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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Thanks for the nice comments. The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages. I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out. Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups. My advice, don’t go too cheap. A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.
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Thanks for the comment Eric. My cannons are a two step process. First airbrushing with Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black (I love the stuff, a rich matte black), airbrushing both the carriages and the guns produces a much more even finish, especially on the barrels. Then a four different brush application of Doc OBrien’s Rusty Brown weathering powder (which I also more lightly apply to the cap squares to bring it all together. Don't know why but the combination turns the cannons into a nice gun metal gray, credit goes to Chuck for the Rusty Brown, not an obvious choice. Enjoying your work on Cheerful as well.
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Quarterdeck Cannon No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post. The carriages were freed of char and air brushed. One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part. The production line is ready. The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. On to Chapter 11.
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I’ve never seen a Nikon lens with f/40, interesting. I too rejected ring lights in my photography due to limited use and high price. This seems like a nice price effective choice. Thanks for sharing.
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Mostly due to the size and available (or I should allowable based on my wife’s review) display space I’m really trying to convince myself Speedwell is not my next project. With each new innovation that gets harder and harder to do…..I mean, to scale door handles and books on a table in the cabin, wow.
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Not all of us have high praise, I think they’re a junk company that proudly lists kits based on stolen IP from China. As Chuck notes The Modeler’s Saw Mill is an excellent US source for wood. I recommend you replace what you have with Alaskan Yellow Cedar (much less than boxwood and easier to work with, though boxwood is amazing). See my Cheerful or Winchelsea build log for more photos on how it looks planked on a hull. Then toss that junk away after sending MS a demand for refund (which you likely won’t get, but you’ll feel better) and post a nice Google Review.
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Day and night opinions (which is what they are) on this topic, and likely a hundred or so different posts on the topic as a search would show. I ALWAYS use CA for hull planking. Over a dozen models now, some 20+ years old and never had and still don't have any issue with the quality of my planking or its durability. Higher quality CA like Bob Smith Industries, (they aren't all the same) does not have excessive fumes or strong smell. In fact Bob Smith Industries has a version of CA that is odorless entirely. Bottom line is use what works for you, as it seems everyone replying to this post has. It annoys me when instead of telling you their preference and reasons for it they denigrate someone else's. Why not just share why your method works for you. CA works great, it's the right choice for me. I guess other glues must too, but I've never seen reason to try them.
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I think you’ll find lots of us didn’t drill the interior ones. Easy to mess up and gouge the deck, they are largely hidden by the cannon anyway. The eyebolts get easier, tiresome but easier as you lock onto a process that works for you. 12 cannon, 7 eyebolts and two rings each plus 4 more and two rings for the bulwark per cannon, you lave a lot more in your future. If you’re using Alaska Yellow Cedar you’ll find you can push the bolts into the wood. Mike’s is all boxwood.
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My Chapter 10 posts were too long, I won’t take the time to do that much again. The quarterdeck is pretty much the last “big” thing to do, starting with planking and ending with rails. It’s been such a journey from the first framing, through months of planking and the many detailed components assemblies since. Not sure I want it to end. To keep it short, here are just four final photos of the quarterdeck.
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