Wintergreen

After several weeks away from the museum, I was finally able to get back there yesterday and get a bit more work done on the 'Pritt'.
 
I was able to get the anchor cable fitted (yes, her cable was common link chain - not stud link); lash the lifebuoys up in the mizzen rigging, and get quite a few of the iron bar ratlines rigged.  The bars take a lot longer to rig than ordinary rope ratlines as they have to be lashed to each shroud - a time consuming task.
 
So now I only have to finish lashing on the ratlines- and clean them up and paint them and finish the sidelights and fit them, plus a bit of detail clean up work, and she's done!
 
I'm reckoning on another couple of visits to the museum - interruptions allowing - to finish her off.
 
John
 
An overall view of the 'Pritt' as she is at the moment

 
 
The port quarter showing lifebuoys lashed up in the rigging pearler style - I'm not sure how quickly they could actually get one of these over the side if someone was silly enough to go over the wall!

 
The mainmast showing metal bar ratlines as far as they've got.  A lot of cleaning up still to do here.

 
The anchor and cable.  It took me ages to get the chain to look as though it had just been dumped onto the deck.

My time has been much diverted so progress has been slow.
 
I decided to make the bowsprit but only had square section timber available. I have a 4 jaw independent chuck but changing over from the 3 jaw chuck is very tedious and I wanted to find a quick solution to holding square section stock for masts and spars. The primary requirement was to hold and drive the square section stock while turning the diameter at the opposite end.
 
I made a wooden hub with concentric bore diameters. The concentric diameters being made in a single operation using a step drill. The square section of the timber goes into the nearest across corners diameter hole. A piece of sting provides the drive and the tape takes up any slack in the fit.
 






 
I installed the hawsepipes. The upper ends were filed to the correct length and angle using wooden guides temporally held in place by double sided tape.
 



 
 
I mounted the bowsprit foot on the deck. The bolts holding the foot down are reading glasses repair screws - from ebay. 
 

The holes in the bulwark through which the martingales pass turned out quite neatly, so I was pleased that i went to the trouble of using a brass sleeve.
 

 
I spent most of the day making the turnbuckles for the martingales.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Today I got on with a bit of brass work.
 
Under the stern are 3 discharge pipes.
 

 
I made a start on a bit of detail at the bow.
 
A small hole had to be drilled parallel to the hole in the bulwark for the jib boom. The fore topmast stay passes through this hole. The angles are a bit complex so I decided to take drilling easy using a pin vice.
 


 
I also made and attached the dolphin striker and the 2 outriggers for the martingales.
 


 
Obliquely angled holes pass through the bulwark to take the martingales. I decided to line these with brass tubes to give a crisp edge. Again I drilled using the pin vice and corrected the angle using a round needle file. It took an age to get the angles correct. I should have done this before painting as now touching up will be necessary. You live and learn!
 

 
I used brass rod to make sure the tubes were correctly aligned while glueing.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Glenn beautiful work on the roof and chimneys. The work on the mast bands using the CNC certainly gives great results. The method of machining them out this way gives me the same concern as when I fretted out with a jewelers saw the mast-cap out of some solid brass, it seems that there is a far larger amount of brass that goes into the scrap box that when these parts are fabricated or cast.
 
We all make these sorts of decisions and choices and I am not being critical of the method, it occurs to me though that as we invent "better" ways of doing things there are always consequences. No matter what methods we employ the embedded energy in the materials and methods bear thinking about especially when we "replicate" artifacts from our past.
 
I am starting to ask my self more "how would my forebears have tackled this problem" given my current understanding and knowledge of the technology of their time, which by its nature is a moving target.
 
Regards Michael

Hello,
 
today only a small update, the work going slowly. The fore part of planking was most complicated one, I decide to make them as one piece of three plank to achieve clear rounding. The first image show the principle:
 

 

 
Here both pieces glued in place:
 

 
Overall view:
 

 
First plank of after part is also glued.
 
Alex

Hello all and many thanks for warm words!
 
here the last news from the yard. I planned to let unplanked areas on the Fore Castle and Quarter deck, the image below show the idea:
 

 
The planking continues...
 

 

 

 
Alex

Hi Keith!
 
I had a subscription for one of the magz about classic boats for several years. I find these classics just so beautiful to look at and yours is no exception.
 
The deck structures are really coming along nicely. I think the key to success in regards of Mahogany, is the finish. Enough coats to fill every little crevice (or wood structure or what its called) to get an absolutely smooth surface is a must. If one fails in that the appearance will be dull and a bit dirty. The gentleman I bought our blue water sailing yacht from did not have time to varnish the interior teak more than once when he built the boat. It looks horrific.
 
