Charter33

Good morning to everyone, work continues with the production of the last pieces of this model, namely the railings. These are the toughest balustrades I made to a model, but I hope to finish the work successfully. It will be followed by the painting of the assembled screws.
All the best .

Adrian

Well, I have finally completed the first of the the 21 square body frames. A temporary cross-spall was placed (tack glued) across the frame pair at the height of the top timber. It is cut to the width necessary to set the frame vertical. I used the cross-spall to level the frame across the ship by measuring at both ends vertical from the build board. A rubber band is all that was needed to hold everything in place after gluing.


Mike

I managed to complete the forecastle deck hook and the breast hook over the last few of days. Both of these required a lot of fiddling in order to get them to fit properly. The angle of their inside edges changes constantly due to the changing angle of the hawse pieces.
 
Bolt holes were drilled through the hooks with a #75 drill. 24 gauge copper wire was used for the bolts. The position of each hook was set prior to gluing and clamping with copper wire. The wire being inserted into three of the holes that were extended about 1/32" into the hawse pieces. After the glue was dry, copper wire was snipped to a pointed shape and pushed firmly into the holes with a needle nose plier. The wire was snipped off leaving about 1/64" showing. Using a wide flat-tip nail set, the remaining wire was pushed (not hammered) into the hole until flush. I was wondering if this method would aid in holding the hooks in place, so I made test piece without using glue. I found that I could not pull it apart easily. I would recommend using this method as it is easier to do and avoids using glue which can be messy. Thanks for the tip, druxey! Liver of Sulphur was diluted 10:1 and applied to the copper wire for blackening.


Mike

Victory is finally finished and resting in her display case. I do still have a little tidying up to do, but don’t tell anyone, they’ll never notice. A couple of photos follow.
 
 

Hi,
The Furniture scratch repair pens arrived .... three different browns euphemistically labeled mahogany, oak and cherry.

The first was as dark as the marker pen I used previously on the aft deadwood, the other two, shown above, were very similar to each other but do not match the woods they are named after, to be honest. The cherry, on the left, was the best of the bunch and it was this that I used on the second attempt at the deadwood and various scarf joints.

It would be wrong of me to criticize these pens without actually trying them for their advertised purpose, but with a working knowledge of furniture restoration and various finishing technique including French polishing there are other processes I'd use to repair scratches first.  The effect of this pen was generally okay although it does have a tendency to bleed,  especially on end grain.
 
Then I came across Dan Vad's advice to Jeff (Zarcon) on his HMS Victory build log about using Pigma Brush pens and archival ink.  More than twice the price of the set of three, but so much better - and worth every penny! I'll be using this for the rest of the build.

I have now completed cutting out all the components for the keel etc.







My next task is to add the rebates and additional tapering to the fore and aft deadwoods, referring to the first plan sheet and the other build logs in this forum - I love a challenge!  Once this has been done, and the parts have been assembled, I hope to be in a position to access the full set of sheets.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi,
 
The first step is often the hardest ….
 
I hope to undertake this challenge of building my first POF ship in order to develop my practical skills and learn new techniques - as well as ending up with a (hopefully) impressive final model.  I’ve been preparing for a month or so – downloading the plans for the keel, getting them printed and sourcing the wood.
My choice of timber is cherry for the keel and frames, maple for the false keel and other components further down the line and I also have some black walnut in store.
The timber as purchased:
 

 
A strip of each cut off, split and planed down to 8 mm.
 

 
Ready to start ….
 

 
The first component I decided to make was the aft deadwood.
Patterns cut out and glued onto the cherry with ‘Spray Mount’. I’ve found that this holds the paper in place well enough without leaving any residue on the surface once removed. A couple of times the paper lifted while a piece was being worked but this was spotted and dealt with before errors occurred.
 

 
After initial cutting out with a band saw edges were refined with a combination of a band facer and drum sander.
 


