popeye the sailor

The display idea is really clever and very effective. Large aircraft take up a lot of real estate around the house. I must try to remember this when the time comes.
Your display is coming on nicely. The Eighth air force badge is a nice touch.
The Vallejo paints do seem stubborn to shake. I have some in my future so the Tax shaker may be borrowed
Great work
Alan

A few years back a friend gave me this kit of a B17F bomber. He was building a B36 in 1/72 scale and wanted a B17 to compare sizes. At the time I was busy scratch building ship models and just put the kit away in the shop shelves
Then, after the disastrous accident I had with my “Freccia Celeste” motorcycle project, I needed to cool off. I decided to build this model as a "proof of concept" of a way to display airplane models in the walls rather than in shelves or hanging from the ceiling. My idea came of my collection of small booklets called “Aircraft Profiles” that presented the aircraft with profiles indicating painting and markings.The plastic models are offered in “flat” trees that resemble a Bas-Relief so I figured that I could lay the different parts of the aircraft in a “Shadow Box” display. During my online searches I found that I was not the only one with these ideas as several guys have done a similar job.

So, I went to Michael’s and purchased a nice shadow box. The back was painted to resemble a cloudy sky and I tested the arrangement using the kit’s parts. I intended to super detail the inside of the Fortress and to purchase etched parts to complement the kits details. 


Following are photos of the build in progress



I ordered the Edwards PE rear cabin details but, when I saw the size of the parts in the PE frets, I figured that 1/72 scale was way beyond my tolerance and decided to use the parts in the kit and some of the PEs to detail only the cockpit and the bombardier/navigator station in the nose of the aircraft.
 





 

The fire extinguisher was scratch built.

 
And this is the project as it stands today. I need to go back and retouch some of the outlines but, other than that, I am pleased with the results.

 
Be gentle with the magnifiers as I am not a very good painter. But, from the middle of room looking at the wall it will be fine. Tomorrow, I expect to mount it on the canvas and set it in the shadow box. It is going to go on exhibit at the Art Show our building is having next week. This is where we, old "f**ts, show our playthings.
 
Now a note for modelers:
 
While building this kit I used Vallejo paints and found they are difficult to shake by hand. So, I came in with a new tool: “The Ras’ Shaker” using a large prescription container.

 

I originally made this for rounding up wood ship's blocks when sandpaper is placed on the inside circumference .Works like a charm. Thanks for following.
 
 

Revell. I’ve got a copy in the stash.

I remember building the plastic kit back then; forget the brand.

Wow nice build Ken!

That's just awesome Ken. A work of art. Hot-rodding a Buick of any kind was always a challenge because just about any high performance item that wasn't stock had to be custom machined. Of course, back in the day when this particular dragster was built, most all high performance items were custom machined. This was a car I wish I had seen live and in person but I don't think it ever raced in my hometown area. Ivo probably did match races with it as a headline featured race on tours. That's how I saw a lot of the old famous dragsters, at match races.
 

Your work always amazes me.  When I look at this model I feel that I am looking at the actual dragster.

A definite jaw dropper, what a piece of excellent craftmanship, fantastic.
 
Cheers Rob

Fantastic model. scale?

Holy Cow!!!!!!!!!!!!! NICE!!!!!!

What a great build, Ken.  I remember seeing that beast a couple times back in the day at local drag strips.   Not something I would want to drive but still... a showstopper.   I also saw his twin engine rail a few times. 

Fantastic job, Ken, and what a great subject.
I was lucky enough to see this beast run.  Tommy sold it to a guy (name long forgotten) who put a Buick station wagon body on and VIOLA! - instant funny car.  It was a crowd pleaser.  I have some 8mm film of it somewhere, now that you have reminded me.
Again, good job.
👍

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

hi Sam.......yes,  there is a slimming down towards the bow.  it's too bad that the bow section was already cemented in place...........I don't want to remove it for fear of damaging it,  and it would have looked nicer if the chain detail was addressed.  I thought about how to do it,  but I might just scratch it and leave it as is.......just touching it up in paint.   so........the base has been clear coated with lacquer....I gave it two coats.  I probably should have gone over it with steel wool,  but it wasn't too bad so I didn't.

I turned around and got another can of red primer to do the bottom paint.  it's not as perfect as I would have liked,  but it renewed the paint and got rid of all the scratches and chipping.

there is some degree of fading along the sides....not intentional and I left it 'cuz it adds to the aging aspect.   the next step was to mount it on the base.........that went well,  so you will likely see me do this again  

I still need to touch up the waterline and the upper section of the hull,  but these are minor and won't be hampered with it being mounted.  I put CA on the nuts inside so they won't back off as I work on it.  I did make a adjustments to the spreaders,  ending up with only using two.  the deck fits on there much better,  and that will be the next step.

