Wintergreen

Well, if so, it is a learning experience as you've already stated 😉 
From what we can see of your photos you will be just fine. Don't rush it though, that's never a good idea.
 
Keep it up!

Okay, so this may be your first ship model, but man, you have painted before!
That Cap'n looks extraordinary.
 
Keep it up!

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

Mike,
I understand the rustiness of starting again.   My own modeling has been periods of good work, then long periods (sometimes years) of inactivity.   It takes a lot to get back into the right mental frame to work, especially when you are working on something that requires checking sources, calculating things, planning the order of tasks, not to mention the concentration of doing the actual hand (or machine) work.   When I start back up sometimes I can only work for 10 or 15 minutes at a time, for a few days, at least, until I build up my modeling stamina!
 
Good luck on your progress!
 
Ron  

Mast steps are not complicated, but struggling with pattern transfer. 
Feeling like I miss some obvious tricks? Even thought about making a miniature duplicator tool with toothpicks instead of metal pins
Would appreciate your advice!
 
First I tried to make patterns like on a full scale - by gluing small rectangles on a piece of card. That way works great for real boats, but is very awkward and potentially messy on a small scale.
But I like that tiny plastic vernier gauge! Got a few of those to measure spacing inside the hull without scratching it.

 
Then I just traced a frame pattern on a piece of card and eyeballed the other side. That is less complicated than I thought, but takes a lot of fine tuning (counter light helps too). But feels like an art rather than a reliable and repeatable method.
Though should admit - trimming and cutting card is quite satisfying!
Is that how everyone is doing it or is there is an easy way?   

Practicing the quiet modelling (in preparation for the evening sessions) - tried a coping saw instead of a bandsaw. The dust extraction problem solved itself, vacuum hose fits perfectly between the clamps:

Finally - the rough pear blanks are cut and I hope to shape them into beautiful parts in the upcoming days! 
I really aint much, but a little symbolic step towards the healthy hobby routine

Looks really good, well done!
 
Keep it up!

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

Welcome back Mark!
It is quite apparent that you enjoy the drawing business. Also, knowing that you are lefthanded means that you probably (but not necessarily) is quite apt at the artistic side of drawing also, and not only the engineering side.
(We discussed work benches a long time ago and I envied, still env, your lefthand adapted work bench).
 
Also, I like the reasoning about the false floor in the quarter galleries. It is just on another level of interpreting the original drafts and applying them to a somewhat virtual reality in 1:64.
 
I hope that your nerves get back in working order and so,
Keep it up!

Looks really good, well done!
 
Keep it up!

Post One Hundred and Fifty- nine.
 
Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Two)
Freed from its building frame and the centres removed the process of fitting out can begin.
 
I have always been amazed that twisting away the mdf centres leaves the hull intact with little trace of their removal….
But not this time; - the planking partly disassembled, requiring careful re-fitting and use of diluted pva on the inside to stabilise the hull.
How this will impact on the build remains to be seen, but it may be necessary to paint the inner bulwarks.

4008
I made a Styrene foam cradle to support the hull whilst attempting to clean up the inside.
I used a combination of micro chisels, pen sander, and sheets to remove the glue adhesions and rough surfaces.
This is quite a fraught operation and needed careful handling.
 
I take notice of where areas will be covered by the footwaling, fore deck, benches and thwarts, and make pragmatic decisions how far to take the cleaning up in these areas, against risk of further damage.

4007
I wasn’t too keen on the set-up at the stern, so I installed a stern post.
I dislike the brass etched rudder facings, supplied with these kits, convenient as they may be. The wooden rudder core was faced with 0.6mm pear and then sanded down to shape.
 
The hanging arrangement will be modified to reflect the true set-up.

4020
Unlike my previous experience of Vanguard boats the Pinnace has Pearwood gratings and footwaling which I like. More convenient and natural looking than the brass etched versions which require painting and sticking with ca.
 
At this stage there are a few additions one can make to the boats to add realism.
Lifting ringbolts to the footwaling, and mast steps as shown in the above photo.

4016
I divert from the kit when it comes to fitting the thwart supports, I leave them extended to the stern to support the sternsheet benches.

4017
The benches are provided as a unit including the aftermost thwart.
 

4025
I prefer to cut this away, modify the benches and add the thwart as a separate item.
I have added a panel below the aft seat which will double up as a compartment.
 
When it comes to the cox’n seat there is a slight issue; a grating is provided, but it sits far too high to be a practical  platform for the Cox’n ‘s feet.

4032
It is prevented going lower by a ledge forming part of the keel set-up. Careful paring away of this incumbrance allows the grating to sit at a more realistic level.
A minor point maybe but the detail devil in me wouldn’t let it go.

4037
The bow platform comes as a pre-cut item which wasn’t a good fit on my build no doubt because of my failings. Fortunately, there is plenty of fret to re-make these items.

4028
Still very much w-i-p and a lot yet to do.
 
 
B.E.
21/03/2024

 

Exactly so!
 
