glbarlow

Well done Glenn!

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

The port side is now complete.

 
Cutting and measuring these 64 planks (more like 84 including the ones I rejected after cutting them the wrong length or angle) was an exercise in patience and perseverance, but I like how it all turned out. I will make a few adjustments to the sheer once I start the cap rail step and a few minor modifications to some sills after I thin the inner bulwarks, for now though I’m content to move to the next step.
 

 
Which is thinning these outer stern frames. I’m not excited about this step, not that confident with a Dremel, small drum or not. While I can paint a 1/64th rabbet with a 18/0 brush without concern I’m hoping not to gouge one of the inner stern frames in the thinning process. I’m going to have to think about this a bit. I may first try a jeweler’s saw. I do have one unbroken frame on the first now crushed hull so I get one practice run. If anyone has any suggestions or advice on doing this other than don't screw it up, I'd be happy to hear it.
 
I noticed the photos of the SB and port side appear to be a different color - that's purely the affect of my iPhone. They are exactly the same in reality. At some point I need to get my camera gear out and do it justice.
 
I can’t do anything for a few hours while the poly dries - so I’ll just sit and stare at it for now.
 


Oh, I can never have enough ways to sand things. This latest acquisition from here at Amazon are thanks to a recommendation from BobG. Good stuff. 
 

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

Thanks Chuck.  Yes the perfectionist in me overcomes my lack of patience.  I don’t mind how long it took.  I think I developed a system on the third to last port 🤣
 
Thanks for the advice on the stern frames. I’m going the #11 blade and a jewelers saw, I’m sure the Dremel would get away from me. 1/16th is really skinny. Thank goodness for sanding sticks. 

The port side is now complete.

 
Cutting and measuring these 64 planks (more like 84 including the ones I rejected after cutting them the wrong length or angle) was an exercise in patience and perseverance, but I like how it all turned out. I will make a few adjustments to the sheer once I start the cap rail step and a few minor modifications to some sills after I thin the inner bulwarks, for now though I’m content to move to the next step.
 

 
Which is thinning these outer stern frames. I’m not excited about this step, not that confident with a Dremel, small drum or not. While I can paint a 1/64th rabbet with a 18/0 brush without concern I’m hoping not to gouge one of the inner stern frames in the thinning process. I’m going to have to think about this a bit. I may first try a jeweler’s saw. I do have one unbroken frame on the first now crushed hull so I get one practice run. If anyone has any suggestions or advice on doing this other than don't screw it up, I'd be happy to hear it.
 
I noticed the photos of the SB and port side appear to be a different color - that's purely the affect of my iPhone. They are exactly the same in reality. At some point I need to get my camera gear out and do it justice.
 
I can’t do anything for a few hours while the poly dries - so I’ll just sit and stare at it for now.
 


Oh, I can never have enough ways to sand things. This latest acquisition from here at Amazon are thanks to a recommendation from BobG. Good stuff. 
 

Thanks Chuck. It was interesting using the powders for the first time and they did seem to work out pretty well.
 
 
Thank you Dave.
 
I like it.  The pictures really show the dust but here is the attached transom area
 

 
 
 

It was just a carving out of the trim pieces very carefully to keep it tight and then I did sand very slightly the bottom edge of that plank so it would lay flatter. Also (probably going to make Chuck’s head explode) I very very very carefully heated the peace and the resin soften just a little bit and it was able to become flexible enough to glue closely.  And by very carefully I mean probably less than one second total time. Also did the same with the rear mermaids and they seemed to come out fine

I'm looking forward to this next step, it will be fun to see it completed.

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

Great kit, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Just to weigh in: easier to thin the first planking for most of it and make final adjustments to stern post with 2nd planking. As James says, just common sense as easy to visualize with the stern post just held up to the stern. 

Not sure what later is either - I'd put them in sooner by my work process.  Most deck furniture runs down the center, to me, other than hatches, its easier to put the cannons in and then the deck furniture - but either way they should go in before you start on the masts  The hull should be completely finished before masting and rigging begins.
 
It also might depend on how far you plan to go with the rigging of the cannons. Fully rigged could wait until balance of deck work is done, only the breaching rope can be done at any point t once the deck and hatches are in.
 
I've built Granado, part of the Badger family. Caldercraft, because they were designed by @Chris Watten , used to be my favorite brand along with Amati, many also Chris Watten designs.  Now Chris has his own company, Vanguard Models. Speedy and Alert are already out and more are coming. I'd highly recommend you go there for your next model. His designs, materials (all pear wood) and instructions are second to none.

