the halt, I had managed to release all parts from the slab of apple. Picture three. 
One might wonder why there are two of everything. Well, to my knowledge, practice makes perfect. So, one set is for practice, and then I can do it right the second time on the other set of parts. Clever, huh?
 
 


 

 
Finally, I find it interesting how many tools you bring forth in time at all... don't you?

Nice build GL.
It looks very much like the British smack.
 
You have a challenge in that you work with pine and oak, but I think you manage very well. The deck looks excellent.

Ahh...sawdust, finally!
 
Yes, John, I use the shop vacuum also. It's just that it is so noisy. Guys, thank you for the likes also.
 
After building the thickness sander, which by the way, works really well. Note to self.: I do need to countersink the machine screws a bit. The ones that hold the wedge. They scarred the wood, not too bad, but still ugly. 
I went down to the hardware store and bought a ridiculously expensive spray glue. Well, it worked like a charm, so maybe, just maybe, it was worth the expense. This glue is intended for gluing the printouts to the wood. As can be seen in the first picture.
 
With them glued, I spent the better part of 30 min rummaging about to find a tool holder for the scroll saw. I knew it was in a bad place... finally found it. Next 15 minutes was spent trying to remember how to set the darn thing up. Google told me in the end.
While letting the scroll saw eat wood I pondered about how to file and sand those tiny little pieces and stopped myself right there. Like you eat an elephant of course. One at a time. See next picture.
 
Ed wrote: "when fatigue sets in... stop!" which what I did next. Before the halt, I had managed to release all parts from the slab of apple. Picture three. 
One might wonder why there are two of everything. Well, to my knowledge, practice makes perfect. So, one set is for practice, and then I can do it right the second time on the other set of parts. Clever, huh?
 
 


 

 
Finally, I find it interesting how many tools you bring forth in time at all... don't you?

Hi Mark,
 
thanks for the comment. No, the bowsprit is unsupported, so yes, bends under pressure from the rig. But, easy rigging, easy taking down. I guess it sails like most boats with sprit sails, slightly better than a square rigger.. no, really, I don't know, only that with this kind of rig going upwind is not the favorable direction. That is why there will be oars also.

Ahh...sawdust, finally!
 
Yes, John, I use the shop vacuum also. It's just that it is so noisy. Guys, thank you for the likes also.
 
After building the thickness sander, which by the way, works really well. Note to self.: I do need to countersink the machine screws a bit. The ones that hold the wedge. They scarred the wood, not too bad, but still ugly. 
I went down to the hardware store and bought a ridiculously expensive spray glue. Well, it worked like a charm, so maybe, just maybe, it was worth the expense. This glue is intended for gluing the printouts to the wood. As can be seen in the first picture.
 
With them glued, I spent the better part of 30 min rummaging about to find a tool holder for the scroll saw. I knew it was in a bad place... finally found it. Next 15 minutes was spent trying to remember how to set the darn thing up. Google told me in the end.
While letting the scroll saw eat wood I pondered about how to file and sand those tiny little pieces and stopped myself right there. Like you eat an elephant of course. One at a time. See next picture.
 
Ed wrote: "when fatigue sets in... stop!" which what I did next. Before the halt, I had managed to release all parts from the slab of apple. Picture three. 
One might wonder why there are two of everything. Well, to my knowledge, practice makes perfect. So, one set is for practice, and then I can do it right the second time on the other set of parts. Clever, huh?
 
 


 

 
Finally, I find it interesting how many tools you bring forth in time at all... don't you?

Hi all,
 
John, I took your word for it so I turned a shaft instead. One side coned like all other lathe tools and the other with a small dent for the support.
Also managed to finish a dust cover with a tube to attach shop vac or similar. My long time plan is to extend the shop dust extraction system with a hose for smaller tools, like this one.
 
I attached 150 grit paper to the drum and the first tests were satisfactory. It will however take some time to learn about at what pace the material should go through.
Also, it seems that a speed of ca 1400 rpm is quite enough.
 

 

 
Well, with that taken care of, it is back to the boatyard to see if there will be some progress...

Hi all,
Re the book; it covers a replica build of the original boat from 1900. Since these boats always were build without plans, the book contains no blueprints. The original boat was measured and from this they made a couple of plans, which are part of the book. Will show you later.
 
Now for todays update. In my earlier post I headed out to my shop in order to create some kind of thickness sander. So far, so good.
I have yet to try it out with sanding paper, but I think it might work. In the future there will probably be room for updates on some of the details of it.
 
The aluminium drum is held in place by squeezing only. Might need another way, but the friction seems good enough.
As you can se the height of the table is adjusted by a knurled knob attached to a M6 threaded rod. One full turn raises the table 1mm at the aft end. The drum is approximately 2/3 up the table. One full turn would then approximately lessen the space drum-table with 2/3 of a mm. (I guess).
The table is hinged at the front end.
 


