clloyd

Hmmm.  They seem to be reasonably acceptable, Danny.
 
John

Thank you Marc and Duff - you're building a Vulture too? I can't seem to find a Build Log of her .
 
Here is the full set of Channels. Now I need to fit them to the hull and make some Standards for them.
 

 
  Danny

Hi all, back from my holidays again .
 
Channels
 
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
 

 

 

 

 
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
 

 

 
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
 

 
  Danny

John, thanks - your recollection is correct - it is quite dim and absolutely pushing the limits of my camera.
 
Druxley, Marc - I figured the general interest in any contemporary evidence amongst the members of this site would make things like that  (which are quite different) interesting and hopefully useful.
 
Mark - I got stuck in a "lots of pics" = "gallery" mindset.  I checked with chuck and he was ok, but you are absolutely right - that forum is probably a better place.  Will shift things around when I get more than 5 mins to myself.
 
Colin

Hi All
 
just uploaded a gallery of photos of the Batavia original timbers that are on display in the Shipwreck museum in Fremantle.  I took these about 18mo ago while out there, and figured they would be a useful resource for anyone interested in VOC ships.  Batavia dates from 1628.
 
There are some interesting features and a couple of the cannon she was carrying as well.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/648-batavia-shipwreck-wa-museum-shipwreck-galleries-fremantle/
 
Imgages are HD size - which kept them well inside the upload size limit.  If anyone wants full size (18M pixel) of any pic PM and I'll forward it to you.
 
Colin

Hardest decision to make.  Not as hard a trying to push on with something you aren't happy with anymore.
 
I'll look forward to version 2 as well.
 
Colin

Hi All
 
just uploaded a gallery of photos of the Batavia original timbers that are on display in the Shipwreck museum in Fremantle.  I took these about 18mo ago while out there, and figured they would be a useful resource for anyone interested in VOC ships.  Batavia dates from 1628.
 
There are some interesting features and a couple of the cannon she was carrying as well.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/648-batavia-shipwreck-wa-museum-shipwreck-galleries-fremantle/
 
Imgages are HD size - which kept them well inside the upload size limit.  If anyone wants full size (18M pixel) of any pic PM and I'll forward it to you.
 
Colin

Hi All
 
just uploaded a gallery of photos of the Batavia original timbers that are on display in the Shipwreck museum in Fremantle.  I took these about 18mo ago while out there, and figured they would be a useful resource for anyone interested in VOC ships.  Batavia dates from 1628.
 
There are some interesting features and a couple of the cannon she was carrying as well.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/648-batavia-shipwreck-wa-museum-shipwreck-galleries-fremantle/
 
Imgages are HD size - which kept them well inside the upload size limit.  If anyone wants full size (18M pixel) of any pic PM and I'll forward it to you.
 
Colin

Brilliant!  It looks just like you think it should.
 
Colin

Lovely ratlines.  A big job done really nicely.
 
Colin

A chart room.... lets's see. look now, Piet's getting carried away already
 
First the chimney, I was looking through my books because these came in al sorts and shapes
 

 
But fortunately TFFM hinted me to also check my NMM plans and guess what the chimney was drawn in so getting the shape right was easy peasy. (reminder look more on the NMM plans there is more on it than I had thought)
 
The pyramid shape was diver soldered from some scrap pieces, the funnel turned and tapered on the lathe. 
 

 
The floor was added in front of the stove. And here it is ready to be lit this was really a fun challenge to do, thank you Druxey for inspiring me to give it a try.
 

 

 
Remco

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 37 – Stern Timbering 1
 
I have been looking forward to the stern timbering for some time – in fact since first deciding on the subject ship.  At first glance it looks a bit daunting, but the plan view template and accurately lofted patterns turned the assembly into a pretty easy task.  Most of the work was in the lofting, so I included a picture of the pattern sheet for the eight timbers.
 

 
The pattern lofting was a bit complex.  The timbers are angled off of the last cant frame, which is itself at an angle.  Some mental gymnastics were needed to find enough points on the drawings to plot the four curves for each timber.  I did one for a trial and its fit encouraged me to go on and add the scores for the horizontal chocks to the patterns.  Those chocks will be added in Part 38.
 
In the next picture a new version of one of the central timbers shown earlier is set temporarily in place and the bevel against the aft cant frame is being marked.
 