 
I have read about, and liked, the technique of enhancing wood joints with permanent marker pens and decided to experiment with black and brown pens on some off-cuts. To say the difference is subtle would be a wild exaggeration!  Blowed if I could tell the difference….
 

 
The pieces were glued together, cleaned up and the ‘steps’ marked prior to the waste wood being removed with chisels.
 


 
My first attempt. I’m leaving the final shaping to the sides until much more of the keel has been completed in order to try and get my head around how much wood needs to be removed.
 


 
I have also been working on making a building board.
 


Before I work on progressing further could someone confirm whether or not this project has been opened to new members again, please? I’m a bit confused by the message saying that it is on the ‘Forum’ front page and the one at the top of the ‘Cross section’ thread saying it’s temporarily closed.
 
In no way is the fact that this project has no big glossy box to smuggle through the back door while the Admiral isn’t looking, thus avoiding the inevitable questions of ‘how much?’ or ‘and where is it going to go when it’s finished’ has absolutely no bearing on my decision to get actively involved ….. honest…
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi and a big welcome - it's great to see another 'complete' model of Triton get under way.
That's a really impressive set up you have there in your workshop. Is that a Caldercraft HMS Victory I see resting on that shelf in the background?
I look forward to following your progress.
 
Good luck,
 
Graham

A truly stunning build, Don. Craftsmanship of the highest order and impressive attention to detail - congratulations on your inspirational work.
I really like your choice of colours for the hull - are they based on a particular full size example?
 
Graham.

A truly stunning build, Don. Craftsmanship of the highest order and impressive attention to detail - congratulations on your inspirational work.
I really like your choice of colours for the hull - are they based on a particular full size example?
 
Graham.

A truly stunning build, Don. Craftsmanship of the highest order and impressive attention to detail - congratulations on your inspirational work.
I really like your choice of colours for the hull - are they based on a particular full size example?
 
Graham.

Thank You all so much, this is just overwhelming!! I apologise for taking so long to reply but I took Frank's(riverboat) advice and "hit the liqueur cabinet" in a little celebration.
 Elijah I don't really care for cases on my models, I know it is wrong but usually once or twice a year I'll take them and give them a good cleaning, It only takes 30 minutes and gives me more "bonding time" with the model. lol
Hubac, the decking material I used is cherry
Popeye the next main project is the Stefano and also the Pegasus in my spare time
Graham, the colours are just something I thought up, it really should have a black hull with red and white trim. I just couldn't bear the thought of painting all that nice wood!
Mike, you know the feeling of "completed" and yes it is great!!
 Again "Thanks" to all for the outstanding comments and for all the likes, this is exactly what makes this site the best
 

A truly stunning build, Don. Craftsmanship of the highest order and impressive attention to detail - congratulations on your inspirational work.
I really like your choice of colours for the hull - are they based on a particular full size example?
 
Graham.

A truly stunning build, Don. Craftsmanship of the highest order and impressive attention to detail - congratulations on your inspirational work.
I really like your choice of colours for the hull - are they based on a particular full size example?
 
Graham.

Some other pictures of lower masts (woolding hoops and wooldings, iron hoops).

Hi Graham. Thanks for commenting. They were both of 'my era'. RN personel had a soft spot for the 'Shack' , they used to drop mail to us.
Here HMS Daring recieved her drop, somewhere in the Indian Ocean
jim

The day has finally arrived, my Trabakul is complete!! Thanks to all for following along, for all the likes and the great comments it was all very much appreciated. I would also like to thank Zoran at MarisStella for all his support and help and of course for producing this fantastic kit. Although, not an easy build, I would recommend this kit not only for the challenges you will face but also for the high quality of material and contents. So anyway here she is:
  That's it and I really hope everyone enjoyed and I hope to see you over at my Stefano build
 
Have A Good Weekend and do think of those we have lost at war as tomorrow is "Remembrance Day" in Canada 

Denis,
 
Yes it’s a good technique. It also adds temporary tension to a line with just the pin holding in place allowing for later re-adjusting the lines as needed.
 
