Charter33

Hi Mates,


 
Well this update, for me is actually mostly satisfying.


 
Built two more platforms, and caps

Installed all of the topmasts

Started some ratlines

Made another mouse for the mainmast stay.

Served the mainmast stay, and the block rope on the foremast

Re-worked a Corel triple, and double block

Many new blocks tweaked and attached.

Attached the double pulley at the base of the foremast for the mainmast stay, and attached the triple block.


 
===================


 
A few Grrrrrrs, of course, main topmast sheave cutout should have been angled inward, lack of foresight.


 
Main cap doesn’t quite “sit” right

Mizenmast cap is too close to its platform

Mouse should be, as you know, a woven affair.


 
What I made is obviously incorrect. I saw how to do it correctly on another’s build log. Hmm my skill set not there.


 
Always nice of you to drop by, and thanks for the encouraging notes – much appreciated.

Cheers,


 

 

 

 

 

Hi,
 
I've been using this on the bowls and platters that I turn on a lathe for many years. Wire wool is not essential, any rusty iron will do. I personally use white vinegar. Like Captainbob explained, wiping the surface of the wood with tea (soggy teabags work too!) will make the end result darker as does applying several coats of the iron/ vinegar mix.  I find this process most effective when used on oak because of it's natural tannin content. I believe that the 'ebonising' effect is due to the chemical reaction between the tannin and the acid in the vinegar. Once dry any wood finish can be applied. I like this technique because of the penetration that can be achieved compared with paints etc. that just sit on the surface.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Coppering process.

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed.   I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows  - quite simply inspirational.
 
Thank you.
 
Graham

You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed.   I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows  - quite simply inspirational.
 
Thank you.
 
Graham

You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed.   I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows  - quite simply inspirational.
 
Thank you.
 
Graham

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

Hi,
 
Tackling the wales proved to be fairly straight forward.
 
After taking measurements from the plan and transferring them onto the hull, a strip of wood was pinned on these marks and, after a little ‘fine adjustment’, the curved lines were marked on.
 

 
The majority of the prepared pieces fitted straight on and CA glue was used for bonding.  At the bow and stern some additional shaping was required together with gentle bending with plank ‘nippers’.
These photographs show the work in progress and the final results.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Drifting randomly through the wide ranging posts on this site the other evening I came across many superb examples of the model makers art that reminded me of a time, back in the mid-1960s, when the ‘Birthday treat’ of choice was a trip across London to visit the Cutty Sark followed by the model ship galleries at the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich.  It was these amazing models, mostly ‘plank on frame’, that sparked a lifetime’s interest.  Sadly these wonderfully detailed models are no longer on display although they can be examined to some extent on-line.
 
 
Why am I rambling on about this?  Well – one of the sections I was exploring that started this reminiscing was the HMS Triton project.  WOW!  My head is telling me to keep focused, the ‘Victory’ journey has a long way still to go, my heart is saying – what a challenge! The build logs, both completed models and works in progress, are very impressive.  It costs nothing to start planning… the keel plans are easily down loaded,…. and there just happens to be a very helpful and friendly print shop less than a mile away ……mmmm
 
Meanwhile, it time to start lining the gun ports.

Hi Folks,
 
I’ve finally finished planking the inner bulwarks and added the additional details I alluded to in my last post.
 

 

 
The waterways were made from 2 x 2  mm stock walnut strip with the top corner sanded to a radius, on top of that a strip of 3 x 1mm was used for the stringer , and the beam shelf was made from 2 x 2mm stock sanded down to 2 x 1mm. All three strips were pre-painted prior to fitting and the whole lot given a second coat of yellow ochre once the glue had dried. I also did a little shaping of the deck supports with a ½” drum sander in Dremel drill before painting them white.
 
The next challenge, and one I’ve been looking forward to, is tackling the wales. The first job was to see if the jigs I made to shape the various plank profiles would work. One length of walnut strip cuts into eleven blanks.
 