I also need to build some dust extraction for it. But that will be quite easy, just some cover to stand over the whole unit with an outlet to attach a hose to.
We will see.
 
To be continued...
 

You are right Steven, it was Treebeard that said it the first time. M&P just repeated it a couple more times.
Re the project, yes, I'm in for a challenge here...

Thank you guys for your likes, comments and interest. 
 
This build will take a while. When I started to mill the blanks for the keel it became obvious that I need a way to sand to dimensions. 
The easy and expensive would be to just order a thickness sander. But after some thought I realised that my lathe could be turned into such a device.
 
So, at the moment, still no sawdust.
As Merry and Pippin says in LOTR... lets not be hasty...

It is not with little hesitation that I know start a build log. For me it is somewhat of a Pandora's box of feelings since I've been away from MSW for quite some time now. One thing caught my attention when I read the foreword in Ed's "Naiad" book, it seems that it is quite an accomplishment to build anything to scale between your graduation and retirement. Life tends to interfere all the time. Anyway, here we go...
 
The object for my build log will be a working vessel from the Swedish west coast dated at about 1900. I've learned  "Go small, go simple, go now" when it comes to long distance sailing. Applied to scale model shipbuilding that would translate to something of small real world dimensions and a rather simple type based on some source that you already have. In my case it panned out to be a "Kåg". For those not familiar with Swedish pronunciation of words (most are not, so don't worry) it originates from the Dutch kaeg or cog. 
 
Basically it is a fishing vessel. It was all about herring during 17th to early 20th on the west coast of Sweden. By the way, swedes are still a lot about herring marinated in more or less fantastic ways. You will find them on any decent "smörgåsbord".
 
Included in my source is a couple of plans and the first tasks include some CAD to create plans that can be used to build something. Real world dimensions for this particular vessel is some 22 feet between perpendiculars with a width of 10 feet. Length over all will be some 9,5 meters. Scaled down 1:30 the hull will be 225 mm stem to stern with a moulded width of 96 mm.
 
The clinker boards will be just shy of 1 mm thick, which I think is the smallest I could manage.
Real world materials were oak for basic structure, top strake and details. The lower strakes were of pine. Mast and spars of fir.
Materials for the scale model will be apple for basic structure, mast and spars and probably birch for the boards.
So far the introduction. Over to the build.
At this moment I have not produced any dust yet, only managed to create templates for the hull, keel, stem and stern. Starting up with CAD has a steep learning curve... 
 
The book:

A picture of the vessel sailing (maiden tryouts):

Keel, stem and stern.

I will happily try to answer any questions and will also of course gladly take on any help and suggestions to aid in the building process.

Hi Mark,
 
thanks for the comment. No, the bowsprit is unsupported, so yes, bends under pressure from the rig. But, easy rigging, easy taking down. I guess it sails like most boats with sprit sails, slightly better than a square rigger.. no, really, I don't know, only that with this kind of rig going upwind is not the favorable direction. That is why there will be oars also.

Ahh...sawdust, finally!
 
Yes, John, I use the shop vacuum also. It's just that it is so noisy. Guys, thank you for the likes also.
 
After building the thickness sander, which by the way, works really well. Note to self.: I do need to countersink the machine screws a bit. The ones that hold the wedge. They scarred the wood, not too bad, but still ugly. 
I went down to the hardware store and bought a ridiculously expensive spray glue. Well, it worked like a charm, so maybe, just maybe, it was worth the expense. This glue is intended for gluing the printouts to the wood. As can be seen in the first picture.
 
With them glued, I spent the better part of 30 min rummaging about to find a tool holder for the scroll saw. I knew it was in a bad place... finally found it. Next 15 minutes was spent trying to remember how to set the darn thing up. Google told me in the end.
While letting the scroll saw eat wood I pondered about how to file and sand those tiny little pieces and stopped myself right there. Like you eat an elephant of course. One at a time. See next picture.
 
Ed wrote: "when fatigue sets in... stop!" which what I did next. Before the halt, I had managed to release all parts from the slab of apple. Picture three. 
One might wonder why there are two of everything. Well, to my knowledge, practice makes perfect. So, one set is for practice, and then I can do it right the second time on the other set of parts. Clever, huh?
 
 


 

 
Finally, I find it interesting how many tools you bring forth in time at all... don't you?

It is not with little hesitation that I know start a build log. For me it is somewhat of a Pandora's box of feelings since I've been away from MSW for quite some time now. One thing caught my attention when I read the foreword in Ed's "Naiad" book, it seems that it is quite an accomplishment to build anything to scale between your graduation and retirement. Life tends to interfere all the time. Anyway, here we go...
 