Then cutting the extra and adding the coiled rope covers seems to work very well.
 
=======================
 
Also for making coiled ropes:
 
Using painter’s trim tape coil the rope.
Add a film of CA Gel
This will “lock” the spooled coil. And the gel will not bleed through to what will serve as the topside of the coil.
 
I then used small beads of Gorilla wood glue to secure the coil in place on the deck.
 
Had I thought of this much earlier I would have tried to coil all of the canon ropes. Though those ropes are super small almost like thick thread. Hmmm
 
 

 
Almost fished with this section - Last night started the three foremast sails- now that's a mess to figure out.
 
PS: Peter, I'm so happy that you know very little about Viking ships - what a personal relief (:-)))
 
Don Thanks !
 

 
 

One off, one on. HMS Centaur and Destroyer HMS Carisfort. Sea Vixen off Gannet on. Painted for a guy who served in both ships.
jim

3D model of botik (boat) St.Nicolas ( boat of Tsar Peter 1st) are finished. Accurate reconstruction from dimensional drawings and photos of real botik from Maritime Museum in St. Petersburg. Drawings are ready.

Beautifully crisp and accurate craftsmanship as always, Robert. A genuine source of inspiration! Keep up the good work - a pleasure to follow the progress you are making.
Graham

Richardjjs
Thank you for your comments and thank you for your information, but to be honest I cannot understand what you mean when you are referring to the deck planking and say ‘BUT it should be joggled 4 apart NOT 2’.  The planks on my model are laid in a four butt system, the end edge of each neighbouring plank is offset by 1/5 of twice the length of the planks. Four planks separate the plank ends where they meet edge to edge.  Isn't that what you mean by ' 4 not 2'. Am I missing something?
 
Also you stated ‘Again if you are going to mark the tree nails at least make sure each plank end is accompanied with the corresponding  treenails next to each other’.  What is the difference from what I did on my model to what you are saying?  Again, am I missing something?
 
Richardjjs, I would appreciate if you clarify this for me, or maybe another member of the forum who has more knowledge and know how than me on this subject enlighten me if the four butt system is the correct one for the HMS Victory, and if so,  are my deck planks laid in the correct way?
 
This is an image of the HMS Victory deck planking.  On my model I only marked the treenails on the edge of each plank as I thought that if I mark the once in between as well it was going to be too much.

Rich (Archicar), I hope you don’t mind, I borrowed this image from your great set of photos you took and placed in your log. If you do mind I will remove it.   They are great pictures and found them very helpful. Thanks.
 
Robert

Hi and a big welcome!
 
I was not familiar with your choice for a first build so I've just looked it up on Google. I'm sure you will find that it will be a rewarding and satisfying project, especially with your previous modelling experience. I was in a similar position to you and convinced myself that I'd taken on a project far beyond my abilities. I then learned two essential lessons: firstly you never know what you can achieve unless you have a go, and secondly that this site is in a class of it's own when it comes to the support and guidance available. Best advice is to start your own build log - and if a challenge arises just ask. There are so many talented builders here keen to help others succeed.
 
Good luck!
 
Graham.

FWIW, to show what can be done on the cheap, here is my first rope machine along with some product.
 


 
The upgraded version:

 
 
 

Thank's for starting this thread, Derek, and for re-posting the link to your own design, Steve. I was contemplating having a go at making a rope walk and this has given me the final nudge to get started. I recently put together my own serving machine based on modified Lego gears as little diversion from copper cladding the hull of my Victory build. There's a real sense of achievement when it all comes together and works ......
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Superb work Jim. I love the detail and the 'atmosphere' you instill in your work. I particularly appreciate your depiction of Bucklers Hard - one of my most favorite places in the New Forest.
Thank's for sharing them.
 
Graham.