glbarlow

I did a little side project, putting together the winch sub-assembly from Chuck’s https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com site. This is one of several I have as part of my Cheerful semi-scratch build. This model with the plans, starter kit, monograph, and these sub-assemblies, make entry into scratch building so much easier an experience.

The winch comes in a little baggy of finely lasered parts, mine is in boxwood. I printed the simple to follow instructions from the website and commenced to sand and file away.

The instructions say to bevel the many panels (5 barrels and obviously 8 to each barrel) so that only a brown edge is showing. Not surprisingly my last one was better than the first. The big key is when the instructions say only a little edge is showing, it means a very little tiny barely visible bit of brown edge. This one still needed more filing.

With everything assembled, it’s time to paint using the Golden Cadium Red I’ve selected for the model. This is in a bottle not a tube, but I still mixed it at about 3 parts paint to one part water. This gives it an almost ‘red water’ consistency. I found three coats were enough to make me happy. I painted a scrap piece and after three it started looking a little too thick.
 
I use Admiralty Paint Ironwood Black for the components that are, well, wood meant to look like iron, (so that’s how they got the name…) on a real winch. This is great paint, it took only one coat, any more and it will look more like paint and less like metal. As a side note, more of this paint is one of the items in my lost order from the UK.

I’m a big fan of 400 grit sandpaper, I use it to soften everything to make it feel “warmer” and “worn.” With 400 grit as opposed to even 320 there is no danger of losing shape or too much material.  I also did a little shaping at the top, not too much, its a winch…
 
Because I’m using very thin paint I did have to remove all the laser char otherwise it would show through. That was a bit challenging with the end pieces. So here I'm clearly not done.
My hemostats come in handy to hold things while I’m painting, easy here since I could use a 1/16th stick to hold them.

The final dry-fit. It’s really not this shiny, just the bright light and my iPhone thinking too much.
 
The final step is glue it all together, snip off the rod running through it and add the red caps to the ends. I’m not going to do that until I’m ready to mount it on the ship - a long long time from now - just in case any adjustments are needed on the fit to the deck. So off it all goes to join the rudder and sternpost on a cabinet shelf I keep free of everything but a soft cloth bottom and future parts of my current model. I’m sure a few cannon will find their way to that shelf before they’re ready to mount. I like little projects like this to break up the build process.
 
So now back to the hull.

But no different than plans, they buy a superb model like Byrnes, then first reverse engineer it, then make it with cheaper parts and without R&D cost. Their primary fighter jet is a knockoff of a Russian one, they know no bounds. 

Let’s not buy these. No different than buying ZHL models, it’s IP theft. Jim Byrnes shouldn’t lose money to Chinese knockoffs 

Let’s not buy these. No different than buying ZHL models, it’s IP theft. Jim Byrnes shouldn’t lose money to Chinese knockoffs 

So there will be no Flirt build logs, James has set the bar too high 😂✅🤣

Be sure to put some cannon on those fishing vessels.

You'll want to close that gap at the bottom before adding a plank. I cut the shape of the bow from a scrap piece of wood using the plans as a template. I can put the soaked wood on it and clamp the heck out of it so its a tight fit. If you keep going from here make sure to get clamps down at the bottom to get it tight on the frame.
 
The first rule of modeling is when you think you have enough clamps, go buy more clamps.
 
You're having fun now....

Superphatic is actuallg marketed as CA glue alternative
I ve used the Cornwall model aliphatic glue extensively, it is very nice but just an alipharic PVA, nothing more. I now use Titebond that seems to have a bit faster opening time.

Hi Glenn
 
I'd draw a distinction between aliphatic resin (also known as carpenter's glue and yellow glue) and the rapid aliphatic glues like Super 'Phatic. I use the former just like PVA -  it is supposed to be stronger and sandable, but as far as I'm concerned it's virtually the same deal. I described the brand I use here in my Speedy log, but many manufacturers make their own versions, including well-known brands like Titebond.
 
However this 'ordinary' aliphatic resin is very different to the rapid glue that your namesake from Scarborough, UK put me on to. Super 'Phatic (which I got here) really is different to PVA. It looks different, being much thinner and more penetrating, and grabs almost as fast as CA, especially if you hold it under pressure for a few moments. As you know from my Speedy log, I found it very useful for laying deck planks where after a few seconds it was stuck enough to lay flat against the sheer and solid enough to trim. 
 
I've only used that one brand, so I don't know how it compares with the one you ordered from Cornwall. If yours is as good, then I'm sure you'll find it provides a useful tool for those situations where CA is too fast and PVA too slow. I'll be interested to hear how you get on.
 