 
These were stacked together and sandwiched between the sides of the jig and clamped with a hand vice. The first step was to sand one edge flat and smooth. The blanks were the flipped over and sanded to length.
 
The hand vice was then mounted in a bench vice and a chisel was used to shave the blanks down to the final profile with a final sanding to complete the process.
 

 

 
The three profiles, anchor stock, top and butt and simple scarf fit together well on a flat surface.
 

 

 

 

 
 
I just hope they will do the same when fitted to the curved surface of the hull – time will tell!

Hi folks,
 
I set myself two short term goals a couple of weeks ago;  to get this build log up to date by editing and uploading previous material, and to finish planking the upper gun deck including tree nailing.  It was a close thing but both of these objectives were achieved. 
 

 

 
The planking and tree nails have now been refined to a smooth finish with a scraper and given the first of several coats of mat varnish.
 
These photographs show the second planking of the hull.  
 

 

 

 
Unfortunately I omitted to photograph this work as it progressed.  I decided to go the route of using short planks (127mm / 5”) as opposed to longer lengths and found this easier, gluing them in place (CA glue) and shaping the profile of any planks as required. Any minor gaps and imperfections were dealt with using a little wood filler. The hull has now been sanded to a good finish although I am expecting to have to give it a final going over once it’s been primed with grey primer once the wales have been completed.
 
 
There’s plenty to do in between adding coats of varnish on the deck. Cannon barrels and carriages need assembling, plus preparing the various different styles of plank for each of the wales ( jigs made but not yet tested). This will keep me busy until the final coat of deck varnish has dried.
 
 
Not until this is done can I tackle the problem of the miss-aligned inner gun port patterns. Note to self – read the excellent build logs produced by others more carefully!  When I fitted the inner patterns they were carefully aligned horizontally. The patterns slipped so nicely into the spaces in the bulkheads, with the top edge level with the outer pattern that I assumed all was well ……WRONG!  
 

 
 
As these photos show, the inner patterns need to be dropped by almost 3mm before they can be lined. My plan is to cut out the excess from the bottom edge and then graft a new piece into the top. This will be easier than pulling the whole pattern out and re-fitting it, and the final planking will hide the evidence!
 
Cheers for now,
 
Graham.

Hi Folks,
 
To continue the story with the miss-aligned inner gun ports …….
 
The first step was to work out how much needed to be removed from each port. To do this a length of square bar was threaded through a pair of gun ports.
 

 
The gap between the bottom of the bar and the bottom of the outer gun port was then measured. It ranged from 0.5mm to 3mm, averaging around 2mm for the majority.
 

 
This measurement was then marked onto the pattern and the ply sliced with a scalpel.
 

 
A ‘sabre’ saw with a reverse toothed blade (cutting on the pull stroke) was used to cut the ends.
 

 
The final step was to cut and glue a strip of scrap ply into place. Not pretty, but job done and work can now progress with the lining.
 

 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 

Hi,
 
A quick up-date.
 
Having completed the planking and varnishing of the upper gun deck the mast coats have been made, shaped and added to deck. Sounds easy but those rings are so fragile and great care was needed, especially when adjusting the internal hole on the main mast coat to allow for the angle.
 

 
Lining the ‘gun ports without lids’ was fairly straight forward. To cut the lining back level with the hull I used the saber saw, the Kugihiki flush saw I used for the entry ports being; a bit too big to get into some of the more awkward internal areas, and it’s currently locked up in a secure cabinet at school awaiting my return to work, hopefully in a couple of months’ time. The saber saw blade needed to have the kerf removed from either side to prevent damaging the areas surrounding the cut, and this was quickly achieved with an oil stone.
 

 
Supporting the back edge of each lining element was essential to prevent splitting or tearing the wood. I achieved this with a length of ply inserted and wedged inside the gun port for the top piece, and double wedges inserted to tackle the sides. I’m a bit of a hoarder fortunately. These MDF wedges were originally used to build ‘washout’ into the wings of an electric powered glider and came close to being binned!
 