Great kit, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

The port side is now complete.

 
Cutting and measuring these 64 planks (more like 84 including the ones I rejected after cutting them the wrong length or angle) was an exercise in patience and perseverance, but I like how it all turned out. I will make a few adjustments to the sheer once I start the cap rail step and a few minor modifications to some sills after I thin the inner bulwarks, for now though I’m content to move to the next step.
 

 
Which is thinning these outer stern frames. I’m not excited about this step, not that confident with a Dremel, small drum or not. While I can paint a 1/64th rabbet with a 18/0 brush without concern I’m hoping not to gouge one of the inner stern frames in the thinning process. I’m going to have to think about this a bit. I may first try a jeweler’s saw. I do have one unbroken frame on the first now crushed hull so I get one practice run. If anyone has any suggestions or advice on doing this other than don't screw it up, I'd be happy to hear it.
 
I noticed the photos of the SB and port side appear to be a different color - that's purely the affect of my iPhone. They are exactly the same in reality. At some point I need to get my camera gear out and do it justice.
 
I can’t do anything for a few hours while the poly dries - so I’ll just sit and stare at it for now.
 


Oh, I can never have enough ways to sand things. This latest acquisition from here at Amazon are thanks to a recommendation from BobG. Good stuff. 
 

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

perfect!!!   Once the stern is framed up and especially the lower counter planked it will be nice and solid.

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes.
 

 
I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task.
 

 
I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me.
 
I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work.
 
With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside.
 
Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack.
 
I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty.
 
Next planking the stern.

Well, I’m getting close to finishing the first, and my first ever, first planking. 
I so far have gotten away with one stealer per side, which seems about right. 
I should have this part done tomorrow evening. 
 
I’ll admit I’m mighty slow, but I’m sorta just feeling my way along here....
i see a possible trouble spot or two that seems a touch low, but we’ll see.
I haven’t had to redo anything of importance so far, have only lost a tablespoon or two of blood, and haven’t warped it like pretzel.
YET.

Now interesting stuff starts to happen, or interesting for me anyway.

Failing to find an outsourcer, (I didn’t really look, I instead did my isometric exercises Sand On, Sand Off) I spent a couple of days sanding to get to this point. I concluded it was time to stop and get the ports in before I sanded away the bulkhead extensions.

Lining up the ports is so much more easy thanks to the reference lines Chuck provides on the starter kit bulkheads. I’m not sure I’d started this project if I had to cut them out myself, where’s the fun. I was prepared to make micro adjustments by measuring and doing the look test but frankly it was near spot on just with tacking the batton to the reference lines, though I still measured and looked to be sure.

I later met with near disaster when I started the starboard side. The hard part of this task is getting the pushpins to stay in the bulkhead extension, I pushed a little hard and snap.:-/ I pinned it back with an inserted brass rod and splinted it up. It’s not so pretty now, but it will be covered up soon enough. I should know how to avoid this mistake, stupid pushpin, and I was even pre-drilling the holes…Oh well, I’ll be sure to check the fairing closely, though I tried to account for that as I repaired it.
 
Modelers don’t panic, we adapt, overcome, and improvise - Clint Eastwood  in Heartbreak Ridge would approve.

I started doing testing what color red I am going to use. I’ve always used Admiralty Paints but their only red - Ensign Red - just wasn’t red enough and Cheerful has to be red, right.  To be clear, I really like red with this ship. I settled on Golden Cadium. Go Red or Go Home. I’ve since tested it on a piece of Yellow Cedar thinned down and multiple coats (7 so far), I like the look of it.

As I installed the lower port sill I made sure they were level with the hull, my many variations of little levels make this easy. I was working from outside in so I could have room for the clamps. There is a little fun beveling to get the outer ones to fit the shape of the hull, just a little bit.

I went ahead and thinned down the bow port filler to about 1/8 with my Dremel after reading ahead in Chuck’s practicum, then cut the port. One of my many uses of left over MDF from past kits is in this case making port sizers. So yay, the chase port is a square smooth 17/32 like it’s suppose to be. I’m still having trouble adapting to imperial measurements, this is my first time not using metric. I’ll say it again, metric just makes so much more sense to me. Why is the US still stuck…he said rhetorically.