 
The pattern is still on at this stage.  In the next picture, after installing the one shown above, its opposite counterpart is being glued on.  These were made before I decided to loft the scores on the patterns so these will be cut later, in place. The two timbers will later be bolted through the sternpost.
 

 
In the above picture, the vertical scores for the stern timbers can be seen on the cant frames.  The next picture was taken at this stage but from above.
 

 
In the next picture, the first of the angled timbers has been fit into place.  Note the horizontal scores for the filling chocks at the knuckle.
 

 
In the next picture its opposite counterpart is being fit.
 

 
The joint face angles for all these were measured from the plan drawing, printed on the pattern sheet and faced off on the disk sander with the table set at an angle.  Only slight trimming of the sides of the scores was needed and all fit very well as can be seen in the last picture.
 

 
Following this work, the template was removed to allow a final check of the heights of each timber at the top – the “fancy rail” height – before going on to the filling chocks between the timbers.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 36 – Aftermost Cant Frames (#48)
 
The last picture in the previous posting showed the two aftermost cant frames being assembled.  The same pin indexing was used as discussed in previous posts.  After assembly the frames were beveled.  The first picture shows the deadwood mating surface on one of the pairs being beveled using the disk sander with the table set at the correct angle.  These angles are printed on each frame pattern from generated measurements on the CAD drawing.  They are very accurate and the disk sander reproduces them fairly effortlessly.
 

 
The next picture shows the joint bevel.
 

 
This picture was taken before the outer bevels or the shape at the bearding line were shaped.  The picture shows vertical lines on the pattern aft face that mark the scores for seating the three angled stern timbers that bolt to that side of this frame.
 
In the next picture the lines scores being cut with a razor saw.
 

 
There is also a horizontal score on the forward face of this frame at the “knuckle” of the of the aft hull shape that occurs roughly at the line of the wale.  Horizontal chocks will be inserted in these scores between frames to support the ends of the planking below the wale at the stern.  Similar chocks will be placed between the vertical timbers that shape the circular stern.  This will be clearer later when those timbers get installed.
 
The next picture shows the port frame in its initial fitting into the aft score on the deadwood – held by pins at future bolt locations. 
 

 
In the last part I showed a picture taken earlier with the two central stern timbers installed.  After about an hour of trying to fit the cant frame neatly against one of those and into the score I decided to install the cant frames first.  So the central stern timbers have been removed in these pictures.
 
The three vertical scores on the aft face can be seen in this picture.  The temporary ribband seen in this picture and its starboard counterpart were becoming increasing obstructive to all this work and were soon cut back and removed.
 
The next picture shows the installed frame pair.
 

 
The horizontal score on the forward face can be seen in this picture.
 
The next picture shows the starboard frame clamped for gluing.  The two central stern timbers are being held up in position in this picture.
 

 
To assist in fitting and installing the eight stern timbers that form the curve of the circular stern, a template was made to help with this.  It is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The plywood template is clamped tightly to the two “clamped squares”.  The height at the center of the stern and on each side at about frame 38 was set using the caliper shown in the picture.  The line slopes down slightly going forward.  The template was also horizontally aligned up from the base drawing using the square shown on the port side.  The template is fit over the two installed cant frames. One central timber is loosely fit into its notch in the template.
 
The next task is to loft, make and install the eight timbers that form the circular stern.
 
 
Ed

good evening, all the big turrets are completed, apart from PE, never managed much today, but never mind the SUN came out - better still - it never wained
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks everybody for the nice comments and remarks, and also the guys who pressed the "like" button.
 
I am going to try for an update using IE10, hopefully I've not been scuppered again.
 
The Lower Main Mast is now done as far as the shrouds and ratlines are concerned and the next step is the Lower Foremast, I have just put the ropes into the black dye in readiness for that, so as far as the pictures go it's mainly the Main Mast.
 
I have soaked the Burton Pendants with diluted white glue and they are weighted down so that they hang right.

 

 
Next up is the completed Starboard side ratlines

 

 

 
Now for the Port side, all the deadeyes had to be retied due to the mast leaning to Starboard, the shrouds on retying could almost play a tune they are so tight, but the mast is now straight and all is well.
 
This is my method of holding the deadeye and rope so that I can seize the shroud.