Back to boats:-
 
I did a bit of pencil and paper draughting and dimensioned up the centres for cutting the various circles that will eventually form the core of the frame.
 

I then glued the template to the brass sheet and mounted it on the mill.
 
The various diameters of circular features were then cut with a step drill.

At this stage I also drilled location holes for pinning the thickened sections of the frame in position (red arrow). These were drilled in a location that would subsequently be removed.

I then started sawing away the unwanted parts of the frame. I didn't have coarse enough jewellers saw blade but I ploughed on anyway, taking an excessive amount of time and breaking an excessive number of blades. I really must listen to my own mental advice in future and put stuff aside until I have the correct tools to hand.

Anyway - some time later:-

Next a bit of filing:-

Then the 2 thickening plates were cut and drilled with 4 holes. The lower pair of holes match the location pins in the central frame piece (pins already inserted in the photo).

The upper pair of holes are for retaining screws to clamp the ticketing plates for later machining operations. They are also in the scrap area and will be cut away later.

Now back to moaning about planned obsolescence. 🙂

Well that turned out much better than I'd hoped! 
The hardest part of the frames were sawing all the pieces out by hand, but I eventually got it done (with a sore arm!) and the installation went very well. It definetely helped having a disc sander with a tilting table which allowed me to sand the angle at the foot of the frames with great precision. 

Hello, and many thanks for all the likes
because the vegetation here is 4 weeks in advance of normal years, my garden now needed much of my time. But today it rained and so I'm back at the shipyard.
 
The carpenters set in the deck beams and started with the paneling of the walls.



 

Dear friends,
Although there is a sort of hiatus in my Agamemnon build I thought I could show something else. A relative of mine sent me a picture.

It depicts my father with one of his model boats. I think the photo is taken around 1947-48. He later became a naval architect but unfortunately passed away many years ago far too early. Later in life he a built a sailing boat in scale 1:1. Is there a gene for particular ship modelling gene which is passed on for generations?
 
Does anyone recognize the model? 
 
I hope I am not getting off topic in my build log?
 
Best regards
 
Henrik
 

Famous swedish Greta was born in 1905 and died in 1990.
The world was black and white then and people communicated via subtitles rather than spoken words.
Nothing remains the same except for greed. I would have liked to tell a more encouraging revelation.
 
Fortunately greed is not the driving force for all human beings.
Some 6 billion people ought to find common solutions for sustainable economy and consumption.
 
I`m in favour of EVs powered by electricity from overhead lines on motorways and national/federal roads.
For short distance rides on minor roads a small battery would be sufficient.
Just my imagination. I work in construction. The goal of zero emission buildings can be accomplished easily.
Regarding transportation I don`t really have a clue.
 
After having saved the world let`s continue watching Keith`s magnificent Cangarda build .
 
Michael 
 
 

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

I agree on EdT:s build logs as a fantastic source of information. I bought the first Naiad book only for the tools and drafting sections in it.
He didn't use scales, instead he used the profile plan and took heights from it directly. The plan was mounted on a board with a ledge representing the bottom line.
Framing is a lengthy process. It feels it will never end, and then all of a sudden all frames are in 😉 
How is that wood for sanding? I used apple, which I knew would be tedious, but there was less risk of sanding too much.
 
Keep it up!

It has an intriguing hull form with the bulbous section just aft of the center. 
Nice planking and sanding.
 
Keep it up!

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

I agree on EdT:s build logs as a fantastic source of information. I bought the first Naiad book only for the tools and drafting sections in it.
He didn't use scales, instead he used the profile plan and took heights from it directly. The plan was mounted on a board with a ledge representing the bottom line.
Framing is a lengthy process. It feels it will never end, and then all of a sudden all frames are in 😉 
How is that wood for sanding? I used apple, which I knew would be tedious, but there was less risk of sanding too much.
 
Keep it up!

Im only replacing it because the UK legislation now requires manufacturers to increase their % of electric cars sold by 20% per year. That means that by 2030 you won't be able to buy anything other than electric. I want to get in while I still have some choice left.

Dear all
 
Many thanks for your comments and likes.
@Dr PR You are right re: epoxy Phil, but I ve used beech wood - couldn't have made a worse choice!
 
I ve lost count how many times I have had to go back to the hull. It keeps on changing shape, new cracks appearing, planks shifting, it follows the change of seasons and when it reaches equilibrium with the ambient moisture the planks go walkabout. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer so I can paint and varnish it and then leave it to cycle through its moods. For now, I ve just used some more filler - Ill sand it smooth tomorrow. 


I am using Osmo filler which is wonderfull stuff, run out of beech colour so using colourless but I ll prime the hull so it does not matter.
 
I finished the inner planking and sand it smooth - ish. I ve been scratching my head for some time now, not sure how the floorboards should be arranged. There is a substantial curve at the sides where the floor meets the side planking. Not sure how this would have been made
 




In the meantime, I made another model with my 7 year old daughter - a school project. The photos are terrible but you may just make out the cotton at the top of the chimneys. We really enjoyed the juice previously contained in the hull.



Till next time
 
Vaddoc