Derek

The failure was with a cheaper version of aliphatic glue, not CA or PVA.  I've used the same top brand of CA for my models for years, I've never ever had a failure. Some of my models are 20 years old at this point. I'm very comfortable with CA. 
 
I use only CA for planking, no reason or desire to change there. I know there are many that use PVA for hull planking, I'm not one of them. I was thinking about the aliphatic more for the deck and deck furniture since it dries clear and doesn't seem to stain.
 
There is a difference between white PVA and Tite Bond, and even Tite Bond has three different formulas one of which I think is phatic I believe.  I'm looking for those that experience with AliPhatic and its best use (if there is one)

I've read a number of builders, particularly our English friends, using Aliphatic Glue. I thought I'd give it a try and just received some from my favorite English Model Shop, Cornwall Model Boats.
 
Any experience or observations on using Aliphatic glue vs. CA and Tite Bond beyond the obvious point about set up times?  I've always and will continue to use CA for planking, I'm comfortable with that just as I use Tite Bond for gluing bulkheads and frames. I'm wondering where, or if, Aliphatic Rapid Glue can improve my modeling perhaps for deck furniture or even deck planking? Does it hold up, is there some subtle advantage to it vs. others?
 
I tried another cheaper version of this type of glue for cleats on bulwarks only to find it didn't hold up to the tension of a rigging line.  
 
Just looking for thoughts, observations, and experience of my fellow MSWers...

Now use the airbrush to paint your mill and the mill to carve your initials in the airbrush 🤣😂

Ground Tackle
 
Still waiting for paint to arrive so I've had a go at the anchors. The cast metal parts are OK - the pattern and proportions look correct, and it only needed a small amount of fettling to get rid of any casting marks. However I felt the anchor stocks were slightly under-sized, and they only tapered in one dimension rather than two. So, out with some spare pear wood left over from another build. I decided to follow full-scale practice and construct each stock in two halves, which resulted in eight pieces, each 60 X 5 X 2.5 mm for the four anchors. I used the trusty Proxxon mill to taper the pieces to the correct angle:

 
The front face and the bottom of the stock had to be cut at slightly different angles. In each case I prepared a piece of wood to support the stock at the required angle:
 

Once the mill was set at the correct depth for the first angle all pieces were milled without further adjustment. Then the setup was changed for the second angle and the process repeated.
Making the stock in two halves ensured it was easy to mill a square hole for the shank:
 

I used a dull point pressed in the stock to simulate bolts then used shrink wrap tube for the iron bands:

Trying the anchor for size:
 

Quite happy with that. 
 
The good news is, some paint was delivered while I was working on the anchors this morning so I should be able to get on with airbrushing. Yippeee!
 
Derek
 

It’s starting to look like a ship. Every single plank takes time.

The good news is the time on the fairing was well spent. I’ve only lightly sanded so far, I’m going to wait until everything above the wales is complete for doing any serious sanding.
 
It’s going to take a really long time to finish above the wales. Not only maintaining the 1/64th rabbit on the sides of the ports, but also cutting the proper angles of each plank between the ports. Slow and careful.
 
Having finished the run below the ports on both sides I decided to give myself a little reward for the day by planking up the sheer at the stern. Right now there are two 1/16th strips in that run flush with the other planks. Later I’ll cut a fashion strip above both those, no idea how but I’ll figure it out then I guess.
 
So back to cutting properly angled lengths of planks in very precise lengths, 64 of them to be exact, well 60 more since I did that stern second to day.  I won’t complain about kit gunport patterns ever again.
 
I'm hoping this is how its supposed to look...

Completing the square tuck is the final step of building the ships skeleton. I was glad to learn the plan template as I cut it out from a sheet of 1/32 cedar fit with just a few adjustments. So far everything is standing up to being where it;s supposed to be.

The next step is planking the wales by first marking where then go. I started with the reference lines and then smoothed out the curve until it looked right.  I found that if something looked wavy I could just remove the nail at that point having placed ones to either side of it. Definitely don’t want a nail in every frame to allow it to flow. I took my time until I felt good about it then did the other side.
 
I love it when a plan comes together. Having done all that, I thought lets just check the distance between each port and the wales agains the plans. I used my millimeter ruler and I wasn’t just close, I was right on the distance - on both sides.  How the hell did that happen.  I have to attribute it to the design, I don’t think I’m near that good.

