kruginmi
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kruginmi got a reaction from Engelmann in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I have been doing several samples and think I have finally hit upon my solution set for the Druid-X.
First off, my palette:
I use sanding sealer prior to the acrylic paints, topped off with a top coat. My original thought was a satin top coat, but that proved a no go. I used a flat and that seemed to do the trip, though the camera shot shows it with a more of a gloss than it does.
The white will be the lower hull (no copper), black for the wales and yellow for upper hull and lower masts. The red is a darker one that I like (no historical research here, just something I found).
Finally, being able to paint the masts and yardarm the next step will be rigging. How will I get those lines nice and served? With my new Serv-O-Matic of course:
Tomorrow is them treating the main yard and lower main mast.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Acrylic paint for wood ship models
With all my tests this is my palette for painting the Druid-X (all wood is basswood):
A nice sanding sealer, acrylic paints and then a top coat. I originally chose a satin coat but that proved way too glossy over the paint. The flat looks great, but the camera shot still looks a little shiny.
I used both off the shelf 'craft' acrylics and more expensive ones (model colors). I used generally three coats for each. Coverage seemed good for all. I did some light sanding after the applying the sealer.
Tomorrow I actually put brush to my mast and main yard arm. Hoping it meets my expectations.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks for all the looks and likes!
This evening success breads motivation. So....I continued on with the population of the main yard arm: cleats and boom irons.
I had thought long and hard about the stunsl booms. Carrying on the theme of the main mast I decided to try using black paper and mini-dowels for the irons holding them onto the main yard. I don't think they turned out too bad. Taking a step back I am definitely ready for that topmast yard.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm:
I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process. I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins.
You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast. This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden.
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Sanity Check time.....
I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks. (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them)
Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging. Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those. Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly. There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that.
I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck). My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses.
This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks. Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required. I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong.
My purchasing requirements had been:
I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6". I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good.
The education of Krug,
mark
P.S THANK YOU CHUCK!
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it.
So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work.
This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal.
Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard.....
I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview:
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt.
The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance.
This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
And the saga continues....
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top. Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward. The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder. It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square. I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place. I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect. Square internal holes in basswood.
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on. It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are! A little progress when possible.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32".
I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself.
Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps.
I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it:
Stay building my friends,
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!)
So what are cheek blocks?
Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right.
mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
I have been doing several samples and think I have finally hit upon my solution set for the Druid-X.
First off, my palette:
I use sanding sealer prior to the acrylic paints, topped off with a top coat. My original thought was a satin top coat, but that proved a no go. I used a flat and that seemed to do the trip, though the camera shot shows it with a more of a gloss than it does.
The white will be the lower hull (no copper), black for the wales and yellow for upper hull and lower masts. The red is a darker one that I like (no historical research here, just something I found).
Finally, being able to paint the masts and yardarm the next step will be rigging. How will I get those lines nice and served? With my new Serv-O-Matic of course:
Tomorrow is them treating the main yard and lower main mast.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>
Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....
A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):
The following lines are connected to this rail:
1. Mainsail clewlines
2. Mainsail buntlines
3. Mainsail Leechlines
4. Topsail Clewlines
5. Topsail reef tackles
6. Topgallant sheets
The question is how? Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one. Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses. Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that. At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question. With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.
If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:
1. Mainstaysail halyard
2. Mizzen Topsail Bowline
3. Fore Topgallant Brace
Any opinions?
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
You make progress when you can. I have affixed the futtock templates for ten half frames using around one and a third boards (3 inch by 24 inch, 1/8 inch thick). For comparison sake, using the expedited method created two half frames per board length if memory serves correct.
Many different techniques that probably vary with wood type, but for basswood I evenly apply a coat of rubber cement to the wood and allow to dry, usually around 5 minutes. Then I apply a second coat and apply the paper templates to the wet surface. You have around 5 seconds of maneuver time to slide them around before I apply pressure from the center and rub outwards to insure flat and totally affixed.
After getting the other ten halves affixed I will rough cut out using the scroll saw and cut the mating joints using the Byrnes saw with my sled.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Now to get down to business - the frames. I created four copies of each of the frame patterns. Two of the copies were allocated to creating the patterns for the two layers of each frame. I intend to keep a millimeter or so of extra wood on either side of each piece.
Once the pieces are rough cut to their dimensions I will cut the join edges using my sled on the Byrnes saw. Then the frames will be glued together individually over the third plan (with wax paper). Once each half is complete, the fourth plan will be glued onto the resultant frame before final shaping.