 
Masking tape around the external side of the gun ports had two purposes – firstly to further protect the surfaces from damage from the saw, and secondly to ensure the edges were sawn just proud of the hull allowing these edges to be finished flush with glass paper.
 

 
After a light sanding of the inside surfaces a coat of red ocher has been applied and the next task is to plank the inside bulwark patterns. Here I hope to attempt to emulate the additional details of beam shelves, stringers and waterways as shown on ‘Maestro’ Gil Middleton’s superb build log. I’ll need to stock up on some additional walnut strip but an excuse to get out of the house and drive over to the model shop in Windsor is always welcome!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Hi Folks,
 
The last of the three ’Victory material’ challenges is the construction of three ‘pedestals’ on which the finished model will be mounted. Final completion of the model is still a considerable way off – but retirement is probably going to strike before this and it makes sense to tackle the task while access to the workshop equipment is still possible. (well, that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it…)
 
There are a number of unknown factors that could affect this mini project: Will it be possible to turn the metal in the first place? – I’ve come across some metals in the past that have a skin so hard it knackers the cutting tool in seconds, and what kind of finish will it be possible to achieve? Only one way to find out.
 

 
The rod as supplied…..pretty uninspiring, about four inches long and a little less than an inch in diameter.
First job is to face off the ends of the bar.
 

 
…..then skim the bar to remove the corrosion. First question answered – oh yes, it will machine. It cuts in a similar way to mild steel and is relatively soft ….
 

 


The finished billet is then cut into three blanks…
 

 
I’ve made the decision to turn the base of each column down and thread them M10 x 1.5 initially to enable each piece to be mounted on a mandrel for further machining, meaning I won’t have to hold the blank directly in the lathe’s chuck, and eventually to fix the pedestals to the wooden base.
 

 
Mounted between the mandrel and a revolving centre, each blank is machined to profile with a round nosed tool. The final finish is achieved using emery cloth followed by 600 grade ‘wet and dry’, and finally the same grade of abrasive paper lubricated with a light oil.
 


 Just like turning legs for Windsor chairs, the first one is quite straight forward – its’ getting the others to match that provides the challenge!
 

 
Last task is machining the slot for the keel to fit into, using a universal milling machine fitted with a 4mm slotting bit. The final slot was 6mm wide. The pedestals have been previously been drilled on the lathe to take the 1/8th” silver steel rods that will extend up into the tubes set into the hull structure (see my first ‘post’).
 


Done and dusted….
 

 
Cheers for now,
 
 
Graham 

You take model ship building to a whole new level Ed.   I am totally in awe of the skills and detail your work shows  - quite simply inspirational.
 
Thank you.
 
Graham

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 200 – Lower Masts Continued
 
It is hard to believe we are at the 200th post on Young America – almost 3 ½ years into the project.  Still as exciting as ever – for me at least.
 
Since beginning work on the lower masts, most of the reporting has been on the fore mast – the guinea pig for construction, finishing and rigging – and only one version in the scrap box.  However, though mostly unseen, work has been proceeding on the other two, so here are a few pics.  The first is the most recent, taken yesterday and showing the main mast ready for fitting the deadeyes and rigging the futtock shrouds. 
 

 
The mizzen mast to the left is almost to the same state, but needs its masthead detailing.  The next picture shows the main top before fitting the deadeyes.
 

 
At 18' 6" in breadth, this is somewhat larger than the 17' fore top.  The "pre-rigging on this top includes a pair of brace blocks for the mizzen lower yard, the crojack.  These may be seen dangling from shackles below the aft crosstree.  Because of the soldered shackles, any shackled connections, including eyebolts, need to be either fitted with their blocks or left off until later.
 
The next picture shows the forward chafing batten being glued to the mizzen mast.
 