The object for my build log will be a working vessel from the Swedish west coast dated at about 1900. I've learned  "Go small, go simple, go now" when it comes to long distance sailing. Applied to scale model shipbuilding that would translate to something of small real world dimensions and a rather simple type based on some source that you already have. In my case it panned out to be a "Kåg". For those not familiar with Swedish pronunciation of words (most are not, so don't worry) it originates from the Dutch kaeg or cog. 
 
Basically it is a fishing vessel. It was all about herring during 17th to early 20th on the west coast of Sweden. By the way, swedes are still a lot about herring marinated in more or less fantastic ways. You will find them on any decent "smörgåsbord".
 
Included in my source is a couple of plans and the first tasks include some CAD to create plans that can be used to build something. Real world dimensions for this particular vessel is some 22 feet between perpendiculars with a width of 10 feet. Length over all will be some 9,5 meters. Scaled down 1:30 the hull will be 225 mm stem to stern with a moulded width of 96 mm.
 
The clinker boards will be just shy of 1 mm thick, which I think is the smallest I could manage.
Real world materials were oak for basic structure, top strake and details. The lower strakes were of pine. Mast and spars of fir.
Materials for the scale model will be apple for basic structure, mast and spars and probably birch for the boards.
So far the introduction. Over to the build.
At this moment I have not produced any dust yet, only managed to create templates for the hull, keel, stem and stern. Starting up with CAD has a steep learning curve... 
 
The book:

A picture of the vessel sailing (maiden tryouts):

Keel, stem and stern.

I will happily try to answer any questions and will also of course gladly take on any help and suggestions to aid in the building process.

The perfect recipe for a workshop for scratch or semi-scratch builders:
 
1 part Byrnes table saw
1 part Byrnes thickness sander
1 part Byrnes disk sander
 
After simmering, add in 1 part Sherline Mill and 1 part Proxxon planer
Finish with Sherline lathe and mini drill press
 
The above recipe will require a large portion of lettuce (green) but the finished product should last a lifetime

The first planks of the wales are on, so far, so good. They are a little oversize in thickness to allow for leveling later, but the hooked joints are tight. These were the most challenging pieces I have installed so far on this project, with compound curves and tight tolerances on the hooked joints.

Mark
 

Mark and Ed, I missed your comments before I just posted above.
 
Ed, I take your advice to heart; attending rigorously to the drawing is going to avoid any visual ad hoc adjusting that will later get me into trouble. I am also reassured that the wale appears to be parallel to the top of the hull right at the bows, since that was also carefully plotted from the sheer.
 
Interestingly, as I tried to figure out why my plotting on the hull was originally erroneous right at the stem, I double checked my means of measuring. I had been using a gantry like yours to measure from a set height above the hull. But I unfortunately discovered that in my recent move, the gantry came out of true. The top of the gantry is not completely parallel to the base, and sheer drawing relationship to the top edge of the board has changed slightly. I don't know if this is the increased humidity, or things got knocked, but recalibration is definitely necessary!
 
Mark, I see what you mean about the original Bellona model. Yes, they did leave off the topmost, foremost strake, I believe to avoid running into the temporary batten in this demonstration model. So I am definitely working to the top line of the wale taken from the sheer drawing, and I will be planking with four strakes in the wale. And it is a joy to be able to work on this more fully in retirement, although I still don't get as much done as Ed does in a day. He sets a standard to which I continue to aspire!
 

Update :
 
fitting the decore rings around the gunports. The port side remains closed to the sea with decore shield plugs.
All oarports will have hinged, small doorlets, the port ones closed and the stb. ones open, because of the sweeps in place....
The wales have been painted dull black, the mermaid decore in golden color....
 
Nils
 
 

the center of these butons will be cut away with a jig saw....., and remaining deburs faired carefully with a diamond file..
 
 

the rings and the lion decore are made from buttons for clothes
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

For the gold paint I`m using a Swedish product, Panduro, its a waterbased acryllic gloss coat, which gives far better results than the former used Humbrol gold enamel
 

the plug shields have a shoulder, whick lays against the inner bulwark planking. The spacing here had to be quite exact, in order to get everything in its place
 
 
 

Update :  (status report)
 
made some additional supporting braces in the areas where the gunports will be cut into the bulwarks....
On the stb. side the template fror the gun plattform can be seen
 
Nils
 

the guns standing on rails, the barrels pointing upwards, where they will be strapped to the upper bulwarks
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 

 
 
 
 

Thank You Hakan,
The 'Ostend shipje' has some similarity with the British smack, but it is only half the size of it. Flemish fishermen who evaded to Great Brittan during the 1st World War got acquainted with the smack and introduced the type in Belgium after the war. I have somewhere a smack cross section project on the shelf, but have to finish first my HMS Triton cross section.
 
G.L.