Also Chucks paintwork is extraordinary even though he uses regular brushes. Several thin coats instead of a couple of thick ones.
 
Keep up the good work!

Time for a bit of an update.  The quarter deck framing is completed.  There are several openings in the midline which need to be addressed.  Most forward is the ladderway, followed by the upper capstan step.  Behind that are three gratings panels.  Each of the gratings is designed to be different in width, so they needed to be made individually, rather than making a long strip of grating and simply cutting off the length required.
 
This leaves a final opening in front of the mizzen mast.  On the deck plan there is a dotted line within the outline of the hatch, suggesting that the was a structure inserted into the opening.  The openings for the grating do not have the same dotted line; therefore the structure was not a grating.  David states that it is possible there was a companion over this opening.  On the plan view there is no structure visible above the hatch coaming.  Below this opening is the salon...officer's country.  I doubt they would have wanted to get wet or, even more so, have their conversations overheard.  So a companion will be made for the opening.
 
Finally, there is a scuttle for the topmast tackle in front of and lateral to the ladderway opening.
 

 

 

 
 

Hello everyone,
 
Sorry for not being in touch for a while.  I've had a string of very busy weekends for the Holidays and haven't had the chance to post anything.  The last couple of weeks I've completed the last details that I needed to finish the Hurricane deck.  Hopefully, I'll be able to apply the canvas to the deck this next week.
 
Originally, I was going to try to frame up the skylights with individual timbers but then I wondered if it could be milled from four solid panels.  They turned out ok and it saved me a lot of time.  The skylights on some of the early steamers were glazed with ground glass for privacy.  I will be using sanded mica.
 
Front panel of the skylight in the mill.

 

 
Finished panels

 

 
Sorry, once again I should have dusted the parts before taking the photo.

 
There was probably a large galley stove on the main deck.  Kevin chose this Wilson's patent stove to represent Heroine's.

 
Kevin's drawing of Heroine's galley stove.

 
Freshly milled parts.  I used a block of walnut as a core for the stove.

 
Ceaned parts ready for soldering.

 
 
Finished galley stove.

 
Stove installed on main deck with firebrick lining and stovepipe.

 
One crushed stovepipe cap was recovered from the wreck.

 
Scale patterns for the stovepipe cap.  The top piece was cut from .01 inch brass sheet.

 

 

 
To shape the cap I turned a piece of aluminum with the proper angle.  Before shaping I heated the part to anneal it then I was able to easily shape it to the form without creases.  

 

 
The uprights were filed from an appropriately sized brass tube.

 

 
Finished cap.

 
Cabin stove stovepipes blackened and capped.  The larger galley stove pipe still needs to be blackened and capped.

Thank you Bedford.
 
Hello Wintergreen, thanks for visiting my build. Its good to get feedback from a fellow yachtsman.
 
Today was the last day of building for a few days. A 50th wedding anaversary to go to and the brother in law and wife then arriving from Arizona. I think they will find the temperature difference a bit extreme.
 
Returning to the build. In trepidation I decided to take my rather powerful DIY drill to the hull. I needed to mount the portholes - 7 in total - 4 starboard and 3 port, this required the boring of .250 inch dia holes by .250 inch deep.
 
I wanted to get the positioning spot on so I used a card template which I transferred from side to side.
 


 
The holes were drilled slightly undersize and finished off with emery cloth glued to a piece of dowel. The previously made portholes (covered earlier) were glued in place with ca.
 




 
I also finished off mounting the screw. The "A" frame was glued into the hull and the mounting plates pinned in place.
 



 
 
 
 
 

Yes, I'm still alive. But no time for modelling or even to follow along all the beautiful logs here. Life, you know... my oldest daughter moved back to our small town and made med grandpa last Feb. Happy days! They live just down the road (1km) from us and I'm so so glad. An adorable girl (aren't they all) named Agnes.

Hi Keith!
 
I had a subscription for one of the magz about classic boats for several years. I find these classics just so beautiful to look at and yours is no exception.
 
The deck structures are really coming along nicely. I think the key to success in regards of Mahogany, is the finish. Enough coats to fill every little crevice (or wood structure or what its called) to get an absolutely smooth surface is a must. If one fails in that the appearance will be dull and a bit dirty. The gentleman I bought our blue water sailing yacht from did not have time to varnish the interior teak more than once when he built the boat. It looks horrific.
 
Also Chucks paintwork is extraordinary even though he uses regular brushes. Several thin coats instead of a couple of thick ones.
 