 
The batten is concave on the mast face and was rounded on the forward face after gluing.  The top, with the 9" diameter spanker mast inserted, is to the lower left.  The below-deck rings have been blackened and the ring of wedges is in place.  After this step the above deck ironwork was buffed with a clean wheel and blackened as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The sanding stick in the picture was used to clean the glue off the batten's nail heads (not shown).  The next picture shows the mizzen at this stage.
 

 
The top and the spanker mast are permanently attached in this picture.  The picture also shows small brail blocks hanging from the mast.  These will be discussed later.
 
By this time, the foremast was complete and could, if desired, be permanently installed.  The last picture its base with a mast coat fitted over the wedges.
 

 
The mast coat simulates a tarred canvas cover with surrounding rope to pull it tight at the mast and at the base.  It would also have been nailed before tarring.   I could find no standard method for these – only brief and varied descriptions.
 
Ed

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

Hi,
 
The lining of the gun ports was one task where it really paid to do some homework and invest time reviewing the excellent build logs available through this site.  I would never have thought of adding balsa strips behind the edges of the ports to increase the gluing area.

I went for 2 x 2 mm strips and produced this simple aid to help get them in position.


 


 
It’s based on Gil’s example (thank you!) but rather than using a spirit level to ensure that horizontal pieces were correctly positioned I added a simple ‘clinometer’.  With the hull leveled, when the plumb line matched the vertical line on the plastic disc the strips were correctly aligned.
 

 
 

 
This device was flipped 180 degrees to deal with the strips at the top of each port. Made from whatever I could find in the workshop it’s a bit ‘Heath Robinson’ but it does the job.

The lower and middle rows of gun ports were now straight forward to line with pre-painted strips. The gap between the ‘holding pins’ and the wooden strip was just right to enable this tool to be used grip and tweek the angle of the horizontal strips of walnut to their final position.


 

 
A second simple and very effective tool I made was this one:


 

 
 
Its purpose is to help manouvre  the cut strips onto place and ensure that the front edge of the lining is set back the required 1 mm. Basically a 5” length of 4 mm dia. brass tube, flattened both ends. For the depth gauge a scrap of wood was glued the appropriate distance back from the end, and the 90 degree return at the other end was useful for pulling strips that were too far in back into place.


 

 
Balsa strips in  place.
 
The ports on the upper gun deck were the most challenging. For the side pieces I resorted to making individual templates to the correct size and then using these to mark out the required shape onto the wood.


 

 
Starboard side is now complete ….. 
 

 
........ but I think a bit of tidying up of the workbench would be a good idea before tackling the other side!….


 


 
Cheers for now,


 
Graham.

Because Anja has an update yesterday I will also update mine......
 
I finished the running rigging.
Still one drawing to go .
Then the anchors and lights and of course the netting .
But it goes fast enough....
The ship is to big to get it in one shot so a few.....
 
Sjors
 

Well,  few days back on the build has been a good one.
 
The Fore mast, not been that bad, still tweaking things.so this is not the final.. I have left the boarding pikes of till painting is finished.
 
 

Got a little more work done in the shipyard today.  Finished up the grate for the after hatch and the stair ladder for the forward hatch.  I installed the hatch coamings and the grate and the stair ladder.  I still need to apply some wipe on poly finish.  Next up is the top sail bitt.  I also need to make some rope and rig up the guns.  Enjoy the pics and any and all comments/critiques are welcome.

Thx Sjors,
And as promissed an update. All (boom)yards are in there place now, so I started with the last piece of rigging. This will take a few month, I guess....
 
Some pictures...........

Hello and welcome to my log of the HMS Victory by Panart this is not a rolling log as I built the ship before discovering MSW this was my first model ship I completed it in around eleven months ,knowing what I know now about ship building I would have spent more time and added much more detail however I am happy with the results and would like to share the images with you all as from time to time in my other logs you may hear me refear to the victory thankyou for viewing and please enjoy the following
 
steve