After painting the gun ports I started on the wales. I’ve never done a single planked ship before, really hoping I can get the planking tight enough so it doesn’t look like a sieve. I sort of wish the wood was long enough to have a single run for this lower layer of the wales, but I might as well get used to running short planks. I’ll be doing a lot of that from here on in. It took several hours to get one side done.
 
The small 1/16rh piece marks the lower edge of the ports and the distance to plank between that and the wales. I came pretty close to the goal of leaving a 1/64th rabbit above the piece - I never really thought about how small 1/64th is.  I used a piece of my batten, coincidently 1/64th thick as a bit of a tool to measure.
 
I’ve lightly sanded the stem and keel. I’ll put on another coat of wipe on poly later, no need at this point. I'm starting to think of posting smaller photos, these high quality large photos show too much 😕
 
Almost every step something I haven’t done before, it’s an adventure. Hoping it looks like it’s suppose to look…

Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it. This model is a challenge for me, but it's a joy to watch as it comes together.
 

Yes, the building board is included. I think you would love building this boat, Glenn, it's an outstanding kit.

It’s starting to look like a ship. Every single plank takes time.

The good news is the time on the fairing was well spent. I’ve only lightly sanded so far, I’m going to wait until everything above the wales is complete for doing any serious sanding.
 
It’s going to take a really long time to finish above the wales. Not only maintaining the 1/64th rabbit on the sides of the ports, but also cutting the proper angles of each plank between the ports. Slow and careful.
 
Having finished the run below the ports on both sides I decided to give myself a little reward for the day by planking up the sheer at the stern. Right now there are two 1/16th strips in that run flush with the other planks. Later I’ll cut a fashion strip above both those, no idea how but I’ll figure it out then I guess.
 
So back to cutting properly angled lengths of planks in very precise lengths, 64 of them to be exact, well 60 more since I did that stern second to day.  I won’t complain about kit gunport patterns ever again.
 
I'm hoping this is how its supposed to look...

It’s starting to look like a ship. Every single plank takes time.

The good news is the time on the fairing was well spent. I’ve only lightly sanded so far, I’m going to wait until everything above the wales is complete for doing any serious sanding.
 
It’s going to take a really long time to finish above the wales. Not only maintaining the 1/64th rabbit on the sides of the ports, but also cutting the proper angles of each plank between the ports. Slow and careful.
 
Having finished the run below the ports on both sides I decided to give myself a little reward for the day by planking up the sheer at the stern. Right now there are two 1/16th strips in that run flush with the other planks. Later I’ll cut a fashion strip above both those, no idea how but I’ll figure it out then I guess.
 
So back to cutting properly angled lengths of planks in very precise lengths, 64 of them to be exact, well 60 more since I did that stern second to day.  I won’t complain about kit gunport patterns ever again.
 
I'm hoping this is how its supposed to look...

Looking great it is really starting to come together

I agree...really nice progress.  Everything is looking ship shape!!!

It’s starting to look like a ship. Every single plank takes time.

The good news is the time on the fairing was well spent. I’ve only lightly sanded so far, I’m going to wait until everything above the wales is complete for doing any serious sanding.
 
It’s going to take a really long time to finish above the wales. Not only maintaining the 1/64th rabbit on the sides of the ports, but also cutting the proper angles of each plank between the ports. Slow and careful.
 
Having finished the run below the ports on both sides I decided to give myself a little reward for the day by planking up the sheer at the stern. Right now there are two 1/16th strips in that run flush with the other planks. Later I’ll cut a fashion strip above both those, no idea how but I’ll figure it out then I guess.
 
So back to cutting properly angled lengths of planks in very precise lengths, 64 of them to be exact, well 60 more since I did that stern second to day.  I won’t complain about kit gunport patterns ever again.
 
I'm hoping this is how its supposed to look...

Very neat work!

Nice work !
Do not rush, take your time and carefully execute each step are really the golden rules and we can see the results here. Superb!

I finished added the decorations


Then I started working on the cannonball holders and the cannonballs.

Unfortunately the cannonballs are steel so I tried to spray paint them instead of chemically blackening them. The spray seemed to work well but now that I'm gluing the shot into the holders I'm having a fit of a time. Glue is everywhere, mainly in places that I didn't intend and I'm scrapping off some of the paint; thankfully I'm doing this off model and I'll try to touch them up and we'll see what happens. This step is certainly full of frustration at the moment (and I'm pretty certain that I've lost at least a few cannonballs so most likely I'll have to find some replacements 🙁). I'll definitely be glad to be through with it).