Ca will be used here so they don't move.  this is where she sits now......it's a big relief that I was able to pull it off with the decks already on the model.  a couple of bollards have a 'horn' broken off {I noticed}....shouldn't be too big a deal to fix them.  more soon!

hello all........I made a bit more progress.  it would have been larger,  but I hit a snag and had to resolve it.  firstly.......I did finally stain the base,  right after augering out the holes to allow for washers.  I'm even going the next size up for the machine screws.  rather than cut the ones I have down,  I bought a bag of 2 inch long machine screws.  I got some stainless steel washers from work,  courtesy of a trailer I was working on.

done in a dark walnut.........

last week,  I found the time to give it two coats of clear lacquer.  I'll be sure to post a picture in the next session.   I did mess around with the hull earlier.......fitting the center section of the deck in place,  but not really concerned with the way it fit.  toying with it at this time,  I began to notice things..........the hull seems to be warped,  not allowing it to fall into place.  the bow and stern section have already been cemented into place when I got the model........it may be a contributing factor to the problem.  it may also be in how the hull is picked up too.........one hand holding it in the center of the hull {I'm guilty of it}.   I have heard how some folks are lucky enough to have bulkheads supplied in their kits,  for support of the hull...........I envy you.  so,  I will have to make up some spreaders for the center section of the hull.   I measured and cut some dowel to spread the hull.

they are not perfect........some fine tuning is still needed,  but they do help out.  I also trimmed the structure flanges at the front of the section.......the two structure 'ears' on both sides of the bottom level to get it to fit better.  as mentioned....it still needs some fine tuning  

I will have to mount the base before tis section can be cemented into place.  I began to try and touch up the bottom of the hull with the paint I zeroed in as the color used........just getting an air brush to work was a project.  as a last resort,  I brought out my gravity feed air brush and did a fairly reasonable job.  this was compounded by the fact that I didn't want to thin down the paint too much,  and likely cause the original color to 'wrinkle'.  in the end,  it was all in vain.......the color does not match.  today I went out and bought a can of red primer.........I'm just going to redo it.  the hull is all masked up and ready to dance,  so it's all ready to shoot.  I should have some more for you soon  

thought I'd put some movement on this log.......not huge,  but a humble step foreword.   earlier this summer,  I went to Home depot and picked out a suitable pair of finials........a pair of draw pulls {knobs}.  I was going to drill out the holes.......I need to drill all the way through them.  distracted,  I put them somewhere,  and when I decided to do them,  I couldn't find 'em!  I looked in all the probable places I could have put them with no luck.  I did another search recently with the same result.........can't blame the carpet monster for this one folks!     so I went out and bought two more........these seem better suited.  this is likely what prompted me to complete the task..........all in one fal swoop!  I also bought the machine screws for them......#8.......and #10 X 3" with nuts.....two sizes in case I needed to go larger.  I had to go slow with the drilling ......kinda tough to drill through.


with the plastic still on the wood base,  the center line was drawn,  and the holes were marked out.  the holes were drilled with the plastic still on the wood.

the plastic was removed........the exit holes on the underside was chamfered to allow the screw heads to sink into the wood.  I may need to change this up in case a washer is needed........I'll cross that bridge when I see how this goes.

so,  with the screws in place......as well as the finials,  this is what it looks like

the wood needs to be stained and sealed...........later.  with the hardware removed,  the base was placed on the hull and the holes were marked.   these were drilled out.

I found that 3"  is a little too long..........but there is sufficient room in the hull,  that they don't interfere  { I can always cut them down too}.    drum roll.................looks pretty darn good for a first time doing it  


usually,  I use the stands that come with the model.   this one is large enough to be an exception       now I can stain it!

thanks for look'in in gents.  I've made a little more progress and should have more for you soon   here it is..........August.  it's my birth month..........another year older    I have a doctor's appointment next week.  I wonder what the topics will be this time.
 
so far............no check engine light,  so I must have done something right.  inspection should be easy peasy  

hey there.  I know it's been a while, but life continues to get in the way.  I guess it's become my way of life    one thing I can tell you...........if someone asks you to replace a catalytic converter {bank 1} on a Nissan Murano, politely refuse and walk away!  preferably as fast as you can!    I replace the bank 1 cat on our Murano, and it was not fun.  I did hear that there is a product out there that will revitalize cats in the event your check engine light comes on but remember that it's only a quick fix and replacement is inevitable.  besides, I already bought one, a price tag of $500.00.............the cheapest one I found.  one can pay up to a grand!  I had a dealer check out the check engine light and give me an estimate on what they find.  for them to replace it is around #3,300.00.  another code they checked out was for the EVAP, and they found it was a leaking Purge Valve.  that had a price tag of $440.00 to replace.  I did it myself for less than a hundred bucks.
 
work continues on the model.  I added the light boxes and the license plate bracket.  I to modify the bracket because it didn't fit right. 
 
the tires and hub are assembled.

the wood inserts are completely done on both sides.

the scuff liners weren't cemented in place.  they were removed and grubbied up with paint to simulate scuffs.

cemented in place, they now look like this.