Here is where I as a kit builder knew I wasn’t in Kansas anymore. The sides of the gun ports call for multiple, seven to be precise, different sizes to match up to the plan location and size for the ports between the bulkheads. This I where kits wouldn’t go, they’d be limited to a few sizes of stock wood, and of course gun port patterns. It took me a second to wrap my head around the fact I was no longer limited by what stock wood is included in a typical kit.
 
I purchased the wood package from Chuck, this lovely bundle of Alaskan Yellow Cedar billets comes in multiple sizes, six of the seven needed were in the package. I used my Byrnes saw to rip ¼ inch widths of 1/32, 1/16. 3/32, 5/16, 1/8, 5/16 (all in the package). For the last one I just took one a piece of the 5/16 square piece I’d already ripped for the port sill and cut it to the called for 3/16. See how I did all that imperial thing there…
 
I will say once again the best tool I ever bought for model building is my Byrnes saw. Now, with a little help from Chuck, Rusty, and Jim Byrnes, that I know how to properly rip a plank with the proper blade, I’m cutting and ripping whatever I need with joy in my heart and fingers still attached to my hands. If you don’t own a Byrnes saw, buy one. You’ll never regret it. (Though I learned he’s on Covid hold until the end of June for new orders waiting for his supplier to deliver 120v engines, he still has 220v).

I made a longer gunport checker for the gun ports, which I will also use to make sure they are lined up with the other side. I also use it to double check the two side pieces will create the called for 7/32 opening. That whole measure twice cut once thing. I also determined I didn’t need the pieces quite this tall…


So here she is with the port side ported and faired. The batten lays smoothly top to bottom. Now that I’ve splinted my broken bulkhead extension work can begin on the starboard side. Comments and feedback welcome.
 
It will be a day or two before I can get back at it again, I still have to process my granddaughter’s 7th birthday portraits as part of my other photography hobby. On a side note, if you ever want to make a 7 year old's day, prevented from having a normal birthday party by Covid and 2020 catch phrases like lock down and social distancing, hold a car parade. Her parents arranged to have her friends and family do a slow drive-by their house honking horns, holding signs, and making noise. She got to see friends she hasn't seen since schools were closed in early March, her teacher participated as well. I have an English friend who shared the Facebook video with the very true statement "if this doesn't cheer you up, nothing will." She was sooo happy. And as a result, so was I.

It’s fun to glue the stem and keel onto a bearing strip that is half its width while keep it it all centered well bound. I used my Admiralty White PVA glue here just to be sure I had enough time to make the alignments. I'm going to the yellow TiteBond glue for the frames so they can take the beating of fairing. 

First rule of modeling, when you think you have enough clamps, go buy more clamps. I’ve had these, and more of them, for a long time. The rubber bands though are new, the idea borrowed from another MSW builder. They are much more handy than I would have guessed in adding support.
 
I have all the MDF waste from prior models, the Vanguard was a good source of quality waste. I have and use all sorts of sizes I cut for various jigs. In this case they came in handy by ensuring the keel was glued exactly center down the frame by placing then clamping them along the sides - the various MDF sizes are just what I had laying around. The rubber bands give me more room to use clamps both for the centering and the holding down.

Was it too early to glue on the stern post and rudder, seems like it’s too soon 😄 Just kidding, both the sternpost and rudder are already put away for much later. It was nice to see how well designed the ship is, and a little positive affirmation that I got it on right - such a nice fit and look. I lightly sanded the keel and stem and made sure the bearding line was clear of glue.

I now have the mounting holes 1 inch into the frame past the keel. An important step to make sure some future day the model doesn’t snap off at the keel when pushed or pulled by a small grandchild. Now I can put the screws away forget about this for about a year…

The 2nd coat of WOP (the color is more even than it appears in this photo) and the frame is now ready to install bulkheads. I’m sure there is a very good reason for the out of sequence numbers aft and letters forward of those bulkheads. Doesn’t matter I just follow the plan and the clear direction to ensure the reference lines face the correct way.
 
It’s my understanding  it doesn’t matter which way the + bulkhead faces?  
I hope that’s true because I started with it and right now the glue is drying… I will install bulkheads 1 to 2 at a time triple checking each is square…and facing the right direction. So I’ll be back later with more excessive detail.
 
Thanks for the comments, likes, and follows. It’s always nice to know someone is watching. I did my last build log (and it will be my last build log there) on that other site, it was like writing a letter to myself, in an empty room, where even the crickets were quiet.