I will super detail the exposed frame face of each side of the cross section, but will leave the rest as shown. With full planking the others will not be seen.
More pics to follow showing that. You can see I am still using the baseboard (built upside down). Hope to have the first frame together this weekend.
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
After much thinking, egg nog and input from people, I have come to a decision....(drum roll)....
I will be adding blocks affixed directly to the deck beam below the deck using ring bolts for those lines of concern (look at added green and purple annotations):
The sheets, brace and two clewlines will incorporate these blocks, which equates to two blocks between each railing section. The single halyard will use a double block with the starboard mainsail clew line (though not present on this build).
Happy New Year,
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from albert in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
<<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>>
Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing....
A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction):
The following lines are connected to this rail:
1. Mainsail clewlines
2. Mainsail buntlines
3. Mainsail Leechlines
4. Topsail Clewlines
5. Topsail reef tackles
6. Topgallant sheets
The question is how? Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one. Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses. Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that. At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question. With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision.
If I was rigging a full ship you would also add:
1. Mainstaysail halyard
2. Mizzen Topsail Bowline
3. Fore Topgallant Brace
Any opinions?
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from mtaylor in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
The rigging plans referenced were prepared for the Smithsonian Institution by Merritt A. Edson, Jr. in 1976. This was for (I believe) a model constructed of the original Brilliant. Mr. Hahn did pull the British drawn conversion plans for his hull model plans and I have no idea if rigging ones also exist.
Since it is a Frankenstein ship (a little it of this, a little bit of that) I am not too concerned about exact accuracy, if that is possible at all. This is an exercise in learning all things rigging and how to properly replicate them in scale for me. It is a good mental task to work through all of this stuff and not just accept anything drawn as unquestionable.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from mtaylor in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
Whoops - clarification. The plans shown are BEFORE the deck was extended so.....the railing ended up once converted by the British to be over the fore end of the cargo hatch shown on the plans (but still same size and shape). It would end just before the right side of the snippet shown.
I believe the original questions are still valid. I am opting towards adding sheaves for the clews at the lower end of the stanchions.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from mtaylor in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
Adding to the mix is that this is a deck 'add on.' The British added it upon purchase of the cargo ship to allow the installation of the capstan. They did add two new vertical supports that go through the cargo hatches directly below that support this rail.
I will look at moving the mainsail clew lines or introduction of single sheaves just for their use.
As for the belaying pins, the plans were for the US cargo ship as built in 1774. I just assumed they were appropriate for the period.
Thanks for all the help!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
The rigging plans referenced were prepared for the Smithsonian Institution by Merritt A. Edson, Jr. in 1976. This was for (I believe) a model constructed of the original Brilliant. Mr. Hahn did pull the British drawn conversion plans for his hull model plans and I have no idea if rigging ones also exist.
Since it is a Frankenstein ship (a little it of this, a little bit of that) I am not too concerned about exact accuracy, if that is possible at all. This is an exercise in learning all things rigging and how to properly replicate them in scale for me. It is a good mental task to work through all of this stuff and not just accept anything drawn as unquestionable.
Mark
-
kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
Whoops - clarification. The plans shown are BEFORE the deck was extended so.....the railing ended up once converted by the British to be over the fore end of the cargo hatch shown on the plans (but still same size and shape). It would end just before the right side of the snippet shown.
I believe the original questions are still valid. I am opting towards adding sheaves for the clews at the lower end of the stanchions.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
Adding to the mix is that this is a deck 'add on.' The British added it upon purchase of the cargo ship to allow the installation of the capstan. They did add two new vertical supports that go through the cargo hatches directly below that support this rail.
I will look at moving the mainsail clew lines or introduction of single sheaves just for their use.
As for the belaying pins, the plans were for the US cargo ship as built in 1774. I just assumed they were appropriate for the period.
Thanks for all the help!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
Thanks Henry. I somewhat agree however.....I am thinking (maybe my first mistake) that you add the 17 lines all together and it would add up.
The plans seem to show nothing special, just use the belaying pins and only the top rail. I just wondered if there was something I was missing.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in Quarter Deck Railing composition for rigging lines
For some more of my source data. These are snippets from the Smithsonian plans for the original HMS Brilliant. This is referencing the AFT BREAST RAIL.
You can see how small the posts for the rail are. Not even the width of the pin rail on the bulwark, and looks like not even the same thickness. Hard to believe sheaves are stuck to them. There is a little brace on two of the five posts near the base.
The sheave illustrated for the kevel (on the bulwark) shows using a sheave is possible.
Ho Ho Ho,
Mark
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