I was going to wait till I sprayed them with a flat lacquer, but I decided to partially assemble the box.


the glad hand detail has been removed from the front wall.

...........and then added to the box.


I figured it would be easier to detail the front wall with it in place.  I had to make minor adjustments to the side walls to get them to fit.  I was pretty much spot on with the tolerances.  the front wall looks worse than the picture.  it didn't fit as well. 

this will be covered up with the inner wall panels, so the gap will not be s.  there is the approach plate that will be cemented to the underside of the nose, and that will cover it from the bottom as well.  there is still much more to go.  hope you are all well  
 
 

sage advice Jack........I'll definitely keep that in mind {in the event that I lose mine  } 
 
some trailers do have them........most are older trailers though.   I've been seeing more companies leaning towards the container trailer.  the box is separate from the rail frame underneath.......mainly use in shipping to and from other countries by ship.  dry vans are good,  but they damage quite easily....means a lot of repairs.........a container is thick steel and hard to damage.  they are also stackable on the ship and at the yard.  since this trailer doesn't have one, it's a safe bet they weren't equipped with one.  as for the cargo........it probably wouldn't be hard to do.......haven't given it much thought.  I have the Budweiser wagon.......it has the cases of Bud,  but the decals are pretty bad.......after all, it is an old kit.  not only that,  they are stick ons .....YECH!!!!!!!
 
so I got a bit further with what I've done so far......the assembly should start picking up now.   the tandem dolly fits snug on the G rails,  as I mentioned earlier.  the G rails have holes for locking pins on the dolly to fit in,  so it won't move.  the dolly is moveable,  so the weight of the load can be adjusted,  to even out the weight across the axles {truck and trailer}.  on most trailers,  there are holes along the entire G rail.......on the model,  there is not.

seeing that I already have G rails in place,  it might be hard to drill them........but I do want to add the missing parts of the slider assembly.  usually there are four....two in the front and two in the back........but in this case,  since it's a short trailer,  I probably can get away with the two in the front.  I'll also need to add stop bars at the front and rear of the G rails.  more research needed....I'll see if I can find anything on this.

I made a goof already.........good thing it was an easy fix.  to keep the trailer in alignment,  you have the torque arms and radius rods.  they are attacked to the leaf saddles and the brackets on the axle tubes.  torque arms are always roadside,  and the radius rods curbside.  the old method for aligning a trailer {we have a portable alignment outfit}  is to align the rear axle and 'tram' the front axle to the rear.  adjustments are made at the torque arms.   to tram the front,  measure the distance from hub cap centers of the right side wheels and match them to the left side....adjusting the same way....at the torque arm.  my goof was that I didn't pay attention.....I just glues them in place.  thankfully,  they came off with little effort.  I cleaned up the mess and glued them on correctly.  I then turned to the interior.  the inner walls on these older trailer were mostly covered in plywood,  with scuff liners along the floor.  some have plastic dividers....some.....metal.........usually in 4' x 8' sheets.  now,  on 53 foot trailers,  there are thirteen a side {the last being a half sheet top and bottom}.  I' going to do this one another way, seen on newer trailers.  I bought some 1/16 x 1/16 evergreen strip for the dividers,  also simulated wall posts.  the riveted detail on the inner walls will be the guide to place them.  I cut a bunch of 3 1/2" strips,  and began gluing them on the inner wall.

I left room for the scuff liner at the bottom.......first one done.

once the other side was done,  I painted them with silver paint.  I'll let this dry over night


cutting the wood fillers is the next big task.  the front wall will also have a scuff liner and plywood.   the roof already has the roof bow detail molded onto it,  so I won't need to do anything with it.  hope to have more to show tomorrow
 

thanks for look'in in gents.  I've made a little more progress and should have more for you soon   here it is..........August.  it's my birth month..........another year older    I have a doctor's appointment next week.  I wonder what the topics will be this time.
 
so far............no check engine light,  so I must have done something right.  inspection should be easy peasy  

hey there.  I know it's been a while, but life continues to get in the way.  I guess it's become my way of life    one thing I can tell you...........if someone asks you to replace a catalytic converter {bank 1} on a Nissan Murano, politely refuse and walk away!  preferably as fast as you can!    I replace the bank 1 cat on our Murano, and it was not fun.  I did hear that there is a product out there that will revitalize cats in the event your check engine light comes on but remember that it's only a quick fix and replacement is inevitable.  besides, I already bought one, a price tag of $500.00.............the cheapest one I found.  one can pay up to a grand!  I had a dealer check out the check engine light and give me an estimate on what they find.  for them to replace it is around #3,300.00.  another code they checked out was for the EVAP, and they found it was a leaking Purge Valve.  that had a price tag of $440.00 to replace.  I did it myself for less than a hundred bucks.
 
work continues on the model.  I added the light boxes and the license plate bracket.  I to modify the bracket because it didn't fit right. 
 
the tires and hub are assembled.

the wood inserts are completely done on both sides.

the scuff liners weren't cemented in place.  they were removed and grubbied up with paint to simulate scuffs.

cemented in place, they now look like this.