 
You can see by the tails just how much I have had to adjust the shrouds

 
All the shrouds have been adjusted and the ropes have been tied off and trimmed.

 
This is my method when tying ratlines, the shrouds are clamped together with two boards , the boards are the correct size for the ratlines and keep them straight, they also help to keep the shrouds from moving out of alignment but care still needs to be taken

 
Portside shrouds completed prior to trimming up

 
All trimmed and finished

 
So there we are, right up to date, a bit long winded I know but it's been a while and I wanted to give IE10 a good workout.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

My holidays are over so the progress is much slower than before.
 
I did the keelson before building the frames. So it is in my opinion much easier to adjust it with the fore and after deadwood.

 
Before glueing the keelson on the backbone It take a long time. All frames have to be installed first.
 
Today I worked on my first frame. It took quite long to find my way to build the frame. The result is not perfect, but I think doing the next frames will be much easier and faster. If it's interesting for someone I will do a step by step description from building one of the next frames.

A Small Update, Keel has been completed and false keel added, I like the contrast between the swiss pear and the boxwood, now I have started on the stem pieces.
 
ben
 
EDIT - Added missing picture back that was lost. 4-2-14

So can anyone build a mini version of this (THE power tool if you can have only one):

Thank you Greg - no, the case made it to the bedroom but I DID turn on the workshop lights on my way past .
 
 
Garry ..... is that you ? Thanks Steve .
 
Thank you too John.
 
Upper Finishing
 
Work continues on the Quarter Badge. Here is the Upper Finishing under construction. I made it from English Box. The first step was to cut out the lower portion to fit around the bell :
 

 
Then I finessed the inner face to fit tight against the hull planking :
 

 
The outer face was sanded down to fit the curvature of the upper stool :
 

 
Then the upper section was cut on the scroll saw :
 

 
Finally it was rounded off. The flat section on the top will support a carving of a Crown, and the whole piece will be textured :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Druxey, actually it was quite easy. The hardest parts were shaping the molding around the end return and the small notch above the rudder hinge. Cutting the bevel only took one go (I must be getting better at doing things like that "by eye" ).
 
Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
 
This looked like being quite a challenge, but thanks to the instructions and tips in TFFM they haven't been too difficult so far (I haven't got to the Carving part yet though   ). I'm only fitting a Badge to the Port side.
 
The first pieces to be made, which the success of the rest depend on, are the Upper and Lower Stools. These took some careful measuring and marking out to get the right angles. In fact, I had a failure with the lower stool - I didn't have enough angle from the vertical (12 degrees) the first time I glued it in and had to get the Isopropyl out and have a second go. No biggie .
 
I took the shape of the stools straight from the drawing in TFFM and cut two identical pieces. These need slightly different bevels on their inboard edges to keep the stools horizontal athwartships. Here is one stool ready for gluing in, the molding on the edge has already been scraped in :
 

 
To assist in gluing them to the correct angle I used masking tape :
 

 
The upper stool is quite a bit trickier to make than the lower one. It consists of three parts with a "bell" shaped piece in the middle. To make the centre piece I first cut out the lower portion from some thick stock, sanded the outer face to conform with the lower stool, then scraped the molding, and finally sanded the outer portion to shape on the disc sander :
 

 

 

 
The joints are cut at a 45 degree angle. I glued the three pieces together before bevelling the assembly :
 

 
To ensure both stools were perfectly parallel I used a piece of scrap with two bevels sanded into it as a spacer. The 2nd pic shows the spacer in use, but was only my 1st attempt before I realised I'd got the angle wrong :
 

 

 
Take two, after I got the angles right :
 

 
Last step to this stage, I've fitted the four Munions - more tricky angles, all done on the disc sander. The rough bit of cutting into the Sheer Strake above the bell will be covered by the Upper Finishing later on :
 

 
  Danny

Isn't that always the way...   You look at something and wonder why it was done that way, then when you try and do it yourself you find out exactly why.
 
Nice result.
 
Colin

My computer...

Absolutely my Byrnes table saw.  It's the one power tool that I can't replicate what it does with hand tools.
 
Rotary tool would be second.
 
Colin

Isn't that always the way...   You look at something and wonder why it was done that way, then when you try and do it yourself you find out exactly why.
 
Nice result.
 
Colin