Keep up the good work!

Hi Keith!
 
I had a subscription for one of the magz about classic boats for several years. I find these classics just so beautiful to look at and yours is no exception.
 
The deck structures are really coming along nicely. I think the key to success in regards of Mahogany, is the finish. Enough coats to fill every little crevice (or wood structure or what its called) to get an absolutely smooth surface is a must. If one fails in that the appearance will be dull and a bit dirty. The gentleman I bought our blue water sailing yacht from did not have time to varnish the interior teak more than once when he built the boat. It looks horrific.
 
Also Chucks paintwork is extraordinary even though he uses regular brushes. Several thin coats instead of a couple of thick ones.
 
Keep up the good work!

Thanks all for the warm welcome back!
 
So here's some progress. The forward strokes of the spriketting are done. Two layers of wood are used, they are now thin enough to bend by hand and set them in place to do the final shaping to match the waterway. They are done anchor stock style, so not having to do wet/warm bending them is a big plus. 
 
The first layer is intentionally done a bit wider and cut to size after the second layer is fixed (the surplus is seen in the second pic)
Getting to fay the planks into the waterway called for some additional sanding and shaping to get a clean transition.
 

 

 
The quick work will be thinner and can probably be done with a single layer of planking. 
 
Remco
 

I airbrush quite infrequently with long breaks, typically of a year. I therefore need to relearn the technique each time. This time the relearning was complicated by a different model of airbrush - gravity feed as opposed to suction feed. The new brush delivered a lot more flow which was a bit of a surprise and I ended up with a couple of runs - which fortunately I blew out with air. The paint was matt white Humbrol enamel.
 
The pictures are of the 2nd coat ( I am now on coat 5). I was pleased with the definition on the sculptured hull. The matt white seems to emphasise this and create really good definition.
 



 
A couple more coats should do it and the masking tape should come off Friday morning. I a hoping that I won't get any bleed but at the same time I am a realist and therefore expecting a little. 
 
Brush painting of the deck structures continues - now on 6th coat (with poly thinned - half and half). 2 more coats should do it.
 


 
 
 
 
 

Yes, I'm still alive. But no time for modelling or even to follow along all the beautiful logs here. Life, you know... my oldest daughter moved back to our small town and made med grandpa last Feb. Happy days! They live just down the road (1km) from us and I'm so so glad. An adorable girl (aren't they all) named Agnes.

Thanks Michael.
 
I spent a bit of time fitting the sliding roof hatch. It worked out pretty well.
 




 
I then made a start on painting the various deck structures.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

Yes, I'm still alive. But no time for modelling or even to follow along all the beautiful logs here. Life, you know... my oldest daughter moved back to our small town and made med grandpa last Feb. Happy days! They live just down the road (1km) from us and I'm so so glad. An adorable girl (aren't they all) named Agnes.

A belated "Well done", or maybe a "Pass with distinction" applies  better. 
I just spent this Saturday evening browsing through this blog and your work, albeit on a simpler construction, is up to you usual standard.
It tickles my mind that I need to return to the workshop doing small work instead of handling wall boards, floor sanding equipment and alike on my spare time...
 
Many thanks for your inspirational work, Ed!

A belated "Well done", or maybe a "Pass with distinction" applies  better. 
I just spent this Saturday evening browsing through this blog and your work, albeit on a simpler construction, is up to you usual standard.
It tickles my mind that I need to return to the workshop doing small work instead of handling wall boards, floor sanding equipment and alike on my spare time...
 
Many thanks for your inspirational work, Ed!

A belated "Well done", or maybe a "Pass with distinction" applies  better. 
I just spent this Saturday evening browsing through this blog and your work, albeit on a simpler construction, is up to you usual standard.
It tickles my mind that I need to return to the workshop doing small work instead of handling wall boards, floor sanding equipment and alike on my spare time...
 
Many thanks for your inspirational work, Ed!

Thank you one and all for the positive comments.
 
Håkan​, congratulations on the grand-daughter.  As a grandfather, I assume you now spend all your time in your rocking chair!  
 
John

Yes, I'm still alive. But no time for modelling or even to follow along all the beautiful logs here. Life, you know... my oldest daughter moved back to our small town and made med grandpa last Feb. Happy days! They live just down the road (1km) from us and I'm so so glad. An adorable girl (aren't they all) named Agnes.

Baggy wrinkle??? But it most be those catepillars crawling their way up the lifts, right?
To minimize shafe on the sails I presume the intention was. 
I cant say much else about your build than it looks than it looks picture perfect.
 
Keep it up John!