I was going to wait till I sprayed them with a flat lacquer, but I decided to partially assemble the box.


the glad hand detail has been removed from the front wall.

...........and then added to the box.


I figured it would be easier to detail the front wall with it in place.  I had to make minor adjustments to the side walls to get them to fit.  I was pretty much spot on with the tolerances.  the front wall looks worse than the picture.  it didn't fit as well. 

this will be covered up with the inner wall panels, so the gap will not be s.  there is the approach plate that will be cemented to the underside of the nose, and that will cover it from the bottom as well.  there is still much more to go.  hope you are all well  
 
 

see........I wasn't gone too long    although I have a couple more steps to do with sizing down the pictures.  I'll get used to it    I added the outer tires to the wheel assemblies.  the hub part needs a bit more paint. the hubs on this trailer are oil hubs. they require 5W90 oil. we used to have quite a few, but most, if not all the trailer that have them, have been taken off the road.  we switched over to bearing grease {I forget what type it is}, which is really runny stuff. the caps are threaded and screw on, rather than the bolt on hub caps for grease.  the caps are mostly clear........our Stemco hub caps were metal with a see-through face.  a red rubber plug in the center is the fill port.  

I wondered how I was going to emulate that, since they are kinda shiny, if not dirty.   I got an idea to use the Testor's window maker........I painted it on them, and it looks the part.  add the red plug and they are ready to add to the wheel assemblies.

the tandem dolly and the landing legs got a coat of paint.  I added the cross bar to the landing legs.

another area that I want to expand on is the service plate.  the service plate is the plate on the front of the trailer that has the glad hands and light receptacle.  on this type of trailer, it is built into the front outer wall.  I need to remove the detail and find something that will bring out the parts better.  I'm sure I have something. 

each side of the trailer interior, is made up of 19 spaces between the wall posts.  I still have that Mahogany stripping that I have been trying to find a use for.  I think I found it here.  I cut up a bunch of pieces, 3 1/2 inches long.  one bad thing is that the spaces are different widths........tooling isn't that exact.  not that I thought it would    each space was measured, and the strip was cut to fit.  one side down...........and one to go  

the scuff liner is the guide.  hopefully, I have it figured out so that the floor will fit.  so far, everything is just set in place.

I may have to trim where the door hinges are, but that can be done later.  more soon!
 

I've seen some trailers in HO scale.........pre assembled,  but I'm sure there are kits out there.  with a little weathering,  one could add a touch of realism  .
 
today is out 35th wedding anniversary.........I had to work,  and we had the younger son and his girlfriend over to do their laundry.  they normally eat with us,  so I grilled up some burgers.  not much of a celebration,  but we'll make up for it later.  these past two days at work,  I have been on the trailer side by myself.  my co worker called out,  right along with our only tech 3.......since covid,  we have dwindled down to a skeleton crew.  so it was just Brian and I...and our manager John.
 
it's distraction night....I'd better get moving  the kit does have some problems......what kit doesn't?!  there is a lack of location pins and tabs throughout the kit, so care must be taken to get the important parts straight.  some parts are misshaped,  which requires extra fitting before it sees any glue.  the joints for the sides and the bottom need to be trimmed to fit.  these pictures probably aren't that good,  but as it is,  the holes and guides for the tandem rails can hardly be seen.

two guides are on the last cross member

the front two guides can be see on the cross member before the one with the two holes.  I used a ruler to insure that they were straight.  another thing that I totally got rid of,  was the chrome.  no shiny bobbles here    I de-chromed the whole thing and will rely on metallic paints.  I started to assemble the wheels after the rim parts were out of the 'soak'.

the landing legs had a lot of mold lines and mis-shapened parts...still in the process of being refined.


the tandem was assembled and fed onto the rails to see how it would track.  it is supposed to be movable,  but there is no real reason why it must be {as a model}.  it is tight enough to stay where you put it,  but there is no adjustment mechanism to show it locked into position.  I may add it.........I'll get into this more when we speak again

she coming along really good Chris.........you've got such a knack for these models!  

following along as well.....very nice start